Build Thread: Reynard

Good news is I threw the last piece that had black mold on it out yesterday. Also more progress...

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-4...Q=w477-h635-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/k9...w=w477-h635-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/JK...w=w477-h635-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pT...g=w477-h635-no

Dave, do you have a picture I can see that bleeder system? I would not mind drilling and tapping a pipe, but I would be very nervous drilling a radiator and getting metal shavings in the coolant system.

Thanks again for the help guys, there is so much more to learn about these cars, but this one in particular seems to be a pretty neat one.

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Originally Posted by xmazdatracy

...Dave, do you have a picture I can see that bleeder system? I would not mind drilling and tapping a pipe, but I would be very nervous drilling a radiator and getting metal shavings in the coolant system....

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No, I don't have any useful pictures. But conceptually it's very simple. The water flow goes from the thermostat housing on the rear top of the engine, then right and down to an oil-water heat exchanger, then to the bottom-front of the RH radiator, then from the top rear of the RH radiator through a cross-tube (discussed below), to the top rear of the LH radiator, and out the bottom front of the LH radiator to the WP, which is on the left-front of the engine. The top of the header tank has an 18-psi radiator cap and coolant recovery hose to the coolant recovery bottle, which rarely gets anything in it.

There is 1 bleed off of the rear top of the engine (thermostat housing, which for the Pinto is in the front and is probably already directly connected to the header tank), and 1 off the cross pipe between the rear top of the 2 radiators. The cross tube is slightly raised in the middle where the bleeder goes in. Both of these bleeders go to the header tank, which is the highest point in the system.

Bottom line, any point in the system that could trap air should have and in my case has a bleed or direct vent to the header tank. That's what you should aim for.

OK, as its 70* in febuary in Chicago I have to break from working on the car to work on the tow rig. While I fix that I got a few more simple questions...

1) can I just use regular fuel hose? Why the SS lines for what 6psi?
2) 5/16 right?
3) what tire pressure do you guys start off with?
4) is it ok to leave the car on the ground, or does it have to be up on those stands all the time except for at the track?

Thanks! Im off to get my dose of ford tetanus. :D

Quote:

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Originally Posted by xmazdatracy

Why the SS lines for what 6psi?

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It's a SCCA requirement if they go through the driver compartment. That goes for vent lines as well.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 2016 SCCA General Competition Rules

All fuel, oil, and water lines, including gauge and vent lines, that pass into or through the driver/passenger compartment, shall be of steel tube or metal braided hoses or bulkheaded (Cool suit lines are exempt).

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by xmazdatracy

.......3) what tire pressure do you guys start off with?
4) is it ok to leave the car on the ground, or does it have to be up on those stands all the time except for at the track?. :D

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Recommended start pressures (cold) are 16 rear and 18 front (I assume we are talking Reynard?). Should gain about 2 pounds over the course of an on track session.

NO, does not have to be up on stands when off the track unless you're doing suspension adjustments.

uhhhh....depends on the tires.....

Hoosier, Avon, American Racer

Ah... tire pressures.
It is an art form.
I looked over a few years of notes when running a Reynard with Hoosier bias tires.
Cold pressures were all over the map. :)
The goal was to not be over 19 to 20 hot.
When the car was sorted and the weather was normal we would start with 15 all around.
Cold days with long straights, maybe higher.
Used tires usually take a bit more air. The thinner the rubber pad, the less it holds in heat.
Softer pressures can cause the carcass to flex more and thus build heat. Too soft and the footprint will distort.
Tire pressures also effect spring rate.

If i was coaching you at your first sessions, I'd start you at 15 square. After you do some hard laps I'd call you in and check pressures on pit lane. Then adjust accordingly and send you out again.

We'd set ride height so it would just "nick" a few places on the track. That would mean that on the out lap on cold tires the rub strips would be talking you you a lot of places until the tires warmed up.

Remember, if it was easy, everybody would be doing it.

To quote PF

Carb Jets:
The secondaries should be mechanically operated. This means that any time you are at full throttle (and this will be 95% of the time), both the primary and secondary will be open. If you are seeing a discontinuity in the EGT's, that may be due to the auxiliary enrichment tubes (put in by various engine builders to modify the fuel distribution) starting their flow with a slight delay - this is normal.

