Both times I had the two marks next to each other and the pressure plate had movement between the rivits. The new pressure plate dose not have any marks but still has movement between the rivits as well. So iduno...Originally Posted by Wayne_S
Both times I had the two marks next to each other and the pressure plate had movement between the rivits. The new pressure plate dose not have any marks but still has movement between the rivits as well. So iduno...
Glass is half full!
At least it worked!
N deed!
Also I have die-cut averill stickers...
Love the driver's name!
Stephen Adams
RF92 Van Diemen FFord
1980 Lola T540 FFord
Because it does take a village...
and ya gotta start somewhere
One last thing before I am off...
Before my adjustment the oil pressure at idle when cold 40psi, and then 20psi when water temp was about 170. After my adjustment the oil pressure was 40psi when cold, and 20 psi when hot.
However before my adjustment oil pressure would bounce off 120psi when revving the motor when water temp was about 170. After 1 1/4 turn out on the adjuster screw the oil pressure will now bounce off 80psi.
Some pics of me short cutting. I drilled a 3/16 hole to get the allen wrench to the screw and then pop riveted it closed after.
(Ignore the canadian speed holes in the frame)
I think that is it (I hope).
Oh, and here are some clutch pics from the last split.
Here you can see clearly the balancing mark. Someone was kind enough to paint it red.
Might just be the photo, or my bad memory... but...
To me it doesn't look like the fingers on the diaphram spring are pointing out towards the oil tank as far as I remember. I remember them forming more of a cone shape. When the throwout bearing pushes on those in the picture there doesn't look like much travel before it would hit the clutch disk hub.
Maybe others have an opinion.
Right. The photo does show that the fingers are almost perfectly parallel to the flywheel. And in the instructions it states that they should point out ever so slightly towards the trans. I struggled to find pictures that would help me compare my tilton 7.25 against others. That is why I love threads like this. Filled with info and pictures. If anyone has a pic of their tilton mounted up please post it in here.Might just be the photo, or my bad memory... but...
To me it doesn't look like the fingers on the diaphram spring are pointing out towards the oil tank as far as I remember. I remember them forming more of a cone shape. When the throwout bearing pushes on those in the picture there doesn't look like much travel before it would hit the clutch disk hub.
Maybe others have an opinion.
Might just be the photo, or my bad memory... but...
To me it doesn't look like the fingers on the diaphram spring are pointing out towards the oil tank as far as I remember. I remember them forming more of a cone shape. When the throwout bearing pushes on those in the picture there doesn't look like much travel before it would hit the clutch disk hub.
Maybe others have an opinion.I think you are both correct. This indicates that for some reason the spring is over-compressed as installed, making it impossible to disengage due to little remaining travel. So either the clutch area was too raised above the clutch bolt circle area, or the PP was too thick, or the clutch outer ring was machined down to "solve" a slipping clutch caused by the spring having been over-compressed (likely caused by no pedal stop) and yielded.
Dave Weitzenhof
Or
The clutch disc is installed with the boss toward the engine and the boss is jammed on the flywheel bolts.
Confession: I just did this myself.I knew better, just got in a hurry got everything aligned, and tightened it down. Fingers were pointed toward the engine, not the transaxle.
Nuts, call to Averill tomorrow to order new clutch disk.
Lola: When four springs just aren't enough.
I've had this malady with my 90 Reynard before with the same symptoms you are describing, luckily I took it right apart. My symptom was the clutch wouldn't disengage fully so I was unable to get the selection of any gears without an ugly sound.
Congrats to hdsporty for his first race back and finishing first place!
Also thanks for the brake pads!!!!!
Thank you and you're welcome. Now let's race together on 7/2 !Congrats to hdsporty for his first race back and finishing first place!
Also thanks for the brake pads!!!!!
