I bought the hand-crank fuel pump...seemed expensive.....but it works great!!!! Can also retract fuel by turning it counter-clockwise. I often fill with my Reynard body on...
I bought the hand-crank fuel pump...seemed expensive.....but it works great!!!! Can also retract fuel by turning it counter-clockwise. I often fill with my Reynard body on...
We almost ALWAYS removed the rear engine cover every time off the track which made it easy to fill the fuel cell. Also had a manual pump to move the fuel so there was no tipping or spilling gas cans over the engine.
We had one car with points and condenser and the other with MSD. Really was no difference in performance.
BRUCE:
How the hell did you get to the filler neck on the Reynard without removing the engine cover??
CREW for Jeff 89 Reynard or Flag & Comm.
I just reach down there, and undue the cap...only problem comes when I drop it!!!!! The fuel hose is about 3 ft long....as I said earlier, I bought one of those hand-pumps to fill with. The hose is clear, and its easy not to overfill.... I see the snow out there...hows it going? I talk of my trip out there often!!!! Bruce
Aren't SCCA compliant fuel cells required to have a check valve?Originally Posted by DaveW
I am with Bruce on the dual direction hand crank pump. I whined and sniveled for 3 months about the price of that pump and a jug. Finally cracked my wallet and just bought it. I have tried numerous fueling methods and this is the best I have come across.
Ha ha... I guess thats why I cant sell it here on apexspeed. Guess I will have to list it on ebay. Yeah I did get rid of it. Here is what the new firewall looks like from the back. Yup you guessed it. I went with a switched negative so I can start the car with only the jump battery.
There is no way I can "reach down". The upper bodywork/cowl (tunnel hull boat terminology) is a very tight fit up against the top of the firewall. BUT I totally forgot about the fueling pump. When I would fuel the last car the racing jugs ALWAYS dripped out the back of em. Made my shoe smell like gas for days if I didnt remember to step out of the way. Thanks guys! There is a lot on my mind as I hope for a pre-season completion.
That is correct. The normal formula-car fuel cells have the filler neck directly on the cell. The issue is, IMO, what is meant by "on the fuel cell."
I would think any one-piece filler neck directly attached to the cell would be technically legal, but if it were long, it would not necessarily be safe. Of course, a check valve in a long one piece filler neck might be ripped off along with the filler neck.
If the filler neck were connected by a rubber hose to the cell, then the check valve requirement makes perfect sense.
Dave Weitzenhof
"Reach down where"? The body work fits snug up to the aft cockpit fire wall and there aren't any holes in it accept the air intake to the carb which fits tight to the carb.
Where do you visit out here?
CREW for Jeff 89 Reynard or Flag & Comm.
Well , my body work has enough room to slip my arm through the gap....The main section IS an original piece, so it may have a different fit...Well I'm referring to my trip to buy your cars!!! Bruce
Yellow is for recall, the black and white I would guess for the tach trim light, grey??? Guess will never know. TA8 instructions gone the way of the dodo bird.
Crappy pic but progress...
OMG! Didn't recognize the name, Bruce. In the end which car did you keep and which did you sell?? Cannot imagine where the gap is you're getting a hand and filler hose from the pump through.
CREW for Jeff 89 Reynard or Flag & Comm.
I bought the '90 from Bruce. It was all black #36 when I got it. Not sure where the other one ended up or if he still has it.
The other car is being rebuilt as we speak, by a racer here at Waterford Hills......The car Bill bought is here in the midwest (I believe).......Rick....it was quite a thrill, both towing through the mountains (in snow), and adding some anti-freeze, and starting the car at the base of Devils Tower, worried about the unusually cold temps. It was just us, some deer, and the spirits!!!!! We did some sight-seeing on the way home.... O.K.......enough thread hi-jack...
As I install new hoses for the radiators I cannot see how I would be able to fit the hoses in between the frame and engine (would have to cross) to make them feed the radiators from the bottom. I think it would be easier to install "T's" and run them parallel.
OR
Just run them as they where and feed the radiators from the top and run the risk of having trapped air in them. I can see now from a earlier post that if I left the heater core pipe on the pump I could fill the system from there. Now I have to back fill and pray that the pump does not have cavitation.