The main jets are located in the bottom of the float bowl. To change them you remove the top of the carb (6 screws) -- if you are careful not to tear the gasket, it can be reused. You will probably have different jets for the primary & secondary venturi -- so be careful to note what size is currently used for each one. A "one jet leaner" usually mean a differnence of 5 (i.e. change a 175 to a 170 - smaller numbers are leaner).

Your carb also has air corrector jets (aka A/C) -- you also remove the carb top to access these -- but they are located on the upward face of the carb body. Again, primary and secondary values may be different. The air correctors adjust the mixture just at the high flows (i.e. high RPMs) -- three steps of A/C jets is about the same as one step of main jets. A larger A/C jet will make the mixture leaner, and a smaller one will make it richer.

Finally, you will find idle jets on the side of the carbs in the main body, just below the top. You unscrew the holder, and the jet sits in that. Watch out not to lose the rubber o-ring under the jet holder. Idle jets are hardly ever changed, but you should pull them out to make sure a piece of debris hasn't clogged the very small orifice.

The mixture screw located near the base of the carb will adjust the mixture at idle. With the engine running at idle (usually 900 - 1000 RPMs), screw it in until the engine starts to run rough, then back it out again until the engine again begins to sound a bit rough -- at that point, screw it back in 1/4 to 1/2 turn and you're all set -- a smooth running engine.

DaveW’s jets at one time when he had a Pinto were:

JET PRI SEC
AIR 200 140
FUEL 135 165
(FOR AVGAS, ~55F)

Rollin Butler’s starting point.:
JET PRI SEC
Air 175 160
Fuel 145 155

Primary air is always bigger.
Secondary fuel is always bigger.

From: Dave Weitzenhof

1. The primary jets have more effect on cyl 2 & 3 than on cyl 1 & 4. The secondaries have more effect on 1 & 4 than on 2 & 3. Therefore, if 2 & 3 are rich compared to 1 & 4 (plug check after clean-cut, etc.), lean primaries or richen secondaries, and vice-versa.

2. A long time ago, before the widespread use of EGT sensors, I very successfully used a seat-of-the-pants trackside method of setting the over-all degree of richness. I would warm up the engine to operating temp, and then immediately run it to ~3000 rpm, let the rpm stabilize, and then open the throttle wide open for ~1 second. If the engine died or hesitated for more than ~1/2 second, the jets were too lean and needed to be richened. If the engine just barely hesitated and then revved cleanly, the jets were just right. If it picked up smoothly with no hesitation, the jets were too rich. All of this assumes no major carb or other engine problems. This really did work quite well.

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Originally Posted by rickb99

Recommended start pressures (cold) are 16 rear and 18 front (I assume we are talking Reynard?).

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This is the opposite of what I would suggest. It partly depends on what your spring and bar rates are, but I could never start the fronts that high. My target with the Reynard was 19 hot in the front and 20 hot in the rear. That usually meant starting around 16/17 or 17/18 cold depending on the ambient and track temps. It is much easier to start too high with these tires. There is a significant performance fall off if you start them too low. The Hoosiers don't seem as sensitive to this as the Goodyears were but that floor was right around 15psi. I wouldn't suggest trying to go any lower than that.

If you have any plans of swapping over to an electric fuel pump, I will share some of my most recent findings. From an engine builder: 'fuel pressure for the carb is 3.5 to 4.5 psi.' I received this info after I filled the air intake and carb COMPLETELY with fuel. What a mess.

NAPA carries a Carter pump that puts out 4.0 psi. This is certainly a preferred model than the Spectra pump I had purchased that put out 7.0 - 9.0 psi. I ended up reseating the mechanical pump and that has worked out fine. Lesson to this post is that fuel pressure to the carb does matter.

We have the Carter pump on our FC. It's been flawless for 5 years.

Also to the electric fuel pump - you can get ones that have a low enough pressure for the carb, but then won't flow enough volume to keep up with WOT. A few seconds of 4th gear was enough to drop the level enough that the car would sputter. Stock mechanical pump fixed that.

Gary

This one? Any pics of your Reynard with the electric fuel pump installed?

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/crt-p60504/overview/


Also if this is a 90 should not the SN be something like 90 SF 001, and not the 01 SF 001 it says in the log book and Canadian vin plate?????? I am pretty sure its a 90. I measured the frame parts like Avril told me about and they are indeed 1".

