3D printed fun

[Chris Livengood]

The first time I tried PETG with my Ender 3 V2 the PTFE tube melted down and I ended up making a huge pile of spaghetti. It got nasty. I'm having better luck these days now that I have Micro Swiss hot end. The Ender is still a piece of junk though, and I didn't even pay for mine. I got it basically for free by trading old PC parts (thanks Covid). Someday I'll buy a Prusa or something.

I like that socket knob. I am going to make a few of those.

[Mike B]

I like that socket knob. I am going to make a few of those.

Here is the .stl file: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5198521 I can send a .step file if you want to change it or do a 3/8" drive.

[RSS]

I found a guy off of a Facebook group post residing in Poland that has made these models himself. I reached out to him to see if he would share or sell the STL files in order to be able to print them myself, but he prefers to just make the models for people and ship them out (unfortunately). I asked him if he'd ever reconsider to let me know, but it doesn't seem like it will happen. I'm a far way off in my Fusion 360 skills to be able to model this kind of stuff.

How big is your printer? I would say I am about 60% done so a little while still but I have started test printing to test print orientations and fitment.

Hope you like Mygale's

[924RACR]

I like that socket knob. I am going to make a few of those.

Those are handy; I actually have one with a ratchet built in (not 3D printed obviously) that is a regular production item... looks like Gearwrench sells 'em at Home Depot among others...

[Chris Livengood]

Have you guys seen this OpenRC F1 project? I've seen a few people that built the cars and while they are low performing, it is kind of a neat project.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1193309

I'll check out the gear wrenches as Home Depot. I was actually laying in bed envisioning printing a ratcheting version, but buying them is a lot easier.

[ajpastore]

Over the years I've made parts for my FV, camera holders, custom brake bias knobs etc. but I've also modeled much of my car chassis and parts for other reasons. I've always wanted to print them scaled for fun. Though I've had access to good printers through work, I never wanted to use them for personal use. But the pandemic required me to keep one at home recently so I've purchased some resin for myself to make some neat prints when time allows. It's an SLA resin printer and details are quite good so scaled models come out great.
The grey parts in the images are from the SLA and the black, larger scale stuff in the background is from my personal FDM. Obviously the FDM isn't as good as the resolution as the SLA.
I didn't model the engine and tranny, I found those on Grabcad, (wrong but close) and colored with Sharpies. The other parts are all from my vee. Bodywork will come someday...but that's almost as hard to model as making it in real life!
Also, I did have time over the holiday, to start another years long desire to make a FV slot car. I have a new appreciation for the finer points of making car and other models. Finding the features that define what a car looks like, but work when scaled down and make it usable and manufacturable, are a challenge. The slot car isn't done either, but moves on it's own power. Need to work on tires Like real life, tires are difficult too.

Andy

[Keith Carter]

How big is your printer? I would say I am about 60% done so a little while still but I have started test printing to test print orientations and fitment.

Hope you like Mygale's

That's awesome! Nice work, Roger! I picked up an Ender 3 Pro and a LD-002H for $100 each in November. The Ender has a 235x235mm bed and the 002H is 140x85mm.

[RSS]

That's awesome! Nice work, Roger! I picked up an Ender 3 Pro and a LD-002H for $100 each in November. The Ender has a 235x235mm bed and the 002H is 140x85mm.

Okay I will make sure that I split the model up to be printable on an Ender 3 size plate. So far the front half is looking good. Have you tried printing any flexibles yet?



Model just needs Rear Suspension, Exhaust and Air Intake then final adjustments for printability.

[Keith Carter]

Okay I will make sure that I split the model up to be printable on an Ender 3 size plate. So far the front half is looking good. Have you tried printing any flexibles yet?

Wow, that's looking great! Did you do any post process work to clean things up, or was it just a revision of your settings to get things that clean?

No other filaments besides PLA+ for me. Haven't even tried PTEG. I'd need to mod the printer a bit to print the gummy stuff reliably. Would be great for tires!

[RSS]

Wow, that's looking great! Did you do any post process work to clean things up, or was it just a revision of your settings to get things that clean?

No other filaments besides PLA+ for me. Haven't even tried PTEG. I'd need to mod the printer a bit to print the gummy stuff reliably. Would be great for tires!

No post processing yet I will probably clean it all up and paint it up to match mine and the old mans cars.

I have been playing with settings and tolerances to make sure it is printable on all of my machines and I can interchange parts and they all still fit. Currently everything is modular and should friction fit into place but I have added holes for M3 heat inserts that can be used to screw everything together. Rims thread into the rotor and the tires are friction fit as seen below everything else can be screwed together. I have been printing on 2 Ender 3 V2s and my Voron 2.4 the tires are flexible PLA at the moment but I am printing the final ones with TPU on my direct driver ender 3V2.



