Build Thread: Reynard

[xmazdatracy]

Well found lots of stuff on Hewland but nothing on the Reynard. I did not want to take the side plate off with it upright, but I feel that that piece laying in there is some type of splash guard that presses into the input shaft hole. So I will need to do that before I put the shaft back in.

My throw out bearing is stuck on the shaft tube and will have to press it off. I will be replacing it. Its pretty noisy/grindy and I know it could still be used, but I will be keeping this car for a long time and want to do stuff right.



But I am glad that I have taken out the input tube since I found the random part in the diff housing, and also the sludge...


This job is not hard to do, I grabbed my bearing puller and was able to get the clutch tube and the throw out bearing out with ease (bearing is stuck onto the tube). And then affixed the bearing puller on the input shaft and took a long crow bar (mechanics best-friend) and that popped out with some effort.


Now I hope these o-rings are correct as the three o-rings for the outside all seem to be the same size, but on the tube the rear sealing area seems to be a bit smaller in diameter than the two front.

EDIT: Yes after actually doing it the o-ring kit fits perfect. The o-rings up by the clutch are tighter for I would assume the hydraulic pressures, and the o-ring back by the diff still fits nice and tight. I was worried because the old ones where falling off from I would assume from age. I took the shaft out to make life easier, but you dont have too.



But I am positive I will be kept busy until I can call Averill Monday. As every step I take I find a new stripped bolt or poorly executed helicoil.

[Purple Frog]

I noticed your engine is painted gray. 15 years ago that usually meant it was a Dixon engine. Some Dixon motors had the centrifical advance in the distributor locked solid. Then the engine was timed for max advance. It made for very hard starting in cold weather. Sometimes even "kicking back", which tore up starters.

I always ran with an active advancing distributor. With a timing light you can set full advance around 3000 rpm,

YMMV

[xmazdatracy]

I noticed your engine is painted gray. 15 years ago that usually meant it was a Dixon engine. Some Dixon motors had the centrifical advance in the distributor locked solid. Then the engine was timed for max advance. It made for very hard starting in cold weather. Sometimes even "kicking back", which tore up starters.

I always ran with an active advancing distributor. With a timing light you can set full advance around 3000 rpm,

YMMV

After that discussion about ignition I totally interrupted, and some research I will be switching this cars ignition. I want to have a easy starting car that is very reliable. I like to bench race after the race and be social, not hunt down gremlins all night before the next mornings practice. Also this car was sold to Jeremy as a "0 hour Ivey engine"

That tear down is coming up...

[Purple Frog]

I'm not familiar with what color Ivy paints engines. Someone will chime in. or you can search this site.

I wouldn't tear apart a $9,000 engine if it truly is fresh. I'd call the builder. The builders stamp the head and block with their ID numbers. Not hard to research. I have found the builders to freely tell what they did on the last trip through their shop.

[DanW]

I'm not familiar with what color Ivy paints engines. Someone will chime in. or you can search this site.

I wouldn't tear apart a $9,000 engine if it truly is fresh. I'd call the builder. The builders stamp the head and block with their ID numbers. Not hard to research. I have found the builders to freely tell what they did on the last trip through their shop.

Froggie,

Jay paints his engines a maroon color. About the same color of the logo on the company web page.

http://iveyengines.com/index.htm

[BruceRace]

My throwout bearing has always been "Locktighted" on the aluminum sleeve....heat it up...pull it off....I replace every time the engine is out.... YES Ivey engines are maroon......Bruce

[xmazdatracy]

NOTE: there are two sleeves on the back of the side cover where it mounts to the rear main.

After I figured that I found this little guy hanging out just waiting to give me a DNF.



Seems it was glued into place.



I will first peer into the motor before I go nuts, but from the looks of the out side it was not professionally built. Also Jeremy only put two practice sessions in before the water pump went... so.... yeah.

[xmazdatracy]

This place is full of info!

http://beltpalace.com

Edit: this place, as in Apexspeed... Sorry I read this after I posted and it looked like I meant the link.

