CR-10 S5. 500x500x500 build cube, almost 20"! My Ender 3 can sit completely within the build plate, thing is huge.Quote:
Originally Posted by BeerBudgetRacing
If anyone needs something big printed I'm looking for excuses to use it.
Printable View
CR-10 S5. 500x500x500 build cube, almost 20"! My Ender 3 can sit completely within the build plate, thing is huge.Quote:
Originally Posted by BeerBudgetRacing
If anyone needs something big printed I'm looking for excuses to use it.
Add a Sonic Pad to it. https://www.creality.com/products/creality-sonic-padQuote:
Originally Posted by Mike B
Lots of features AND prints much faster.
i guess it's time for me to go back to the drawing board :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Mike B
been tinkering on cleaning some things up on my C2 restomod.
I'm considering buying a Prusia XL, 14 X 14 X14 build volume. I'll need to build an enclosure for it, but with multiple toolheads and the high quality extruders they use I'm sure it will be heads and tails above my Qidi x-max.
I've long though that a big enough printer bed, coupled with a suitable interlocking part design, could provide some wonderful ability to print out molds for new bodywork, much easier and more accurate than more typical mold construction methods...Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike B
A friend of mine started on a low end printer then bought a Prusa. He was so impressed be bought a second one. He figures it is about as close to set and forget it printing as you can get. I know i find myself adjusting my Ender about once a week. Even at its best there always seems to be something.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick Kirchner
The real way to get that done is with a 4x8 shopbot with a slab of high density modeling foam - but not particularly cheap. You could do a complete set of fenders at a time, or a hood/deck/front valance. For a formula car or sports racer you'd slice the body and then glue the foam chunks together. Unfortunately I couldn't find a current price on the stuff but 4x8x1 is likely well over $1k/sheetQuote:
Originally Posted by 924RACR
My Qidi is acceptable - for the most part. The standard hotends with a Capricorn tube work OK, but I worry about long prints with ABS and the tube melting and clogging (got.a 12 hr one going now). I bought their all-metal hot end and it leaks like a sieve. You need a separate power supply/controller setup so you can work on the thing on the bench, otherwise it has to be done on top of the printer, and that's a PITA. Otherwise, once it cools you cant's effectively work on it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Livengood
The Qidi produces decent functional prints at .4 to 1.0 nozzle sizes, but getting a really nice surface finish can be a challenge. Small stuff with a .1 or .2 nozzle is fiddly. The fact that it has an enclosure and a heavy cubic frame really helps, but the cheap extruder is the limitation, both in quality and speed. I cant push it to more than 70mm/s. There's a user group on FB that has adapted high quality extruders to the machine, and that's OK, I just want to be able to buy one as a kit. I didn't buy a printer to spend all my time modding it.
Most of the printers work OK with PLA but if you are using PETG, ABS, Nylon, or filled materials they take a lot more tuning.
I recently added the Sonic Pad to my Ender 3 S1 Pro.Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Livengood
Does a much better job at controlling the printing. Quieter, faster (60%), with a web interface, camera feed and more
They are what they are. Have less than $500 invested. The Prusa I'd choose would likely be the XL - but that is $2k.
I think the Enders are great to learn with. I'm still learning.
They have certainly put more people into the 3d market, consuming supplies, etc. and others like Prusa should be thanking them.
A year ago I would never have considered spending $2k on a printer. $350 felt like a gamble - I took it.
Now, my mind has 'adjusted' and I am considering more...
We have a 4x8x2 Shopbot that we have used for making Dauntless & Stohr, and customer patterns from which to pull molds since 2008. While this technique is capable of much greater accuracy and speed than the old-school handmade body bucks, it is still a time- and materials-intensive process. The process also requires some expertise in true 3D modelling, which itself has a long and expensive learning curve. The bottom line is that there really are no easy, affordable, and quick shortcuts.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick Kirchner
The first thing I did with my Ender 3 V2 was add a direct drive extruder. Micro Swiss I think it was. It runs like a champ. My issue is almost always bed leveling. I built out a dedicated work space for the thing and that has helped a lot, but it still moves around. I print almost exclusively with .5 these days. It works well for me. For larger prints I have considered larger ends, I just never get there since the Ender doesn't have the work space really.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick Kirchner
I don't know what Sonic Pad is, but I ran OctoPrint on mine for a while. I got tired of messing with it so I went back to the stock control.Quote:
Originally Posted by BeerBudgetRacing
I traded old PC parts at the start of the pandemic for my Ender 3 v2. Later I changed the hot end, extended Z, and changed Y to a linear rails. This took care of all the issues with it that aren't related to the constantly changing bed height.
