VD throw out bearing rebuild ‘90-96

[upnorthelan]

Hi All,

Firstly I apologize if there’s a thread on this topic. If so, I couldn’t find it. Only a more modern version of the Hewland.

My motor is out and I’ve heard this is a smart thing to do while I have access to it. I was able to pop out the slave “piston” (?) from the cylinder with compressed air and those seals where straight forward. It looks as though I also need to do 2 seals maybe for the body of the cylinder that might come out like a cartridge for lack of a better layman’s description?

I’m assuming the 4 small allen head bolts are my next step. The two and 3 and 9 o’clock came free easily, but the upper and lower bolts won’t come out so far. I’ve heated briefly and thunked a little, but do not want to strip those little allens. I’m not sure if I should proceed and potentially screw things up?

I also read that there are two brands of seals, one being superior? Mine are not labeled. I bought them through Pegasus.

Thanks for any advice,
Mike

p.s. the picture is rotated 90* for some reason:/

[JHerscher]

As I recall, the 2 allen head bolts at 3 & 9 o'clock are removed. Then the cylinder is jacked out by threading screws (probably 10-32) into the holes drilled at 12 & 6 o'clock. Thread them into the jacking holes evenly; you don't want it to get cockeyed.

Once out, clean everything well. Reassembly is straightforward. Use a quality rubber grease - the thin o-rings are easy to get nicked and in my experience the grease is more effective at preventing that than brake fluid.

Some put a thin layer of Ultra-RTV on the flange as an extra precaution.

There are devices that people have made that can allow you to test for leaks it before bolting it to the back of the engine. Or you can put it together and test it before everything is buttoned up and fluids in.

You are fortunate that the previous owner drilled and tapped the 12 & 6 o'clock holes. It is a royal PITA to get out if they are not there.

As far as I know, the two screws you mention are stuck do not matter in this rebuild. I think they are from when they drilled the fluid passages but I am probably wrong.

No comment on the o-ring kits. Been too many years for my opinion to matter.

John

[Steve Demeter]

I think if you look at the FF forum there is a fairly recent thread on this topic. Just a thought.

[upnorthelan]

Thanks John & Steve!

[Rick Kirchner]

IIRC, the dimensions of the standard British parts are off just a tad and thus prone to leaking. The O-ring kit from Taylor Race Engineering has a couple of the o-rings slightly oversized to fix this.

The biggest risk in putting the thing back together and back in is shaving an o-ring in the process. In putting the cylinder together I always use a generous amount of silicone grease and often heat the outer parts while freezing the inner parts - every little bit helps, as does a press and a couple soft pieces of wood so you don't goober up the aluminum.

The biggest risk is having the outer rear o-ring shaved by the two little inlet passages, which have razor sharp edges. If you can get in there with a very small fine abrasive ball and take the edge off of those it will help. don't forget to flush! Then again, lots of silicone grease.

I've also learned that after sitting for a winter don't get in and stomp the clutch. Try to get some heat in the oil so they can relax a bit from the set they take.