Build Thread: Reynard

[Purple Frog]

When its cold at the track, (think Road Atlanta in March) over night I would put a hot lamp aimed at the oil tank and cover the car with the whole car cover. Something like a 400 watt halogen bulb shop light.

Since you are in the north country, it might be an idea.

Cold startups with the proper oil can spike at ~80+ lbs.

That being said... Based on many of your previous comments concerning condition of specific engine parts at purchase time, I would suspect a malfunctioning pressure relief valve on the pump.

or.... you have the wrong drive pulleys installed and you are over spinning the pump...

[Fred Michael]

What is the thickness and brand of your clutch disc?

[Jerry Kehoe]

All of the normal clutch discs, Tilton, AP, Quartermaster are the same thickness at about .104 -.105 thick when new and all are interchangeable. This is for the normal metallic friction discs.
The worn thickness varies depending on the number of plates but basically the entire stack if one,two or three plates is .030 in total.

[xmazdatracy]

What is the thickness and brand of your clutch disc?

Tilton, .10something

Did not have time to remove by-pass valve yesterday. And unfortunately now the season has changed and my work hours go up over 50 per week. I'm thinking I might be a bit slower on doing stuff to the car, but who knows.

And I never got to say thank you to SteveG for sending me these supports!

[racerdad2]

This may be redundant... Splitting the car to check - replace the clutch, pressure plate, resurface flywheel, etc. is easy with the car on the ground. With wheels and tires on, block up the rear of the car at ride height. Simply unbolt the transaxle and roll it back. Replace - repair what's needed and roll the transaxle back on. If you have trouble with your spline tool aligning the clutch and pressure plate you can leave them slightly loose and roll your transaxle forward to align them. Then carefully back it away and properly torque the clutch and pressure plate. I did mine this way in about 90 minutes inside my hauler.

You'll probably wake up to frost on the ground & track at Blackhawk in April and October. I use magnetic block heaters to keep the oil and water warm overnight with the car covered.

Don't be tempted to rev the engine until she warms up. My oil pressure is close to 100+ psi until the oil thins on those cold mornings.

One more thing. Come up to play at BIR ! I'll pay your entry fee. The track is 2.5 miles with wide, smooth asphalt and 13 distinct corners. The track owners are fantastic and you'll get to race against the owner in his FE as a bonus.

My car is in pieces as I wait for new headers, transaxle parts and time to put her back together. I hope to make the April race at Blackhawk and have fun chasing you.

I make a better cat than a mouse.

[xmazdatracy]

Hey great tip about the lack of using a hoist. I did confirm that the clutch tool was as about as tight as the cars input shaft. As I mated the back half and the motor I made sure it came in and out easy like PF said. I must have just rushed bolting down the clutch and pinched the disc the first time(I hope). Also I went with the radius bearing this time to make the clutch no so hard to press. I will report back with what happens. If this is still messed up I think I will just drop it off with someone that knows better.

As far as April I will be there at BlackHawk, but just supporting the guy who bought my last car. I want to make sure its a nice smooth transition. There is not a spot on that car I did not modify, so I don't want him to have any surprises. That and I just cant wait to get back to the track. As far as me I am going to wait for MC's first HPDE day to learn how to drive this thing. I will admit that I finally fixed the loose nut behind the steering wheel on the last car, so maybe it will finally get under 1:20's at BlackHawk.

[xmazdatracy]

I've lost track if you mentioned it before - what is the viscosity and type of oil in the engine during these high oil pressure events?

redline 40W. I am going to try the 10W30 next time and will see what the pressures tell me to do from there.

[DaveW]

redline 40W. I am going to try the 10W30 next time and will see what the pressures tell me to do from there.

That will certainly help - I'm guessing 60-80 psi cold with the 10W30.

[kea]

If you check the Redline 40wt bottle, it lists it as also meeting a 15W40 spec of some sort (I didn't read any further). If your start-up pressure problem was at low engine speeds, I doubt the oil "weight" is the problem.

[DaveW]

If you check the Redline 40wt bottle, it lists it as also meeting a 15W40 spec of some sort (I didn't read any further). If your start-up pressure problem was at low engine speeds, I doubt the oil "weight" is the problem.

For his sake, I hope you're not right...

[old 59]

pm sent.

[BeerBudgetRacing]

redline 40W. I am going to try the 10W30 next time and will see what the pressures tell me to do from there.

When I got my car I monitored/topped the oil for a few practice sessions learning what level was best, then changed to Redline for my first race weekend. Blew the rear main seal the first test run. It makes nice puddles...