[xmazdatracy]

Also this is everywhere but I would like to post this in my thread too.

http://www.reynardowners.com/pubs/88...d_tech_man.pdf

It has essential torque numbers that have clearly been ignored before me. But rest assured whom ever buys/gets the car after me that I use them with one of these. Not to mention me fixing of all the striped bolts n nuts as I go.



Also I guess hylomar would make sense if you are removing the side plate every race or two, but I dont plan on that so I used RTV ultra on reassembly.

[xmazdatracy]

Layshaft. It has a up and down orientation.


And the input shaft back in place. Notice there is some residual glue left from some one gluing in that piece that does not belong in there. There is a seal inside the cylinder up against the input shaft itself and the seal I just changed on the outside against the Reynard case. No need for anything else. If its leaking, then you need to replace those two.

[BeerBudgetRacing]

My throw out bearing is stuck on the shaft tube and will have to press it off. I will be replacing it.

Whenever I have something like this, I tend to get the dremel out and cut most of the way through the race. Once a good slot is cut, generally prying in the slot with a big screwdriver will snap the stuck part. Fast and effective with less risk to the part I'm saving.

[xmazdatracy]

I know this thing is older than my last race car I bought new, but what goes wrong with these things? This looks OK and the foam in the inside looks like its in good shape, so who mandates that this thing needs to be changed every 5 years? And how can they know, I mean its under the seat inside a aluminum cover... Oh and its 15 years old.

[kea]

The problem with fuel cells that need replacing are,
1) they leak
2) the foam inside starts to crumble and ends up in the fuel pump/carb.

The leak can be check by placing the cell on some paper and fill it. Does the paper show signs of seepage/leak.
Some leaking is from age or wear on something it rubs on in the cell area, others are from someone missing their mark when operating a drill.

The foam is another problem.
The factory cells did not have an access panel to allow you to get inside and replace the foam.

[BruceRace]

It's easy to replace it now......no fun later

[Purple Frog]

I know of no mandate to change them.
I have raced with some that are 20 years old.

[xmazdatracy]

The ONLY thing that this car has not leaked was fuel. I poured out about 4 gallons of varnish from the fuel cell. However I will try and pull out the foam from the tiny fill neck and see what shape that is in. But more importantly I will put a pressure tester on it and let it sit for a bit on some paper and see what happens. Like I said this thing is not brittle and looks good.

Right on the fuel cell states that it needs to be replaced in five years, and looking up fuel cell info it states that these things need to be replaced. But I will replace the foam if needed to prevent clogging. Other than that I will save money to keep making this car safe in other ways.

Also I got some supports in the mail from SteveG. Thanks, I really needed some good help. I have hit a hard wall on my limit of stripped bolts and almost everything in this car. I think I have spent the most money on new hardware, taps, and Heli-Coil kits.

[Purple Frog]

I'd be very careful pressurizing a fuel cell.
They are not under pressure when in use.
Just saying.

YMMV

The cell maker may say to change it every 5 years, but SCCA doesn't.

If you get the old foam out, you can put new foam in by cutting it up into numerouse tennis ball sized pieces.

[DanW]

Rick Kirchner posted a very good procedure for leak testing a cell for seepage.

http://www.apexspeed.com/forums/show...ghlight=talcum

[rickb99]

.... The cell maker may say to change it every 5 years, but SCCA doesn't.

You know Purple, something really needs to be done to clarify this issue which you and I have had a mild disagreement on over the years. Every single fuel cell manufactured for racing has a statement associated with it that says it's to be replaced after 5 years or, may be recertifed for one additional 2 year period of use by the manufacturer.

Despite the above we both know of fuel cells well over 20 years old and still in use. And, we see several posts per year here by people who have weeping or leaking fuel cells asking how to fix it rather then replace it.

I guess it's going to take a couple of fuel cells erupting in flames going down the track before this issue is addressed OR get the FIA to realize the error of its ways and extend the useful life of a fuel cell to 10 or 15 years instead of 5 (which really should be done just as harness life was extended).

