I'm new to FV. Where can I buy wheels for the challenge cup 195/60 R14 Falken tires?
Paul
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I'm new to FV. Where can I buy wheels for the challenge cup 195/60 R14 Falken tires?
Paul
Dean Curtis and Dermot Ennis
Are the Challenge Cup Series contacts for tires and wheels
I spoke with Dermot last week and he had 4 sets available in stock
Cheers Desmond
Hitch Aid
OK thanks, so this is indeed a custom wheel made just for this series and not just something I can source from OEM parts or the general aftermarket. Is that correct?
Finding 5x205 14" wheels has been tough to do with the google. :confused:
I wanted to make sure I was not missing something obvious.
Thanks.
Paul
no one else uses that size anymore, so *technically* they are being made for the FVC... but they are a wheel you can just call & order from Diamond wheels. the FVC just put together a large order & bought them for ease to competitors.
Visit
http://www.challengecupseries.com/index.php/techinfo
You will find all the information needed to get wheels direct from Diamond (Part number) and Series legal Falken tires.
http://www.diamondracingwheels.com/
DIAMOND RACING WHEEL – PART #: 14060-03-61-030-1-18 RIM
Tire: Falken Azenis RT 615 w/no suffix or 195/60/14 w/suffix K
http://www.falkentire.com/tires (store loator available to find a dealer near you).
If you are on the east coast and run the Challenge Cup which is where it happens, get in touch with Dean Curtis and get the tires and wheels from him and they come mounted and balanced and I don't think you will get a better deal elsewhere.
Ed
The Challenge Cup Series with Falken Tire and Diamond wheels. Has been able to offer a set of four, mounted and balanced. For $680.00 We have sets in stock just let me know. Dean
Excellent, thanks Dean. I'll be in touch.
Thanks all for the replies and info.
Paul
quick follow-up question...
last year at Pocono, a bunch of the guys were cleaning up some material around the lugs to add some thread engagement. what cutter was being used there? I may need to do that to my new set.
Dean had the attachment/cutter, send him an email
Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
Ok here is the wheel deal. The angle of the cup on the NEW wheels is too steep. We used a one inch ball cutter with a drill. You could take the time to take them to a bridgeport if you desire. The bottom line is we are two threads short and we don't want to strip out a drum. So the best bet is to bolt a wheel to a old drum and check that the threads reach the back (bottom) of the threads as viewed from the inside of the drum. Once you change the angle of the wheel hole you gain thread depth. You don't have to go crazy with cutting the wheel just check it off the car with the used drum. I wish I had a part # for the tool but I don't. The most important thing is the angle of the Wheel hole. You want enough surface area for the lug bolt to grip. When you make this cut you will enlarge the center wheel hole (slightly). That fine it will make it easier to mount the wheel. Look at the angle of the wheel stud to wheel hole before you start. You can see it easily.
gotcha. thanks, guys. I just couldn't find or remember what size ball that was.
What kind of tire pressure are you guys running with the Falkens? I have wheels coming tomorrow and plan to run them this weekend and would like a general tire pressure to start with so I don't go skidding off into the pasture on my first lap. 25 psi too high?
a lot of people will tell you 13 up front & 15 in the rear. Bill Vallis says this as well. however, Ray Carmody runs like 18-19 all around.
from what I have seen, the tall sidewall likes higher pressures to reduce squirm, gives less roll & more response. it also seems to reduce heat & pressure buildup thru the session.
I think starting in the middle (15F / 17R) until you get used to the slip angle & grip levels is where you want to be. tweak & experiment from there.
Perfect, exactly what I needed, thanks Matt.
Where are you running this weekend?Quote:
Originally Posted by 2Dogs
TVR and ALSCCA are hosting the "No Frills" time trial at Talladega Grand Prix Raceway. It's a very laid back, fun weekend.
Come on down if you can, it's not far from Birmingham.
I picked up my wheels at UPS this morning and have a guy who can mount and balance wide 5's, so I'm ready to go. He said they didn't need much weight and the wheels were straight, so kudos to Diamond Racing Wheels. They also did a great job fabricating and shipping them quick!
Man is it nice not having to haul around 3 sets of tires. I got everything stowed in the back of my station wagon, without having to drop the rear seats. :thumbsup:
http://i.imgur.com/q7fnRbq.jpg
Great looking car ! Have fun enjoy your new car.
Hopefully you can take in one our events next season
Cheers
Desmond Ennis
Ez Hitch Guide
Thanks Desmond. My plan is to get my RR license this winter and attend some events. I'd like to make my way up North for some CC races if I can. That's the plan anyway. :greenflag:
I don't see a one day registration on their supps. I have to work Saturday. Maybe in the spring though, looks like a fun weekend. I used to run TT's and hillclimbs in PA when I was first getting my license.Quote:
Originally Posted by 2Dogs
Good luck this weekend!
I worked a day and drove a day back in April, one day is definitely doable. Keep it in mind and hope to see you in the Spring!
The Falkens don't seem to respond much to minor changes (on my car anyway). I've tried all over the board and 13front 15rear seems to work best for me. But track conditions make all the difference. Most CC cars have an inherent understeer at most tracks. Mid Ohio in July was probably the worst. Everybody was battling severe understeer the entire weekend as far as I know. I made lots of changes all over the board, shock adjustment, tire pressure. Nothing seemed to work. Adjusting the driving style seemed to work the best. The way you enter or exit the corner. For me, my car would understeer really bad coming out of a few of the corners. Turn in was fine. Most of the trouble was coming out and from what I could see that was the case with most cars. I adjusted my driving style and that improved the condition some. On the other side of the coin, the last two races at Pittsburgh and Watkins Glen there was lots of bite. No real problems with handling at all other than turn 17 it Pittsburgh. My car would understeer real bad coming out of that turn. But if I went slow and took a late Apex the understeer would mostly go away. So driving style has a lot to do with it.Quote:
Originally Posted by 2Dogs
My car had zero understeer at Mid-Ohio. Maybe you should buy a Womer:ha:Quote:
Originally Posted by bobs66440
;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Elwell
the understeer can be resolved by setup changes, but it seems like a lot of people aren't making enough changes. these radials seem to amplify existing low track grip & whatever handling your car already had, so bigger swings need to be taken on some cars. they can be made to drive very neutral. but some corners will make you push no matter what.
I have heard that BRDs like the lower pressures from several people. I don't know if it's due to the rear suspension geometry, or if it's something the taller/upright cars do. it's not something I can experiment with, since my car is so different.