I guess I'm kind of amazed and disappointed at the attitudes expressed in recent threads dealing with FC weight. This is the group that watched FF nearly die due to stagnation, and the only thing most guys can say about it is "don't move my cheese" (unless of course, the cheese is inside a new F1000 or F600.....) The comments about being tired of hearing the overweight complain about disadvantages was uncalled for. We're not talking grossly obese here.
As far as GT-1 goes, I had a BIG friend (6'4, 280) that actually took his driver's schools in one. But for me it's just too big and at least 3x as expensive as an FC to run. Besides, I fit safely, but snugly, in my FC. And I'll freely admit that I could just drive the car harder. But that's not the point. Potential is the point.
I was chief of tech at IRP once when one of the SRF reps rented a car to a guy that had to be 400lbs. He had to sit on top of the seat, as his butt wouldn't fit in it. His legs filled the area under the front hoop to overflowing. He was a good two inches above the roll bar, couldn't shift, couldn't turn the wheel, couldn't see the mirrors. Johnny made the rep refund the guy's rental. So there are people that shouldn't race. But not those relatively normal. I guess my point is that for maximum participation and competition, you shouldn't be handicapped by the formula.
So, instead of making a lot of emotional mumbo jumbo, here's real numbers beyond gross and driver weight.
First off, the issue of carrying extra weight in the car being a huge safety issue is pure and simple bunk. Those who believe otherwise can present data. If the car can safely carry the equivalent mass of a large driver (say Zebra’s 240lb) then it will safely carry equivalent ballast throughout its entire performance regime. It's no more a matter of ingenuity and fabrication skills than any of the whizzy bits already on the car. I'd bet a lot of the lightweight guys that are already carrying ballast have ICP calipers, aluminum CVs, small batteries, and other lightweight stuff to start with. The guy I bought my car from was very small and had purchased a lightweight 1-piece nose, oddessy battery, and then had to put 30lb of lead in the car back when the minimum was 1175!
Zebra didn't even propose a weight and it seems a few of you assumed he was suggesting a 240 lb driver design weight. As I posted earlier, the driver design weight of these cars is 165lb (I got that from Alan Cornock in the UK several years back) and the average driver weight as reported in the poll is 185lb. From the poll, only 19% or so of drivers are at or below design weight. There was something like four guys in the 135 lb class outside the poll limits. An increase to 185 would put approximately 50% above and 50% below. So, a +20 lb weight increase is not out of line. That would still make me for example, 30 lbs over in my current car.
]Now the cheapest weight reduction, and better for me, would be to take those 30lb off my a$$, but, we have to deal with realities here. 10lb, maybe, 15 on the outside, but 30 or more would require some major medical emergency. If it was easy, everyone would look like Europeans - although the easiest way to do that is to move to Europe, work shorter days, take longer vacations, and walk to most places. Let's not forget that each generation regardless of what part of the world it starts in is bigger than the last - and that doesn't mean fatter!
Looking at weight reduction analysis on my car for example:
Baseline: '94 VD FC, Avon tires, aluminum diff, penske 2-ways, Jabrock sidepod floors and stainless radiator trays, stainless header, mag uprights, 1 brass radiator and 1 AL radiator, oil cooler in sidepod, braided earls lines, LD20s all around, steel oil pan and AL valve cover (heavy but it doesn't ever leak), 3/16 AL floor (same weight as stock steel floor) I understand the later VDs are a bit heavier, which would make sense considering they are a few inches wider and 6" longer.
Current weight without driver and fuel - 1006
My weight - 215
Gear weight - 13
1 gal reserve fuel - 7
You can see that if I weighed 165 the car would be nearly spot-on 1190.
Total end of race weight - 1241
Min weight - 1190
Target weight loss - 50 lbs
Weight saving concepts (low hanging fruit e.g. easily fabricated or purchased, with significant weight savings
Item weight savings cost Cost per pound
3/16 -> 1/8 AL floor ~7lb $500 $71
ICP calipers ~17lb $800 $47
Varley -> Odessy battery ~7.5lb $130 $17
ARB adjuster delete ~3lb $0 $0
Mag bellhousing ~13lb $800 $61
AL radiator trays ~2lb $50 $25
AL radiator left side ~4lb $300 $75
AL cv joints ~4.5lb $750 $166
Tilton Lightweight Super Starter ~4lb $350 $87
Total ~62 lb $3680 ~$60
So it's realtively easy, but fairly expensive for me to make min weight @1190 for an investment of $2400 (leaving the floor as-is and not using the CV joints). At 1210, I could drop the hard to find bell and expensive starter for another $1000 savings. $1400 - that's reasonable and doable.
Other stuff (high cost or low payoff) - maybe another 16 lb total at significant cost (at least $9K), some loss of durability, reliability, and capability
Smaller shocks and springs
Fabric oil lines
Mag valve cover
AL oil pan
Plywood sidepod floors
Custom C&R radiators with built-in oil cooler
Radio delete
Jump plug delete
5" clutch
Gun Drilled Axles
Lightened rotors
Swiss Cheesed Hubs
Beyond that we have to start cheatin'
Aluminum flywheel
lightweight crank
carbon bodywork
So for an increase in cost of half the value of the car, one could carve out about 75lb total, less on a newer Van Diemen.
Weight increase analysis:
Similarly, one can see the areas where expensive whizzy bits can be replaced with stock items to get the weight up. If you are using the nose box battery position then there's space under your legs in the original battery location for 98lb of lead (240 cu in @ 708 lb/cu ft), the area under the seat has 120 cu in of space that will hold an additional 50lbs. Both areas have substantial structure to both mount and contain the ballast and it's about as low and central to the car as you can get. Using the Varley in the standard battery location is 17 lbs more than the odessy, and the nose box battery area will hold 75lbs of ballast (but one might want to make the top and bottom skins a gauge or so thicker). The area under the wing pole will hold at least 30 lb, that's where the guy I bought my car from had it. Lead is currently a buck a pound or so. So it's realtively simple to add 170 lb. But then that would assume you only weigh 10 lbs or built the worlds most flyweight Citation to start, maybe both.
So the 135lb super flyweight guys would need to put a 10x4x3 inch slab in the Varley location. That really doesn't seem too tough. I think the real issue here is that people are pissed that their high cost whizzy bits would be compromized by additional ballast (although the rotating mass reductions still apply), and then there's the usual approach to change, which lately seems to be to blow off the concept rather than back it up with data and dicuss it.
Sorry about the rant, but with the whole FF debacle over the last decade, the zetec fight, and now a bunch of new classes and rules flying fast and loose, you'd think we'd learn to engage in reasonable debate.
Soshouldn't the gold standard for discussion be would this (insert new proposal here) be good or bad for FC?