[Purple Frog]

I have found fuel cells stored full of racing fuel in air-conditioned shops, in cars that are kept clean and vacumned, last a very long time.

I am not in favor of driving with a leaking/weeping cell. I found that Hartwig repairs them at a reasonable price.

The manufacturers stickers are on the cells to benefit the manufacturers.

[rickb99]

.....The manufacturers stickers are on the cells to benefit the manufacturers.

It's NOT a manufacturers sticker, it's an FIA requirement.


FROM ATL concerning the FIA latest label requirement issued 2013.

All new fuel cells purchased after January 1st, 2013 and used in FIA sanctioned events will be required to carry this new FIA hologram. Any existing fuel cell that is within the 5 year legal FIA life-span (2008 and newer) is “grandfathered” and will be permitted for competitive use for its entire 5 year life. Please consult with a representative from your sanctioning body if you are unsure whether this mandate applies to you.

[jpetillo]

I have some of these same concerns. Most of the fuel cells that I've seen that are weeping are cracked because they have hardened and it's questionable that they can do the job we have them for in the first place in terms of rupture resistance.

[kea]

I'd be very careful pressurizing a fuel cell.
They are not under pressure when in use.


If you get the old foam out, you can put new foam in by cutting it up into numerouse tennis ball sized pieces.

Yes, do not put the old cell under pressure.

Also, be very careful about replacing fuel cell foam yourself. Some cells have a "lip" or flap, a couple of inches high on the floor. This helps traps fuel in a corner for pick-up. If your added "cell foam" pushes this down, you will have fuel pick-up issues when the fuel level get down.

[DaveW]

I know this thing is older than my last race car I bought new, but what goes wrong with these things? This looks OK and the foam in the inside looks like its in good shape, so who mandates that this thing needs to be changed every 5 years? And how can they know, I mean its under the seat inside a aluminum cover... Oh and its 15 years old.
...

In my experience, the black rubber cells are more durable than urethane cells, mostly because they are more resistant to damage from fuel with ethanol.

My urethane cell lasted ~18 years until I started using E10 pump gas in the F2000 series. It cracked and fell apart quickly (less than 3 years) with E10 gas.

I then got a new rubber cell from Eagle, and they say with E10 the cell should last well over 15 years. And they say to store it full to prevent drying it out.

So, since yours appears to be black rubber, as long as it appears intact and doesn't leak, I would continue to use it. If you start using E10, the foam will likely become an issue long before the cell does.

Most ethanol-free racing fuels (Sunoco 110, for instance) are very gentle on even the urethane-based cells.

[DanW]

I have found fuel cells stored full of racing fuel in air-conditioned shops, in cars that are kept clean and vacumned, last a very long time.

I am not in favor of driving with a leaking/weeping cell. I found that Hartwig repairs them at a reasonable price.

The manufacturers stickers are on the cells to benefit the manufacturers.

http://www.hartwig-fuelcell.com/page2.htm#costs

[DaveW]

It's NOT a manufacturers sticker, it's an FIA requirement.


FROM ATL concerning the FIA latest label requirement issued 2013.

All new fuel cells purchased after January 1st, 2013 and used in FIA sanctioned events will be required to carry this new FIA hologram. Any existing fuel cell that is within the 5 year legal FIA life-span (2008 and newer) is “grandfathered” and will be permitted for competitive use for its entire 5 year life. Please consult with a representative from your sanctioning body if you are unsure whether this mandate applies to you.

From the Nov 2016 GCR:

9.3.26. FUEL CELL SPECIFICATIONS
All cars must be equipped with a safety fuel cell complying with these
specifications, except for Touring, Spec Miata, Improved Touring, production-
based Vintage cars, or as otherwise specified in the GCR. All safety
fuel bladders shall be constructed and certified in accordance with the FIA
FT-3 or higher (FT-3.5, FT-5, etc.) or SFI 28.3 specifications. Fuel cells do
not time out and have no expiration date. Alternatively, safety fuel cells
shall be constructed in accordance with FIA FT-3 or higher or SFI 28.3
specifications and tested to those requirements by an independent facility
as witnessed and certified by a Professional Engineer. The results of these
tests shall be submitted to the Club Racing department for inclusion on a
list of approved suppliers. All safety fuel cells shall consist of a foam-filled
fuel bladder enclosed in a metal container at minimum.