For all those on the prusa train you might want to re-think your choices these days especially if going to a larger format printer. They are the apple of the printer world yes they work well but man are they overpriced.
If going larger format look into the Bambu labs X1C or a Voron.
Take at look at these guys. They have amazing technology and doing amazing things in the aviation/military fields
https://www.thermwood.com/brochures/LSAM_AP_HR.pdf
Not sure if that is a criticism or an endorsement. I ran a five year study of the cost of Apple vs Android (of various hardware makers) at my last company and despite the higher upfront cost we found significant long terms savings in Apple products. This was for cell phones. The conclusion was that support costs and hardware failures were far lower with Apple products. This didn't even include lost work time which would have further made Apple products the better choice financially.Quote:
Originally Posted by RSS
Prusa is a solid pick, but after talking to & working with a couple really sharp 3D Printer guys, if you can afford one & fit what you need, the Bambu X1 Carbon truly is set & forget. Bambu was apparently started by the same people who made DJI drones big time. My friend has 2 for his business, and is buying another. This printer has all the hop-ups out of the box, and can print carbon fiber right away... and it is FAST.Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Livengood
https://us.store.bambulab.com/products/x1-carbon-combo
https://youtu.be/Awi8RA48egQ
Chris - have you swapped bed springs for silicone spacers yet? Those are huge - no resonance to loosen them up.Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Livengood
Remember, just like on our spring perches they need sufficient pre-load to keep from backing off.
I made a device that allows me to put a dial indicator in where the extruder goes on the carriage. Then I run the leveling program, and I can get it to a half-thou across the build surface. there's more variance in the build surface due to getting the decal to lay flat with no bubbles, than there is in my leveling process. Then I replace the indicator with the extruder, set z with paper/friction, and fine tune with z-offset. I used to have to do that in the slicer but Qidi now offers live Z adjustment at .02mm/step with a firmware upgrade.
Some build plates aren't flat, especially when hot, and that causes people a lot of headaches. you'd have to build a fixture with a power supply, heat it up, and then flycut it to get it flat if you have that problem - or buy new parts.
We used a lot of big printers when I worked for the USMC. Had one large enough to print a replacement road wheel for a british tracked snow vehicle.Quote:
Originally Posted by LJennings
That looks like a Qidi x-max with a much better extruder and the Prusa multi-material jig.Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt Clark
To me, the Prusas are very much like an apple product, especially if you buy them assembled (but hey, if you can assemble a van diemen you ought to be able to handle a printer). I buy Apple products because I had PCs from the pre-windows days (majorly user unfriendly) got Apples when I moved to the west coast and loved them. Transitioned back to PCs at my wife's insistence, and the Apple commercial was true in our household "I'm a repairman in my own home!!). After a couple of generations of desktop PCs and multiple component and OS failures I went back to Apples and never had a major problem since. Had PCs at work due to the Navy's idiocy with IT and it was nothing but grief. Had to stay with PCs for the AIM though, and they're still a PITA, just not as big a one as they used to be.
the user support base for Prusa is pretty amazing too.
Qidi has great technical support, very responsive, but their all-metal hotend was not thought through very well.
You might have to scroll a bit:Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Livengood
Quote:
Originally Posted by BeerBudgetRacing
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick Kirchner
I have not tried silicone spacers. I did buy stiffer springs. I also tried to mount the bed via three points instead of four, but that actually made it worse. My bed is a bit convex, high in the middle. It's not been a huge deal, but sometimes I have to run clearance tight in the center if I am going to do a large print. On tall prints I struggle with the bed being on four posts with no lateral support, so the top of print tends to move around.