Also, sorry for no pics. I have been staying up late and working 10+ hours on the car on my days off. I am pretty tired and my phone is my radio and my camera. So when I get on a roll I just keep on rolling. But I need a break, and I will snap some progress pics while I work on my daily driver. Which is literally rusting apart.

Ours is a Carter E1038-101A.

As seen on Bruce MacDonalds 88 Reynard.

I've used the little facet pumps for years. No regulator, and they keep up with WOT just fine. I made a plate to go over the original location and mounted the electric pump there, on a couple of vibration isolators. However, on the metal pumps the ears will eventually break off even with those precautions.

Facet came out with their Posiflow line of plastic pumps and I've been using the same one for about 5 years now. Much more durable than the metal ones. A bit better from a packaging standpoint too.

look for # 60106

*Start rant*

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...asp?RecID=5450
$160

http://www.harborfreight.com/multi-u...ump-63144.html
$6

That has to stop. If you want more cars on the track, then stop this. Heck you can get a 12V powered one from northern tool for $19. I am sorry I dont own my own business, I dont have a law firm, I am not a doctor, I am not a trust fund baby, I did not develop software. Stop it. This right here is why I will never ever be a member of spoiled children crashing automobiles. Dont buy this. Boycott it. Unless you want this to be a one percenter only sport. Otherwise you need to drop this belief. :redflag:

*end rant*

Still a up hill battle. Anything I did not replace or check has failed slowing me down considerably. I hope when I frame off this thing in the future it will go better now that it has had someone go through it.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/1F...A=w640-h480-no

Now I know why Jeremy said it squirted coolant from the water pump. I guess I should have saved the old pump even though the pulley and shaft were destroyed. No gasket inside or out, and not even RTV (unless it some how dissolves with time). It is pretty corroded inside, I wonder if I can buy a new one from racing stuff on monday? And yes two random different bolts like absolutely everything else in this car. Nothing beats walking back to the tool box five times to take off one part.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/0v...g=w640-h480-no

So I wanted to do the parallel radiators, but could not find a appropriate "y" to split the water flow. So... I went with the series, but in fear of trapped air I pushed water in the bottom of both and sucked from the top of both. I hope this works otherwise I think I will be going with PF's bung theory in the radiators. Went with oil cooler per Averill's advise about the old radiator pods and the lack of oil swirl pot in the oil tank cover.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/33...w=w640-h480-no

Nice new safe crush box. I stand all day at work. So I need my feet for work. Also I found the starter did not line up at all. So I spent some time killing the battery as I found the sweet spot. Also went with the droop limiter. Cant beat hard data on the performance with using it. (pod preview)

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/CB...w=w640-h480-no

Think its ready for the vin plate now.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/fR...w=w477-h635-no

Do you have more than one master switch? In an emergency the safety crew might have a hard time locating the master switch with all those stickers on the fire wall. Not to mention if you're upside down.

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Originally Posted by BURKY

Do you have more than one master switch? In an emergency the safety crew might have a hard time locating the master switch with all those stickers on the fire wall. Not to mention if you're upside down.

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Ha ha, yeah I thought about that. I was looking on the internet for one of the round on off master switch stickers. I think that might help out. But no. Just the one.

The off sticker should be on the outside of the roll hoop so the workers can see it instantly

I have no idea how that post that was here appeared here.

The Reynards that had the kill switch in that location had a wire pull that went to the outside of the body so the corner worker could pull the grab handle outside and it would turn the handle behind your shoulder.


To get a "y" for the cooling system you must buy two Mandrel bent 90 degree aluminum tubes. Then cut them and weld together. Like I said before; "if it was easy, everybody would be doing it."

I never needed a pump to get fuel in a Reynard. :confused: A dump can with a long plastic tube seemed to work well for 15 years.

I did use the Horid Fright pump to pump all the oil out of the oil tank during my occasional oil changes.

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Originally Posted by Fred Michael

The off sticker should be on the outside of the roll hoop so the workers can see it instantly

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I got one there too.

What do you guys use to clasp together the cowl and the engine covers?

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Originally Posted by xmazdatracy

I got one there too.

What do you guys use to clasp together the cowl and the engine covers?

