What size canopy?

[oh2winindy]

We are going to buy a canopy, and have found a source on Ebay that seems to be very inexpensive. We had a 10 X 20 that we donated to an animal rescue group. It seemed to be kinda thin, so we were thinking about a 20 X 20. What are your opinions, and will I have room at most tracks to set up a 20 x 20? Thanks in advance for your replies!!

[Purple Frog]

In the SEDIV, especially at regional/SARRC races you should always have room for a 20 x 20. Only at Road Atlanta does it get crowded at times. If it's a real pinch, you can always park the trailer under half of the 20 x 20.

I have always used a 20x20. A 10 x 20 will work (especially if it's free). At one time I had a 20 x 20 with vertical supports in the middle, then I could build it as a 10 x 20 or a 20 x 20, or in a special case a 14 x 20. The problem with 10' wide, is that if there is any wind combined with the rain, there is no dry spot under the canopy.

If you have either Cosco or Sams in the neighborhood, check them out, many times their prices are really low, and you aren't paying shipping.

If you are buying, buy the 20 x 20. I say that because one day you'll have a scale pad and you'll want two bays under the tent, one for the car and one for the scale pad.

[rickjohnson356]

Glad to see that you have the car ready to go this year! good luck at the driver school.

It depends on your wallet. For a single car, a 20x20 is probably too big and requires a lot of work to set up/take down. A10x20 will work fine and does not limit your paddock choices.

Personally, i use 2 10x10 ez-ups. as I can set up/take down each one by myself and also have the option of using only 1 if i want (test days, short sessions etc). you don't have to worry about bringing/storing/losing all of those poles of different lengths, along wih the corner pieces. the ezup style goes up/down quickly, stores compactly and looks more professional than the tarp-style.

the ez-up brand can get expensive. look for knock-offs. i paid 90.00 each for mine.

[rickjohnson356]

Looks like there are multple opinions (as usual).

[DOC]

Rick,

Where did you find 10X10's for $90 each?

DC

[carnut169]

Jamie-


I have both sizes and all of the above posts are correct. 10x20 is easier to set up and take down, and is plenty of room for 1 car.

20x20 is great if you have a pit cart, scale pad or both! It is really neat to have all that room.

I will say that the 20x20 I got on Ebay and it is not the greatest quality. That, and you will need to buy more poles ($$) and its a much larger sail to catch the wind...

[rickjohnson356]

I got mine at a sports equip store chain in atlanta call The Sports Authority. I don't know if they are a national chain or not. The actual brand name is 'Diamond Peak' (I think). I will be at the shop thurs night and check for sure and reply here. A friend of mine got some at Sam's Club that are EZ-up brand, but not their top quality. Check there too.

One feature that my units do not have is rollers attached to the case, so I have to lift them up to move them around. Not usually a problem, but occaisionally a PITA. Also, be sure to get ones that have vertical legs. Some less expensive ones use angled legs which results in less than 10x10 coverage.

An additional item for consideration: you can start with one unit and add units as the budget allows. I am considering getting a third unit so that I can use 2 for the car and one for crew and 'sponsors hospitality' area. lots of different setup variations available with separate units.

I made a 'gutter' out of 4" PVC cut longitudinally to hang at the inside seam of the 2 units to keep water from dripping on the car when it rains. Haven't had to use the gutter yet so i don't know how well it works.

[Rick Kirchner]

I got a very nice professional EZ Up that's a true 10x10 (straight legs) at Sam's club last July. HD steel frame, heavy white fabric that stays attached when collapsed, four sidewalls, and a sunshade that attaches via a couple of poles to the main legs and requires no other support. And a big roller bag (it's a POS though). All for $199. I've seen the 10x20 EZ up on their web site and I don't know what they're smoking, as they want more than $700 for it and you could just buy two 10x10's for $300 less. The professional models are REALLY heavy - if you are by yourself manhandling the 10x10 into the bag and setting it up is a real chore, I can't imagine how much one of the big ones weighs.

[TedV]

One thing to consider with an EZ-up, if it rains it can collect water in the top. Unexpected rain storm over night.. too much water and it will collapse. The electrical conduit and tarp kind are more a PTA to put up, but work better and are more durable.

What ever you get securely TIE IT DOWN ON ALL CORNERS!!! I’ve seen many large uncontrolled kites crashing thru the paddock. Even seen em cruising across the race track.

[Dale Carter]

We have used a 12 x 20 for a few years and was sort of cramped but was easy to handle and wasn't too bad in the wind. We attach one side to the trailer. Last year we used a 20 x 20. The extra room was great but didn't handle the wind too well and was a problem for just two people to lift (actually one normal person and a short old fart). This year we are going to use a 16 x 20 as a compromise. Side and end walls are also a nice feature, keeps everything dry at night and holds in the heat if it's cold. In the past we used the silver reflective tarps but if you use the walls it gets very dark in there. We are using white this year. Also if you get the top with a fringe or valance it keeps the water from running between the trailer and side walls if you use them.

