Not mine or anyone I know:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/141304681885?
No reserve. Seems like a project with potential for FF conversion or ??
Not mine or anyone I know:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/141304681885?
No reserve. Seems like a project with potential for FF conversion or ??
Caldwell D9B - Sold
Crossle' 30/32/45 Mongrel - Sold
RF94 Monoshock - here goes nothin'
He's been trying to sell it for 2 years. Listed here before and other sites.
I made him a realistic offer and he shot it down.
What do you consider 'reasonable'?
Ian
Something...., more than reason told me to.
I estimated the cost to get it on the track at $7000 + tires + fuel cell. No labor.
If you read all the prior postings he picked it up cheap but then spent a bunch of money collecting all the parts. Then got tired of it. Its been sitting about 10 years. Original asking price was $14000.
Dropped to $8500 on the ad here and $6500 on race-cars.com
Considering complete take it to the track cars of that age are worth less than $7000, its a stretch.
I was going to buy a ready 88 from Washington for $5500 but that sold fast.
I think you're about right with those figures.
Unfortunately it often happens that people get too invested in a particular project and spend beyond the value of the car. I've done it myself!
Ian
Last edited by ianashdown; 06.01.14 at 12:03 PM.
Previous attempts on Ebay stalled out about $4500-$4700 if I recall correctly. They did not meet reserve though.
He's getting close now.
Lola: When four springs just aren't enough.
This car is about 30-45 minutes from me if any one wants me to go inspect it for them.
Not sure there is much to inspect.....
The biggest problem is shipping. Esp coast to coast...
I made the guy 2 offers. One w/o shipping, the other shipped to Cali. Thought it was a chance for him to get a couple more bucks....
He should have taken the $4500 bid. But I've run across a lot of eBay auctions where they have friend run it up to just below reserve making the next bidder a winner.
I was following a beach vee once. It mysteriously went from $1500 to over $7000 in a few days and stopped.
"He should have taken the $4500 bid. But I've run across a lot of eBay auctions where they have friend run it up to just below reserve making the next bidder a winner."
No way anyone would do that!
Scott Woodruff
83 RT5 Ralt/Scooteria Suzuki Formula S
(former) F440/F5/FF/FC/FA
65 FFR Cobra Roadster 4.6 DOHC
Would a guy 6' 235# fit in this car? If not are there any FC that I would fit into? My Scorpion F500 was a very tight fit.
short answer no... been there done that. I had to lose 20lbs to fit in my current car, and another 5-10 would make me more competitive. I am 6' and about 200lbs right now.
Are there any that would fit my size? My main problem is with my shoulders and elbows.
Yes. 91-96, 98 and up Van Diemen chassis will work for someone your size. I have a 91 for sale. You can pm me if you are interested.
yup - i'm 6' 220 and I have a 95VD. Right now there's nothing under my butt except a 3/8 sheet of ensolite. The seat back is very thin but there's a lot next to my shoulders. big feet are a challenge as are big legs thru the dash bulkhead. I think the 96 is a bit bigger there, and it appears the 2000 and up cars are as well.
If you determine mid 90's to be 94,95,96, and then consider that they all use basically the same chassis from 90 on, then 91-96, 98 and up suffices. That said, there were some cockpit changes made post 98 which helped those with broader shoulders, but again, the chassis are basically the same otherwise.
Then that eliminates everything through 99 for me....
One can modify the car's frame to accommodate your frame. A little spendy. Be sure to find experienced fabricator-welder.
"An analog man living in a digital world"
Thanks for the feedback, Sold my f500 at the runoffs after finishing 4th, I thought that was pretty good for an old guy that was always 100# over in impound. Taking a year off due. to work commitments, and am looking at options for next year.
That's what I did with my Zink Z10. At the time I was 5-9" and 250. I could not steer or shift because of the forward bars jammed my shoulders.
Barry Callouette fabbed new bars and reinforcements. and widened the chassis top rails about an inch each. Yes, a bit spendy because of "scope creep" but the result was worth it. Losing 25 lbs helped a bunch too. I can dig up some photos and email them to you if you want them.
“Racing makes heroin addiction look like a vague wish for something salty.” -Peter Egan
Thanks Dan. Not quite ready.
Right now I'm trying to get people to give me measurements and build a list of car/driver dimensions in this thread:
http://www.apexspeed.com/forums/showthread.php?t=63919
In the end FC might just not be possible for me but the grid sizes do not lie.
Not only is FC more popular, entry cost is lower than just about any. $10k can get you on track. Not possible in the bigger (FE/FM) cars...
I don't care if I'm last, but being last in a grid size of 2 is pointless (as is FE in SoCal).
But then again it might be where I have to be so I'll have to travel up north where FE is more popular.
Not sure if any one cares, but I got the RF88 roller that was on ebay. It's a long story.. The man was very pleasant to do business with. I drove from N.Y to florida with my 67 year old dad, round trip in 2 1/2 days. And yes i did over pay for it but it was just what i was looking for, a project car. would i do it again? HELL NO...