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A combination of Toggle latches and Ruba Guy fasteners. ( I was able to get a batch of new Ruba Guys from England) I could have just used O rings but like the Ruba Guys.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by HayesCages

Those 2 pumps are completely different in design. The Fast Flo pump allows you to pump both directions by simply turning the crank the opposite way. Like if you suddenly realize you've got gas spewing out the top of your filler? Crank it backwards!
Pegasus' prices have always been higher than what you can find if you shop around, if you have the time to shop around. They stock a lot of different items and can send them out the same day most of the time. (hint: use the USPS option for smaller items as you normally get them in 2 days for a very reasonable cost)

Getting back to the Fast Flo: their design is good but the seals are a twice a year replace item. When they start leaking they leak bad. If they had a carbon type seal they'd probably last a lifetime. (think; water pump type)

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OK used the horror freight one tonight and it leaked all over. I would be better off just sticking with the way I was fueling my last car (like PF). Dont get me wrong I like Pegasus, but they dont mandate prices. Its the masses with the belief of "I can out spend more than my competitor to win" that do. There is got to be something in the middle...... Also I too can reach down past the body work and unscrew the fuel cap :o

A brief visit to the ground as I bleed and fill things. Yup weird pods, but I like em. Deal with it:p

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Qg...A=w640-h480-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Hl...A=w640-h480-no

I have a decent amount of wet/color sanding and buffing to do before I place my needed stickers. In the mean time I am getting the very select vinyl artwork finished to get to... yes you guessed it a reasonable priced vendor. And no I am not. My last name is Tracy.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by xmazdatracy

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...asp?RecID=5450
$160
http://www.harborfreight.com/multi-u...ump-63144.html
$6
That has to stop. If you want more cars on the track, then stop this.

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I think this is a lot like comparing a Protege (general use) to a FC (purpose built). There's a vast array of options inbetween; say a more expensive hand pump or a cheaper crank pump. If you are looking to buy something racing specific, it's going to cost more.

Also, a $200 fuel transfer pump isn't preventing anyone from getting their car to the track (formula or otherwise). Racers at the front end of the pack are going through three sets of $1,200 Hoosiers per weekend. And let's not even mention engine rebuild costs. Just wait until you start look at telemetry systems, or replacing the fuel cell.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by xmazdatracy

OK used the horror freight one tonight and it leaked all over. I would be better off just sticking with the way I was fueling my last car (like PF).

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I used an electric pump setup. Total investment about $50.
I use one of these:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mrg-12s/overview/
with some clear hose and a trigger switch:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/anm-cp7853

all mounted in a plastic toolbox:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/The-Home-...1512/202021300

One end in the gas can, the other in the filler neck with a clamp holding it.

Pull the trigger and watch. Less than 10min to fill and empty tank with NO spills....

Everything goes back into the toolbox (except battery)....

You'll grow to adjust to life with Pegasus. They do provide the most comprehensive source for our style of racing. Remember, many of the things they sell have a very low volume and sit on the shelf a long time waiting on a buyer.
I have accounts with Summit, Jegs, Aircraft Spruce, BAT, McMaster Carr, as well as Pegasus. With my current project I have found Pegasus to sometimes be the only source for some weird do-dad. As you stay in the sport you will build a list of many suppliers. The great thing about Apexspeed is the members readily share their sources for hard to find pieces.

On the fuel deal. The top teams are very anal about fuel use numbers and weight. They are setting up their cars to cross the scales in impound at 2 to 5 pounds over minimum. To achieve that level of exactitude they pump their fuel cells dry after every session to measure usage/lap. By recording how much they started with against what is left they build a knowledge of fuel usage for that track in that weather. Then they start the race with a calculated volume. To do all this measuring, most use an outboard electric fuel pump to drain the cell into an empty bottle. After years in the paddock I have observed most teams fill the car with a dump can and long spout.

Then there are us "clubbies" that just start each race with a full cell and don't fret the small stuff. :)

Well everything went together fine. Starts easy and idles great. However when I went to move the car it sounds like the clutch is not disengaging. On the low stands I was able to work through the gears just fine. But when on the ground I try and put in gear and it lurches and dies Like I dont have the clutch pressed down.

So I tightened up the arm thingy as much as possible. Now the pedal is very tight (hard to push). Still nothing. Then I removed the pedal stop and was able to get a ton more movement (all the way to the frame) and still nothing. The clutch bleed out fine.

