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Thread: HANS Device

  1. #1
    Senior Member
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    Default HANS Device

    For anyone using the HANS with the FSCCA, where are you mounting the belts and did you have to do any modifications to the stock mounting points? As I measure the distance between the mounting points, the only one that is near the 6" spacing is the lowest one. The 6" max. distance between mounting points is still recommended right? Just curious.

    Tony

  2. #2
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    Default belts

    tony I had to weld a bar across were the pickup pionts are now and move the belts closer together then also am using the 2in. stroth belts because the 3in. belts kept sliding off the hans no poblem since. they are 2in. shoulder belts 3in. lap belts work great Dan.

  3. #3
    Senior Member chuckj's Avatar
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    Default

    Tony: Here's a photo of what I did to my car. This should give you a good idea of what to do. Used a a piece of 1" chromemoly and a tubing notcher to fishmouth it. Welded in a couple of inserts then TIGed it in. You can only get about a 2/3 weld around the frame, but with it notched properly it isn't going anywhere. Look at the HANS instructions, I think the recommended measurement is 2.5 or 3 inches inside to inside on the belts.
    Chuck

  4. #4
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    Default Anyone have their mounts in double shear?

    This is also on the top of my to-do list. Some of the posts in the general discussion section recommend that one should have these in double shear like the stock mounts. Anyone come up with a way to move them inward and also have them in double shear?

    -darius miller

  5. #5
    Contributing Member Eric Cruz's Avatar
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    Default

    Yes. I used two pieces of 1" flat bar TIGed in the "V" much like chuckj shows the tubing mounted in his picture. I'll find pictures and try to post ASAP.

    Best regards,
    Eric
    If you don't think too good, don't think too much.
    - Ted Williams

  6. #6
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    Default pictures would be great Eric, thanks

    -darius

  7. #7
    Member Wally O's Avatar
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    Default

    I used 1" c-moly tubing but added tabs to the tube to use the existing belt mounts. Was concerned to weld with the tank so close. I also felt that it would be easier to change for different drivers. I use wrap type belys but bracket can use bolt in.

    Wally O

  8. #8
    Contributing Member Eric Cruz's Avatar
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    Default

    Here's the pics (I think....) Darius. Maybe not the best pictures, but I used steel plate about .100 to .125 thick, and 1" wide. Used cardboard to make template, and cut to fit between "V" tubes. You can really only TIG on top side, and just used a piece of AL flashing to shield the fuel cell and labels from scorching. Used a couple washers to maintain same vertical spacing as necessary to snugly fit mounting tabs of should harnesses between the plates. Used a right-angle drill to drill the holes 5-1/2" to 6" apart for the mounting bolts, once everything was welded in place. Paint them up and you'e done.

    Hope this helps. Holler if you have questions: 757-869-1545 (days).

    Best regards,
    Eric
    If you don't think too good, don't think too much.
    - Ted Williams

  9. #9
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    Default Thanks, looks like a nice setup Eric

    Any pictures of yours Wally?

  10. #10
    Member Wally O's Avatar
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    I hope I figured out how to reduce these pictures and they work? I have drawings.
    Wally

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