I've had a prusa i3 for many years, Bambu X1C is the first printer I've seen that has actually made me consider upgrading from my old bedslinger. Has pretty much every feature you could want.Quote:
Originally Posted by RSS
I don't see how you can effectively level it with four. 3 makes a plane. The Qidi has two in the front, one in the rear center. My scales are a PITA because of four contact points. I'm betting you are high in the middle because two opposite corners are "tight".Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Livengood
I'd make a dial indicator jig, loosen up all the leveling knobs, and start playing around with it - including putting a good straightedge across the bed when it's not constrained at all.
Core XY/cartesian is definitely the way to go. As the build area gets bigger it's hard to sling around a big print and a heavy heated bed. The mass of the extruder is always the same so the control system can be tuned tighter.Quote:
Originally Posted by Spengo
The new Prusa is a Core XY machine.
I just uploaded an .stl for the Hewland gear storage post thing: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5891462
This is just a copy of the injection molded version that Pegasus sells. Post some pics if you print some!
https://www.apexspeed.com/forums/att...d=106508&stc=1https://www.apexspeed.com/forums/att...d=106509&stc=1
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick Kirchner
3 points make sense to me as well, but the ender for whatever seems to prefer 4. The dial indicator method sure would make adjustment a lot easier. I might have to print up a mount for an indicator. Ideally the bed would mount on like a spherical bearing and then have two adjustment screws. This would remove the lateral slop the ender 3 v2 bed has. It's really only problematic on very tall prints, it would be nice to reliably get to like 14" though.
Speaking of tall prints I was around 12" up and there is just enough cumulative slop in everything that the machine crashed and ruined the part with about 2 hours left on a 26 hour print. Otherwise I have had good prints lately. My PETG game is spot on currently. I am working on some molds to make wing shoes for the Firman F2000 platform since they aren't available anymore. It's going to be a lot of printing. I might have to buy those silicon spacers sooner rather than later.
It is a "best fit" system. It calculates a mean leveled plane from all 4 points.Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Livengood
We do this at work on some of our engine pieces as well.
I usually don't keep a rain light on the car. In SoCal, it's often "if it rains, put it back on the trailer". My rain tires are some ancient Hankooks bought old in 2015....
For years I had a cheapo LED marker light as a rain light, with the wire coiled up in case I needed to hook it up, but out of the way otherwise. But then one day, said cheapo marker light's bracket experienced metal fatigue and departed. I decided I wouldn't put one on again unless someone insisted.
Then came last weekend at Big Willow, where it rained on and off and the possibility that I might need to activate it before sliding off in a crash came to mind.
Found these on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BQHYFSKZ...t_details&th=1
Hella bright, low power, and in a heavy metal shell that's potted. They come with a sort of odd rubber grommet that looks like it is designed to attach to a metal tube.
So I learned how to import airfoils into F360 and designed this underwing mount. Unfortunately unlike Chris my PETG game has fallen off (and the reason I haven't printed any LD-200 jigs lately). I changed to the latest Simplify 3d at the same time I had some extruder issues and haven't been able to get that mojo back.
Overall, not bad though.
Playing around and designed and printed my own USB powered led name box for my sim racing seat. Turned out pretty cool....
https://www.apexspeed.com/forums/att...d=106904&stc=1
any have experience with printing metal? is aluminum an option? application would be for a swivel t-stat housing water neck. I need a custom angle that nobody sells.. working with Sean Kelly to get the 3d drawing done soon.
wanted to see if anyone knows if 3d printed metal aluminum will work for this. water psi set at 16psi by the radiator cap.
it is technically doable with a properly equipped home 3D printer, using metal impregnated filament, but then you have to sinter it... which can be a hassle.Quote:
Originally Posted by mikey
https://www.matterhackers.com/store/...et/sk/MPQJ2NTV
You could try some of the nylons available. I really like Taulman Alloy 910 for a pure nylon and Matterhackers NylonX carbon fiber infused if you need something more rigid. They won't melt and degrade the way PLA does and they're stronger than cast aluminum parts in many ways. You need something with an all-metal hot end and also a hardened steel (or harder) nozzle for the CF stuff. I also recommend a G10 build plate and enclosure to help with warping, cardboard box is fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by mikey
Made a set of steering rack locks for setting toe. Certainly not an original idea but I added small tabs to make them easier to remove, or possibly to safety wire a larger "remove before flight" flag.