[rickb99]

WOW Dave,

Strange move by the SCCA because, according to the FIA rules all FT-3 or higher fuel cells built to FIA standards DO HAVE a 5 year usable life. So the SCCA has stepped out on its own again. I understand it from a club rules versus 'unreasonable FIA rules' but, I wonder what their legal department thinks of that??

The biggest deal I see in that is opening up the field to other suppliers.

[Steve Demeter]

Ethanol in gasoline is the bane of all things fueled by it that were not specifically designed for it. Small engines, particularly 2 cycles, race cars as Dave alluded to in the effect on his fuel cell.

And besides the fact that our tax dollars subsidize this questionable at best environmental improvement, this stuff should go away.

We are using food crops to allow the people that turn it into ethanol to line their pockets with questionable benefit to the rest of the population.

End of rant.

If someone wants to hear a real rant look Tom Pomeroy up.

[HayesCages]

Harmon offers a 7-year warranty and they are FT3 certified...

WOW Dave,

Strange move by the SCCA because, according to the FIA rules all FT-3 or higher fuel cells built to FIA standards DO HAVE a 5 year usable life. So the SCCA has stepped out on its own again. I understand it from a club rules versus 'unreasonable FIA rules' but, I wonder what their legal department thinks of that??

The biggest deal I see in that is opening up the field to other suppliers.

[Fred Michael]

WOW Dave,

Strange move by the SCCA because, according to the FIA rules all FT-3 or higher fuel cells built to FIA standards DO HAVE a 5 year usable life. So the SCCA has stepped out on its own again. I understand it from a club rules versus 'unreasonable FIA rules' but, I wonder what their legal department thinks of that??

The biggest deal I see in that is opening up the field to other suppliers.

It's only a rule for FIA sanctioned series.
You are putting way too much stock in the FIA

[rickb99]

It's only a rule for FIA sanctioned series.
You are putting way too much stock in the FIA

Oh? In that case why follow the limits for cars on track during a race. Just put 250 cars on track and see how that works out.

SCCA is a member of ACCUS

ACCUS® is comprised of the six major motorsports sanctioning organizations (known at the FIA as "member clubs"): IMSA, IndyCar, NASCAR, NHRA, SCCA and USAC, each nominating two directors to its Board. Additionally, a number of independent directors are elected annually. The World Karting Association (WKA) is an associate member.

One of the things ACCUS does is:

New vehicle and equipment homologation papers

Which means, meeting FIA 'standards.

http://www.accusfia.us/

[xmazdatracy]

Redline…..…...6800 rpm

Bore = 3.575"
Stroke = 3.029"
Rod length = 4.990"
Wrist pin = .944"

1 inch = 2.54 cm.

Race Engine Clearances: (BAT catalog)
Main Bearings……………… .002"
Con rod bearings…………… .0015 - .002"
Con rod side clearance……. .015"
Camshaft bearings………… .0018 - .0026"
Piston to cyl. Wall………… .005"
Top Ring End Gap………… .015"
Crankshaft end float………. .0032 - .011"
Camshaft end float………… .0016 - .0047"
Wrist pin………………….. .0007 - .00153"
Intake valve stem………… .002"
Exhaust valve stem………. .0025"
Intake valve lash………….. .010" cold ? (.008)
Exhaust valve lash……….. .012" cold ? (.010)