Well, the first time out with the car was good. Nothing leaked, and nothing broke that I had not broke already. I spent some $$$ on some fiberglass resin (again) and had to repair a side pod that tore as I was backing the car out of the trailer at night. Also fixed the diffuser that was rubbing the ground since it was falling off the car as I was driving (I broke it during the winter). But that is no biggie. I am almost done with those two fixes already.
However I still felt unsafe to race. I was black flagged because of my helmet height. So I had to modify my seat at the track, and that left me in a bad position. I now have some decent bruises from being smashed in there. That and I am not so sure of how the best way to get into second gear from third. Every other gear change is perfect, it just this third to second I have to wait until some very low rpms to get it in with out any jolt. I want to go around the corners much faster. Will I have to blip the engine up to engage the second gear dogs? If so... How? I have never heel-toed before. The last car I would just let the clutch out slowly, and never had a problem.
Also I must have tyrannosaurus rex arms. Because to get me that low I have to sit back farther. But then I cant reach third gear or hardly grab the steering wheel. So I crunched down and pinned my knees on the dash board (some of my bruises) then I was able to be under the roll hoop and reach the steering wheel. Not exactly a comfortable position. Is there a way to move the controls back? The pedals are all the way up front too.
Here is a crappy vid of the HPDE day. This car does not video to well. I will try another type of mount and some more bland angles next time. I just don't think it will turn out as cool as the older videos I have made.
Last edited by xmazdatracy; 06.04.17 at 7:58 AM.
I can't see the video on this network. (No Youtube access) Can I assume that vibration is the major issue?
I found less vibration from a GoPro suction cup mount on the body near the roll bar, plus a 3/4" nylon strap tightly pulling the camera body towards the roll bar. I fastened the nylon strap (an old snowboard leash) first and then positioned the suction cup so the strap was preloaded. That really cut down on the vibration at sub 90 mph speeds. Here's an example: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tinLcl0wIzo
Depending on how your front roll hoop is designed, it may be easy enough to have an extension welded onto this. I have two Swifts and this mod has been done to both of them. The Swift is made with square tubing on the top of front roll hoop, so a trapezoid shaped piece is installed that makes this point approx 2 inches higher. It presents no problem at all for mounting the body work. If you are barely failing the 'broom test', this may be a simple option that will essentially raise the broom for you.
Are you leaned back enough in your seat? Most formula cars recline you pretty far. When I poured my Reynard seat I had my ass as far forward as it would go and reclined as far as I could and still reach the steering wheel. It sounds like you may have been too upright in the car, or you're like 6'7".
Gotta blip on the downshifts. You don't have to heel-toe, but you do have to get the load off the dogs to disengage each gear which means a touch of throttle. You should do it for each downshift.
Other people may have different views or opinons than mine, but I will comment on a couple things
Diffuser: At the moment I have between 30 and 40 sessions on my FC and I haven't bothered with mounting the diffuser. When learning the limits of a car, you are surely going to loose grip and spin the car out at some point. There is a tendency for a formula car to turn around backwards on you and travel in a rearward motion until you skid to a stop. If you have gone off in area that isn't as smooth as a golf course the diffuser is probably going to sustain some damage. I am saving myself the potential headache of fixing this thing. At some point, I will put the diffuser on and that will change the characteristics of the car some. It might even make it necessary to set the car up a little different. There is a valid point to learn the handling of the car with the diffuser. But, I am happy to trade off a little speed for not having to bother with the thing until I am better at handling the car.
Clutchless shifting: this is the ticket to driving the car smoother and faster. I think most people that are driving H-pattern dog ring boxes will tell you that they only use the clutch to get the car rolling out of the pit and grid. I am not sure how the steering is set up in the Reynard, but hopefully your rack and steering shaft are not in a place that affects getting your left foot to the brake. The reason you want to be able to clutchless shift, is so you can free up your left foot to run the brake. Yes, you will have learn the art of 'rev matching' to become proficient at this. Lift off throttle to shift up, and increase throttle (while in neutral) to match the revs going down in gears. You may be able to jam the thing into a lower gear without matching revs, but you will most probably experience one of two things 1) broken dogs or teeth on your gears 2) upset the rear of the car and spin out. This takes some time and practice to figure out, but is a very satisfying feeling when rounding a corner, braking and going down a gear to have power when coming out of corner.