The plan in the end is to have all the print instructions (supports, line heights, orientation etc) all available when I am done. Also since I am making it modular you will be able to modify the model to whatever configuration you would like. Your choice of tire brand, Front wing type, Diffuser, Rims, High or low nose etc.

Current Option Plan

Diffusers
- Stock
- Van Diemen
- Radon

Front Wings
- Radon
- Stock Mygale Mustache
- USF2000 Spec wing (2004 model)

Tires
- Avon
- Hoosier
- American Racer
- Custom if someone wants something

Rims
- Jongbloed (2 versions)
- OZ

Noses w/shock covers
- PR1 High Nose
- Long Low Nose
- Stock Low nose

Air Intake
- Zetec
- Pinto


When I get done with the Mygale I will probably move on to the 98-current Van Diemen if I can get some people to help me with measurements.

[Keith Carter]

When I get done with the Mygale I will probably move on to the 98-current Van Diemen if I can get some people to help me with measurements.

I have something you should be able to work with. Let me know when you're ready.

[RSS]

I think I figured out how to print the last couple suspension parts. So I think the base model is complete and ready for some testing if anyone wants to volunteer?

IMG_20220204_1631087.jpg
IMG_20220204_1631175.jpgIMG_20220204_1631000.jpg

[Keith Carter]

I think I figured out how to print the last couple suspension parts. So I think the base model is complete and ready for some testing if anyone wants to volunteer?

Sweeet!! Are the floor tiles that it's on a cubic foot each? What's the overall length of the car once assembled? I can test, but I'd like to see if I can scale it down.

[RSS]

Sweeet!! Are the floor tiles that it's on a cubic foot each? What's the overall length of the car once assembled? I can test, but I'd like to see if I can scale it down.

Yes the car is about 20" long with the wings. It is 12.5% of full scale for the car any smaller and the suspension parts become to difficult to print. I have already had to thicken up the endplates and such as they where getting really thin at that scale.

[swiftdrivr]

Are the rims printed? they look metalic in the photo

[RSS]

Are the rims printed? they look metalic in the photo

Yes they are a metallic silk pla same with the exhaust and air intake stack.

[swiftdrivr]

They look great!

[PK]

Have you guys seen this OpenRC F1 project? I've seen a few people that built the cars and while they are low performing, it is kind of a neat project.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1193309

I'll check out the gear wrenches as Home Depot. I was actually laying in bed envisioning printing a ratcheting version, but buying them is a lot easier.

My son printed that F1 car and got it running with pretty low end (brushed) RC motor and controller. It's actually kinda fun to drive, but it doesn't tolerate any significant bumps or running into anything. We've broken at least front wings and rear axles. At least replacement parts are cheap!

[RSS]

IMG_20220207_1631194.jpg
IMG_20220207_1631360.jpg
IMG_20220207_1631533.jpg

[swiftdrivr]

Nice work! It looks great

[Keith Carter]

What did you end up using for filament? From what I'm reading, to do TPU I would need to change the extruder (direct drive) and the hot end and possibly the bed to get it to print right. Not sure I'm there yet!

[RSS]

What did you end up using for filament? From what I'm reading, to do TPU I would need to change the extruder (direct drive) and the hot end and possibly the bed to get it to print right. Not sure I'm there yet!

For the tires I actually went back to the Flexible PLA as it had more of a matte finish. The TPU tires came out to glossy.

You should be able to print the flexible PLA or Soft PLA on the standard bowden setup of an ender 3 just print a bit slower and lower retractions so it doesn't get backed up. It will stick to most build plates.

https://www.amazon.com/ATARAXIA-ART-...30&sr=8-3&th=1

[david oleary]

For the tires I actually went back to the Flexible PLA as it had more of a matte finish. The TPU tires came out to glossy.

You should be able to print the flexible PLA or Soft PLA on the standard bowden setup of an ender 3 just print a bit slower and lower retractions so it doesn't get backed up. It will stick to most build plates.

https://www.amazon.com/ATARAXIA-ART-...30&sr=8-3&th=1

HELLO I am a MYGALE OWNER and looking for someone to help me make my MYGALE 1/16 scale models into P2 models. i will need 6R&L FRONT and REAR fenders total 24 pieces is that something you could make????? in MYGALE BLUE

[Chris Livengood]

Dave, I sent you a reply, or at least I think I did. If you didn't get my message reach out to me again.



I finally got PETG to work. The parts are really solid, usable actually. Really nice! I am not even close to RSS quality prints. Damn that is nice.

[RSS]

HELLO I am a MYGALE OWNER and looking for someone to help me make my MYGALE 1/16 scale models into P2 models. i will need 6R&L FRONT and REAR fenders total 24 pieces is that something you could make????? in MYGALE BLUE

Hey David it's been a while you still have the F1000/P2? I could probably help you out with the printing/drawing.
The real question is what is Mygale Blue? Are you thinking the PR1 blue that our cars are? or maybe the Darker blue of the original 99 Mygales?