Switched back to M15w30 (actually 1/2 M1 and 1/2 M1T4 for the zddp).
Also switched to M1 gear oil too...

NO problems with oil pressure, etc.

Do what Rick or Dave recommend and shelve the redline.

[kea]

For his sake, I hope you're not right...

Me too.
Maybe it will be something simple like in the oil pump !

[HayesCages]

Seems to me that the little spring inside the pump that regulates pressure would work the same no matter what weight oil or what the outside temperature was.
I'd start there.

[racerdad2]

Just an FYI. The Monday Track Days at BIR are open to Open Wheel. Nearly 6 hours of track time for about $325. I realize it's a long row. If you can make it up to BIR, The entry is on me. I'm just trying to entice you to come up and play ! You're going to love driving your Reynard. They're very easy to set up and forgiving. Mine give me a nice 4 wheel drift thru the twisties. You have a very nice ride !

[racerdad2]

Like Lt. Columbo, "Just one more thing." You'll be turning 1:16's with just a few practice laps at BHF. And... We race at BIR on Memorial Day Weekend, Trans Am as support races July 1-2, & Labor Day Weekend.

Hope to C U @ BHF. My Reynard is half blue, half red. E Z to find...

[xmazdatracy]

Well got to start the car up and pressure spiked up to 150 at the very start, and I shut it off. Waited a few moments after looking the car over and tried again. Same thing, and shut it off again. Third time it spiked and fell down to 40 immediately on its own before I had a chance to shut it off. I think there was something stuck somewhere. Now after a good cold nights rest I can start it and it will read 0 for a second or two and pop right up to 40. After the motor warms up I can rev it up and now the needle will bounce at 80psi, and sink back down to 40. Thankfully I bought a gauge that reads up to 160psi so the needle still rests at 0 like it should.

However the clutch still will not disengage. I only tried the rocking method once after letting the car warm up, and it sounded like the gears skipped. The clutch pedal feels good and seems like the clutch is operating, but just will not let go of the disc. I made sure the input shaft went in and out and in very easily this time around, so I am not to sure it is a alignment problem. At this point I think I might just push start and see if it will break free that way. Otherwise I will have to take a break from this.

One idea is the Reynard clutch linkage. I am not so sure where that needs to be. It is not the same as it was since the new MC had a longer shaft. Another idea is in my past experiences the clutch fingers pointed out a touch. This one has the fingers straight.

[DaveW]

The oil pressure issue, as you just said, may be the oil pressure relief sticking. They sometimes get a groove worn into the plunger, or the bore it operates in gets a groove worn in it, causing it to stick.

With all that rust on the flywheel, the disk may be rusted to either the FW or PP.

[kea]

[QUOTE=xmazdatracy;533964]
One idea is the Reynard clutch linkage. I am not so sure where that needs to be. It is not the same as it was since the new MC had a longer shaft. [IMG]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/

Install the shorter clutch master cylinder push-rod from the old master or shorten the new one to that length.

[racerdad2]

Just a thought on engine start. Master on, Ignition off. Crank engine until you see oil pressure, then flip on the ignition. This is how I start mine. May not be necessary, but prevents dry starts. May help the engine live a bit longer. You may want to buy a new clutch and pressure plate from Keith. That solved my clutch issues.

Also, the foot box is very small. I have to wear narrow size 9 shoes so I can grab just one pedal at a time. My size 11 shoes work well in the Miata and SRF. Just don't fit in the Reynard.

And remind yourself that the clutch pedal is Not a dead pedal. I toasted my first clutch by not installing a heel stop and not keeping my left foot over the brake pedal. As a kart racer, I got used to left foot braking and suck at heel - toe.

[xmazdatracy]

Install the shorter clutch master cylinder push-rod from the old master or shorten the new one to that length.

Damn just when I thought I was done with leaking fluids. Is there any proper setup guides or am I stuck looking at my old photos?

[xmazdatracy]

Just a thought on engine start. Master on, Ignition off. Crank engine until you see oil pressure, then flip on the ignition. This is how I start mine. May not be necessary, but prevents dry starts. May help the engine live a bit longer. You may want to buy a new clutch and pressure plate from Keith. That solved my clutch issues.

Also, the foot box is very small. I have to wear narrow size 9 shoes so I can grab just one pedal at a time. My size 11 shoes work well in the Miata and SRF. Just don't fit in the Reynard.