Race Engine Torque Specs: (BAT catalog)
Head bolt…………………… 85 lbs./ft.
Main cap bolt………………. 75 lbs./ft.
Rod cap bolt…(Stock)….. 35 lbs./ft ? (45) Oliver is different
Flywheel bolt ……………… 50 lbs./ft. ? (75)
Pressure plate bolt…………. 15 lbs./ft.
Oil Sump bolt……………… 8 lbs./ft.
Rocker Cover bolt…………. 5 lbs./ft.
Front Cover Bolt…………… 13 lbs./ft.
Water Neck bolt…………… 15 lbs./ft.
Camshaft Sprocket Bolt…… 35 lbs./ft.
Crankshaft Pulley bolt…….. 28 lbs./ft.
Intake Manifold bolt………. 15 lbs./ft.
Exhaust manifold bolt ……. 15 lbs./ft.
Carb to manifold nut……… 15 lbs./ft.
Spark Plug………………… 20 lbs./ft.


Phone Numbers:

Cricket Farm Motors 864-277-1268 Rollin Butler (SC)
Quicksilver 301-698-9009 Sandy Shamlian (Maryland)
Elite 262-306-1977 Steve Knapp (Wisconsin)
Farley 816-431-3550 (Missouri)
Loyning 503-775-2999 (Oregon)
Ivey 503-255-1123 (Oregon)
BAT 941-355-0005 (Sarasota FL)

Block:
GCR says:
2.0 NE series
Nominal bore 90.84 mm
Nominal stroke 76.95mm
Casting # HM6015BA or HM6015B3


Holes in the stock block to make sure you put something (a plug) into:
Water temp – right side rear
Front hole next to #1 journal
Inside oil filter
Dip stick
Top of block breather (filter side)
Rear of block below freeze plug
Two ports around jack shaft

Butler says main bearing clearance = .002 - .003"
Quicksilver says main bearing clearance = .002
New head gasket = .054", old = .052" Ford Motorsports "red"

Planing block will get you (per Kevin Roberts):
Plane .010" = 1.63cc/hole
Plane .020" = 3.26cc/hole

Head bolt torque………………………………85 lbs.
Pistons shall not protrude above the cylinder block surface @ TDC.
Main cap torque = 75 lb.

Pistons:
GCR says:
…shall be standard Ford production
Weighed with rings and pin, rod and bolts (no bearings)
p/n 80HM6102LA 1332.5 grams
p/n 85HM6102DA 1255 grams
p/n 21426 casting 21426 1255 grams
Piston p/n 21426, casting p/n 21426 (AE Hepolite)
oversize = std Grade "C" (90.83/90.82)
New Ford Forged Pistons p/n M-6102-B200 J&E
J&E Pistons p/n M-6102-B200


Wisco Pistons for 5.7 rods = #6119A3 .030" over

Butler says piston/wall clearance .0045" to .0055 max.
…..about pin high on the skirt.
Loyning says piston/wall clearance .005" max
Cast pistons are worthless.
Loyning says Moly top ring gap = .015"
Quicksilver says Moly top ring gap = .015"
Butler says Moly top ring gap = .015"

Old piston top ring = 5/64"
New piston top ring = 1/16"


Oil:

Sandy (QS) say use Valvoline 13/30 Synthetic if you have an oil cooler.
I use Mobil 1 15/50
Oil filter…………………Wix 51348? NAPA gold 1335, 1374 may be better

Cams:
Farley says cam timing 2 – 4 degrees retard.
Quicksilver says 3 degrees retard.

Max lift against cam angle with zero tappet clearance measured in mm:
Angle Opening Closing
0 10.442 10.442
45 3.86 3.86
90 0.20 0.01

Same for intake and exhaust.

Maximum valve lift against cam angle w/zero tappet clearance = 0.400 +/- .005"
New Crane cam is an allowable substitute.

Valve clearance: Intake .008" Exhaust .010"
Adjust between cam and follower…..

Cam timing: what the 2.0 "straight up" intake valve centerline cam timing number should be…

The long straight tracks should shoot for a 114 – 115 degree centerline (more retarded) on the number one intake lobe.

- To increase torque on the short tracks the number should be reduced to 112 – 113.