[Purple Frog]

In '04 we traded up to a new wizzy 20 x 20 white unit after 6 years of the heavy silver type. Even got the nice valances that hang over the outside rails. Underneath, it is so much nicer on the ol' eyes in terms of available light. But, once it got into July we realized it was letting too much heat through.
In '05 we are thinking about maybe painting some purple stripes on it to tone it down a bit. (pun intended)

[Frank C]

Big canopies do have lots of area and have to be tied down very well. If not, you may be yelling, "Oh, too windy!"

- Frank C

[Dale Carter]

Here is a photo of our 20 x 20 post rain/wind storm. Fastened to trailer, ground and tied to car roll hoop in center. Note the banana bent pipes in the roof section. I had to pull it down in the storm before it ripped everything up (right after I put up my twinkle lights). Try that by yourself! Gosh,I love racing.

[Gary Payne]

Side Note: If you use an enclosed trailer and plan to set the canopy up next to it. Make sure the ez up type or traditional canopy legs are tall enough to allow you to clear the side door swing and to keep you from knocking yourself in the head against a canopy span everytime you go in and out of the door. (Now the midwest guys know why I used to wear my helmet in the paddock!)

[RussMcB]

One thing to consider with an EZ-up, if it rains it can collect water in the top. Unexpected rain storm over night.. too much water and it will collapse.

Hmm. I have a 10x20 EZ up and I can't imagine this happening. The top is taunt and the legs and braces are very sturdy. Perhaps the lesser quality ones do this?

I like my 10x20. It's not easy, but it is possible for one person to move it around and erect it. I carry a hand truck to make it easier to move around in the paddock. Two people can erect it in 5 minutes.

[Steve Demeter]

If you don't mind being a little cramped on the width, the kind that attach to the side of your trailer are simply fantastic. Up or down in about 1 minute. Nothing to carry around or take up space in the trailer.

Stay put in wind, although I anchor the outboard corners to the ground if it starts blowing real hard.

Disadvantages: Costly, and only can be about 10' wide max.

[Joefisherff]

I would go with the larger canopy, it's nice to have your stuff out of the sun/rain and if there is lousy weather a small one won't protect you and your valuables. Putting up my 20X20 takes me about 15 minutes so it's not too labor intensive. Check out Holiday Canopy and or Pegasus, they are fellow racers and they stand behind their stuff. If you buy one of the kits that requires you to buy conduit for the bars buy the better grade of conduit (thicker wall thickness) it will hold up much better when the winds blow. Alot of guys fill buckets with concrete and put an eye bolt in the concrete to tie off to and keep your canopy planted (you will need 4 to 5). As mentioned above a good thunderstorm will trash your canopy, trailer, car and competitors cars real quick when they take off like kites!

[Rick Kirchner]

One of the guys out here calls 'em "Willow Springs hang gliders" after trying to hold one down and getting lifted off with the canopy!

[oh2winindy]

Ok, now that I have stopped laughing, I want everyone to make sure they see reply number 12. Funny as heck, and very clever... thanks Frank for the smile and thanks everyone for the replies!!!!

[D.T. Benner]

The best setup I have found is to park my trailer about 15' from my friends Motorhome and overlap the wall mounted rollup awnings. I know not everyone has that option but it sure works well even in the rain.

[dereklola]

After much debate (with myself!) I decided that RV type roll up canopies are the best compromise if you have a small or no crew. The main reason being that when it rains in summer it is usually windy and/or thundery as well and the best thing to do is is get the canopy down. With the RV type you can do this in a couple of minutes. And if you leave the track at night you lower the canopy almost all the way down [still rolled out] - little chance of blowing away and very rainproof.

It's a compromise. The worst is that standard canopies are only 8' wide. We manage - just encourages you to be neat. I do have a friend who found a 10' wide roll up. Next time.

YMMV

[AJWALKER]

Last season ordered and install a RV type roll out canopy. It is high quality unit that extends 11 ft. giving plenty of room. Being a one man show most of the time, the roll up is great. The outfit (http://americanmadeawnings.com/racecar.htm) was great and helped out when I found that my tape measure was different than theirs.

[Marshall Mauney]

Big canopies do have lots of area and have to be tied down very well.

True. I came up with a simple solution: For my 10x20, there are 6 support legs. For the bottom of each leg, I took a 3-gallon bucket and filled it with concrete. In the center of the concrete, I placed a piece of 1" ID PVC pipe, capped at the bottom to keep it open while the concrete dried. The PVC is about 1" longer than the bucket is deep. I then put the legs into the PVC and drilled through them both, making a retaining hole for a clevis pin. Each bucket ends up weighing 40-50 lbs; the combination of all 6 has managed to keep my canopy in place ever since.

This system was devised based on my 'experience'. To fully understand this, you must realize that 'experience' is something you generally acquire about 30 seconds after you desperately needed it.....

[carnut169]

Thats great Marshall.

Do you also pin the top of the legs to that bracket? If so, did you number them for assembly?

[RussMcB]

I haven't had my own awning take flight, but I've seen it, so I believe it's well worth the effort to secure them well. You only need to see that once to be a believer.

I've got the "cement bucket" set up, too. I used (4) 3-gal. plastic buckets from Home Depot/Lowes. Handles are handy.

