I have something you should be able to work with. Let me know when you're ready.Quote:
Originally Posted by RSS
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I have something you should be able to work with. Let me know when you're ready.Quote:
Originally Posted by RSS
I think I figured out how to print the last couple suspension parts. So I think the base model is complete and ready for some testing if anyone wants to volunteer?
Attachment 101557
Attachment 101558Attachment 101559
Quote:
Originally Posted by RSS
Sweeet!! Are the floor tiles that it's on a cubic foot each? What's the overall length of the car once assembled? I can test, but I'd like to see if I can scale it down.
Yes the car is about 20" long with the wings. It is 12.5% of full scale for the car any smaller and the suspension parts become to difficult to print. I have already had to thicken up the endplates and such as they where getting really thin at that scale.Quote:
Originally Posted by Keith Carter
Are the rims printed? they look metalic in the photo
Yes they are a metallic silk pla same with the exhaust and air intake stack.Quote:
Originally Posted by swiftdrivr
They look great!
My son printed that F1 car and got it running with pretty low end (brushed) RC motor and controller. It's actually kinda fun to drive, but it doesn't tolerate any significant bumps or running into anything. We've broken at least front wings and rear axles. At least replacement parts are cheap!Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Livengood
Nice work! It looks great
Quote:
Originally Posted by RSS
What did you end up using for filament? From what I'm reading, to do TPU I would need to change the extruder (direct drive) and the hot end and possibly the bed to get it to print right. Not sure I'm there yet! :)
For the tires I actually went back to the Flexible PLA as it had more of a matte finish. The TPU tires came out to glossy.Quote:
Originally Posted by Keith Carter
You should be able to print the flexible PLA or Soft PLA on the standard bowden setup of an ender 3 just print a bit slower and lower retractions so it doesn't get backed up. It will stick to most build plates.
https://www.amazon.com/ATARAXIA-ART-...30&sr=8-3&th=1
HELLO I am a MYGALE OWNER and looking for someone to help me make my MYGALE 1/16 scale models into P2 models. i will need 6R&L FRONT and REAR fenders total 24 pieces is that something you could make????? in MYGALE BLUEQuote:
Originally Posted by RSS
Dave, I sent you a reply, or at least I think I did. If you didn't get my message reach out to me again.
I finally got PETG to work. The parts are really solid, usable actually. Really nice! I am not even close to RSS quality prints. Damn that is nice.
Hey David it's been a while you still have the F1000/P2? I could probably help you out with the printing/drawing.Quote:
Originally Posted by david oleary
The real question is what is Mygale Blue? Are you thinking the PR1 blue that our cars are? or maybe the Darker blue of the original 99 Mygales?
Roger
that is nice :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:Quote:
Originally Posted by RSS
One would assume French racing blue (Blue de France).Quote:
Originally Posted by RSS
HI Roger Yes I still have the 2004 MYGALE, I raced it 12 races in 2017 and then both FB and P2 at Indy runoffs, since then I did 1 race in 2018 & 2019 then I retired from work and had some health issues so now it is in FA trim for 2022. The blue isQuote:
Originally Posted by RSS
like a medium blue not sure if it is France Blue but not a dark blue. I can send you pictures if you email me speedmandave@outlook.com. the Blue that was on the NTT INDY car that Chip used is very close, I want to give models to my crew guys in both FA and P2, so I have 6 cars I need to convert. I can paint parts to match the models. ROGER, It may be the PR1? Any idea where I can get a engine cover??
HI CHRIS Sorry I did not get your message, it you send me a email I can send you pictures on what I am trying to do, I have 6 models I want to convert to P2 for my grew guys from a INDY car models. speedmandave@outlook.com Thank YouQuote:
Originally Posted by Chris Livengood
Dave
My Aim expansion hub will be stashed in a tote for now so I wanted to protect the connectors from damaged or dirt. And it was an excuse to use the printer.
https://www.apexspeed.com/forums/att...d=101864&stc=1https://www.apexspeed.com/forums/att...d=101865&stc=1
Here's a neat idea that seems to work really well. I haven't tried it yet, but seeing Mike's post with his part on the background of carbon fiber reminded me. All you need to do is use the textured carbon fiber vinyl on the bed in order to give your prints a carbon fiber look (on one side anyway). https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dJ_q7u4IJHM
I've been replacing seals in my calipers and there's the usual problem of getting both pistons out. One usually comes out easily, and then there's trying to get enough pressure behind the other to pop it out without launching it across the shop, getting your fingers in the way, or other nonsense.
So I made this little number. Had trouble getting it to seal at first until i learned to leave the old seal in place. Right now it's 3 pieces, but I think with some judicious dimensioning I could make it work as just two. The O-ring is the biggest one out of a HF kit.
First thing I do is use the two flat pieces to clamp one of the pistons in place, and then use compressed air to pop the other out. Then you insert the side with the o-ring in the vacant cylinder and tighten it down, and then pop the other side out. https://www.apexspeed.com/forums/att...d=101982&stc=1
My beacon reminder de-laminated, so I made this one that slips over the edge of the MoHo's dash.
I also made these toolbox labels. there are two small magnets on the backside. I use S3D's "stop printing at". and "start printing at" options under the advanced tab to separate the colors. There's also a way to do it with scripts, but if you are working with an easily defined dimension it's easier to do the stop/start, as sometimes the printer gets lost after you change colors.
this 1/2 of a tripod housing to help visualize what's going on with my axles.
