An example of a proper rebuild of an 87 Reynard currently be done somewhere south of Atlanta.
eye candy
An example of a proper rebuild of an 87 Reynard currently be done somewhere south of Atlanta.
Another Reynard diffuser.
Way back in 2003 I was tired of cobbling together diffusers. So I designed a diffuser for my then Reynard. The mold was close to 6 feet long and weighed something like 200#.
Listening to Steve Lathrop I stayed with a fairly shallow break near the flywheel. I seem to remember 7 degrees as the goal. It was as slick as ice on the bottom side. Went almost to front of the rads.
Sold the mold with the car and both vanished into northern Wisconsin.
whats this for?
I was wondering what this hole with a mount behind it was used for?
Last edited by xmazdatracy; 11.16.16 at 9:19 AM.
Also thank you very much purple frog for the responses and great pictures of your two beautiful cars!
This thread is helping me feel out how the formula world works in regards to how parts are made fitted and used. Also that there is no objectively right way on how to fit or wire or what not on these things. I think after I get some taller stands I might enjoy sorting though this thing more. So yeah forgive me as I blunder ( be a PITA) through all this new massive amount of info, lol.
Homework from averill.
Did not get as far as I wanted. I have this obsession on fixing things as I find them and not sticking to the plan. Like neutralizing the battery acid so it can not do anymore damage. A before shot. Still not done with that too.
More pics to come.
Last edited by xmazdatracy; 11.16.16 at 9:18 AM.
http://www.harborfreight.com/two-pie...set-41577.htmlOriginally Posted by xmazdatracy
Thank you. I was looking at non foldable plastic ones from home deopt for the same price. So these are a much better option!
Well the hole through the body has a mounting tab that has holes for bolts at 1 1/4" spacing. Just like the jump plug. So I am going to clean up that area behind the fire wall anyway where the jump plug is now, and move that plug up to the body hole. Even better I wont have to buy more 4g wire for my jump battery!
Got a little board last night and wanted to see what it would take to pull the motor, and pulled the motor out. Man that is awesome. No hang ups at all. I saw from another thread its best to pull the fuel pump first so that came out with no problems and to have a third strap to control the angle of the motor/trans assembly, but now I wonder if it could come out with that still in? One huge reason I wanted to get away from cars (door slammers) is that you will never have to get under this thing. I lost a good friend I looked up to and worked with every day about 5 years ago under a car, and ever since then have been super spooked to get under any car. So with these 5 bolts this thing slides right out. I mean I was worried about pulling the motor out (up) when the car was up high on the horses, but you dont pull it up, you slide it back!
To late to do any more.
Not quite a frame off restoration, but getting close.
Last edited by xmazdatracy; 11.16.16 at 9:15 AM.
Tracy,
Your pictures aren't working. Need to do something about that so we can follow what you're doing.
CREW for Jeff 89 Reynard or Flag & Comm.
Sorry about that guys. Last forum had unlimited photo storage. So I am learning how to use a new photo storage site. I think I got it now. Let me know if you still cant see them.
A huge thanks to the Averill Racing Stuff (Keith?)! Not only where the parts cheaper than Pegasus, but got here next day! Every part is original and backed with first hand how to instructions (just a phone conversation away)! I feel very lucky I live close to this shop and cant wait to keep supporting someone that is supporting our cars! I work in a retail setting and can tell you this guy answers the phone, pms, and is very eager to share knowledge. Top notch. Give him a call if you need something Reynard and more.
Got some stuff to do today! (beside mow the lawn.... damn weather)
For safety's sake while you have it apart you need to raise the shoulder harness mounts to be more correct for HANS use. There are pictures on previous threads. Steve Myers car was a great example (I think Averill did the work). [around 2009 - 2010]
Check out the angle that the belts should run as they approach your shoulder from the rear. You can find the recommended angle on the HANS website, if you already threw your instructions away. The old position increases the chance of dangerous spinal compression under impact G forces. Not good.
It is a fairly easy fabricating job. Most of us build them with multiple mounting holes to alter the height.
As one who is still typing on this site because of a HANS device I strongly recommend that alteration.
Throw that fiberglass seat away. Far, far away. You need to pour a custom seat. Even is you only use West Marine two part foam it will be a world safer.
If you have knee clearance problems against the bottom of the stock dash (the car was designed for 135# guys), many of us trim material off the bottom of the dash panel.
Another recommendation from Steve Lathrop: During my frame ups I always welded in an 18 guage steel floor in the front section that is stepped up from the rest of the frame. It muchly prevents that area of the frame bending into your feet on impact. Not as high a priority as the HANS location.
Also... the front aluminum skids. I always replaced them with a 3/4" delron panel cut to fit..
You still want a small angle iron piece protecting the leading edge of the aluminum bottom. Trust me. I went innocently bouncing through the grass one time, and pealed the whole floor out from under the car. Only because I had a second floor under my ass did i not lose some personal items.