On my Reynards with that layout I welded bungs in the top of both rads. Then drilled a small hole in the top of the side pod. I could stick a socket down in the hole and bleed air out of the top of the rads. Easy to check in a few minutes.
If I needed to do that, if possible, I would run ~3/16" OD bleed tubes from those holes to the header tank. Then the system would be self-bleeding so there would be no air trapped either initially or from running low on coolant.
Dave Weitzenhof
If you do that install a filter somewhere to catch all the gunk
that will plug those lines.
Lawrence Hayes
Hayes Cages, LLC
Sagle, ID.
I'd rather run larger bleed tubes than run a filter, which, IMO, would restrict flow even if it didn't catch anything, and if it did, it would need to be cleaned, adding to maintenance. I mentioned 3/16" OD because I didn't want excessive coolant short-circuiting the coolant flow path. If you are worried about crud blocking them, run 1/4" OD.
Dave Weitzenhof
Only reason I mentioned it was because we've had to blow those bleed lines out because they've got plugged with crud.
Lawrence Hayes
Hayes Cages, LLC
Sagle, ID.
No doubt that could happen, but I've not had it happen to me even though I have always had long bleeder lines. On my Citation Zetec, I have 2, one from the rear head outlet and one from the top of the cross-over tube which connects to the top of each radiator.
This is the best bleeding and running cooling system I've ever had on any vehicle including my older street vehicles. Fill it, run it once until the thermostat opens, let it cool, refill the cup or so it needs, and it's full. And it loses zero coolant during the season.
Dave Weitzenhof
Good news is I threw the last piece that had black mold on it out yesterday. Also more progress...
Dave, do you have a picture I can see that bleeder system? I would not mind drilling and tapping a pipe, but I would be very nervous drilling a radiator and getting metal shavings in the coolant system.
Thanks again for the help guys, there is so much more to learn about these cars, but this one in particular seems to be a pretty neat one.
No, I don't have any useful pictures. But conceptually it's very simple. The water flow goes from the thermostat housing on the rear top of the engine, then right and down to an oil-water heat exchanger, then to the bottom-front of the RH radiator, then from the top rear of the RH radiator through a cross-tube (discussed below), to the top rear of the LH radiator, and out the bottom front of the LH radiator to the WP, which is on the left-front of the engine. The top of the header tank has an 18-psi radiator cap and coolant recovery hose to the coolant recovery bottle, which rarely gets anything in it.
There is 1 bleed off of the rear top of the engine (thermostat housing, which for the Pinto is in the front and is probably already directly connected to the header tank), and 1 off the cross pipe between the rear top of the 2 radiators. The cross tube is slightly raised in the middle where the bleeder goes in. Both of these bleeders go to the header tank, which is the highest point in the system.
Bottom line, any point in the system that could trap air should have and in my case has a bleed or direct vent to the header tank. That's what you should aim for.
Last edited by DaveW; 02.17.17 at 12:21 PM.
Dave Weitzenhof
OK, as its 70* in febuary in Chicago I have to break from working on the car to work on the tow rig. While I fix that I got a few more simple questions...
1) can I just use regular fuel hose? Why the SS lines for what 6psi?
2) 5/16 right?
3) what tire pressure do you guys start off with?
4) is it ok to leave the car on the ground, or does it have to be up on those stands all the time except for at the track?
Thanks! Im off to get my dose of ford tetanus.
It's a SCCA requirement if they go through the driver compartment. That goes for vent lines as well.
Recommended start pressures (cold) are 16 rear and 18 front (I assume we are talking Reynard?). Should gain about 2 pounds over the course of an on track session........3) what tire pressure do you guys start off with?
4) is it ok to leave the car on the ground, or does it have to be up on those stands all the time except for at the track?.
NO, does not have to be up on stands when off the track unless you're doing suspension adjustments.
CREW for Jeff 89 Reynard or Flag & Comm.
uhhhh....depends on the tires.....
Hoosier, Avon, American Racer
Ah... tire pressures.
It is an art form.
I looked over a few years of notes when running a Reynard with Hoosier bias tires.
Cold pressures were all over the map.
The goal was to not be over 19 to 20 hot.
When the car was sorted and the weather was normal we would start with 15 all around.
