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Regarding the header crack;
If that coating is Jet Hot you have to file or sand it off prior to attempting to weld the pipe.
We've broke a pipe per weekend since we bought our Pinto. They shake so much it destroys mild steel headers. If you want them to last buy some stainless ones.
In my experience, it's more the 1500-degree EGT's you need for top performance in the Pinto's that kills the mild-steel headers, although the vibration sure doesn't help. Similar SS headers hardly crack at all, which tells me its mostly the temperature issue.Quote:
Originally Posted by HayesCages
Coating only on the outside or wrapping will accelerate header destruction since that makes the header metal run hotter.
I think that 304 and 316 SS has a higher tensile strength then mild steel as well, like 20%.
You are likely correct on this, but it's the difference in tensile strength above 1300F near the head (where they all crack) that makes the mild steel headers break. Mild steel loses more than 90% of its strength at that temperature. Below 500F, away from the exhaust port, both are plenty strong.Quote:
Originally Posted by HayesCages
WHOLEY cracks Batman!. All the years we were racing Lensen we as in our cars and his I only know of our one header that cracked. If we had lost one per weekend I would have needed my heart surgery a couple of years earlier.Quote:
Originally Posted by HayesCages
Always in a slightly different spot, different pipes, etc. Thanks to Archie Hodge for his acetylene torch set and coat hangers we never missed a session from that!
One pipe is now stainless as it broke so many times.
Got these back from the powder-coater.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-v...A=w477-h635-no
I know color is a personal preference, but so glad to have the red gone. However three of the wheels have holes drilled and taped in the outside bead. Why would this be? And are regular rubber valves you get from autozone ok?
Also, I will be testing the dry sump pan to see if it leaks out of the welded up holes. But before I go and bolt this thing back up I was wondering about the piece that looks like it is supposed to wipe off oil from the spinning crank. Is that thing a must have? I ask this because I have a feeling I am going to have quite a bit of blow by this first season. And I think anywhere the oil can squeeze out it will. Like the cap and rotor are soaked in oil (I already have that o ring on order).
Do you guys have photos of your water pumps? This site has deleted most of the older photos if you attach them to this site. And it looks like its been a while since this car was a hot subject. BUT, the ones I do see look nothing like the water pump you get from Pegasus.
I use rubber valve stems. The ones I use are made for golf carts, IIRC, and are super short, keeping them from getting damaged in wheel-wheel contact.Quote:
Originally Posted by xmazdatracy
Before that, I used the metal valve stems, but had a couple knocked off in wheel-wheel contact, so I switched to the rubber ones. Try to get quality ones, because maybe 8-10 years ago there was a recall on some Chinese ones made with the wrong compound, so they cracked and leaked.
Also, the threaded holes in the outer wheel bead area were likely there to insert pointed screws that dug into the tire beads to keep the tires from slipping on the rims, which is a fairly common issue, causing the tire/wheel ass'y to go out of balance if they slip too much.
Coating Magnesium Wheels: I have been told not to blast and powder coat magnesium wheels. Why is this? Anyone with some experience in this matter have some input?
Water Pump: I recently replaced the water pump on my 2.0L. I was advised by another Apex member to look at purchasing the pump from Dave Bean. I contacted them and had great telephone support with the salesman at Dave Bean. I even requested to the salesman that I send in a picture of what I had so that he could confirm what he had is what I needed. They did so, and it was the right part. I can HIGHLY recommend using Dave Bean when you need some engine parts.
I too was confused that the photos you see online are different than what was in my car. The pump comes with a 'port' that is intended for use to a cabin heater in a normal car. This is not needed in our application so, I cut this off and threaded it and put in a plug. In the future I am considering moving the probe for my AIM system into this port to get water inlet temp. Then put a capillary gauge into the top of my tank to get water outlet temps.
I think it is a standard now that all these water pumps are made out of Aluminum. There is a little weight savings over the stock metal one that I pulled off. The nicest thing about this is the fact that it made chopping off the heater line and threading it simple !!
