Open trailer for my Zink Formula Vee

[For fun]

I am getting close to complete the restoration of a 68 Zink and I just got offered a Karavan dual snowmobile trailer (8' x 10'). Anyone with experience using a snowmobile trailer to transport their FV?
If you do, can you share some photos?
Thanks.

[provamo]

get a real trailer with properly sized wheels and tires and brakes

protect your expended effort and time

[jrh3]

Check the bed height, most have straight axles and can be rather high

[For fun]

Thanks
For a moment, temptation got me ?

[For fun]

You are right. I just remember a neighbor who has one and the height is too much. Will need like a 10’ ramp to make it work.

[mmi16]

You are right. I just remember a neighbor who has one and the height is too much. Will need like a 10’ ramp to make it work.

10 foot ramps are available at every Home Depot or Lowes

Get something with a sprung axle. My trailer originally came with a solid axle. Was having to fix F500 suspension elements after towing. Took the trailer to a local trailer supply/repair business and had a torsion axle installed. It raised the ride height a couple of inches but the trailer has been following various tow vehicles for almost 30 years.

[10rmotor]

10 foot ramps are available at every Home Depot or Lowes

Get something with a sprung axle. My trailer originally came with a solid axle. Was having to fix F500 suspension elements after towing. Took the trailer to a local trailer supply/repair business and had a torsion axle installed. It raised the ride height a couple of inches but the trailer has been following various tow vehicles for almost 30 years.

If you re-clock the arms on the torsion axle you can lower the height of the trailer and make it easier to load or unload. Depending on how much wheel movement there is before you start rubbing fenders this may help quite a bit. I did that on my 3 axle toybox trailer and it made life easier. I don't go off road so it wasn't an issue.

[S Lathrop]

Do a little research on the Auto Dynamics FV trailer.

That was my first race car trailer and I pulled it with a 142 Volvo.

The trailer was a tilt bet trailer and did not require ramps. For wheels and axles the trailer used VW front spindles with the steering arms removed. The axle was a 4" square tube with plates welded to the ends .The spindles bolted through the plates and it used the VW front drum and wheels. The tung for the trailer bolted to the axle tube. The bed of the trailer was just long enough for the FV to fit. The bed was made from angle iron and wood planks. There were wheel stops at the front of the bed that you strapped the wheels to and that held the car in place on the trailer bed.

The trailer was light, simple and worked well. Yes it did bounce and that required that the car be well strapped down to the trailer.

[mmi16]

If you re-clock the arms on the torsion axle you can lower the height of the trailer and make it easier to load or unload. Depending on how much wheel movement there is before you start rubbing fenders this may help quite a bit. I did that on my 3 axle toybox trailer and it made life easier. I don't go off road so it wasn't an issue.

The couple of inch 'raise' was from 6 inches to 8 inches - the 10 foot ramps allow unloading/loading the cars on any surface no matter if the trailer is hooked to the truck or not.

The 'home depot' ramps are 2" x 10" x 10' long and I have been using them for 20+ years.