And remind yourself that the clutch pedal is Not a dead pedal. I toasted my first clutch by not installing a heel stop and not keeping my left foot over the brake pedal. As a kart racer, I got used to left foot braking and suck at heel - toe.

Forgot about that start up thing. I have my car wired to do just that. Also yes I do have size 9 shoes to. Thanks for the tip to keep my foot of the pedal. Just can't do the new clutch at the moment.

[xmazdatracy]

So what lb foam is the best for making a seat? 2,3,6,8? Pegasus just lists psi but everywhere else list the density by lbs.

[Bob Wright]

bead seat or Speed Seat. Two part foam is quick, but not durable.

[racerdad2]

Bead seats are more expensive but offer far better protection. However, since you're doing this yourself, buy some two part foam and use it for your first "practice" seat. Move up to a bead seat when the budget allows. A foam seat is good for one impact. The head seat offers far better protection for multiple impacts.

Any luck on the clutch ?

[xmazdatracy]

I will be doing a speed seat (if the clutch comes out ok) later this year. I just want to do a foam seat in the mean time so I can take this car out and try and break the clutch loose in a big parking lot. The streets in my hood have massive expansion cracks that I dont think this car could come out of alive.

I guess if foam seats suck that bad then I will just buy the cheapest stuff from amazon. And try and get the speed seat as soon as I can. Thankfully speed seat is not that far from me and I can hopefully drive up there and get that done.

[Bob Wright]

uugh..."breaking the clutch loose" in a parking lot is maybe not the best idea. If its put in right, it will work; if wrong, it will likely break something or simply not work. Either way, you have to find the smoking gun and fix it.

[2BWise]

Why don't you simply disassemble the clutch? If you haven't already had the engine and bellhousing apart it would likely to prudent to take a peak in there anyways. With the aluminum bellhousing I'd want to inspect all the threads to makes sure all the mounting holes are in good condition. It's not uncommon to have them strip out.

[xmazdatracy]

90 Reynard
Quote:
Originally Posted by rickb99
OMG!!

You are so right.. LOL. I had so much trouble getting that lever system adjusted I'm shocked i forgot, what a mess.

The "trick" was, you needed to use a short push-rod going into the master cylinder. After that it was easy.
__________________
Keith
Averill Racing Stuff, Inc.
www.racing-stuff.com
248-585-9139

[Fred Michael]

Does this mean you got the clutch to release when you step on the pedal?

[hdsporty1988]

Does this mean you got the clutch to release when you step on the pedal?

????

[xmazdatracy]

in the mids of a 93hr work week. I get back when I get a chance to do so.

[racerdad2]

in the mids of a 93hr work week. I get back when I get a chance to do so.

Slacker

[Steve Demeter]

93 hours of work. NO wonder the car is not progressing like it did when this thread started.

[racerdad2]

For me, this is the best seat kit, EIS from Motorsports Southwest. SFI rated for multiple impacts and.... Kudos on your work ethic... Self Reliance. Personal Accountability. Paying Your Own Way. Very Admirable....

[Rick Kirchner]

If you dig around in my old posts you'll find my process for making bead seats from stuff you can buy at the hobby store/aircraft spruce. You can make three for the price of a pro kit and in my experience, if it's the first time you've made a seat you are going to end up making another....

[DaveW]

If you dig around in my old posts you'll find my process for making bead seats from stuff you can buy at the hobby store/aircraft spruce. You can make three for the price of a pro kit and in my experience, if it's the first time you've made a seat you are going to end up making another....

I'll likely get flamed for this, but...

Citation and I poured mine using regular 2-part rigid foam just before we first tested my 95SF at Putnam Park a month before the Runoffs in 1994. We covered it with duct tape, and believe it or not, I'm still using it. It has functioned perfectly for 22 years and through at least 3 major wrecks w/o disintegrating or causing any back issues.

YMMV.

[Charles Warner]

That's what I used for years with no deterioration. I did go to the bead seat when I needed a longer seat for the Shadow as it is easier to make a seat in multiple parts with beads.

[Jerry Kehoe]

If you pour a regular foam seat you can simply preserve it by putting on a few light layers of glass using epoxy resin so you don't dissolve the foam and then if you want glue on a cover of nomex cloth to make it look like you knew what you were doing.

[Rick Kirchner]

on my bead seat I covered it with some lingerie weight Kevlar to keep it together. It's only 1-2 beads thick in the middle of the back.

On my foam seats I always sanded them down a eighth of an inch in all directions (what a PITA - the foam produces shards like little razor blades for the eyes!) and then had them covered with Rhino Liner.