'90 Reynard Water Lines

[jdp526]

I am finally ready to install engine back into the basketcase of a car I bought a couple of years ago. I didnt get any work done on it last year so I made a resolution this year to finish car before my son graduates from college, lol, which is next month.

Anyway, I don't feel comfortable cutting silicone hose for water lines since the radiators are probably mounted in a slightly different position than before. I do have aluminum lines in place. Is there enough room for me to measure and install rubber hoses onto aluminum tubing with engine mounted in frame? The silicone hose is expensive, can't be found locally, so I dont want to make the mistake of cutting it before I install engine then founding out after installation that lengths are incorrect.

Thanks,
JP

[rickb99]

I am finally ready to install engine back into the basketcase of a car I bought a couple of years ago. I didnt get any work done on it last year so I made a resolution this year to finish car before my son graduates from college, lol, which is next month.

Anyway, I don't feel comfortable cutting silicone hose for water lines since the radiators are probably mounted in a slightly different position than before. I do have aluminum lines in place. Is there enough room for me to measure and install rubber hoses onto aluminum tubing with engine mounted in frame? The silicone hose is expensive, can't be found locally, so I dont want to make the mistake of cutting it before I install engine then founding out after installation that lengths are incorrect Thanks, JP

Call Kieth Averill.

He may be able to make up a complete set for you OR, give you the correct lengths for each one you'll need.

AVERILL RACING STUFF - (248) 585-9139

[jdp526]

Thanks for the suggestion, Rick! Keith has been a big help with this project but I didnt think about calling him in regard to water lines. I already have the hose, just need to cut and mount the pieces.

[Robins Ken]

May I suggest using 1 inch heater hose from an auto parts store for a trial run, then go to the silicone when satisfied. In/out of the pump can vary but step up/down diameter 90's are out there. You just have to dig a bit to find and modify them. Buy the parts guy a coffee and take a measuring tape with you.

Good luck with the car. It will be well worth the effort. The Reynard in both 1600 and 2000 form was strong, forgiving and quick. Great looking too. Ken.

[kea]

Go ahead and install the engine, there is room to install the water hose after, but not much.
The water pump to main pipe can be also solved if you have a collar welded on the pipe to bring the size up to the water pumps inlet size. This opens up your options for a connection, other than just a step up/down hose.
Remember to use clamps for the silicone hose, that have an inner band, so the hose doesn't try to extrude (over time) through the screw slots. (I also have the clamps).
Good to know the car is getting that close.

[jdp526]

Robin that was a good idea of using heater hose. I may just try that.
Keith, I did find the Ideal lined clamps at Graingers here in town.

The bottom pipe-to-pump is a stepdown and old hose was just tightened down enough where it appears not to have leaked where it fits on lower tubing.

I hope to have engine running by next weekend, finally!

[jdp526]

Well, I made a step-down bushing for the water pump to lower radiator Y-tube. I took a piece of 1 1/4" ID silicone tubing and stripped colored layer off and it came out to apprx 1 1/2" OD that fits tight into 1 1/2" hose from water pump. I will put some silicone glue on it, clamp it, and I expect it will work fine.

[rickb99]

Well, I made a step-down bushing for the water pump to lower radiator Y-tube.

http://www.sporthoses.com/parts/straight_reducer/
Why not use one of these? Wrong sizes?

[jdp526]

Rick, that is what I needed but those are too short. The old hose is 6" in length. This is where I ordered my silicone hose, http://www.siliconehose.com/commerce/index.jsp , but they didnt have the right size reducer either.

[Steve Demeter]

Be very wary of gluing one piece of hose inside the other. The temps and pressures are hell and I would seek another route.

Perhaps look at Pegasus as they have a wide variety of reducing silicone hose bits.

It will fail at the most inconvenient time possible.

I would even consider making a metal bushing and welding it onto the metal pipe before I would gliue 2 pieces of hose.

Just my 2 cents.

[Purple Frog]

I've used rubber sleeve reducers for about 40 years. I get them right down the street at NAPA. But, i must say, in my applications the inner most layer has always been a metal pipe.

[kea]

JP as I said before, you would be better off in the long term, to weld a sleeve to the metal pipe. If I had no other choice, I would inquire into a rubber glue (like for patching an inner tube) to bond the two hoses together, not RTV silicone.

[jdp526]

I stopped by auto store and they let me behind counter so I could find a step down hose that will work.

Got oil lines mounted, spun pump with drill to get pump and engine primed. Got about 25 lbs of oil pressure with drill so it looks like its good to go.

Engine is mated up with completed trans and ready to install into frame.

[rickb99]

Another Reynard gets close to the track

Keith, have you seen anything of Bruce's "new" Reynard's????

Sure hated seeing them go.... sigh. But they have a good home.

[kea]

Rick,
I've got both the Ex-Smith/Garrell car and the bare frame here. I'm going to add some HANS shoulder bars, clean up that joint next to the clutch master cylinder and a few minor repairs, then he can put it back together again.
Too bad you had to part with them both, but we will see about giving them a good home around the Great Lakes Division, so the new owner can join us next season in the GLC.