Is there such a thing as going to far? maybe I was supposed to go less. I ran out of time to try and see if there was a "sweet spot". I mean why else would there be a pedal stop. Now I am off to work and can only wonder. :confused:

All thats left is for vinyl work and making the seat. I really would hate to have and take the motor out again.:thumbsdown:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by xmazdatracy

Well everything went together fine. Starts easy and idles great. However when I went to move the car it sounds like the clutch is not disengaging. On the low stands I was able to work through the gears just fine. But when on the ground I try and put in gear and it lurches and dies Like I dont have the clutch pressed down.

So I tightened up the arm thingy as much as possible. Now the pedal is very tight (hard to push). Still nothing. Then I removed the pedal stop and was able to get a ton more movement (all the way to the frame) and still nothing. The clutch bleed out fine.

Is there such a thing as going to far? maybe I was supposed to go less. I ran out of time to try and see if there was a "sweet spot". I mean why else would there be a pedal stop. Now I am off to work and can only wonder. :confused:

All thats left is for vinyl work and making the seat. I really would hate to have to take the motor out again.:thumbsdown:

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I assume the clutch is hydraulic? If not there are other possibilities beyond what I mentioned below.

You definitely need a pedal stop. If you over-stroke the diaphragm (Belleville) spring you will yield and ruin it. You could also over-stroke the slave piston to the point that it will come out of its bore or the o-ring won't seal.

If it's hard to push, you may be using the wrong TO bearing and engaging the fingers too far from center. The TO bearing should engage the fingers as close to the center as possible w/o slipping off.

Any chance the disk or PP are warped (not unusual). If so that may hinder operation/disengagement.

It's also possible that the input shaft guide bearing in the FW is binding. Or that the disk is binding on the input shaft or stuck somehow to the PP or FW.

If you have a racing type clutch you can go too far.
Edit: 2 minutes too late :-)

Questions:

Was the clutch pedal stop already installed and set at that position or did you remove it and install it at some time?

Are the clutch parts, TO bearing, crank bearing, slave cylinder new/rebuilt or just installed as you got the car.

IMO, anytime the car is split - if using a stock Ford clutch, the clutch disk should be replaced, along with the TO bearing. Cheap insurance. If using a racing clutch, i.e. AP, then at least measure the disk thickness(es) and replace if below .100". Its also not a bad idea to replace the seals in the slave cylinder if the age is unknown.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DaveW

I assume the clutch is hydraulic? If not there are other possibilities beyond what I mentioned below.

You definitely need a pedal stop. If you over-stroke the diaphragm (Belleville) spring you will yield and ruin it. You could also over-stroke the slave piston to the point that it will come out of its bore or the o-ring won't seal.

If it's hard to push, you may be using the wrong TO bearing and engaging the fingers too far from center. The TO bearing should engage the fingers as close to the center as possible w/o slipping off.

Any chance the disk or PP are warped (not unusual). If so that may hinder operation/disengagement.

It's also possible that the input shaft guide bearing in the FW is binding. Or that the disk is binding on the input shaft or stuck somehow to the PP or FW.

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Man I guess I have to split the car again. The clutch, disc, and flywheel all seemed in pretty bad shape. I just thought the little use the clutch gets used, and the fact that it was in first place condition when last run I just slapped it back into the car with a new TO bearing and a fresh cylindrical slave rebuild.

Guess I will get fast at pulling the motor. :checkered:

Re the fuel transfer pump, I have the Pegasus one and it works really well. Fits onto a 5 gallon jug properly, no spills, no mess, delivers fuel accurately. That 6 dollar pump doesn't even look worth 6 dollars.

I would not split it yet.
It may be that you just need to bleed the clutch again.

With a helper. And the car on the floor not running. Put it in gear. Then with the helper leaning on the car slowly push the clutch pedal in. If the slave is working at some point the car will start rolling free. If so... you are almost there.

You need to reset the stop to a point where the car rolls free.

Now in your case, if you could drive it and get it warm the parts may free up. If i was on the grid i would elect to start last for the session. Warm up the engine so it will start easy. Shut the engine off. Put it in first gear. Flip the ignition switch on. Then with afore-mentioned helper pushing on the rear of the car, hit the starter, and drive off. Drive the session and see if the splines, etc. loosened up.

I've seen cars run a rain race and then a few days later the disk won't disengage from the flywheel because of rust. The above trick frees it up.

I once did a double race weekend with no working clutch. Just saying.

