Zetec - water in exhaust

[quickmag]

I am getting small amounts (a teaspoon or 2) of water in my exhaust pipe. Need to figure out where it is coming from.
Compression is good across all 4 cylinders, as is leak down. Cold/warm pressure testing (+/- 15 PSI) on the cooling system also shows no leak down. Any Ideas?

Also looking for a Zetec motor rebuild shop in Western Canada or Northwest US. Recommendations?

Bri.

[Charles Warner]

Are you losing water?

[quickmag]

Are you losing water?

Yes, header tank is down a bit. Nothing major. Probably wouldn't even think about it except for the water in the exhaust pipe makes me worry.

[BeerBudgetRacing]

Do you have a scope?

https://www.amazon.com/Two-Way-Artic...dp/B0DGSSJQN5/

To see if any of the cylinders are steam cleaned?
Generally that would come out as steam/white smoke thought and not 'water'.

Does the 'teaspoon' re-appear between sessions?

Since you lose water I think it's a pinhole near and exhaust port that squirts into the exhaust as the cooling system pressures down. Haven't looked at the cooling passages in the head to see how close they get to the exhaust ports.

Pull the headers and pressurize the cooling system and see if you see water in the exhaust ports.

[douglap1]

I am getting small amounts (a teaspoon or 2) of water in my exhaust pipe. Need to figure out where it is coming from.
Compression is good across all 4 cylinders, as is leak down. Cold/warm pressure testing (+/- 15 PSI) on the cooling system also shows no leak down. Any Ideas?

Also looking for a Zetec motor rebuild shop in Western Canada or Northwest US. Recommendations?

Bri.

Guessing your exhaust temperature in Calgary could be 40 F in the morning, which could result in condensation on start-up?

[Purple Frog]

I think we need more info. When do you see this tablespoon of water? Right at start up of a cold engine?

[quickmag]

Guessing your exhaust temperature in Calgary could be 40 F in the morning, which could result in condensation on start-up?

Yes it could be, except that the coolant level in the header tank when down as well, so condensation probably not.

[quickmag]

I think we need more info. When do you see this tablespoon of water? Right at start up of a cold engine?

Noticed a few drops of water at the end of the collector at a cold start trying to put the car in the trailer. Pulled the collector off, tablespoon of fluid in the collector.
Had been sitting for about 2-3 weeks since the last race. Engine started, at the last race, to seeming be low on power below 4,000 RPM and not pull that well.

[tlracer]

Yes it could be, except that the coolant level in the header tank when down as well, so condensation probably not.

As you've done compression & leakdown tests already, it's probably worth trying to separate the 'collector' and 'header tank' concerns:

Especially in cold/damp weather it's remarkable how much condensation an engine produces - although maybe it shouldn't be as CO2 and water are the primary products of combustion!

I'd start and run it from cold, up to normal temperature and measure the approximate amount of water. Then shut it off, leave for 5 minutes or so and run again for an equivalent length of time. You may need to rig up some sort of air blower onto the rad(s) to keep the temperature from going too high. Check for water again.

If it is condensation from cold start, then the second time won't produce anything like as much water.

Regarding the level in the header, water expands when hot/contracts when cold, so is it possible this is what you're seeing in the apparent level changes?

[quickmag]

A
Regarding the level in the header, water expands when hot/contracts when cold, so is it possible this is what you're seeing in the apparent level changes?

Unfortunately, not. I check the water level at the start (ambient) before engine start and then the next day. So, any heat expansion should be gone.

Pull the headers and pressurize the cooling system and see if you see water in the exhaust ports.

On a 2004 Mygale FC they only way the headers come off, is to pull the motor first.

Since you lose water I think it's a pinhole near and exhaust port that squirts into the exhaust as the cooling system pressures down.

I like the idea. Not sure how to test for it - other then pull the motor, remove the head and have it crack tested/magnafluxed (sp)..

Before I pull the motor, I would like (to some level of confidence) know what the problem is. Otherwise its just a "hope you can find a problem" rebuild.

[quickmag]

I would like to thank everyone for their responses/inputs on this problem . Gives me a few ideas to test/try . Keep them coming.

Bri.

[BeerBudgetRacing]

On a 2004 Mygale FC they only way the headers come off, is to pull the motor first.

That's inconvenient

[billtebbutt]

Have you done as a previous poster suggested re pressurizing the cooling system? These are inexpensive tools to buy, hand operated, easy. Yet they will most definitely tell you if you have the SMALLEST cooling system leak - the gauge will slowly go down towards zero.

Pressurize it to say 18-20 PSI, and leave it be for a few hours. If you have any leak, the gauge will tell you. Do this with the engine ice cold btw.

FWIW, I do this every time I replace a rad, engine, etc.

cheers,
bt

[Fred Michael]

Another possibility is that the water in the pipe is just condensation but you are losing water in the system due to a faulty cap

[quickmag]

Have you done as a previous poster suggested re pressurizing the cooling system? These are inexpensive tools to buy, hand operated, easy. Yet they will most definitely tell you if you have the SMALLEST cooling system leak - the gauge will slowly go down towards zero.

FWIW, I do this every time I replace a rad, engine, etc.

See my first post - yes done a cold/warm leak down on the coolant. Might do it again at a higher pressure. I too do a pressure test on a engine change - saves leaking all over the engine bay

[billtebbutt]

See my first post - yes done a cold/warm leak down on the coolant. Might do it again at a higher pressure. I too do a pressure test on a engine change - saves leaking all over the engine bay

My apologies - I didn't see that. Do it cold, at a higher pressure (I take mine to over whatever the cap is rated for - that way if you still get no pressure bleed down on the gauge even overnight, as Fred says, you may have a duff cap).

I still maintain that if the gauge does not bleed down, you cannot have a water leak in the system - I cannot see how that would be possible

best,
bt

[tlracer]

Unfortunately, not. I check the water level at the start (ambient) before engine start and then the next day. So, any heat expansion should be gone.

In that case I'd be looking at a faulty/weak cap, or some other similar minor venting/leak (assuming you're not losing a huge amount of water each time).