I'm a bit concerned by this statement: I ask this because I have a feeling I am going to have quite a bit of blow by this first season.
I'm wondering why you think this? And if so, you have the engine out and almost stripped. Why not just throw a new set of rings in it now?
I say that because a good pinto doesn't have blow-by. In fact it usually runs with enough scavenge from the oil pump to have negative crankcase pressure.
OBTW leave the hardware in that pan, its there for good reason.
This car has had more surprises than I can financially handle. So I am at the financial verge of being able to run next season or having to wait till 2018 to be my first FC season. So as for now I just wanted to make sure the pinto will not explode during my first season. I will wait till next off season to tear it down and build it right.Quote:
Originally Posted by Purple Frog
Jeremy and myself were informed that this motor was a fresh rebuild, so my suspicions are that they do have new rings in there. But looking in the spark plug holes I can see no one ever had the block honed (hence the blow-by comment). I know this motor is from the 60's but this is a bit more groovy than a set of new rings can fix! :ha: :rolleyes:
I have been busy at work and have been a bit too tired to come home and continue to work on this little guy, but today I will be pulling off a cap or two off the bottom end, and plasti-gaugeing to check if bearing tolerance was paid attention to. If not then maybe I will not make it to the track this coming season and do a full pinto rebuild now.
The piece that I was talking about is not on the oil pan. It was smushed between the pan and the block. Here you can see it in this pic.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/r6...w=w640-h480-no
I know the one on/in the pan is very common, and I will not touch it. But that other piece looks to be just a extra oil wiper. Not sure if it is needed, and is mounted down there in a poor fashion. I do notice the many views since that post but no one except you has taken a stab at saying anything about it. So I am thinking not a lot of people here build their own motors. Since I still have to test the oil pan for leaks that should give me enough time to wait, and I will call Ivey again and ask them about that piece. The motor does have a I.V. number on it, but I have a felling it has been a long time since they have seen this block. I would not think a pro engine rebuild shop would stick weld a mounting tab on, and paint it some other color than their own trademark color.
Here is to hoping for good luck today! :beer::beer::beer:
Another vote for leaving the scraper.
In SCCA racing because of the rule concerning max cylinder diameter; wear can only be solved by re-sleeving the block. About a $400 expense. Many regional guys try to "get by" with piston-to- wall clearances that are excessive. Or, they break the rules and throw in oversized pistons, something I could not do.
The original pinto piston design might be fine for 2300 rpm. At 6800 the distance the wrist pin is from the rings creates "rocking" and cylinder wall wear, along with piston ring groove wear.
Unfortunately the solution is available but illegal. (I have given up that fight.) One reason the newer engines in our classes (Zetec/Fit) have longer duty cycles is their pistons are so much better designed.
If you can...figure out a way to send it to Ivey........if you run it , and blow it up, it will cost you tons more!!!
The one good thing about pintos is that for the most part they don't "blow up" and gernade all over the place, unlike FA or FB. In most cases pintos just keep getting "softer" and "softer".
The exception would be incredible over revs, or someone trying to use the original stock rods. For the most part stock rods haven't been in the engines for almost two decades.
The problem with "soft" engines they are completely no fun to drive. IMHO a waste of entry fees and travel expenses.
If you want to bring that engine by our shop, We can measure the cylinder bores, and give you an idea of the clearances, and even check the ra finish of the cylinder wall, and let you know what you are dealing with. Glad to do pics of the process, to add to the thread. If it needs sleeves, we could photo document that the bore/resleeve process also.
I "think" you're not that far away ?
Sent from my SM-G900R4 using Tapatalk
As a bonus you can stop by the New Glarus brewery while you're at it!Quote:
Originally Posted by mblanc
Never taken much to make me visit there again, and again, and again... one of my favesQuote:
Originally Posted by hdsporty1988
http://www.theperfectlyhappyman.com/...uirrel-ale.jpg
Never thought about wall limits put in place by the GCR. I was thinking a quick hone would never get it that far, but then again all the sleeve to piston wall specs I have done before was done at a machine shop, and not me. If that is at end spec... then instead of sleeving it maybe its time to go back to my roots and toss a modern motor in here. :confused: Who knows. Just want a season under my belt before I can say anything like that.
