Hub/bearing removal from cracked VD upright

[redcar9]

I'm doing some hopefully final prep work on the project that never seems to end.
I found cracks on the uprights and ordered new ones from primusracingparts.com
Does anyone know how to remove the hub/bearing from the old upright?
How about removing the lower pin?

https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fo/07rne...=e2gdypme&dl=0

[alangbaker]

First of all, make sure that those are actually cracks. They might just be surface defects in the casting.

And if you do need to disassemble things, there's a kit made by Sport:

http://www.rsport.us/Rsport_VD_Hub_Tool.html

I'm not sure which version of the kit you need for your car—I think just the "late model" stuff, and yours appears to be of the same vintage as my own, so I'd be very interested to know—but a phone call to them would probably tell you what you need to buy.

Hope that helps.

[Rick Kirchner]

that kit makes things a helluva lot easier

[Lyngengr]

How about removing the lower pin?

The old style "kingpins" had sleeves around the actual shaft, so it is very difficult to remove this style. I had to apply some heat to the bottom of the upright to get the old ones out. Then, throw those in the trash and buy the ones with a shoulder from Primus.

[BeerBudgetRacing]

I'm not sure which version of the kit you need for your car—I think just the "late model" stuff, and yours appears to be of the same vintage as my own, so I'd be very interested to know—but a phone call to them would probably tell you what you need to buy.

I purchased the kit recently and thought I was missing a piece. The kit has changed from what shows on the website.
One kit does it all now. But yes, a phone call or email to confirm.

[Raceworks]

If it's anything like the 99's, the first step is you've got to take those long allen bolts out that ring the stub axle. That'll get the CV housing off as well.

Then you use a tool like that one from R Sport (mine is from Comprent) to get the hub out: the three pins slide trough the holes in the hub and then the top plate is screwed down with either the nut that comes with the tool or a wheel nut depending on the tool.

The bearing retainer bolts in and those tiny #8 allen bolts like to strip so you may end up having to drill the heads off. I use a hydraulic press to press the bearing out.

On the upright pin, they like to rust to the bearing so get some penetrating oil (Blaster PB is my favorite) and soak the **** out of it. Then let it set for a day or two. Usually judicious use of a pry bar and / or hammer gets it free pretty quickly after that.

You might find penetrating oil useful on the other disassembly steps if these assemblies haven't been serviced within the last year.

[Rick Silver]

I would definitely replace the uprights. I personally would put on the new style billet uprights you can get from Brad at Primus, much more stout than the cast uprights and same price. The pin needs to be replaced - it is a consumable and they break, I had one break at Summit Point this year.

Regarding the bearing install, I prefer to heat the casting with a low temp torch and the bearing race will just drop out. Then for install, put the casting in the oven and bearing race in the freezer, it will just drop in. You need to get a tool like RSport sells to press the hub off.

The little retainer screws like to strip the small allen wrench key. I use a dremel tool to put a flat in the head and they always come out.

[kea]

The little retainer screws like to strip the small allen wrench key. I use a dremel tool to put a flat in the head and they always come out.

I use a hammer and an impact-driver, with the appropriate allen socket.
If you are not familiar with an impact driver, see your local Mac Tool or Snap-on dealer.