3D printed fun

[Rick Kirchner]

If you've followed some of my posts here and on FB you may have noticed that for something like three seasons I've had cooling issues - which I shouldn't. I did a big radiator upgrade in 08 and it cooled so good I usually needed to half-tape one of the radiator ducts even when it was over 90 outside. The switch to the aluminum head didn't change that much.

Well when I was back in NC I had the car apart, was dismayed at some dings in the radiators. I had some aluminum honeycomb screens in the sidepod intakes, but they were a bitch to fit (odd shape and all) and in general, a pain. So I bought Nomex honeycomb from Speedway and put a chunk of it in front of each Rad.

The cells were really small (1/8") and thus the void percentage was likely under 70%.... I didn't correlate this with my cooling issues until now. I have a pic of the stuff but for some reason I can't get it to upload

3D printer to the rescue. I printed these screens with 85% void space. Had to do them in halves and glue them together due to printer capacity, but I can also glue mounting tabs to them. Material is ABS. PETG is tougher but you can't glue it very well.

The screens are made by selecting a particular type of infill (this is rectilinear) and percentage, and then telling the slicer to not print the top and bottom layers.

I also made an intake screen for my leaf blower, which previously had a latched cover that was just a bitch to get open.

[Rick Kirchner]

Some progress on the 95/6 VD inner radiator duct. This one is harder than I expected.

[Daryl DeArman]

Also, for something different, printed a Pikes Peak (haven't been there) track map with mile and elevation marker

That's awesome!

[Rick Kirchner]

two color stuff is fun. If you don't have dual extruders you stop the print at the transition layer and change the filament. I made a bunch of labels for my RV's wet bay, first in white with a black paint dip and then I figured out the color change trick. Much nicer!

[Rick Kirchner]

I made a couple of widgets for my helmet. the zamp has three forward facing scoops - two on the jaws and one on top. I found that the one on top created so much drag it was pulling my helmet off, so I removed it and just left the four vent holes. Also, with all the scoops forward facing, along with the vents below the shield, there really wasn't anywhere for all that air to go.

So I made this reverse vent, which hopefully will create a little negative pressure behind it to pull the air through.

I used part of that design to create the mounting tabs for this connector block to corral my communication connectors.

This was perhaps the hardest design I've made in F360 yet. the mounting surface has a front, rear, and side radiuses, all different. I had to learn how to do surface modeling. Once I had the design, it was equally hard to print, as there's nothing that will lie flat on the print surface. I tried ABS, TPU, PLA, and finally PETG, as well as a couple of different orientations before I arrived at this marginally acceptable example.

[Chris Livengood]

I've had a heck of time getting PETG to print nice. I made a few camera mounts that came out great, but otherwise PETG has been a struggle.

Nice work on that helmet mount, it does look like a tricky model to make.

[Rick Kirchner]

PETG is ugly and finicky, really crappy for small details, but hell for stout. I made a bunch of those LD-200 tools, plus an assembly jig out of it.

Usually PETG is pretty much chemical proof, but there's also a lot of formulations, so you have to test every supplier.

I'd make more stuff out of nylon rather than PETG, but nylon really warps. Heard the carbon filled stuff is more stable.

[jchracer]

PETG is ugly and finicky, really crappy for small details, but hell for stout. I made a bunch of those LD-200 tools, plus an assembly jig out of it.

Usually PETG is pretty much chemical proof, but there's also a lot of formulations, so you have to test every supplier.

I'd make more stuff out of nylon rather than PETG, but nylon really warps. Heard the carbon filled stuff is more stable.

Yes, the carbon filled stuff is way more stable. I use it almost exclusively. More expensive but the parts are typically usable first try.

[Chris Livengood]

I want to use PETG for some mold making for my RD350. A nice carbon headlight bucket sounds sweet, and modeling and printing the molds would be a breeze, if it weren't for PETG.

Of course PETG is great for mold making because it won't bond with epoxy, so I just have to get my PETG game figured out.

[Rick Kirchner]

I needed to figure out if 20" or 19.75" axles were the better option for something I was working on, so I came up with these end caps for standard 3/4" tubing.

I can put it in the drive flanges without the boots , push the joints all the way in, and get an idea of which is better.

[Mike B]

I want to use PETG for some mold making for my RD350. A nice carbon headlight bucket sounds sweet, and modeling and printing the molds would be a breeze, if it weren't for PETG.

Of course PETG is great for mold making because it won't bond with epoxy, so I just have to get my PETG game figured out.

I've had success with PLA. You just need to do some sanding to remove the print texture (as you would with PETG) and seal the mold. I just seal it with a coat of epoxy, then some more light sanding. Mold release and do your lay-up.

