Build Thread: Reynard

[xmazdatracy]

Welcome to the old days.

Lol, ok I am going to take that as I did it right.

Setting timing is rev it up past 4K and listen for it?

[HayesCages]

A lot of chassis have the timing mark on the flywheel. Larger diameter = more accurate timing.

[Purple Frog]

Hum.... i seem to remember the pointer on the cam gear being at the top, not bottom...
I also seem to remember we only advanced the cam or retarded it about 3 degrees either way, depending on the track, using offset keys.

Where is DaveW when we need him?

[DanW]

This dizzy stuff is new to me. I normally just plug the laptop in and do everything from there...

If you had points and condenser, we would teach you how to set initial static timing with a Zig-Zag rolling paper....

[xmazdatracy]

well while I am getting ready to start plumbing this thing, I was wondering about tire sizes.

I keep reading that FC is referred to as having 6 and 8 inch tires. But is that like a rule? On the car now I have 7 and 9 inch tires. Tax season (tire fund) is coming up and I will be purchasing tires (used) and everyone here is pretty hit or miss on tire sizes... Without messing up the suspension set up that is on the car from jrock how do I find these sized tires???

Also arms up (local FC prep shop) only uses radial now. So no more take offs from them. As I was probing into the world of formula there where quite a few MC drivers that would run tires almost all season, but on here it seems people would only run tires for a day. I am lost in the bias of perceived value on take offs...

Please all who use tires on their race car chime in.

[HayesCages]

6 and 8 inch rims are the rule for FC. AFAIK you can use whatever size tire on them but most use the 7 and 9 inch combination.
Radials are spec. tire in some groups. Some older chassis don't have the adjustment range to set the camber where required.
New tires = consistently faster lap times = higher cost. Few can run at the front on someone's take-offs. Not saying it hasn't been done though.

[2BWise]

The most common size is 7" in the front and 8" in the rear. The 9" is pretty much overkill on these cars. The wheel sizes are regulated but there are a few sizing options out there. The 8" and 9" tires have different diameters too so its not as simple as switching between the two as it will affect your gearing.

There's still a takeoff source thru John Berget Tire. Cost is about a third on buying new. Overall, I've had pretty good luck with takeoffs from him.

[rickb99]

......There's still a takeoff source thru John Berget Tire. Cost is about a third on buying new. Overall, I've had pretty good luck with takeoffs from him.

Used John regularly for 3 years with no problems. At the time it was $280 for four tires delivered to my front door. With hard driving they were good for a weekend with maybe a little left over for one more practice. Was with 40 minute practices two runs on Saturday and one on Sunday, 40 minute qualifications one run per weekend on Saturday and 40 minute races one on Sunday.

[Steve Demeter]

Third used tires from John!!

Have used him for years. Never got a bummer.

Doesn't get much better than that.

[fmsports]

I've only ever used take-offs. I've never had an issue with John's tires.

[xmazdatracy]

[Purple Frog]

Look at the bead rollers Eastwood sells.

Manual units really require two people to do good work. Some rig electric motors with foot pedals to the manual units.

YMMV

[SteveG]

If you have just 1 size of tube to bead, the Earl's EZ beader is great. I've got one for 1.25" tubing, takes about 2 minutes to bead an aluminum tube.

Steve

[HayesCages]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JVDUM2ZxoW0

lol...

What material are you wanting to roll?

[BeerBudgetRacing]

Here's one better than Mr Hayes' suggestion. More work but better...

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=51655

[xmazdatracy]

If you have just 1 size of tube to bead, the Earl's EZ beader is great. I've got one for 1.25" tubing, takes about 2 minutes to bead an aluminum tube.

Steve

You have? I cant find anyone who likes that thing, but for 82 bucks it seems the cheapest tool to get. If you can vouch for the thing Ill get it. Otherwise I am going to buy the jeggs one for 131 and turn around and sell it on ebay.

On 247 mazda forum they would pass around tools like this. I wish this place would too.

[OneWayOut]

...bead rollers...

And no machine/weld shop in the entire Chicagoland area has one. Trust me, I've checked.

Half the people I asked didn't even know what a bead roller is.

[HayesCages]

Happy to send ours for you to use. Promise to send back :-) Pay shipping both ways.

You have? I cant find anyone who likes that thing, but for 82 bucks it seems the cheapest tool to get. If you can vouch for the thing Ill get it. Otherwise I am going to buy the jeggs one for 131 and turn around and sell it on ebay.

On 247 mazda forum they would pass around tools like this. I wish this place would too.