Two of my awning's six legs are bolted (finger tight) to a couple of brackets attached to my trailer. A side benefit to attaching to the trailer in the same place each time: that helps position the awning so that it clears the door.

[Marshall Mauney]

Do you also pin the top of the legs to that bracket? If so, did you number them for assembly?

No, the tops don't seem to need retaining pins, although I've considered it. The supporting angle brackets (I have a conduit-style canopy) have clamping eyebolts that tighten down onto the top of legs. They seem to be tight enough to do the job...at least so far, they do.

MM

[Curtis Boggs]

We have used a 12 x 20 for a few years and was sort of cramped but was easy to handle and wasn't too bad in the wind.

Dale,

Not to hi-jack the thread, but, .. I noticed you have your tires mounted flush to the wall, ..
how did you do this??? Can you e-mail or post a few photos???? Please, ...

Curtis
curtis@cboggs.com

OH, Just found this, .. Harbor Freight, .. cheap EZ-ups, .. !!
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...750&pricetype=

Curtis

[RussMcB]

... tires mounted flush to the wall, ..
how did you do this??? Can you e-mail or post a few photos????

I saw this in someone's trailer and really liked how it didn't intrude into the interior space as much. The ones I saw were made from 1" square tubing. I made mine out of wood. The lower tires sit on the fender, and the second "shelf" is attached (primarily) using E track bracketry.

Picture:
http://russmcb.dominodeveloper.net/m...%20tire%20rack

[Dale Carter]

Curtis, I have a drawing for special wall brackets that I made. I can e-mail in any CAD format or I can fax it to you. Let me know. dale@apexspeed.com

[Curtis Boggs]

Curtis, I have a drawing for special wall brackets that I made. I can e-mail in any CAD format or I can fax it to you. Let me know. dale@apexspeed.com

Surfcam might be OK, .. but i'd be better to fax it, .. 703-995-0727

Thanks, ..

Curtis

[EYERACE]

a buddy made this suggestion and it sure does save time to assemble a canopy that uses pipes/conduit/corners......assemble all corners and tubing without the tarp on it and then take different color spray paint and color code paint the various joints - then just lay out and assemble by colors when you're at the track. i used light color at one end and worked to darker colors on the other end

[Bill Hetzel]

A couple of the guys out here solved the wind problem on the conduit canopys by putting 4 eyebolts thru the side of their trailers. The conduit for one side of the canopy goes thru these and eliminates 3 of the legs ( on a 10 x 20 ). The legs on the other side are weighted with bucket/cement. Having the canopy attached to the trailer keeps it from blowing away and it no longer beats up the side of the trailer in the wind.

[Dale Carter]

Here is what I came up with to fasten our 1" conduit canopy to the existing gutter on our Pace trailer. Used the existing trailer screws. Used three on a 20' trailer. Works great.

[Jim Roemer]

As long as we're discussing canopies; what about the conduit storage problem. I bungee cord groups of 6 and lay them along side the car, but I've seen some guys with big PVC tubes attached to the sides of the trailer (enclosed trailers) and heard of (but not seen) tubes attached to the inside roof of trailers for storage. Anyone have suggestions (read easy/cheap to build/acquire and install!)?

[Dale Carter]

I built some cheap 1 x 12 cabinets and attached a box for the pipes to store in, above them.

[John Robinson II]

I bought a canopy from Holliday. It was a 12 x 24 above trailer type. I didnt like having the open space between the canopy and the trailer roof, so I made some "+" that allowed to run an additional brace the length of the trailer and lower the mounting points ( much easier when you dont have to lift canopy to roof line to engage brackets) and wrap the tarp over and around the top tube. Had to shorten the width but not by much. For weights I use 50# plates with a tie down strap through the hole and hooked to one of the thumb screws in the brackets. I am able to set up and take down by myself with minimal trouble. They also make brackets and tubes to attach to trailers.

To store the pipes, I made to brackets that go up from the wheel wells and keep the pipes against the wall. On the other side of the trailer I have done the same thing to store the ramps and runners for the platen.

FWIW, I also made a wooden shelf, 2x4, (just above the pipe and ramps) to set the platens on. Then just strap to the wall.

John

[jim morgan]

John,

I thought you tied your canopy down to your generator. What's with all these mid day posts do you now work less than me.

[Marshall Mauney]

As long as we're discussing canopies; what about the conduit storage problem.

To store my conduit (3/4"), I strapped a 10' section of drainange pipe to the inside of my trailer wall, capped at one end. The open end is near the ramp, so if the tubes slide backwards in transit, they're retained by the (closed) door. I also angled it slightly nose-down. For clamping, I used plumbing straps just like you would use for waste piping ijn a house - three clamps have worked well, so far. The pipe size is the largest I could get - I don't remember the exact size, but it fits the overhead pipes exactly; I generally keep the legs in the concrete buckets, bungeed together.

MM

[Bill Hetzel]

I found folding hangers at Home Depot and mounted 3 of them up high in the trailer. They extend about 6 inches out from the trailer wall when in use. After you unload them, they can be pushed up to unlock and they fold flat against the wall out of the way.