[Chris Livengood]

That looks nice! I figured sanding would be required. I suppose I could go down the PLA route. I have a gallon of West Epoxy that I suppose would be perfect for sealing the molds with. I may mess with PETG a bit more, just to see how frustrated I can get.

[Rick Kirchner]

Compared to PLA, PETG is ridiculously hard to sand. It's kind of gummy. I see a lot of the COSPLAY crowd using PLA to make their stuff, they sand it, shoot it with high build primer, sand again, and then paint. I don't hear of many using PETG.

[Rick Iverson]

Kirchner;

A bit off course here, but regarding this:



Is the TDC valve cover linked to the chassis? If so, may I trouble you for a photo or two (and plans/part list) to msengineering at cox. Net?

[Rick Kirchner]

it is not tied to the chassis.

[Tommy B]

If any one is interested this is my latest Project

The 3D printed Prototype Mil Spec Connector Support Bracket is the first generation support bracket designed to suspend mil-spec connectors from frame tubes in a race car. This Prototype Mil Spec Connector Support Bracket is printed in PLA.

The Prototype Mil Spec Connector Support Bracket is designed to isolate the mil-spec connector from the frame. In addition, it reduces vibration transmitted into the mil-spec connection. This Bracket provides a stable four hole mounting surface for the mil-spec connector flange. When the mil-spec connector is fasten to the Bracket it provides a solid position, enabling easy connect and disconnect. In addition, the Bracket facilitates easy pin alignment during reassembly. The Bracket is easily installed using a single zip-tie that passes through a channel in the body of the Bracket. This design element allows the zip-tie to grasp the frame tube and be locked in place. In addition, the STL file is available free of charge on Thingiverse.com

For more project information check out the YouTube link and the specifications below:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3TYGUfe4f6M

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5147656

Specifications
Project Name: Prototype Mil Spec Connector Support Bracket
Project Number: P X 22 R - 2
Date of Design: 11-18-2021
Dimensions in: Millimeters
Tube Diameter: 32.42mm.
Mil-Spec Connector: Diameter 22.31mm.
Height: 10mm.
With: 28.36mm to 45.66mm.
Length: 57.83mm.
Material: PLA Silk, S/N:8004909282A.
Color: Light Gold.

[Rick Iverson]

Tommy;

I need to buy a dozen or so, JUST TO HAVE SOME. These are simply quite nicely done.

If any one is interested this is my latest Project

The 3D printed Prototype Mil Spec Connector Support Bracket is the first generation support bracket designed to suspend mil-spec connectors from frame tubes in a race car. This Prototype Mil Spec Connector Support Bracket is printed in PLA.

The Prototype Mil Spec Connector Support Bracket is designed to isolate the mil-spec connector from the frame. In addition, it reduces vibration transmitted into the mil-spec connection. This Bracket provides a stable four hole mounting surface for the mil-spec connector flange. When the mil-spec connector is fasten to the Bracket it provides a solid position, enabling easy connect and disconnect. In addition, the Bracket facilitates easy pin alignment during reassembly. The Bracket is easily installed using a single zip-tie that passes through a channel in the body of the Bracket. This design element allows the zip-tie to grasp the frame tube and be locked in place. In addition, the STL file is available free of charge on Thingiverse.com

For more project information check out the YouTube link and the specifications below:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3TYGUfe4f6M

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5147656

Specifications
Project Name: Prototype Mil Spec Connector Support Bracket
Project Number: P X 22 R - 2
Date of Design: 11-18-2021
Dimensions in: Millimeters
Tube Diameter: 32.42mm.
Mil-Spec Connector: Diameter 22.31mm.
Height: 10mm.
With: 28.36mm to 45.66mm.
Length: 57.83mm.
Material: PLA Silk, S/N:8004909282A.
Color: Light Gold.

[alangbaker]

If any one is interested this is my latest Project

For more project information check out the YouTube link and the specifications below:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3TYGUfe4f6M

Ummmm.... ...FYI.

Your video is set to debut on November 29, so no one can see it at the moment.

[Tommy B]

Ummmm.... ...FYI.

Your video is set to debut on November 29, so no one can see it at the moment.

Sorry
Check it now

[lowside67]

If any one is interested this is my latest Project

The 3D printed Prototype Mil Spec Connector Support Bracket is the first generation support bracket designed to suspend mil-spec connectors from frame tubes in a race car. This Prototype Mil Spec Connector Support Bracket is printed in PLA.