****

I usually put a tiny amount of lub on the splines of the input shaft. Then wipe it off. Then practice moving the disc back and forth on the shaft to make sure it slides freely before the final install.

I fear you have fallen into a very common newbie mistake. When installing the engine, sometimes when newbies have it very close, they then use the bellhousing bolts to pull the assembly together. If the splines aren't quite right, or there is a bit of mis-alignment, then they bend the clutch disk to the point that it is warped and won't disengage.

Hoping that didn't happen.

Another possibility...I'm assuming it is a 7 1/2" racing disk. Could you have put it in backwards?

Just thought of this too: If, when you installed the disc, it was off center by a micron and got clamped under the cover it would do this. Don't ask me how I know.

There are too many indicators suggesting the car be split and all parts be examined carefully and replaced where needed. Also, be very careful about the order in which things are assembled and the techniques used. Froggie mentioned the all-too-common technique of pulling the assembly together with the bell housing bolts. Bad form!

If the gearbox does not smoothly slide into place (if the alignment is right) then there is something wrong. Pull it back, lube the splines a bit, re-center the clutch disks (you are using a proper tool, yes?) and try again. If it still won't go, then try removing/re-installing the clutch to verify the disks are in properly and the pressure plate is not warped. (Assuming a racing clutch.) And, make sure you torque the clutch mounting bolts evenly. If you simply crank down on them then you will have different forces around the disks.

The OP mentions the "pretty bad shape" of the flywheel and clutch. One has to wonder why they were re-used. If it was a case of saving money, that is false economy. FRAM!

And, the very distinct possibility of over-stressing the clutch splines (possibly terminal) exists. Until the need for a pedal stop is understood and one installed there is no need to go further. The technique of having a friend try to rotate the tires with the car in gear while the clutch is pushed is a good way to determine the release point of the system.

If you are not totally familiar with putting the car back together then invite someone over who is. Or, if that is not possible, take the car to a shop and have them do it - while you watch and learn. That is a good use of funds. Also, check for diagrams, instructions, videos available. Do not just "slap things" together.

Yes, you can drive it without an operative clutch - something you should be able to do IF it happens at the track.

Whelp, as I was going to warm the car up after a "last chance bleed" to see if I could rock the disc free the oil filter o ring popped again. I thought the first time must have been a fluke or the wrong size filter.

But no. Now its a second time and both times the oil pressure is way over 100psi. Well so much for the free oil that came with the car. I am hoping that it is just a stuck oil pressure relief valve that I will adjust/rebuild when the motor is out and getting the clutch (possibly flywheel) sorted.

Lame paragraph no need to read;

One of my first jobs was working for Bo at Elite Autosports. In fact I couldn't even help in the pit lane because of my age. But one huge lesson I learned from Bo and has helped me in so many ways of my life is to "hurry up and wait". I know I have a little more than two months before my first HPDE/Race. But I fully expect the unexpected. I would love for this all to be done and to be just waiting on stickers and a seat, but well... look stuff like this comes up. Especially when you are caring for 9-13 SRFs something would always be found in between sessions. And if found early, then you had time to fix it. And I am extremely thank full that you all have been helping me with your experience and knowledge. I will sleep better when the car is fully sorted, and I can hope that I make it through Saturday and race Sunday.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by xmazdatracy

Whelp, as I was going to warm the car up after a "last chance bleed" to see if I could rock the disc free the oil filter o ring popped again. I thought the first time must have been a fluke or the wrong size filter.

But no. Now its a second time and both times the oil pressure is way over 100psi. Well so much for the free oil that came with the car. I am hoping that it is just a stuck oil pressure relief valve that I will adjust/rebuild when the motor is out and getting the clutch (possibly flywheel) sorted....

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There was a thread a while back on too much cold oil pressure. I can't find that thread at the moment. But the bottom line was too high oil viscosity. Using a 5W30 synthetic racing oil solved it, IIRC.

Found the thread - the relevant part starts at post # 8.
http://www.apexspeed.com/forums/show...hlight=spewing

Ok that does make sense. I will get some race 5w30 oil for when it comes back together. I still want to open up the pressure adjustment since there was a lot of black stuff in the oil system. It was like finding the "thing" from the movie of the same name.


However I feel the oil pressure gauge is broke too. The gauge (even when not hooked up during the rebuild) never read below 20. Now it sits at 40, However the warning light would come on and I knew to look back at the exon valdez spill. Guess I will try to see if there is a way to re-calibrate it, otherwise that's not a welcome expense to replace it.