P.S It's a crazy project..Ill need help...Ill be asking.. I haven't really started yet just trying to sort everything and set a game plan. Im new to ApexSpeed so bare with me. So when i get going if any one can help i would greatly appreciate it. thank you.
Peter,
People are really helpful here....
Suggest keeping a post to a single question or topic. When the questions get too long people loose focus
Good luck with the project. I hope it works out.
My 94/5 VD was recently rebuilt, essentially top to bottom....the whole project, including adding 4 inches height to the main hoop - all paint - rebuild engine - new fuel cell - new wires - new ignition - EPP seat - all new rod ends - shock rebuild by Stimola - new side pod floors and belly pan - new belts - and more - sort of top to bottom yup.........the cost exceeded the original price of the car and it was in running shape back then......that's the way these things go.......what the heck, I figure another car simply becomes a bit of a project too, so I figured since it was for Club Racing purposes I might as well rebuild what I already am familiar with
you know how to spell boat?
Bust
Out
Another
Thousand
keep us posted
i am looking to get back in the saddle myself
thank you guys
Right now I'm just gathering as much info as I can. If anyone has detailed pictures of the engine bay pluming [oil lines,sump system,breather system,coolant lines/pipes/hoses] the car is a 2.0l.
Any pictures would help at this point..
The only reason I got this car is because 98% of the car is there, all the important stuff and it has tons of spares.
When I spoke to the seller he was ready to cut the car up and sale it for parts, It just didn't seem right to me. I couldn't let him do it.
for plumbing you might refer to the Carrol Smith books and "Competition Car Preparation" by Simon McBeath
Last edited by provamo; 03.22.15 at 1:44 PM. Reason: should wear glasses when composing
thank you, got them both and more. Im looking for pictures of a actual RF88 fc2000, Like other peoples car's and rebuilds. Not much out there as for as detailed pictures. I just want to get a mental picture of where everything go's and what it should look like.
I'm a mechanic by trade, how its done is not a problem but i haven't worked on a formula car in over 10 years. my first and last formula car was a zink-z10.
This RF has bin siting a garage in box's for about 10 year's.
Peter,
I am currently finishing up an '88 VanDiemen FC and I will try to get some photos of the engine bay for you. I am located in the suburbs of Philadelphia, PA so you are welcome to come down and look at the car and take whatever photos you need to if that would be helpful.
Best Regards,
Chuck Marrical
Peter,
Sorry to take so long for pictures. I'm not sure if these will be helpful to you but let me know if you need any more specific photos.
Have you searched Apex for forsale ads?
Here is one that I happened to keep since it is a 1600.
http://apexspeed.com/forums/showthre...+van+diemen+ff
And some more:
http://apexspeed.com/forums/showthre...+van+diemen+ff
Thank you Chuck Ma, Dick R.
So sorry for the crazy long delay, got caught up with fam,kids,work,house,etc...
Chuck.
thank you for the invite and the pictures. if you can send me some more that would be great. If your familiar with the FRCCA club they will be at pocono on MAY 2-3 POCONO SOUTH-EAST COURSE. It's my old club from my Zink 1600 days. I'll be there to help out and catch up with old friends, maybe you and the FC can make it. If not will see when i can make it out to your neck of the woods.
Dick R.
Yes i have looked at everything. The 1600 cars are a bit different not helping me much, other then body work and suspension.
Chuck Ma this ones for you.
I do have a question.
How is the engine placed in the car.. at what degree of angle (pitched up or down) in relation to the chassis bottom frame rail. I have the chassis on a work table, so if the chassis is perfectly level front to rear side to side. How should the engine and bell housing be, level with the chassis or with a upward or downward pitch. And if so how much (how many degrees).
thank's to everyone for the help.
Peter,
I will try to get some additional photos shortly. I am familiar with the FRCCA and I ran many years ago with them when I had a Lola T440. My FC is not to the point yet that it is ready to run but let me know when you would like to come to look at the car.
I believe that the engine is level with the chassis but I will verify that. When I got the car it had a "T" shaped rubbing block / spacer that was sandwiched between the 2 lower frame rails and the bell housing. This spacer portion was approximately .25" thick. I have since added a Gyrodynamics diffuser so the rubbing block portion is gone but I retained the spacer. This spacer also aligns the engine so that the front engine mount aligns perfectly with the mounting pads on the frame rail at the front of the engine bay.
Chuck Marrical
Hi, Chuck
Great info big help. I have to see about a day trip, i well let you know in advance.
When i got my car- most of the brackets are missing., the front engine mount was repaired about five times and lines up like S*#@, plus a titan oil pan that hits at the rear the last frame rail.
I can work around all this and make my own mounts, but i need to know have the engine should
sit.
thank you.
Don't mean to butt in butt maybe you should start a thread or threads in FC discussion.
There may be people that can contribute that don't look at classifieds.
Jat..
Peter,
Beer Budget has a great suggestion! If you move this thread to the FC discussion area there would be a lot more folks with similar cars and a great deal of knowledge that would see the thread and be able to contribute a lot more info.
Chuck Marrical
thanks,
Your both right. I'll start with the engine position question first.
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