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Thread: Wheel Studs

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    Default Wheel Studs

    I am tired of dealing with these lug "bolts" on my Vee. Who thought those were a good idea? I would like to convert to wheel studs. Seems there are many options. Has anyone found the standard thread in ones to be inferior/superior to the press in "race" studs? If I can just thread them in with loctite that seems like the easier solution. Thoughts?

    Thanks,

    Nate

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    Quote Originally Posted by nrider42 View Post
    I am tired of dealing with these lug "bolts" on my Vee. Who thought those were a good idea? I would like to convert to wheel studs. Seems there are many options. Has anyone found the standard thread in ones to be inferior/superior to the press in "race" studs? If I can just thread them in with loctite that seems like the easier solution. Thoughts?

    Thanks,

    Nate
    I've been the screw in ones for several years using Loctite red thread locker.When you have to replace the drum little heat makes removal fairly easy.

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    Contributing Member problemchild's Avatar
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    For those that struggle with the VW lug bolts, the key is to stand to the side of the drum with your upper body above the drum. Hang the wheel with one hand and put in lugs with the other. No squatting, lifting, or awkward wheel juggling required. Using a traditional wheel positioning posture of squatting in front and lifting will be awkward and frustrating. If you hang the wheel from above, it won't matter whether you have studs or bolts.
    Greg Rice, RICERACEPREP.com
    F1600 Arrive-N-Drive for FRP and SCCA, FC SCCA also. Including Runoffs
    2020 & 2022 F1600 Champion, 2020 SCCA FF Champion, 2021 SCCA FC Champion,
    2016 F2000 Champion, Follow RiceRacePrep on Instagram.

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    I followed Dan’s lead and changed over 5 years ago. I use the EMPI studs and they have a shoulder which you can snug up to the drum (or disc.). I have good luck with blue Loctite and have only had one even think of coming loose. But then I never let an impact gun get near a wheel nut. I break them loose and then use a socket in a drill to remove. Red works too and you don’t need much. Just might need some grinding on the inside if the stud comes though too far but I have also only seem 2 or so out of 20 that needed grinding.

    Dan found a lightweight nut from an Audi I think, but I have used ones out of one of the California bug companies. Remember - it has to be a ball nut and not a cone!

    When putting them on, since the wheel does not self center, you have to be careful not to force them or bind them. That is where the variable speed drill works like a charm. Use Greg’s technique while lining up the nuts and make sure all 5 are seating before tightening.

    Now the spec tire has made things easier - before this I was changing tires before every time we went out, now sometimes I just torque in between heats/races. Although at Lime Rock they did come on and off because of the rain Saturday morning…

    I have also never had to torque a wheel over 65 ft lbs. Never had one come loose except when they were freshly painted - then they need to be checked after every session till the paint is worn down.

    my 2c cents

    ChrisZ

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    Thanks! The heavier Challenge Cup wheels and tires amplify this issue so I am going to give the studs a try. My backing plates don't have holes in them for brake adjustment with the wheels on so the wheels go on and off. I am also cutting holes in the backing plates....continuous education and improvement! Cheers!

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    Quote Originally Posted by nrider42 View Post
    Thanks! The heavier Challenge Cup wheels and tires amplify this issue so I am going to give the studs a try. ........
    I don't know about the current wheels, but when I ran a similar wheel in the '90s the wheel flange was thick enough that if you torqued to 65 you distorted the drum!

    Are the current wheels better and what torque are they using?

    ChrisZ

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    Not sure if they are the same wheel, they are made by Diamond. I torque to 60 ft-lb. Next year I am moving to the new wheels and tires that everyone else is using. More speeeeeed!!!!

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    Default +1 on the EMPI studs

    I changed to studs a couple years back and its sooooo worth it! Pretty sure mine are also EMPI. I got the ones without the shoulders, and I started out without Loctite - don't do that. I use blue Loctite and it works fine.

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    Morning All,

    I have been running studs for several years now and will not go back. Also EMPI now makes M12-1.5 ball seat lug nuts, part 70-2864-0 in a set of 5 that works great with there M12-1.5 wheel studs.

    R/--
    Harry
    CFR FV#77

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    Quote Originally Posted by HB280ZT View Post
    Morning All,

    I have been running studs for several years now and will not go back. Also EMPI now makes M12-1.5 ball seat lug nuts, part 70-2864-0 in a set of 5 that works great with there M12-1.5 wheel studs.

    R/--
    Harry
    CFR FV#77
    Brian Harding pointed out several years ago that Honda has ball seat lug nuts. Available on ebay I think.

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