Getting comfortable in the car: I will argue that this is one of the most important pieces of setting up the car! If you are uncomfortable, or you are getting injured (bruises) with every outing... how can that be safe? How can that be fun? If you need to get deeper in the car for your arms to be at the right distance from gear selector and steering, you may need to move the throttle and master cylinders further forward. I had to move the pedals 1.5" forward on one car and I can't even begin to tell you the difference that made. Being comfortable and having the car set up to fit your body's geometry will increase safety, and enjoyment.
When you are at the track don't focus on trying to be the guy at the front of the pack right now. Gain comfort in the car, and learn to operate the motor and the gear box correctly. Learn the limits of grip on the car. If other cars are passing you... who cares!! Learn to handle your machine, run 'your' race and speed will simply start becoming a by product of these things.
First and foremost you have to get comfortable. Everything is adjustable, it is just a matter of how to best do so starting with the seating position. Since in talking to you the problem appears to be that you were sitting too high relative to the roll hoop, the first place to start is with how much of your foam seat is under your butt. With my seat there is almost no foam in that area, I'm virtually sitting on the floor which is not unusual in these cars. Once you have a comfortable legal seating position the pedals (turn the actual pedal in or out or adjust with the master cylinder shaft), steering wheel ( do you have a shaft within a shaft? if so it is only a matter of changing holes for the cross bolt or drilling a new one ) and shifter (almost all have a threaded area that can be turned in or out) can be adjusted to you. Once you are comfortable in a static position, now you can look at all the 'hard" things you are likely to bump up against while at speed and try to lightly pad them. As you've already found, a day in the car will show you anywhere you missed! I had to pad several areas of my car after that first driver's school! Ever notice how many formula car guys wear knee pads? I have some that I turned out not to need as I was able to pad that area in my car, you're welcome to them if needed. If you would like I would be glad to come over and help you with the adjustments. Sometimes it is much easier to get everything adjusted to you when you can just stay in the car and have a person outside the car make adjustments to your position rather than the in and out trial and error method.
As for shifting, the Hewland will never act like a box with syncros. While you want to get as smooth as possible, it is very easy to over worry/over think this aspect of these cars. With seat time in a comfortable position you will get the hang of it and figure out what works best for you. It will become second nature to you, I promise.
Have you removed the 'extra' cross bar brace under the dash board to make more room for your knees? That is almost a requirement on the Reynard these days.
CREW for Jeff 89 Reynard or Flag & Comm.
Sorry guys no internet at home and way to busy at work to catch up. Will catch back up when internet comes back.
Brought to to you via toilet phone at work. Lol.
tmi!
Extra?
Great tips guys. Thank you all very much. I will have to fit myself into the car much better. I admit I spent much more time on the clutch instead of the fitment of the cockpit. It looks like I will have to pour a second seat after I get myself in there and able to work the controls better. But I will need more padding on stuff as I have lost the 25lbs I was going for since I bought the car. What do you guys think... Double sided sticky tape on some foam?
Thanks to CGCOffroad, I had no idea how to "blip" the throttle. I am now practicing left foot braking on my street car. lol. Thats a hard one to get used too. I want to get into second gear earlier so I can cruse around the corners at a faster pace. I was not grinding the gears. It just would grab second, and give the car a bad jolt. I was afraid I would spin or break a drive shaft or two. So I would wait till the car was slow enough to not have that happen. I have yet to 4 wheel push the car yet. However I did push the car hard enough to have the front end push a bit, and also have the back step out some. All I can say is this car seems very predictable, and as soon as I get myself "connected" to it I know I will feel comfortable with what it can do. Wings are new to me too. I will have to learn to lean on them. The diffuser I am not to worried about. Its not pretty now, and I can repair fiberglass easy peasy. It much more fun than repairing a quarter panel.