Wing snubber made from TPE. It's not perfect, but far better than the usual plastic or aluminum parts and doesn't eat thru the wing skin. traced the profiles on paper, scanned it in, loaded the image into F360 as a canvas, and then fit spline curves to the tracing.
https://www.apexspeed.com/forums/att...d=103339&stc=1
Some more TPE parts - replaced the bumpers on my trailer. The original neoprene ones were just falling apart.
https://www.apexspeed.com/forums/att...d=103340&stc=1
A hanger for my hoist
https://www.apexspeed.com/forums/att...d=103341&stc=1
I hate this ZAMP POS helmet. What made me hate it was this shield breaking, and then the post snapping off when I tried to change it, along with the lack of customer service, but I digress.
So I had this shield rattling around in my helmet bag, and I thought I could fix it with 3DP.
On one side there's a .6mm thick ABS washer and a little larger one on the top. Glued on with airplane glue. Seems to be working. The ABS is quite a bit more flexible than the polycarbonate of the shield.
I suppose I ought to print a few more for the helmet bag just in case I need them again in the future.
Snap-on cover to make drive axle service a little less messy
The best part about packing tripods is how absolutely miserable it is. You are missing out.
I use the Mobil 1 grease. It makes my skin so soft! Thinking about a re-package to sell it at Sephora.Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Livengood
OK, that made me laughQuote:
Originally Posted by Rick Kirchner
Haven't posted these here before, but a few things over the years on my Rostock Max V2. Mostly PLA, some ABS, recently some PETG, but man it's stringy.
I used Simplify3D quite a bit for ease of use, but honestly get much better prints on the old MatterControl software. Looking into a large volume SLA printer now.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/okBEgi1PJ2s4jrfq7
I've done quite a few bearing and seal setting tools on various engines.
cool mount for the surface roughness meter!
The quality of my prints has fallen off a bit. Don't know if it's wear in the machine (can't imagine it) or just some way that I've worked myself into a bunch of settings that conspire to kill my surface finish.
I tend to be a little impatient and I usually make functional parts, so I don't spend a lot of time with optimization to get good finishes.
Peteg though, it just takes a lot of fiddling.
I too use S2D, but I'm beginning to think I need to go back to Cura and start using that again.
Jim;Quote:
Originally Posted by jcolley
How the heck did you do the degree wheel? Really trick.
Gents;
How about battery trays? I have a drawing for a machined aluminum tray with precise dimensions. Is there a possibility?
To have any kind of structural integrity for holding heavy stuff, I usually start with a wall thickness no less than 1/8". From there you get into some esoterics about whether features need supports and if the layers are going the right way for some features. other than that, a battery box is not a big deal as long as the printer is large enough.
It was a large wheel from Summit (I think), I just make adapters for the crank noses for whatever engine I needed. Those V10s don't need to be degreed for stock builds, but verifying PTV clearance on 4 race cams is a major PITA, especially with variable timing.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick Iverson
The one pic of the little blue ring and the large gear was a test for limiting travel on the cam phasor for the intake cam.
You know those little CV gaskets that are quite expensive for what they are? they can be 3D printed for pennies.
Okay chemical engineers.....
Would PLA survive exposure to epoxy while being covered in glass ?
Yes. I've used epoxy to smooth PLA before making a mold.Quote:
Originally Posted by BeerBudgetRacing
I recently stumbled across the "Gridfinity" system by Zack Freedman: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ra_9zU-mnl8
and gave it shot in organizing that one toolbox drawer that we all have: the one that is the "junk drawer" that holds all the stuff that doesn't fall into one of the main tool categories. I was going to modify the 42mm grid system for an exact fit in my Harbor Fright drawer but the standard grid fit almost perfectly. I spent way too much time designing boxes for specific tools but I'm really happy with the result. The challenge is resisting the urge to do the rest of the drawers.
https://www.apexspeed.com/forums/att...d=104835&stc=1
https://www.apexspeed.com/forums/att...d=104836&stc=1
.
https://www.apexspeed.com/forums/att...d=104837&stc=1
https://www.apexspeed.com/forums/att...d=104838&stc=1
This is pretty cool. Have you shared any of your new models?Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike B
I haven't but I sure could. I'm afraid my custom boxes might have a VERY narrow audience... :DQuote:
Originally Posted by BeerBudgetRacing
Well yeah, but you're talking to it! Dooo eeet, mon! :thumbsup:Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike B
Looking at the drawer you setup I question of the baseplate/grid is actually necessary.
Or does it take up depth we could otherwise put to better use..
I figured the grid just came with the Hobo Freight tool box. Mike?Quote:
Originally Posted by BeerBudgetRacing
The grid is part of the gridfinity system (get it?) and is 3d printed. The individual compartments snap into the grid so they don't move around (laterally or vertically). You could go without it but then you would just have a bunch of boxes sliding around. The bottom of each box touches the bottom of the drawer so you don't lose any space. I'm chasing rally cars around the woods this weekend but I'll take pics of how they assemble when I get home.
watch the gridfinity youtube that Mike posted in his original post on this topic. It explains everything.
"Gridfinity" system by Zack Freedman: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ra_9zU-mnl8
I've recently gone down this rabbit hole. Have found a variety of boxes that work well.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike B
Found it's easiest to start with boxes and then adjust to specific tool designs later.
One of the handiest models is for AA and AAA batteries. They hold more than I need in a weekend.
Open the drawer and instantly know how many batteries I have. Sure beats finding the baggies and packages.
"I'm only planning on doing 2 drawers." ;)
I used the filled boxes and extruded out the shapes I needed to fit some of the larger tools. Rabbit hole doesn't begin to describe it. I recently bought a large-format (VERY large format) printer and can now print the entire grid for the smaller HF drawer in one piece (probably two pieces for a standard tool box drawer) so I may go back and revise my scheme.Quote:
Originally Posted by BeerBudgetRacing
Which printer did you buy?Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike B
I've got the Ender S1 Pro with the add-on controller (makes a huge difference).
Decent size but grids (largest 5x5) are lots of pieces.