https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/im...8-345-TOOL.JPG
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-__WyZyPVW9...ive-b13568.jpg
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Look at the bead rollers Eastwood sells.
Manual units really require two people to do good work. Some rig electric motors with foot pedals to the manual units.
YMMV
If you have just 1 size of tube to bead, the Earl's EZ beader is great. I've got one for 1.25" tubing, takes about 2 minutes to bead an aluminum tube.
Steve
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JVDUM2ZxoW0
lol...
What material are you wanting to roll?
Here's one better than Mr Hayes' suggestion. More work but better...
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=51655
You have? I cant find anyone who likes that thing, but for 82 bucks it seems the cheapest tool to get. If you can vouch for the thing Ill get it. Otherwise I am going to buy the jeggs one for 131 and turn around and sell it on ebay.Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveG
On 247 mazda forum they would pass around tools like this. I wish this place would too.:(
And no machine/weld shop in the entire Chicagoland area has one. Trust me, I've checked.Quote:
Originally Posted by Purple Frog
Half the people I asked didn't even know what a bead roller is.
Happy to send ours for you to use. Promise to send back :-) Pay shipping both ways.
Quote:
Originally Posted by xmazdatracy
I've never had a problem with mine on aluminum tube...Quote:
Originally Posted by xmazdatracy
You can borrow mine if you want, you pay shipping both ways.
Steve
Best offers you'll get all day... :D
Quote:
Originally Posted by OneWayOut
If you consider Mukwonago, Wi. part of the Chicagoland area I have both a bead roller and
a beader for tubing. You're welcome to come up and use it.
john f
That close to Lake Wobegon?
Umm, no. Wobegon is in Minnesota. From the main highway, turn left at the Craig's Red Owl, then right after the Lutheran church.Quote:
Originally Posted by HayesCages
Quote:
Originally Posted by Purple Frog
Yep I recognize that car. It stares at me all the time; when I enter work and when I leave... Everyday :D
Is there a question here? ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Purple Frog
haha, in post 239 (linear style) I was hoping someone would let me know if the pictures of my timming marks are right. But I pretty sure its right.:DQuote:
Originally Posted by DaveW
Some nice goodies from a trip to Milwaukee!
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/dW...Q=w477-h635-no
Yeah, those tires look good also.
Personally I would have brought back Spotted Cow
http://www.apexspeed.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif Racetech wiring
Red wire, 12V power feed, must be through the ignition switch. Tach must be switched on and off via this switch
Blue wire, Input signal, from CD output or negative terminal on coil
Yellow wire, Tell Tale Sign, Connected to one terminal of a push button switch. The other terminal on the switch goes to ground.
Green Wire, Atach to a good ground point on the chassis.
Keith
__________________
Keith
Averill Racing Stuff, Inc.
www.racing-stuff.com
248-585-9139
Thanks Keith!
http://www.pertronix.com/docs/instru...heets/1141.pdf
Anyone run a resistor?
blue coil - no resistor, black coil - resistor
Cool thanks for the tip!. Since I pulled the MSD I just ordered up a pentronix rev limiter.
Anyone run these anywhere besides the firewall? :revs:
Three considerations in mounting:
1) don't subject it to a lot of heat
2) don't subject it to a lot of vibration
3) mount it on the other side form where your radio and instrumentation harness is located.
The hardest thing to do if it's not mounted inside the cockpit is #1, and if it is in the cockpit then you usually have issues with #3....
Dang. A way from the wire harness. Thats going to be hard.
Welp I guess I will post some progress photos despite some negative feedback. If you would please ignore the giant elephant in the room here they are.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/S7...g=w640-h480-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/RA...Q=w640-h480-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Xl...Q=w640-h480-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/K8...g=w477-h635-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/lk...Q=w477-h635-no
One last question... if I may (I think this is becoming a lot less a thread in a community and more of a blog), in this picture you can see the filler neck for the fuel cell is pretty low. Can I weld on a length of pipe and have that much closer to the top of the body work, or does it have to stay that low down?
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Ch...A=w477-h635-no
Just use a long funnel. I've almost exclusively filled any of my cars with the bodywork off. There's enough things you'll want to look over between sessions that there is no reason you should want to fill the tank while the bodywork is on.
Might check the clearance between the front "spider" engine mount , and that MSD....it's pretty tight up there. If it was me (and I did)...go back to points /condenser....simple , easy to change , easy to diagnose.......My .02......
Just toss the MSD......
I'd avoid extending the filler neck. The longer it is, the more likely it is to be damaged or torn out in an accident. I agree with the long funnel approach. My fill opening is up fairly high, but inaccessible with a normal funnel. So I use a funnel that has an extension with 3 welded pieces changing direction twice. That allows me to fill from outside, so if I spill, it doesn't wind up inside the car.Quote:
Originally Posted by xmazdatracy
Another in agreement with tossing the MSD and using points/condenser.
Easy to diagnose and fix, plus they are inexpensive, small space requirement spares.
I bought the hand-crank fuel pump...seemed expensive.....but it works great!!!! Can also retract fuel by turning it counter-clockwise. I often fill with my Reynard body on...
We almost ALWAYS removed the rear engine cover every time off the track which made it easy to fill the fuel cell. Also had a manual pump to move the fuel so there was no tipping or spilling gas cans over the engine.