Roger

[Tommy B]

that is nice

[problemchild]

Hey David it's been a while you still have the F1000/P2? I could probably help you out with the printing/drawing.
The real question is what is Mygale Blue? Are you thinking the PR1 blue that our cars are? or maybe the Darker blue of the original 99 Mygales?

Roger

One would assume French racing blue (Blue de France).

[david oleary]

Hey David it's been a while you still have the F1000/P2? I could probably help you out with the printing/drawing.
The real question is what is Mygale Blue? Are you thinking the PR1 blue that our cars are? or maybe the Darker blue of the original 99 Mygales?

Roger

HI Roger Yes I still have the 2004 MYGALE, I raced it 12 races in 2017 and then both FB and P2 at Indy runoffs, since then I did 1 race in 2018 & 2019 then I retired from work and had some health issues so now it is in FA trim for 2022. The blue is
like a medium blue not sure if it is France Blue but not a dark blue. I can send you pictures if you email me speedmandave@outlook.com. the Blue that was on the NTT INDY car that Chip used is very close, I want to give models to my crew guys in both FA and P2, so I have 6 cars I need to convert. I can paint parts to match the models. ROGER, It may be the PR1? Any idea where I can get a engine cover??

[david oleary]

Dave, I sent you a reply, or at least I think I did. If you didn't get my message reach out to me again.



I finally got PETG to work. The parts are really solid, usable actually. Really nice! I am not even close to RSS quality prints. Damn that is nice.

HI CHRIS Sorry I did not get your message, it you send me a email I can send you pictures on what I am trying to do, I have 6 models I want to convert to P2 for my grew guys from a INDY car models. speedmandave@outlook.com Thank You
Dave

[Mike B]

My Aim expansion hub will be stashed in a tote for now so I wanted to protect the connectors from damaged or dirt. And it was an excuse to use the printer.

[Keith Carter]

Here's a neat idea that seems to work really well. I haven't tried it yet, but seeing Mike's post with his part on the background of carbon fiber reminded me. All you need to do is use the textured carbon fiber vinyl on the bed in order to give your prints a carbon fiber look (on one side anyway).

[Rick Kirchner]

I've been replacing seals in my calipers and there's the usual problem of getting both pistons out. One usually comes out easily, and then there's trying to get enough pressure behind the other to pop it out without launching it across the shop, getting your fingers in the way, or other nonsense.

So I made this little number. Had trouble getting it to seal at first until i learned to leave the old seal in place. Right now it's 3 pieces, but I think with some judicious dimensioning I could make it work as just two. The O-ring is the biggest one out of a HF kit.

First thing I do is use the two flat pieces to clamp one of the pistons in place, and then use compressed air to pop the other out. Then you insert the side with the o-ring in the vacant cylinder and tighten it down, and then pop the other side out.

[Rick Kirchner]

My beacon reminder de-laminated, so I made this one that slips over the edge of the MoHo's dash.

I also made these toolbox labels. there are two small magnets on the backside. I use S3D's "stop printing at". and "start printing at" options under the advanced tab to separate the colors. There's also a way to do it with scripts, but if you are working with an easily defined dimension it's easier to do the stop/start, as sometimes the printer gets lost after you change colors.

[Rick Kirchner]

this 1/2 of a tripod housing to help visualize what's going on with my axles.

[Rick Kirchner]

Wing snubber made from TPE. It's not perfect, but far better than the usual plastic or aluminum parts and doesn't eat thru the wing skin. traced the profiles on paper, scanned it in, loaded the image into F360 as a canvas, and then fit spline curves to the tracing.


Some more TPE parts - replaced the bumpers on my trailer. The original neoprene ones were just falling apart.



A hanger for my hoist

[Rick Kirchner]

I hate this ZAMP POS helmet. What made me hate it was this shield breaking, and then the post snapping off when I tried to change it, along with the lack of customer service, but I digress.

So I had this shield rattling around in my helmet bag, and I thought I could fix it with 3DP.

On one side there's a .6mm thick ABS washer and a little larger one on the top. Glued on with airplane glue. Seems to be working. The ABS is quite a bit more flexible than the polycarbonate of the shield.

I suppose I ought to print a few more for the helmet bag just in case I need them again in the future.

[Rick Kirchner]

Snap-on cover to make drive axle service a little less messy

[Chris Livengood]

The best part about packing tripods is how absolutely miserable it is. You are missing out.

[Rick Kirchner]

The best part about packing tripods is how absolutely miserable it is. You are missing out.

I use the Mobil 1 grease. It makes my skin so soft! Thinking about a re-package to sell it at Sephora.

[Rick Iverson]

I use the Mobil 1 grease. It makes my skin so soft! Thinking about a re-package to sell it at Sephora.

OK, that made me laugh