Note: Retarding the cam by installing a 3-degree offset keys will not guarantee the cam is retarded 3 degrees. There are many factors/tolerances that can change the cam angle so it needs to be checked and corrected with the appropriate offset key. I say should because the offset keys themselves are not always exactly what they are marked. Check – adjust – and re-check.


Rods:
Oliver Rods = M-6200-C200
Butler Rod bearing clearance = .002"
Quicksilver rod bearing clearance = .0015 - .002"
Butler says old cast rods only good for 2000 miles.
Rod p/n M-6200-C200 is permitted (Oliver)
Rod bearing keepers face oil filter on block!!!!
Butler does 45lb. Rod torque
Old forged stock rods:
70HM-6205-B-A
knot sticks out side of pin end "+8BA"
"F" on side of casting


Head:
Cylinder head volume = 49cc min. (not including head gasket)
Head gasket = .9mm min. thick
Cylinder aperture = 92 mm
Max diameter of inlet port at manifold head face 39.5 mm.
Max dimensions of exhaust port at manifold face 35.5mm X 27 mm.
It is permissible to reshape inlet and exhaust port by removal of metal within limits.
Inlet valve 42.2mm
Exhaust valve 36.2mm
Valve stem 8.4mm
Butler uses yellow stripe valve springs (BAT).
Valve clearance: Intake .008" Exhaust .010"
Adjust between cam and follower…..

OK. I called QS and asked what they do to set the valves cold.

When they set up the head on the bench, for the intakes, they use 0.010 on cylinders 1-3, and 0.009 on cyl # 4. For the exhausts they use 0.013 for # 1, and 0.012 for the rest. They might have to adjust one or two slightly hot after they're run in, but that gives them the desired 0.008 intake and 0.010 exhaust (hot).

So the 0.002 extra clearance, as I said before, seems about right for cold valve adjustments of a head mounted on a block.



Head bolt torque………………………………85 lbs.

Flywheel:
Min weight = 14.4 lb. w/ring
Butler says 85lb w/blue locktite.
ARP says No Washers under bolts! P/N 151-2801
Torque to 75lb. W/ARP moly lube.
Torque to 85lb w/ 30wt oil.
Tightening sequence:
1. 70 lb.
2. Rap with hammer
3. 70 lb.
4. 75 lb.


Titan Oil Pump:
The chamfer on each round pump gear goes down into the pump body spigot.

Crankshaft:
Min. weight = 27.5 lb.

Ignition systems:
Spark Plugs…………NGK AP8FS <AP9FS>? (NGK 2227?)
.028" w/points, bigger w/electronic ignition
Bosch – Pertronix #1843
Crane 3000-0021 (or 700-0021) and 700-2231
Points……… .013… dwell 48 – 50 degrees
Points really around .014 !!!!

Carb issues:

Is it dumping fuel at idle (too high float level) or…
During cornering (need to solder shut the secondary idle jet)? or…
Is it some other problem?

Dave W. says: Is the secondary idle jet still working (open)? If it is, solder it shut. Fuel will slosh in the carb and come out through this jet into the throttle plate area, causing a bog. This is exacerbated by higher float levels.


Barry Haynie said: An interesting twist to this phenomena I often experience is the motor shutting off under very hard straight line braking. This seems to be a float-level sensitive deal. By raising the level (icroscopically!) and testing and resetting etc I can get it to not do this.
Any comments on this or similar experiences?

Dave W. replied: Barry, since the float bowl is at the front of the carb, meaning that the jets are in the rear of the bowl, it sounds like you are uncovering the jets, causing a very lean mixture, stopping the engine. As you said, raising the float level would help this, but may cause fuel to slosh into unwanted places. QS does extensive baffling, etc. to prevent this.

