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  1. #1
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    Default Techniques for making radiator screens?

    Hey all,

    couldn't quite turn up what I was looking for in a search.

    I'm looking to make some radiator/oil cooler screens for my car.

    I found what looks like suitable material: https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/gr...GroupID=SCREEN

    but I haven't really found any pictures or writeups on the best way to go about actually making those into a self-contained screen. I've seen some where guys seem to wrap the mesh around a small aluminum tube frame of some kind and that turns out pretty well, and I've seen others that look like they're basically stapled in place, which is...not as nice.

    thought I'd see if there are knowledge, pictures, or links out there for making nice radiator mesh screens?

    Cheers,

    -Jake

  2. #2
    Senior Member kea's Avatar
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    Default radiator screen

    Materials are commonly called hardware cloth. Available at most local Hardware stores.
    Photo is of a 1990 F-3000 car here at the shop.
    Hope this gives you some ideas.
    Keith
    Averill Racing Stuff, Inc.
    www.racing-stuff.com
    248-585-9139

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  4. #3
    Classifieds Super License racerdad2's Avatar
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    Default

    You might try auto seat cover hog rings to attach the cloth to the tubing ?
    "An analog man living in a digital world"

  5. #4
    Global Moderator Mike B's Avatar
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    Default

    Those make great tear-off catchers. The perfect way to overheat your engine.
    I suggest safety wiring a sheet of aluminum honeycomb http://www.avtcomposites.com/cgi-bin...&category=1220
    directly to the heat exchanger. This way you have a lot larger surface area in case you collect leaves or tear-offs.
    Mike Beauchamp
    RF95 Prototype 2

    Get your FIA rain lights here:
    www.gyrodynamics.net/product/cartek-fia-rain-light/

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  7. #5
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    Default Things to consider

    A couple of things to consider when working with wire cloth. First is the % open area of the mesh you want to use. Wire cloth consists of open space and wire, the difference gives you % open area. The items listed in Pegasus have the following open areas:

    4 x 4 x .047 65.9 %
    6 x 6 x .035 62.7%
    10 x 10 x .025 56.3%

    As you can see, this can have quite an effect on air flow. Keep it in mind.

    As far as fastening mesh, an elegant way is to wrap each wire around a small rod frame shaped to the opening and small tabs welded to the frame. This is a time consuming and difficult way as the wires do not want to stay tight to the rod and there a a lot of wires to wrap. Spot welding the wires to a rod and then trimming the excess off is another way that works quite well. A small piece of aluminum u-edge wrapped around the wire also works quite well, but is more difficult to shape around corners. I have also soldered screen to flat bar frames using stainless flux and 50-50 solder.

    If the opening is rectangular you can just fold the screen over on itself one or two times forming a hem that you can then screw through. Simple, but does not look very nice. your choice.

    These are a couple of thoughts from a person who has been weaving wire cloth since 1965. Just my $0.02.

    john f

  8. #6
    Contributing Member DaveW's Avatar
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    One thing to remember when configuring the screens is that you want a lot of screen area at as little of an angle from the car CL as possible so that when you have an "off", the grass you pick up goes to the rear and leaves a lot of remaining area for air to get through.

    If you make the screens at 90-degrees to the car CL, they don't have much area and will clog easily.

    Also, aligned more parallel to the car CL makes them less likely to get punctured if something big and sharp hits them.
    Dave Weitzenhof

  9. #7
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    Default

    Nomex Honeycomb Radiator Protectors. Sorry, couldn't find a link, but as found at SpeedwayMotors.com. Various size sheets, easily cut, very strong, nearly full free area, self supporting...great item in my experience.

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  11. #8
    Classifieds Super License BeerBudgetRacing's Avatar
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    Senior Member SStadel's Avatar
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    Use the honeycomb. The head of zip ties will hold it in. Use a second zip tie head behind the radiator to tighten the zip tie.
    Competition One Racing
    racer6@mchsi.com

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    Classifieds Super License BeerBudgetRacing's Avatar
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    I'm thinking there's a lot of good advice, but it really depends on your environment.....

    I had an off Friday, nothing but rocks and dirt. The hardware cloth is what most people out west use. Keep the rocks out of the side pods... Grass? Not here...

    Denver probably has both grass and rocks though....