To me, if you were going to use a connector to join along side of a frame rail, you should be using an inline receptacle, not a 4-bolt flanged one which would be lighter and of a type that is easier to attach to the frame rail with a small piece of water hose separating the connector and frame rail, zip tied.

But, with that said, if this is a solution you want to use, an important detail that is omitted is what size and type of mil-spec connector this is built around since it'll only work for one specific flange connector. It looks like you are using a size 12 shell in your video, but it's not the normal polished or black anodized aluminum ms3470 motorsports ones I am used to seeing so I might be wrong.

-Mark (wiring junkie)

[Keith Carter]

I found a guy off of a Facebook group post residing in Poland that has made these models himself. I reached out to him to see if he would share or sell the STL files in order to be able to print them myself, but he prefers to just make the models for people and ship them out (unfortunately). I asked him if he'd ever reconsider to let me know, but it doesn't seem like it will happen. I'm a far way off in my Fusion 360 skills to be able to model this kind of stuff.

[david oleary]

I found a guy off of a Facebook group post residing in Poland that has made these models himself. I reached out to him to see if he would share or sell the STL files in order to be able to print them myself, but he prefers to just make the models for people and ship them out (unfortunately). I asked him if he'd ever reconsider to let me know, but it doesn't seem like it will happen. I'm a far way off in my Fusion 360 skills to be able to model this kind of stuff.

Hello I have 6 Indy car 1/18 scale models that are really close to looking like my car and the correct color also that i would like to find some to make a program to turn them into P2 cars by added fenders to the current bodies, looking for someone to design and make the file and parts, Anyone know someone?

[Tommy B]

Tommy;

I need to buy a dozen or so, JUST TO HAVE SOME. These are simply quite nicely done.

Hey Rick,

Thanks for your commit. It means a lot coming from a fast Guy like you

[lowside67]

Thought I'd share my latest 3d printed project - this is a combined mount and electronics breakout box for my Motec blind logger.

The printing process is "MJF" printing and this is my first time with that - I am super impressed with how nice the surface quality is. In this case, the part was printed, then media blasted, and finally dyed black before shipping to me.

-Mark

[Rick Kirchner]

That's pretty nice. I'm finishing up a mount for my old AIM system for a 90-96 chassis. It's pretty much just the one I did in sheet metal 15 years ago but a lot less complicated to assemble and a bit more compact. the floor holds the AIM box on lord shock mounts and the uprignt section holds the display and an adjuster for the steering pot. on the left is a power switch for the dash and on the right I've relocated the bias knob from the left side (where it was damn near under my thigh).

I was starting to go the route Tommy is going as far as a low-key print business is concerned. I have about a dozen designs for the garage/trailer, a ton of stuff for the motorhome. A really nifty piece of gear change tooling, the dummy shaft, and a parts sorter for the LD-200, about 30 other race car parts, and the VD inner duct that I'm still working on.

Started to feel a lot like work though!

[swiftdrivr]

I have wanted to make a carb cover for my FF that has a "hollow tube / drilled cylinder" type fitting on top to attach a little flag-on-a-stick, so I can't get the body on without removing the cover. My current cover is too light weight and too loosely fit to keep from falling over when you stick a flag on top. I had planned to weld up something out of aluminum but haven't gotten that far down my to-do list yet. It seems a reasonable fit for a 3-D printing project. Just a thought.

[swiftdrivr]

Everyone knows the real money is in Turtles!

THATS MY CAR !!!
[Well, at least when I'm driving it.]

[Mike B]

I have wanted to make a carb cover for my FF that has a "hollow tube / drilled cylinder" type fitting on top to attach a little flag-on-a-stick, so I can't get the body on without removing the cover. My current cover is too light weight and too loosely fit to keep from falling over when you stick a flag on top. I had planned to weld up something out of aluminum but haven't gotten that far down my to-do list yet. It seems a reasonable fit for a 3-D printing project. Just a thought.

I make one in bright orange plastic for visibility, or whatever color you choose. Custom logo is a little extra.

[teamwisconsin]

I make one in bright orange plastic for visibility, or whatever color you choose. Custom logo is a little extra.

This one fits really nicely, and the high-vis orange is a guarantee not to forget it. Thanks again Mike!

[Rick Kirchner]

The finished dash assembly for mounting an older AIM dash and DA box in a 90-96 VD.

I was hoping this would be easier to assemble/install than my previous aluminum mounting, but there just isn't enough room in that triangle to slide things through assembled. I'll have to put my thinking cap back on for that.

