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  1. #1
    Contributing Member DaveW's Avatar
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    Default FC bias spec tire pressure question:

    Since my 1st time running the Hoosier FC club & FRP bias spec tires (43164 front, 43285 rear) will be Mid Ohio at the end of the month, what pressures (cold, hot, front & rear) are you running ?

    Hoosier recommends 15-17 cold and 18-20 hot both front & rear. However, in the past I've always had to take manufacturers' recommendations with a grain of salt, so I'd like to know what works for you so I can have a good starting point.

    Thanks,
    Dave Weitzenhof

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by DaveW View Post
    Since my 1st time running the Hoosier FC club & FRP bias spec tires (43164 front, 43285 rear) will be Mid Ohio at the end of the month, what pressures (cold, hot, front & rear) are you running ?

    Hoosier recommends 15-17 cold and 18-20 hot both front & rear. However, in the past I've always had to take manufacturers' recommendations with a grain of salt, so I'd like to know what works for you so I can have a good starting point.

    Thanks,
    I’m running 14 to 15 cold pacific f 2000 series works good at our tracks

  3. #3
    Contributing Member DaveW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tahoe z View Post
    I’m running 14 to 15 cold pacific f 2000 series works good at our tracks
    Thanks,
    Dave Weitzenhof

  4. #4
    Contributing Member problemchild's Avatar
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    Dave,

    We found the 18-20 psi range worked well, finishing at 18-19 or 19-20. I don't know what that relates to cold, as I never use cold pressures as a baseline.

    This is old news, but anyone switching from the radials to bias, needs to make sure they put the appropriate spacers with their tripod housings to keep their rear axles contained. If you throw out an axle, you will offset much of the savings from the new tires.

    Also, be careful with your pyrometer, as the construction is much easier to puncture than the radials.

    We found camber settings were not sensitive to grip, but did effect wear. No need to be aggressive with camber.
    Last edited by problemchild; 04.12.22 at 11:16 AM.
    Greg Rice, RICERACEPREP.com
    F1600 Arrive-N-Drive for FRP and SCCA, FC SCCA also. Including Runoffs
    2020 & 2022 F1600 Champion, 2020 SCCA FF Champion, 2021 SCCA FC Champion,
    2016 F2000 Champion, Follow RiceRacePrep on Instagram.

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  6. #5
    Contributing Member DaveW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by problemchild View Post
    Dave,

    We found the 18-20 psi range worked well, finishing at 18-19 or 19-20. I don't know what that relates to cold, as I never use cold pressures as a baseline.

    This is old news, but anyone switching from the radials to bias, needs to make sure they put the appropriate spacers with their tripod housings to keep their rear axles contained. If you throw out an axle, you will offset much of the savings from the new tires.

    Also, be careful with your pyrometer, as the construction is much easier to puncture than the radials.

    We found camber settings were not sensitive to grip, but did effect wear. No need to be aggressive with camber.
    Thanks, Greg. I value your knowledge and willingness to share it.
    Dave Weitzenhof

  7. #6
    Classifieds Super License Rick Iverson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by problemchild View Post
    Dave,

    We found the 18-20 psi range worked well, finishing at 18-19 or 19-20. I don't know what that relates to cold, as I never use cold pressures as a baseline.

    This is old news, but anyone switching from the radials to bias, needs to make sure they put the appropriate spacers with their tripod housings to keep their rear axles contained. If you throw out an axle, you will offset much of the savings from the new tires.

    Also, be careful with your pyrometer, as the construction is much easier to puncture than the radials.

    We found camber settings were not sensitive to grip, but did effect wear. No need to be aggressive with camber.
    Geez, overwhelmed as usual.

    Thx Man.
    V/r

    Iverson

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