From one of Keith's previous posts:

"I set the seam in the float, parallel with the carb top and have a 1/4" float drop. Remove the carb top; slowly turn it upside down until the float seats the needle. At that point (before it compresses the spring loaded ball) the float seam should be parallel with the carb top. Measuring (side view) the seam, in the middle of the float, I want the drop measurement to be 1/4" more, when I now turn the carb top back (as if re-assembling the carb). If the drop is too small, it slows down the fuel flow in the bowl. If too much, it can "hang" in some corners and cause the car to stumble. I hope this helps. Keith@Averill

From: Dave Weitzenhof

1. The primary jets have more effect on cyl 2 & 3 than on cyl 1 & 4. The secondaries have more effect on 1 & 4 than on 2 & 3. Therefore, if 2 & 3 are rich compared to 1 & 4 (plug check after clean-cut, etc.), lean primaries or richen secondaries, and vice-versa.

2. A long time ago, before the widespread use of EGT sensors, I very successfully used a seat-of-the-pants trackside method of setting the over-all degree of richness. I would warm up the engine to operating temp, and then immediately run it to ~3000 rpm, let the rpm stabilize, and then open the throttle wide open for ~1 second. If the engine died or hesitated for more than ~1/2 second, the jets were too lean and needed to be richened. If the engine just barely hesitated and then revved cleanly, the jets were just right. If it picked up smoothly with no hesitation, the jets were too rich. All of this assumes no major carb or other engine problems. This really did work quite well.


Well... there you have it. 8 years of answers to the questions that weren't smart enough to go unanswered. Hope it helps.

[Fred Michael]

Oh? In that case why follow the limits for cars on track during a race. Just put 250 cars on track and see how that works out.

SCCA is a member of ACCUS

ACCUS® is comprised of the six major motorsports sanctioning organizations (known at the FIA as "member clubs"): IMSA, IndyCar, NASCAR, NHRA, SCCA and USAC, each nominating two directors to its Board. Additionally, a number of independent directors are elected annually. The World Karting Association (WKA) is an associate member.

One of the things ACCUS does is:

New vehicle and equipment homologation papers

Which means, meeting FIA 'standards'


http://www.accusfia.us/

Sanctioning bodies are free to set there own rules and the SCCA has NEVER required the replacement of fuel cells.
SCCA Homologation has ZERO to do with the FIA.
Yes the SCCA adopts SOME of the FIA standards but by no means is SCCA amateur competition bound by FIA rules.
By the way, I work in an FIA series and am involved in homologation of our car.

Now we have interrupted this build thread quite enough so I am done.

[xmazdatracy]

OK now I have another question I hope you guys can help out with. Is this the only bracket that is holding the pump on? It looks like it is getting ripped/torn by the belt tension. You can see that it was repaired once before and has cracked again through the weld!



I mean I see that there is like three holes (two threaded) for another bracket to help support the front of the pump from belt forces... Does this bracket not exist nor does it need to be?



And why is there a 90* plumbing fitting where everything else is a AN fitting?

[2BWise]

There should be a bracket on the front of the engine holding the oil pump and keeping it from rotating. On you second picture you can see a small mounting tab on the bottom of the pan, and on the oil pump there is an open hole on the bottom left hand corner. There needs to be a pencil brace between those two locations to provide constant tension on the belt.

[HayesCages]

To repair that crack I'd grind the plate (60* bevel) all the way through and reweld. When you repair a crack by welding over the top it always returns.

[Purple Frog]

Or... just cut out a new plate.

Scavenge lines can get away with low pressure fittings. On decades old cars one my find all sorts of "modifications".

[Steve Demeter]

I think the brace you need / are missing is here:

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...asp?RecID=3844

[Rick Kirchner]

Interesting.... I've never seen a Van Diemen with that brace. Mine has the Fast forward pump, similar plate setup, no brace, never a problem - but it's a steel plate.

Whenever I've had stuff crack it's been aluminum in some vibration environment. Same size steel replacement has always worked flawlessly.

those aren't plumbing fittings - they're o-ring port swivel fittings, steel, as the brits supplied them.

[troyt]

Mine's a single plate holding the pump on, doesn't seem to be an issue. '93 VD, with some of those funny British 90 fittings as well. AN fittings won't fit in my chassis at that position. But there is room for an extra bracket as pictured above, might give that a try...