Can I ask where you guys get your oil????

You will find a bazillion opinions on that in these pages. Basically, any quality oil at a viscosity that maintains hot oil pressure at 10psi/1000 RPM up to the relief valve setting is OK. If it has a decent amount of ZDDP in it that's better.

I find the Mobil 1 4T oil has decent amounts of ZDDP and is readily available. Dave's a Valvoline fan, you'll find people here that swear by Redline products, and some that go for the Brad Penn/Joe Gibbs specialty oils.

Oil is heavy and costly to ship, so I tend to go with what I can get from a local retailer.

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Originally Posted by xmazdatracy

Ok that does make sense. I will get some race 5w30 oil for when it comes back together. I still want to open up the pressure adjustment since there was a lot of black stuff in the oil system. It was like finding the "thing" from the movie of the same name.


However I feel the oil pressure gauge is broke too. The gauge (even when not hooked up during the rebuild) never read below 20. Now it sits at 40, However the warning light would come on and I knew to look back at the exon valdez spill. Guess I will try to see if there is a way to re-calibrate it, otherwise that's not a welcome expense to replace it.

Can I ask where you guys get your oil????

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I get Valvoline VR1 10W30 synthetic (Valvoline part # 679083) at NAPA or Amazon ($8-10 per qt). Amazon has free shipping over $35. Note that VR1 is available in non-synthetic. If the price is much less than $8 per qt it is likely not synthetic.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by xmazdatracy

However I feel the oil pressure gauge is broke too. The gauge (even when not hooked up during the rebuild) never read below 20. Now it sits at 40, However the warning light would come on and I knew to look back at the exon valdez spill. Guess I will try to see if there is a way to re-calibrate it, otherwise that's not a welcome expense to replace it....

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Over-pressure on a mechanical gauge will yield the Bourdon tube, which flexes to move the needle. The more it yields, the higher the needle will sit at zero. If it's just a little, you can reposition the needle. But for 40 when it should be zero, it's probably toast.

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Originally Posted by DaveW

I get Valvoline VR1 10W30 synthetic at NAPA or Amazon ($8-10 per qt). Amazon has free shipping over $35. Note that VR1 is available in non-synthetic. If the price is much less than $8 per qt it is likely not synthetic.

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ok, Ill bite. Why the recommendation for synthetic?

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Originally Posted by xmazdatracy

ok, Ill bite. Why the recommendation for synthetic?

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Synthetics are by nature more temperature stable. So they do not need as many/much Viscosity-Index additives and are more shear-stable. So as you use them, they will last longer and hold oil pressure better at high temperatures over 200F.

The VR1 synthetic also is high in ZDDP, so wear is minimized.

Also, since they burn at a higher temperature they don't self-dirty as much, nor do they need as much detergent, which also burns and dirties the oil.

Not to mention easier starting on those mornings early in the season...

Tracy - you don't have to change oil on these often. IF you were to average 100 mph, typical FC Pinto life will come in at 2500 miles. That synthetic oil is only 1/4 of its way through life, and if you are like most of us, you've probably added twice as much or more to burn-off and puke than the car actually holds, so the oil that comes out isn't even related much to the oil that went in.

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Originally Posted by Rick Kirchner

..... Tracy - you don't have to change oil on these often. IF you were to average 100 mph, typical FC Pinto life will come in at 2500 miles. That synthetic oil is only 1/4 of its way through life......

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Some people only 'change' the oil during a rebuild on the Pinto. Usually at 2,500 to 3,000 miles.

oh! Wow. I was changing my last cars oil @ 250-350mi. :o

http://tiltonracing.com/wp-content/u...lic-Clutch.pdf

Here is the plate and flywheel. In my last car I would resurface both, However I used my clutch a lot. In this car I think the only time you need the clutch is to get going and if you miss a gear so I am not so sure if I really need to do anything.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pp...g=w470-h626-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Sz...A=w470-h626-no

I got a new clutch pilot tool, however it not that much tighter than the last one I had. I guess I will try and be a bit more careful and will go back to the radius TO bearing. If you guys think the plate and flywheel are ok and the disc is indeed less than .008 warped I will try this again. :o

put a straightedge across both the flywheel and pressure plate and see if any light gets underneath....