We had one car with points and condenser and the other with MSD. Really was no difference in performance.
BRUCE:
How the hell did you get to the filler neck on the Reynard without removing the engine cover??
I just reach down there, and undue the cap...only problem comes when I drop it!!!!! The fuel hose is about 3 ft long....as I said earlier, I bought one of those hand-pumps to fill with. The hose is clear, and its easy not to overfill.... I see the snow out there...hows it going? I talk of my trip out there often!!!! Bruce
Aren't SCCA compliant fuel cells required to have a check valve?Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveW
Quote:
Originally Posted by SCCA General Competition Rules
I am with Bruce on the dual direction hand crank pump. I whined and sniveled for 3 months about the price of that pump and a jug. Finally cracked my wallet and just bought it. I have tried numerous fueling methods and this is the best I have come across.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick Kirchner
Ha ha... I guess thats why I cant sell it here on apexspeed. Guess I will have to list it on ebay. Yeah I did get rid of it. Here is what the new firewall looks like from the back. Yup you guessed it. I went with a switched negative so I can start the car with only the jump battery.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/A7...g=w477-h635-no
There is no way I can "reach down". The upper bodywork/cowl (tunnel hull boat terminology) is a very tight fit up against the top of the firewall. BUT I totally forgot about the fueling pump. When I would fuel the last car the racing jugs ALWAYS dripped out the back of em. Made my shoe smell like gas for days if I didnt remember to step out of the way. Thanks guys! There is a lot on my mind as I hope for a pre-season completion.Quote:
Originally Posted by CGOffroad
That is correct. The normal formula-car fuel cells have the filler neck directly on the cell. The issue is, IMO, what is meant by "on the fuel cell."Quote:
Originally Posted by OneWayOut
I would think any one-piece filler neck directly attached to the cell would be technically legal, but if it were long, it would not necessarily be safe. Of course, a check valve in a long one piece filler neck might be ripped off along with the filler neck.
If the filler neck were connected by a rubber hose to the cell, then the check valve requirement makes perfect sense.
"Reach down where"? The body work fits snug up to the aft cockpit fire wall and there aren't any holes in it accept the air intake to the carb which fits tight to the carb.Quote:
Originally Posted by BruceRace
Where do you visit out here?
Well , my body work has enough room to slip my arm through the gap....The main section IS an original piece, so it may have a different fit...Well I'm referring to my trip to buy your cars!!! Bruce
Yellow is for recall, the black and white I would guess for the tach trim light, grey??? Guess will never know. TA8 instructions gone the way of the dodo bird. :(
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/2A...A=w477-h635-no
Crappy pic but progress...
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/gK...A=w640-h480-no
OMG! Didn't recognize the name, Bruce. In the end which car did you keep and which did you sell?? Cannot imagine where the gap is you're getting a hand and filler hose from the pump through.Quote:
Originally Posted by BruceRace
I bought the '90 from Bruce. It was all black #36 when I got it. Not sure where the other one ended up or if he still has it.Quote:
Originally Posted by rickb99
The other car is being rebuilt as we speak, by a racer here at Waterford Hills......The car Bill bought is here in the midwest (I believe).......Rick....it was quite a thrill, both towing through the mountains (in snow), and adding some anti-freeze, and starting the car at the base of Devils Tower, worried about the unusually cold temps. It was just us, some deer, and the spirits!!!!! We did some sight-seeing on the way home.... O.K.......enough thread hi-jack...
As I install new hoses for the radiators I cannot see how I would be able to fit the hoses in between the frame and engine (would have to cross) to make them feed the radiators from the bottom. I think it would be easier to install "T's" and run them parallel.
OR
Just run them as they where and feed the radiators from the top and run the risk of having trapped air in them. I can see now from a earlier post that if I left the heater core pipe on the pump I could fill the system from there. Now I have to back fill and pray that the pump does not have cavitation. :thumbsdown::thumbsdown::thumbsdown::thumbsdown: :blackflag:
On my Reynards with that layout I welded bungs in the top of both rads. Then drilled a small hole in the top of the side pod. I could stick a socket down in the hole and bleed air out of the top of the rads. Easy to check in a few minutes.
If I needed to do that, if possible, I would run ~3/16" OD bleed tubes from those holes to the header tank. Then the system would be self-bleeding so there would be no air trapped either initially or from running low on coolant.Quote:
Originally Posted by Purple Frog
If you do that install a filter somewhere to catch all the gunk
that will plug those lines.
Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveW
I'd rather run larger bleed tubes than run a filter, which, IMO, would restrict flow even if it didn't catch anything, and if it did, it would need to be cleaned, adding to maintenance. I mentioned 3/16" OD because I didn't want excessive coolant short-circuiting the coolant flow path. If you are worried about crud blocking them, run 1/4" OD.Quote:
Originally Posted by HayesCages
Only reason I mentioned it was because we've had to blow those bleed lines out because they've got plugged with crud.
No doubt that could happen, but I've not had it happen to me even though I have always had long bleeder lines. On my Citation Zetec, I have 2, one from the rear head outlet and one from the top of the cross-over tube which connects to the top of each radiator.Quote:
Originally Posted by HayesCages
This is the best bleeding and running cooling system I've ever had on any vehicle including my older street vehicles. Fill it, run it once until the thermostat opens, let it cool, refill the cup or so it needs, and it's full. And it loses zero coolant during the season.