  14. #11
    Contributing Member Earley Motorsports's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BeerBudgetRacing View Post

    Good price too.
    Graham

  15. #12
    Senior Member Brian C in Az's Avatar
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    I realize that most guys install their protectors right in front of the radiator (even touching it), but that is the worst place from an air flow perspective and also from a protection perspective. The air needs a straight section after the screen or honeycomb to straighten out the turbulence caused by the protective material. Also, if a large enough object strikes the protector, you don't want that object to be able to contact the radiator. If the protector is right next to the radiator, there is no buffer zone. Place the protection as far forward as possible and the airflow will be better and you will have better protection as well.

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  17. #13
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    Default

    A good source for wire cloth in small quantities is McMaster-Carr Supply.
    ( mcmaster.com ) They have many different materials and generally list all free areas and wire sizes. They also take credit cards from people that don't have accounts and have very good relationships with UPS and FedEX because of the volume of shipping they do so you may get your shipment sooner than from another source. And warehouses all over the place.
    Honest, I don't get a commision!

  18. #14
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    Default welded

    Quote Originally Posted by ChristopherBernard View Post
    A good source for wire cloth in small quantities is McMaster-Carr Supply.
    ( mcmaster.com ) They have many different materials and generally list all free areas and wire sizes. They also take credit cards from people that don't have accounts and have very good relationships with UPS and FedEX because of the volume of shipping they do so you may get your shipment sooner than from another source. And warehouses all over the place.
    Honest, I don't get a commision!
    If you are going to use the 4 mesh (1/4' on centers) mesh, I would strongly suggest using the welded variety. The wires will not fall out when you cut it and the tails can be trimmed flush when cutting. I don't get a commission either

    john f

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    Thanks for all the answers guys, much appreciated. This should definitely get me going!

    -Jake

  20. #16
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    Default radiater screening

    Think a little simpler- 1/4 " thick foam air conditioner filter material. Been using it for 16 yrs. on both the radiater and oil cooler ,hillclimbing with a Wheeler FSV. If you are concerned about rocks use two layers-since it is flexible the heavier stuff will bounce off. Probably cost less than $5 and can be attached with ties.

    Ted K.

  21. #17
    Contributing Member DaveW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TED K. View Post
    Think a little simpler- 1/4 " thick foam air conditioner filter material. Been using it for 16 yrs. on both the radiater and oil cooler ,hillclimbing with a Wheeler FSV. If you are concerned about rocks use two layers-since it is flexible the heavier stuff will bounce off. Probably cost less than $5 and can be attached with ties.

    Ted K.


    I would think that would be too restrictive for optimal air flow.
    Dave Weitzenhof

  22. #18
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    Default radiater/ oil cooler filter

    Quote Originally Posted by DaveW View Post


    I would think that would be too restrictive for optimal air flow.
    Maybe you should consider the DENSITY of filter foam-it not only works well based on my hillclimbing experience [ over 20 deg. drop in water temp. and oil temp. from starting line to finish line in 1 or 2 mile H/C] and the same effect at Pocono Vintage Race or at VIR. I use a fan to keep the water temp. down before starting -in a line of10-15 cars- but turn the fan off on the starting line.

    Ted K. 1970 Calwell D 10 FSV [ w/2L. Type 1]
    1978 Wheeler FSV [w/200 H/P Rabbit]

  23. #19
    Contributing Member DaveW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TED K. View Post
    Maybe you should consider the DENSITY of filter foam-it not only works well based on my hillclimbing experience [ over 20 deg. drop in water temp. and oil temp. from starting line to finish line in 1 or 2 mile H/C] and the same effect at Pocono Vintage Race or at VIR. I use a fan to keep the water temp. down before starting -in a line of10-15 cars- but turn the fan off on the starting line.

    Ted K. 1970 Calwell D 10 FSV [ w/2L. Type 1]
    1978 Wheeler FSV [w/200 H/P Rabbit]
    I was thinking in terms of road racing, where you are hard on it continuously for 1/2 hour or so. As noted in a previous post:
    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    A couple of things to consider when working with wire cloth. First is the % open area of the mesh you want to use. Wire cloth consists of open space and wire, the difference gives you % open area. The items listed in Pegasus have the following open areas:

    4 x 4 x .047 65.9 %
    6 x 6 x .035 62.7%
    10 x 10 x .025 56.3%

    As you can see, this can have quite an effect on air flow. Keep it in mind.
    ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    So, even denser wire cloth can seriously restrict flow, and, while I have no personal-use data on anything other than 4x4 wire cloth, I made my comment as something to watch out for.

    YMMV
    Dave Weitzenhof

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