Trying to keep you busy.
Rebuild
Yes, I did the work on Steve Myers car, a few years before a head and Neck device became the law. And a number of others since.
Steve wanted it changed because his back hurt after a race weekend. The belts were compressing his spine do to the low attachment.
The first weekend of the H&N requirement, he was the only Reynard owner at the local track that wasn't complaining about their back.
A must do change !
"Another recommendation from Steve Lathrop: During my frame ups I always welded in an 18 guage steel floor in the front section that is stepped up from the rest of the frame. It muchly prevents that area of the frame bending into your feet on impact. "
With the Reynard Cast bulkhead wraping around the front, I have never seen that section of the floor bending up. Even after Tim's Run-Offs wreck !
"You still want a small angle iron piece protecting the leading edge of the aluminum bottom."
This was standard on the car when new.
Reynard Rebuild
Here is a link to the photos from my rebuild showing the improved shoulder belt mounts that Keith did, among other things.
http://www.apexspeed.com/forums/album.php?albumid=71
Looks good! Wonder what the before pics looked like.
Did not get to far. spent too much time getting stuff and not enough time working. No one carrys the copper crush washers for banjo bolts... Any way
Before
After
Also is there a fix for this or do I need a new selector rod?
As far as the seat and hans stuff is concerned I was going to get that done. Just not quite there yet and also confused on how to get the car to my chassis guy. Trailer is in a non removable storage and the parking lot/entrance to his shop would not allow this car to move. I think I need to make some transport wheels of my own. I think with out the engine in the car adult trike wheels can hold the weight. but thats not for now. My mind is still reeling from all the things I find on this car, and all the info I am ascertaining.
Oh, and hence my name. ALL of my tools are metric. So daily trips to snap-on... I mean Harbor freight
Get a Pegasus catalog.
You can roll the chassis around with those $9 furniture movers from Harbor Freight.
I can't find the picture of it, but assuming you have a truck the front half of the chassis will fit in the bed. I drove my chassis to Averill's, the whole front half assembled, in the bed of my truck. Put it in there with an engine hoist. With the tailgate down the front suspension rested on the tailgate everything else fits in the remainder of the space in the bed.
Send me a PM. My trailer is open for at least the next few months since my body panels are out for paint.
Thought this was very interesting. I kept my jump battery for the last car. Its a huge yellow top from optima, so I would be able to start and warm up the car with that and then use a smaller odyssey battery for the sessions. Now I just need to figure out which one. Back to the interwebs!
Im thinking PC545, because I will be using the jump battery to start the car and warm it up. What about MSD ignition? Will that require any additional Ah's?
Went with the pc680 from apex battery
Last edited by xmazdatracy; 12.14.16 at 9:47 AM.
PC680 runs my Reynard for multiple sessions between charges.
Gary Tholl
#24 BlurredVisionRacing
The PC680 is correct, especially if you are religious about using a jump battery.
The PC925 eliminates the need for a jump battery, but weighs 9 lb. more. On the up side, if you stall after an exciting 570 spin, it will have the juice to restart.
The biggest single complaint over the years concerning Reynards has to do with the "custom" starter. Stock toyota starters must be modified to fit the starter bracket assembly, and to connect to the long pinion shaft. Then the next hurdle is the proper alignment of pinion gear in relation to the flywheel. That involves making sure the oilite bushing in the bellhousing is in proper condition (purchase from Averill), and the pinion shaft from the starter nose to that bushing is aligned for smooth operation.
I established a happy relationship with an old-fashioned auto electric shop that actually rebuilt starters etc. Thus i was able to continue the use of an 25 year old starter.
The pinto vibrates with a unique frequency that loves to fracture the wiring inside the solenoid. Those internal wires need to be "potted" with vibration damping material.
The good news about a proper pinto race engine. It usually only takes a split second to start. The starter and pinion don't usually wear out from use. Most failures are from fractures of the internal wiring.
Back in the day, when CFC racing was big in the SEDIV and many Reynards were running, on double weekends the Sunday race was usually highlighted by what Kummer called the "ceremonial push starting of the Reynards".
Interestingly, if you know you don't have a way to start on track, you might be a bit more careful not to have occasion to stall the pig.
What PF said about the solenoid wiring: If it hasn't been done already take it apart and glue the wires where they are soldered or they will fail.
Lawrence Hayes
Hayes Cages, LLC
Sagle, ID.
Yes, the MSD does add to the Ah's but I cannot recall how much. Anybody else know the answer.
CREW for Jeff 89 Reynard or Flag & Comm.
1 amp per 1k rpm from what I've heard.
Lawrence Hayes
Hayes Cages, LLC
Sagle, ID.
Whatever you can't find here, you can usually source from Pegasus Racing:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...?clickkey=7239
I've had to find the odd thing elsewhere -- like certain weld-in bungs, but for the most part, Aircraft Spruce has been my best and cheapest go-to for AN and ANS stuff.