[SteveG]

You have? I cant find anyone who likes that thing, but for 82 bucks it seems the cheapest tool to get. If you can vouch for the thing Ill get it. Otherwise I am going to buy the jeggs one for 131 and turn around and sell it on ebay.

On 247 mazda forum they would pass around tools like this. I wish this place would too.

I've never had a problem with mine on aluminum tube...
You can borrow mine if you want, you pay shipping both ways.

Steve

[BeerBudgetRacing]

Best offers you'll get all day...

[john f]

And no machine/weld shop in the entire Chicagoland area has one. Trust me, I've checked.

Half the people I asked didn't even know what a bead roller is.

If you consider Mukwonago, Wi. part of the Chicagoland area I have both a bead roller and
a beader for tubing. You're welcome to come up and use it.

john f

[HayesCages]

That close to Lake Wobegon?

[DanW]

That close to Lake Wobegon?

Umm, no. Wobegon is in Minnesota. From the main highway, turn left at the Craig's Red Owl, then right after the Lutheran church.

[Numbskull XIV]

An example of a proper rebuild of an 87 Reynard currently be done somewhere south of Atlanta.

Yep I recognize that car. It stares at me all the time; when I enter work and when I leave... Everyday

[DaveW]

Hum.... i seem to remember the pointer on the cam gear being at the top, not bottom...
I also seem to remember we only advanced the cam or retarded it about 3 degrees either way, depending on the track, using offset keys.

Where is DaveW when we need him?

Is there a question here?

[xmazdatracy]

Is there a question here?

haha, in post 239 (linear style) I was hoping someone would let me know if the pictures of my timming marks are right. But I pretty sure its right.

[xmazdatracy]

Some nice goodies from a trip to Milwaukee!

[lenhart05]

Yeah, those tires look good also.

[hdsporty1988]

Personally I would have brought back Spotted Cow

[xmazdatracy]

Racetech wiring
Red wire, 12V power feed, must be through the ignition switch. Tach must be switched on and off via this switch
Blue wire, Input signal, from CD output or negative terminal on coil
Yellow wire, Tell Tale Sign, Connected to one terminal of a push button switch. The other terminal on the switch goes to ground.
Green Wire, Atach to a good ground point on the chassis.
Keith
__________________
Keith
Averill Racing Stuff, Inc.
www.racing-stuff.com
248-585-9139

Thanks Keith!

[xmazdatracy]

http://www.pertronix.com/docs/instru...heets/1141.pdf

Anyone run a resistor?

[Rick Kirchner]

blue coil - no resistor, black coil - resistor

[xmazdatracy]

Cool thanks for the tip!. Since I pulled the MSD I just ordered up a pentronix rev limiter.

Anyone run these anywhere besides the firewall?

[Rick Kirchner]

Three considerations in mounting:

1) don't subject it to a lot of heat
2) don't subject it to a lot of vibration
3) mount it on the other side form where your radio and instrumentation harness is located.

The hardest thing to do if it's not mounted inside the cockpit is #1, and if it is in the cockpit then you usually have issues with #3....

[xmazdatracy]

Dang. A way from the wire harness. Thats going to be hard.

Welp I guess I will post some progress photos despite some negative feedback. If you would please ignore the giant elephant in the room here they are.











One last question... if I may (I think this is becoming a lot less a thread in a community and more of a blog), in this picture you can see the filler neck for the fuel cell is pretty low. Can I weld on a length of pipe and have that much closer to the top of the body work, or does it have to stay that low down?

[2BWise]

Just use a long funnel. I've almost exclusively filled any of my cars with the bodywork off. There's enough things you'll want to look over between sessions that there is no reason you should want to fill the tank while the bodywork is on.

[BruceRace]

Might check the clearance between the front "spider" engine mount , and that MSD....it's pretty tight up there. If it was me (and I did)...go back to points /condenser....simple , easy to change , easy to diagnose.......My .02......

[Rick Kirchner]

Just toss the MSD......

[DaveW]

One last question... if I may (I think this is becoming a lot less a thread in a community and more of a blog), in this picture you can see the filler neck for the fuel cell is pretty low. Can I weld on a length of pipe and have that much closer to the top of the body work, or does it have to stay that low down?

I'd avoid extending the filler neck. The longer it is, the more likely it is to be damaged or torn out in an accident. I agree with the long funnel approach. My fill opening is up fairly high, but inaccessible with a normal funnel. So I use a funnel that has an extension with 3 welded pieces changing direction twice. That allows me to fill from outside, so if I spill, it doesn't wind up inside the car.

[JHerscher]

Another in agreement with tossing the MSD and using points/condenser.

Easy to diagnose and fix, plus they are inexpensive, small space requirement spares.