I am using a gopro with a suction cup mount. Its just that the body is flexible and moves around a bunch. Im sure a strap would help stabilize it. That and the motor revs shake the camera inside the case and thats all you can hear. Camera rattle. With the muffler there is not much to hear anyway. I normally "mix" the song and the track noise. HDS's reynard has a straight pipe on it and its still pretty quiet. So I am not sure what I would pick up with the camera mic anyway. meh... time will tell.
Padding
For around the frame I use pipe insulation held in place by double sided carpet tape and wire ties.
Last edited by hdsporty1988; 06.04.17 at 10:32 AM.
To the future owner of the car. Yes the steering wheel (via the nut n bolt on the steering shaft) is adjustable with three little hole settings. And the shifter is adjustable via the threaded rod it sticks out on. I am sure you will have to put it back to normal as I must have T-rex arms. However I sit way WAY more inside the cockpit now . I am much happier to have my legs not smashed against the dashboard and not be squashed between the roll bar braces.
Time to pour another seat. Also I will be doing another HPDE day and then my first race of the year. Hope to see you guys out there again. It was very nice to meet you people and even more so to sponge hardware, parts, and ideas off you guys. Thanks again!
Great news
Very happy to hear you were able to adjust the car to fit! Look forward to seeing you in a couple of weeks.
Hard as I could, could not find the USB port on the carburetor. So I am off to the interwebs to find a solution to my carburetor dumping large amounts of fuel when engine is off and the gas pedal is applied. Also wanting to check in here to see if anyone of you guys might have had that same problem and what did you do to fix it???? Thanks again to HD for some very nice set of tires!!! I am sure to use the rest of the rubber on them. Of course right after I cord the set I have now.
FLOODING (OVERFLOWING) Fuel overflowing from the carburetor may be caused by a number of issues:
(1) Float/fuel valve incorrectly adjusted
(2) Defective fuel valve
(3) Defective float
(4) Excessive fuel pressure
(A) incorrect or defective fuel pump
(B) clogged or missing tank vent
(5) Cracked housing
Discussing in order:
(1) Make certain that you have the float adjusted to the manufacturer’s original specifications, and make sure you know HOW the manufacturer measured the adjustment. Some manufacturers specify the distance from the float to the casting without the gasket, some with the gasket, some the distance to the fuel level in the bowl at a specified pressure, and Rochester was probably the most creative, often measuring to a “dimple” on the float itself or the float seam. If you buy an aftermarket rebuilding kit, NEVER rely on the generic specification sheets which come in the kits. Check your factory shop manual or the carburetor manufacturer’s manual.
(2) If the fuel valve is defective, replace it.
(3) If the float is brass, check this link: Brassfloats , if a material other than brass, and there is any doubt, replace the float.
(4) A fuel pressure gauge placed right at the carburetor will confirm/deny the presence of too much pressure. However, one should consider the clogged or missing vent. The fuel tank MUST be vented, or no fuel can exit the tank. Many older vehicles were vented through the gasoline cap. Vented caps were obsoleted because of smog emissions regulations. If the tank vent is clogged or missing, normal ambient temperature change will create either a positive pressure or negative pressure (vacuum) on the tank. Some tanks are located close to the exhaust. As the engine warms the hot exhaust heats the fuel in the tank, and can create excessive pressure in the tank.
(5) Cracked carburetor housings are quite rare; in more than 50 years, I have only seen a hand-full, but the issue CAN exist, ESPECIALLY if the “mechanic” feels the necessity of using some form of Teflon (either tape or paste) on a tapered fuel fitting. Teflon is a fabulous lubricant, and will allow anyone to apply excessive torque to the fitting threads and crack the casting.