I found the MSD was not worth the expense, weight, nor potential for problems.
YMMV
Points and Bosch Blue Coil.
The Pinto does not turn enough RPMS to need fancy failure prone electronic ignition systems.
Points are for arrowheads. I always ran a petronix and Bosch Blue coil.
does it really need Petronix? if so, why?
Although we had an MSD in one of our cars, I never found any advantage to it over points and condenser. .
Last edited by rickb99; 11.19.16 at 4:40 AM.
CREW for Jeff 89 Reynard or Flag & Comm.
When I ran the Pinto engine, and switched to a magnetic pickup from points, the engine ran noticeably smoother. That indicated that the timing of ignition pulses with the points was not as uniform as with the magnetic pickup. This resulted in a small increase in HP.
Dave Weitzenhof
Sorry to interrupt fellas, but a quick question and we can get back on topic. Is there supposed to be play in the input shaft? Its just a little, but new to me.
Yes, the bearing in the flywheel/crank holds it steady when assembled.
That is a nice and clean bellhousing. Good sign.
Notice the cutout at the bottom of the bell. The flywheel is potentially exposed at that point. You don't want it striking the track (think curb jumping). Very important that you have a skid steel protecting that area.
Build Thread
Factory steel skid with supports, one on each side.
Found this how to;
"1st- remove rear cover of Hewland
2. split the trans from the engine. tilt the trans so rear cover is down and bell is about 45 degree up..tires and wheels were left on. this took me 1 1/2 hours as i had quick disconnects on clutch and brake lines. caution - there is a coupler that connects the input shaft to the lay shaft.tjis is why you need to maintain the 45 degre tilt so coupler does not came off.
3. i fabricated a shaft puller, but averill said he once used a rope to pull the input shaft/slave cylinnder. if you do not have puller, try the rope trick. secure one end to the shaft, secure the other to a 2 x 4 spanning the bell housing..note-you should have removed the 3 bolts and two dowel pins that station the throwout bearing asembely..
as you take up slack on rope the whole aluminum assby and input will come out..you may have to gently tap one of the dowel throwout bearing assembly slots as you tighten up your puller..the whole thing will pop out
if i remember therr are two internal o rings on the throw out assmebly slider and three on the input shaft/housing assemebly..they are NOT inch..they are metric- avaerilll sells whole o ring kit for $ 20.00 and i keep a spare kit and the puller in the race trailer..
on re-assembly
remove oil filler tank and you can guide the input/slave assembly into place. one more thing...
once you replace this shaft/cylinger assmebly make sure to turn the input shaft and you can feel the rear gear turning ,,this is why you remove the rear cover,,,so connector is inplace and you are good to go.
if you really wanted too, you could have removed the nut holding this gear and tapped the layshaft that ould have mvoed the input shaft, and you could pop out the above assembely this way as well...but it is a bear to do this by your self.."
ok. but what do they look like, and where to they go?
I know this is blasphemy in some quarters... but.. when it comes to Reynard clutch slaves, I always believed "if it ain't broke, don't fix it."
Of course, I only used the clutch about 6 times a weekend, so there was little wear.
i always had a spare set of Averill O-rings in the race trailer. Still do.
Don't go crazy with brake clean around the seals.
Three of my Reynards had skid plate fabed out of steel angle iron that looked basically like this CAD drawing:
The supports are fabricated steel tubes that go between the lower mounting ears on the motor to the skid plate in PF's CAD() drawing.
I've got a proper set supports that I'll give you if you send me your mailing address.
Steve
Lol, oh it worked... you just had to push on the clutch pedal to engage and then reach down and pull back on the clutch pedal to release.I know this is blasphemy in some quarters... but.. when it comes to Reynard clutch slaves, I always believed "if it ain't broke, don't fix it."
Of course, I only used the clutch about 6 times a weekend, so there was little wear.
i always had a spare set of Averill O-rings in the race trailer. Still do.
Don't go crazy with brake clean around the seals.
sure!The supports are fabricated steel tubes that go between the lower mounting ears on the motor to the skid plate in PF's CAD(
I've got a proper set supports that I'll give you if you send me you mailing address.
Steve
Hello gentlemen, I found this gem sitting at the bottom of the diff area of the Reynard. I was hoping someone could please let me know if this presses on to the input hole or can I worry about this after I replace the clutch slave (connect the input shaft to the layshaft) and fix it later when I open the side plate??????
Layshaft bearing from the back of the diff housing? You need to pull the side plate at the very least. Part # 18 of Illustration "B" in Hayes document in next post.
The Reynard gearbox is a a custom Reynard housing with Hewland MK9 internals...
I've always left the input shaft in when i change clutch slave seals. YMMV
On older Mark 9 boxes there was a very long bolt that held the two shafts together. On the Reynard box it is not used.
Last edited by Purple Frog; 11.19.16 at 10:29 PM.
Lawrence Hayes
Hayes Cages, LLC
Sagle, ID.
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