But, it did produce a decent dash mount with the relocated bias knob; a switch to re-boot the dash that is more readily accessed than it's current location on the panel above my left leg; a holder for the fire nozzle that actually keeps the damn end from rotating out of position and points it down a bit; and the "feet savers" I made for the cracked feet on the DA box.

[Rick Kirchner]

90-96 VD switch panel and a piece to keep your leg from being eaten by the switch panel.

[hdsporty1988]

90-96 VD switch panel and a piece to keep your leg from being eaten by the switch panel.

Rick. That is a very nice piece! Much nicer than the Van Diemen panel. Would you be willing to make a second set-up for a price? I love the LD200 pieces you sold me, really made changing gears much easier.

[Rick Kirchner]

Rick.

PM sent

[swiftdrivr]

The tennis ball is too large, but it was available. It keeps you from spearing your eye if you bend over the motor, but it's a bit large. I will probably replace it with an orange pink-pong ball eventually, maybe add a flag. What I probably won't do is put the tail on with the carb cover still in place again!

[It really needs one of those Union 76 "tenna-balls" from my youth! Right colors, right car number, rights size and weight, perfect]

Contact Mike Beauchamp if you want one. Excellent work!

[Rick Kirchner]

If you rotate that stick 90 degrees to be horizontal you still won't be able to get the tail on

[Rick Kirchner]

Still a little prototypey. Trying to decide if I want to latch onto the cap or latch onto the ring below the cap. The latter being more secure for sure.

[Chris Livengood]

Cool parts!

I am still learning a lot with my printer. I kind of hate the effer. Generally I can machine something out of aluminum or steel in like a fraction of the time. However, plastic is cheap, and it is cheaper than carbide end mills by a long a shot. I end up using the 3d printer for a lot prototype bits that I don't want want to waste good materials on, and despite my struggles, it does a solid job of making parts for that application. I am finally starting to get the hang of PETG a bit, the struggle has been real. PETG is surprisingly strong, even if it is hard to print, IME.

Here is a coolant manifold I made for my home converted CNC mill. The manifold turned out really nice, it is even water tight. I had to over extrude to get it to seal up (despite 100% infill), which makes PETG even worse to mess with, but it is real solid and works as needed. One of the interesting things to me, having learned traditional CAM methods before starting to 3d print, is that things like threads get modeled to be printed. Whereas I'd add the threads in CAM via reductive methods. So I have had to setup up my modeling game in that area. I never really needed to model a thread before, never mind a 1/4" NPT pipe thread.

[Rick Kirchner]

PM me anytime and maybe I can help if you are having issues. Another way of dealing with threads is to increase the number of walls and then just use a tap.

PETG was a struggle for me as well, but for perhaps different reasons than you. My machine has a textured flexible build plate. The PETG would stick so well you couldn't remove the parts. And any print that I killed while the build was less than 1/4 inch high was sure to never come off. I destroyed $100 worth of surfaces before I figured it out. Eventually I learned how to use Z-offset in the slicer, and that changed everything.

Now the biggest issue I have with PETG is that it's hard to get a pretty part. The stuff is stringy, there's almost no combination of settings that won't leave either zits or gaps, and it overextrudes like crazy, screwing up the top layers. If you need supports and overhangs, it prints like crap there. And just as a bonus, it prints slow too. Screw up once and forget to pay attention to the offset and you are still going to lose a build surface.

I sold some LD-200 gear change tooling made from PETG, and aesthetics were a constant worry.

But man is it tough, and it's half the price of nylon with there's no warpage worries.

On other forums and Facebook groups the biggest problem I see are non-technical people buying an Ender and having no idea of how to properly assemble stuff, test/work out the problems, etc. They think this is a consumer hobby. In it's own way, it's as complicated as machining. Also, people just don't read anymore. They don't read the instructions that come with the machine, and they just expect people on the internet to come to their aid without trying to figure out what's wrong.

[Mike B]

I made this dumb little palm socket wrench to hold a 6mm socket to remove or install a nozzle in a hot hot-end. However, it's turning out to be sort of handy (see what I did there?) so I can imagine using it in the shop.

[romoman]

This thread motivated me, well, pushed me over the edge, to get a printer "for the kids." I went inexpensive and got the Ender 3 v2. It's pretty amazing that for $250 I can print things without much work. I gave in and went hairspray on the glass bed and that stopped all adhesive issues.

I've not found PETG to be a problem. With the Overture brand filament, it's been basically PLA easy. I bought a textured magnetic bed and did have some prints stick to them, but carefully scraped it with a razorblade and it's serviceable. I use a plastic rasor blade to clean it now when things stick too well.

AiM Evo4s Sample



IR sensor cover to deactivate it.



Pitot tube mount and drill jig.