DB4 Questions

[Greg S.]

An early Swift DB4 seems to have found its way into my home. It has a 2.0 Cosworth and will be used for Autocross only. Unfortunately, it didn't come with an instruction book so I have many questions.

First, is an instruction book available for the Swift and/or the Cosworth? Any general or specific does or don't would be greatly appreciated.

A question that has already come up. What is the Torque Spec for the stub axle nut, and the wheel nut?

Thanks

[Rick Ross]

Depending on who you ask........

Wheel nut - 130 lb/ft
Rear stub axle nut - 275 lb/ft
Front stub axle nut - 200 lb/ft

For autocross you may need to change the CWP ratio. And you may want to run it as a 4 speed box (using gears 2 thru 5 on track).

[Greg S.]

Those Torque numbers are much closer to what I was expecting. Very similar to my RT5 numbers.

Many years ago Taylor installed a Hewland 7-31 CWP and first isn't used. Overheating has been an ongoing problem although it may have been resolved recently.

Thanks for the information. I am hoping to learn without using trial and error.

[Rick Ross]

The gearbox should have an internal gear-driven pump and a filter on the rear cover. I can't imagine how overheating would be an issue on short autocross runs. What quantity and viscosity of gear oil do you plan to use?

[Greg S.]

I'm sorry, I changed subject without warning. It was the engine that was overheating. Since Taylor worked on the Staffs, it's been bulletproof.

I believe the transmission is filled with Light Weight Shockproof. I am seriously thinking of switching to the Heavy Shockproof.

[DB4 Tim]

Greg you know you are required to post pictures...at least as many as Rick has ..which is like 300

[Greg S.]

Greg you know you are required to post pictures...at least as many as Rick has ..which is like 300

I posted the only picture I have so far. My first event with the car is a couple of weeks away.

[DB4 Tim]

Cool...let us know...IMO driving the DB4 is the most fun you can have





with your clothes on...

I posted the only picture I have so far. My first event with the car is a couple of weeks away.

[Dick R.]

I'm sorry, I changed subject without warning. It was the engine that was overheating. Since Taylor worked on the Staffs, it's been bulletproof.

Is your radiator still a road racing oriented design?

I had my FF radiators re-cored using high capacity brass/copper street type cores after seeing how small the radiator was on my 5.0 Mustang. The car would NEVER overheat.

The fines are louvered.

Works very well with two exposed side rads, even with multiple runs close together in hot weather with no supplemental cooling between runs. It also cools down during runs if the run starts with temps over the thermostat setting.

Here is a link to some info.

http://www.arrowheadradiator.com/14_...utomobiles.htm

Dick
CM 85

[Greg S.]

The radiator is similar to the original except Aluminum. I'll take a look at the fins to see what it has. Circulating the water through the engine while it is not running seems to have solved most of the overheating. Before adding the electric water pump, the engine would not cool down between runs.

Also, there was a second driver in the past, but I will be running it alone unless I can get my daughter to give it a try. She is off road racing Karts in the KC area so I don't think she will be driving it very often.

[DB4 Tim]

Could there be an air lock or bubble in the system

[Greg S.]

I ran the car at an Autocross last Sunday and again had overheating issues. I agree that an air bubble may very well be part of the problem.

I am replacing the fill tank since it appears that the cap may not be sealing correctly. I am also adding a third connection from a high point in the plumbing to try to eliminate any air. I will be adding an electric fan to aid in cooling when the car is not in motion. Hopefully these steps will keep things cool.

Now if I can just get the Webers to work when coming off idle.

[DB4 Tim]

You don't get up to any sustained speed do you...you might ......just not have enough air going through the side pods

On and off the throttle fast and short runs

[RussMcB]

I'd add the fan, then see if the car will run for a while (10 min) without overheating. If you can't get it to idle for a long time without overheating, I wouldn't take it to an event and risk hurting it. I'd keep looking for other possible problems (head gasket?).

[DB4 Tim]

You can run a test to see if there is spent gases in the coolant......Snap on used to sell the kit

[Greg S.]

Thanks for the advice. I definitely don't want to hurt the motor.

After making th changes, I should get some good data this week, assuming it doesn't rain. I hate running in the rain.

[DB4 Tim]

But running in the rain would be cooler

[Greg S.]

Ran the car for about 15 runs without an overheating problem. I replaced the surge tank with one that was much larger and installed the fan. Without using the fan on course, I was seeing consistent 210 degree coolant outlet temperature at the end of each run which I assume is acceptable. The coolant level never changed so it appears that problem is solved.

Now the clutch line sprung a leak before my last run. Anything special I need to know about the line? Best place to buy?

[Charles Warner]

If the clutch line itself sprung a leak then the lines on the car must be very old or abused and should all be replaced. If, however, a fitting on the clutch line started leaking then it can be replaced.

[Greg S.]

It appears that it was abraded by a bolt where it crossed in front of the motor. I'm still trying to identify the fittings so I can order a replacement.

I also found out that really old tires are not as good as old tires, even on a good concrete surface. I hate to speculate on how much time the tires are costing me.

[-pru-]

Always drolled over this car when it ran CenDiv events. Looking forward to seeing it out again Greg!

[Greg S.]

Another question. The oil level is supposed to be 1/2" over the shelf in the sump, as I understand it. Is this with the engine running or just warmed up but not running?

The car performed flawlessly the last two outings. The driver, not so much!

[bill gillespie]

Hey Greg,

Was this Jim Wright's car ?

Regards,
Bill Gillespie

[Greg S.]

Hey Greg,

Was this Jim Wright's car ?

Regards,
Bill Gillespie

I don't really know all the history. It originally ran the Pro Series, and then was raced at least a couple of times in Florida. The only name I have is Tim Albright, but I don't know if he was the driver or owner.

It was purchased in 97 for Autocross by Wheeler McDougal in Illinois. He drove it up until I purchased it this spring. Mac did a lot of work to make a reliable and fast autocross car out of it, and It seems to be a better car than my RT5.

[bsunier]

Hi Bill,
Jim Wright still has the same red DB4 and is racing it.
Bernie.

[Greg S.]

Another question. The oil level is supposed to be 1/2" over the shelf in the sump, as I understand it. Is this with the engine running or just warmed up but not running?

I'm still need to check my oil level. Information would really be appreciated.

[Paul LeCain]

Run it for a minute or two.

Shut it off.

Measure the oil level.

On the DB-4, the way we always did it was to measure it like above, then keep adding until some showed up in the overflow tank. Replace the amount in the overflow every session.