Cold days with long straights, maybe higher.
Used tires usually take a bit more air. The thinner the rubber pad, the less it holds in heat.
Softer pressures can cause the carcass to flex more and thus build heat. Too soft and the footprint will distort.
Tire pressures also effect spring rate.
If i was coaching you at your first sessions, I'd start you at 15 square. After you do some hard laps I'd call you in and check pressures on pit lane. Then adjust accordingly and send you out again.
We'd set ride height so it would just "nick" a few places on the track. That would mean that on the out lap on cold tires the rub strips would be talking you you a lot of places until the tires warmed up.
Remember, if it was easy, everybody would be doing it.
To quote PF
Carb Jets:
The secondaries should be mechanically operated. This means that any time you are at full throttle (and this will be 95% of the time), both the primary and secondary will be open. If you are seeing a discontinuity in the EGT's, that may be due to the auxiliary enrichment tubes (put in by various engine builders to modify the fuel distribution) starting their flow with a slight delay - this is normal.
The main jets are located in the bottom of the float bowl. To change them you remove the top of the carb (6 screws) -- if you are careful not to tear the gasket, it can be reused. You will probably have different jets for the primary & secondary venturi -- so be careful to note what size is currently used for each one. A "one jet leaner" usually mean a differnence of 5 (i.e. change a 175 to a 170 - smaller numbers are leaner).
Your carb also has air corrector jets (aka A/C) -- you also remove the carb top to access these -- but they are located on the upward face of the carb body. Again, primary and secondary values may be different. The air correctors adjust the mixture just at the high flows (i.e. high RPMs) -- three steps of A/C jets is about the same as one step of main jets. A larger A/C jet will make the mixture leaner, and a smaller one will make it richer.
Finally, you will find idle jets on the side of the carbs in the main body, just below the top. You unscrew the holder, and the jet sits in that. Watch out not to lose the rubber o-ring under the jet holder. Idle jets are hardly ever changed, but you should pull them out to make sure a piece of debris hasn't clogged the very small orifice.
The mixture screw located near the base of the carb will adjust the mixture at idle. With the engine running at idle (usually 900 - 1000 RPMs), screw it in until the engine starts to run rough, then back it out again until the engine again begins to sound a bit rough -- at that point, screw it back in 1/4 to 1/2 turn and you're all set -- a smooth running engine.
DaveW’s jets at one time when he had a Pinto were:
JET PRI SEC
AIR 200 140
FUEL 135 165
(FOR AVGAS, ~55F)
Rollin Butler’s starting point.:
JET PRI SEC
Air 175 160
Fuel 145 155
Primary air is always bigger.
Secondary fuel is always bigger.
From: Dave Weitzenhof
1. The primary jets have more effect on cyl 2 & 3 than on cyl 1 & 4. The secondaries have more effect on 1 & 4 than on 2 & 3. Therefore, if 2 & 3 are rich compared to 1 & 4 (plug check after clean-cut, etc.), lean primaries or richen secondaries, and vice-versa.
2. A long time ago, before the widespread use of EGT sensors, I very successfully used a seat-of-the-pants trackside method of setting the over-all degree of richness. I would warm up the engine to operating temp, and then immediately run it to ~3000 rpm, let the rpm stabilize, and then open the throttle wide open for ~1 second. If the engine died or hesitated for more than ~1/2 second, the jets were too lean and needed to be richened. If the engine just barely hesitated and then revved cleanly, the jets were just right. If it picked up smoothly with no hesitation, the jets were too rich. All of this assumes no major carb or other engine problems. This really did work quite well.
This is the opposite of what I would suggest. It partly depends on what your spring and bar rates are, but I could never start the fronts that high. My target with the Reynard was 19 hot in the front and 20 hot in the rear. That usually meant starting around 16/17 or 17/18 cold depending on the ambient and track temps. It is much easier to start too high with these tires. There is a significant performance fall off if you start them too low. The Hoosiers don't seem as sensitive to this as the Goodyears were but that floor was right around 15psi. I wouldn't suggest trying to go any lower than that.
Fuel Pumps
If you have any plans of swapping over to an electric fuel pump, I will share some of my most recent findings. From an engine builder: 'fuel pressure for the carb is 3.5 to 4.5 psi.' I received this info after I filled the air intake and carb COMPLETELY with fuel. What a mess.