FUEL LEAK BY THROTTLE SHAFT(S) A common complaint today is fuel dripping out of the throttle body by the throttle shaft AFTER the engine is switched off. While a number of issues may cause this problem, by far the most common issue is the volatility of modern fuel. Mechanical fuel pumps have a check valve which prevents fuel from moving back to the fuel tank. The problem is as follows:
(1) After the engine is switched off, heat from the engine heats the fuel in the fuel line.
(2) The expanding fuel (increased volatility) creates pressure in the fuel line from the pump to the carburetor.
(3) The check valve prevents the fuel backing up through the fuel pump.
(4) The pressure increases to a point the float/fuel valve combination in the carburetor cannot withstand the pressure.
(5) An amount of fuel (usually from a teaspoon to a couple of tablespoons) flows into the fuel bowl of the carburetor.
(6) This raises the fuel level in the bowl above the main discharge nozzle(s).
(7) Fuel flows through the main discharge nozzle(s) and drips onto the throttle plate(s) which is/are closed, and exits out beside the throttle shaft(s) dripping onto the intake.
Possible solutions:
(1) IF POSSIBLE, AVOID ETHANOL LACED FUEL! Sometimes you can buy real gasoline at a marina
(2) Buy the lowest octane name-brand fuel that does not ping or detonate in your engine (the higher grades often have more ethanol)
(3) Install a “vapor return line” (take a look at return lines used on many factory air-conditioned cars)
(4) Learn to live with the issue.
Xmazdatracy for the win
Yes there were more than 2 cars, 5 in class
NICE !! Any shots of the cars at the track?
Was thinking of this thread the other day and wondering how the car was doing
I used to have a shirt that said:Because it does take a village...
and ya gotta start somewhere
Your village called
Their idiot is missing
Carb issues
Car issues are quite often very hard to find.
I spent many weekends in FF and FC trying to "figure out" carb problems.
Best advice I ever got: Send the carb to Sandy at Quicksilver. http://quicksilverraceengines.com/
I have done that twice and when I got the car back from Sandy, car ran great and I never had a carb problem ever gain.
Just sharing. Track time is very valuable. Use it for driving. Let the experts fix your carb.
Aaron
Ok, in this day and age of everyone getting offended take my comments with a grain of salt. I have 5 seconds to loose to get near the track record. And 2.5 to catch the FA that was whizzing around us. It is possible to be quicker than the MC powered FA. Just embarrassing/aggravating/frustrating at the moment.
That said, please enjoy my crappy vid (music might offend older ears).
Congrats again on the win!
Congrats again on the win and for catching my mistake on camera! It will be very tough to catch that Stohr considering the HP advantage of his Hayabusa.
Yes, I was rather shocked to see him basically blow by that Stohr early on. We raced a 90 Reynard against an almost identical Red Stohr in pure D/SR trim out here on the Seattle area for over two years. Jeff could beat him if everything was just perfect and the D/SR wasn't pushing too hard plus he was darn tough to pass if he was in front.
I'm pretty much sitting here trying to figure out why that 90 seems to have such good straight line speed compared to the cars he's running against.
CREW for Jeff 89 Reynard or Flag & Comm.
Stohr
Actually there was another Black Stohr open wheel car running in the FA group that he was referring to driven by the son of the red Stohr that was running in DSR. This was a Midwestern Council of Sports Car Clubs race so some of the SCCA classes get combined for the purposes of this organization. FA includes the normal SCCA Atlantics plus FB and Formula Mazda plus some others. The Red Stohr was having some issues.
Spooge
Is that photo a mirror image? Or are those left hand threads?
Because of either of those is true (but not both!), you've got your safety wire done backwards.
I noticed that too. ill eventually work my way through the car and get everything sorted out. If I haven't touched it it will break. That's the way it has been so far with the few times I have been out w the car.
Great drive and take care of the spooge!!!!
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