https://www.apexspeed.com/forums/att...d=107233&stc=1https://www.apexspeed.com/forums/att...d=107234&stc=1
Speaking of setting toe, I usually try to use Gammon reels for my alignment strings but they don't have any provision for mounting to anything. I printed a housing that they slide into and bolted it to some extra 80/20 extrusion I had on hand. Overkill? Probably, but now i have enough adjustment to use these bars on multiple cars.
https://www.apexspeed.com/forums/att...d=107239&stc=1https://www.apexspeed.com/forums/att...d=107240&stc=1https://www.apexspeed.com/forums/att...d=107241&stc=1https://www.apexspeed.com/forums/att...d=107242&stc=1
I think I posted this thing way back in the thread. It was too big and too difficult to sand down to fit
I had a couple of spools of some filament I just hate - spent a full day printing 8 minute test coupons trying to tune it in and finally gave up. Decided to use one spool to print this.
You can see in the first pic the item it replaced - a chunk of pour foam painted with epoxy I made with my first seat over 20 years ago. Being made of expanding foam it fit pretty tightly and as it aged it became harder and harder to get it out as the devices I used to provide a puller hogged out bigger and bigger holes.
I took my original STL and reduced it by 2% in x and Y in the slicer to ensure I would have enough room. It was printed with a .1 nozzle, in PETG, with about a 12% hexagonal infill, and two perimeters. Took 16 hours to print. It weighs about two pounds, the foam one was probably 1.5 pounds.
Had I been willing to use a .04/.05/.06 nozzle I could have printed the same thing (with 7% infill) and it would have weighed half as much, but would have taken over 30 hours to print.
I made some like this too. Camfer the 'corners' and they will go on and off a lot easier.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike B
I've been using Overture PLA and PETG. I bought another brand off Amazon it was junk.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick Kirchner
I know there are others about 20% cheaper but I have had Zero issues with the Overture products.
What are you using?
I did exactly that on the second set!Quote:
Originally Posted by BeerBudgetRacing
So I had a leak in a radiator. Pulled it apart to fix and found the rear end of the radiator was sitting on the frame.
The original fiberglass radiator tray had been trimmed for some reason and lacked original support so it collapsed.
So as an experiement I decided to make my own. This prototype is in PLA but I plan to print one in black PETG once I get it all right.
It's in 3 pieces because of my printer's limit (8.5) so I keyed it together.
Screws hold the front and back so the middle section is just wedged in.
Will it stay together? I think so. But with about $30 in material for a bunch of prototypes and est $10 for the final, I may just print a stare.
If it doesn't work right I'll print a mold !
Attachment 109245Attachment 109244Attachment 109243Attachment 109246
I'd print that in ABS and glue it. Petg is hard to glue and I've found it gets brittle over time. Been replacing stuff made from PETG with ABS or TPU with very little infill.
I'd print that in ABS and glue it. Petg is hard to glue and I've found it gets brittle over time. Been replacing stuff made from PETG with ABS or TPU with very little infill.
Radiator trays on the 90-96s were aluminum hat section. Found mine worn all the way through in a couple of places and starting to get into the radiators. One of the first things I did on my major rebuild in 2003 was to have those copied in stainless. 20 years on they are still perfect. One of the things that helped was to put spacers between the radiator tray edges and the floors. This raised the tray and radiator up so they were flush with the bottom, rather than hanging down and catching curbs. There's plenty of room above in the sidepod.
The fiberglass trays had a rubber strip for the radiator to rest on.
Plan to do that again. Think it'll help.
Haven't printed ABS or ASA yet. I might give it a go.
Has anyone printed or know of anyone who has printed a more aero friendly mount for an AIM smarty cam HD 2.2 camera for the top of a roll hoop on a formula car.
Brian T
Yes exactly. Did you print that yourself?
Brian
I did. I’d be happy to send you the .stl files.
Quote:
Originally Posted by GBugg
that would be great
thanks,
btomasi96@gmail.com
I'm looking to replace my Ender3 s1 pro.
I was all set on the Bambu X1C during the December sale but my order 'disappeared' and then they wouldn't honor the price. So I decided to wait. Now Bambu is caught in a pickle with their latest updates and people are jumping ship.
Now looking at the Creality K2 Plus. Reviews are good and they no longer consider Creality a hobbyist brand.
What are you all looking at as your next choice?