NAPA carries a Carter pump that puts out 4.0 psi. This is certainly a preferred model than the Spectra pump I had purchased that put out 7.0 - 9.0 psi. I ended up reseating the mechanical pump and that has worked out fine. Lesson to this post is that fuel pressure to the carb does matter.
We have the Carter pump on our FC. It's been flawless for 5 years.
Lawrence Hayes
Hayes Cages, LLC
Sagle, ID.
Also to the electric fuel pump - you can get ones that have a low enough pressure for the carb, but then won't flow enough volume to keep up with WOT. A few seconds of 4th gear was enough to drop the level enough that the car would sputter. Stock mechanical pump fixed that.
Gary
Gary Tholl
#24 BlurredVisionRacing
This one? Any pics of your Reynard with the electric fuel pump installed?
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/crt-p60504/overview/
Also if this is a 90 should not the SN be something like 90 SF 001, and not the 01 SF 001 it says in the log book and Canadian vin plate?????? I am pretty sure its a 90. I measured the frame parts like Avril told me about and they are indeed 1".
Also, sorry for no pics. I have been staying up late and working 10+ hours on the car on my days off. I am pretty tired and my phone is my radio and my camera. So when I get on a roll I just keep on rolling. But I need a break, and I will snap some progress pics while I work on my daily driver. Which is literally rusting apart.
Ours is a Carter E1038-101A.
Lawrence Hayes
Hayes Cages, LLC
Sagle, ID.
Fuel Pump
As seen on Bruce MacDonalds 88 Reynard.
I've used the little facet pumps for years. No regulator, and they keep up with WOT just fine. I made a plate to go over the original location and mounted the electric pump there, on a couple of vibration isolators. However, on the metal pumps the ears will eventually break off even with those precautions.
Facet came out with their Posiflow line of plastic pumps and I've been using the same one for about 5 years now. Much more durable than the metal ones. A bit better from a packaging standpoint too.
look for # 60106
*Start rant*
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...asp?RecID=5450
$160
http://www.harborfreight.com/multi-u...ump-63144.html
$6
That has to stop. If you want more cars on the track, then stop this. Heck you can get a 12V powered one from northern tool for $19. I am sorry I dont own my own business, I dont have a law firm, I am not a doctor, I am not a trust fund baby, I did not develop software. Stop it. This right here is why I will never ever be a member of spoiled children crashing automobiles. Dont buy this. Boycott it. Unless you want this to be a one percenter only sport. Otherwise you need to drop this belief.
*end rant*
Still a up hill battle. Anything I did not replace or check has failed slowing me down considerably. I hope when I frame off this thing in the future it will go better now that it has had someone go through it.
Now I know why Jeremy said it squirted coolant from the water pump. I guess I should have saved the old pump even though the pulley and shaft were destroyed. No gasket inside or out, and not even RTV (unless it some how dissolves with time). It is pretty corroded inside, I wonder if I can buy a new one from racing stuff on monday? And yes two random different bolts like absolutely everything else in this car. Nothing beats walking back to the tool box five times to take off one part.
So I wanted to do the parallel radiators, but could not find a appropriate "y" to split the water flow. So... I went with the series, but in fear of trapped air I pushed water in the bottom of both and sucked from the top of both. I hope this works otherwise I think I will be going with PF's bung theory in the radiators. Went with oil cooler per Averill's advise about the old radiator pods and the lack of oil swirl pot in the oil tank cover.
Nice new safe crush box. I stand all day at work. So I need my feet for work. Also I found the starter did not line up at all. So I spent some time killing the battery as I found the sweet spot. Also went with the droop limiter. Cant beat hard data on the performance with using it. (pod preview)
Think its ready for the vin plate now.
Master Switch
Do you have more than one master switch? In an emergency the safety crew might have a hard time locating the master switch with all those stickers on the fire wall. Not to mention if you're upside down.
Ha ha, yeah I thought about that. I was looking on the internet for one of the round on off master switch stickers. I think that might help out. But no. Just the one.
The off sticker should be on the outside of the roll hoop so the workers can see it instantly
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