Good news... all main caps and con caps are good! :thumbsup:
Well not very confident with this oil pan. I had to reshape the mating surface as the pan was over torqued and every screw hole was pushed down considerably. Also I had to re-braze one of the holes from a previous motor explosion (leaking badly) just to find out it now touches the oil pump. Don't want to push it in with of fear I might open up that pin hole again or crack the new brazing. But I will fill the motor up and test for leaks before I put the engine back in.
I also spent the last 45min looking for a post from one of the regulars on here that he said that he opens up his new hella kill switches, and does some sort of spacer thingy and never has a problem with the switch failing again. Can anyone find that or let me know what he did that would be great.
Also is it a sin to mount the switch up by the battery? It would save weight and cost of 4g wire. Not sure if the GCR states that it has to be back by the hoop. Reading that thing tends to put me to sleep.
Thanks!:thumbsup:
9.3.33.
MASTER SWITCH
All cars, except Touring shall be equipped with a master switch easily
accessible from outside the car. Spec Racer Fords shall be wired per
GCR - 103
9. Cars and Equipment
General
RFSRII. The master switch shall be installed directly in either battery cable
and shall cut all electrical circuits but not an on-board fire system. All
terminals of the master switch shall be insulated to prevent shorting out.
It shall be clearly marked by the international marking of a spark in a blue
triangle and mounted in a standard location. Off position shall be clearly
indicated at the master switch location. The standard locations shall be
as follows:
A.
Formula and Sports Racing Cars–In proximity to the right-hand
member of the roll bar, but in a location so that it cannot be oper
-ated accidentally. It can be mounted on a bracket welded to the
inside of the upright member or mounted so that the operating lever
or knob is outside of the body panel immediately in-board of the
upright member. This is the standard location on Formula cars built
to the Constructor’s Association requirements for Formula 1.
B.
Closed Sports Racing
Cars, Production Cars, Improved Touring and
GT Cars–In front of the windshield on either the cowl or on top of
the fender, but close enough to the windshield to be accessible
if the car is overturned. Alternatively, it may be mounted below
the center of the rear window or on a bracket welded, clamped
or bolted to the
roll cage or dash, easily accessible through the
open window. (Drilling of holes in roll cage to attach the bracket is
prohibited.)
C.
Open
Production, GT, and Improved Touring Cars–May exercise a
choice among the above locations.
Damn it....
Some, DaveW as an example, have the kill switch positioned on the dash so the driver can control it.
In an earlier picture on this thread; on my Reynards i mounted it outside on the right side on the panel behind the radiator.
In MC they don't mention any location (for formulas), however I still would like to stay with SCCA rules. So yes I will be placing mine just like yours. I saw they have a remote kill switch for the main kill switch so you can have two spots and not have 4g going everywhere. That was pretty neat, but very pricey. I am still wanting to do the jump/start the car with the kill switch off to save on battery life, and that will mean a new run of 4g from the battery to the switch, and then to ground. Also I went with a PC680. Guess if I am going to be slow, I might as well make it to the end of the "Looong" race slowly too. Since I will not have the switch to act as a point of distribution I will get one of those distribution blocks, and make it a bit more safe/pretty.Quote:
Originally Posted by Purple Frog
Quote:
Originally Posted by Purple Frog
My kill location is legal per SCCA - there is a pull cable from just behind the roll hoop on the RH side to the actual switch on the dash. This has the advantage of no extra length of heavy gauge wire (my ETX18L battery is below my knees - no jump battery needed). Also, I use the main switch to turn everything on and off every session, which I can do while in the car.Quote:
Originally Posted by xmazdatracy
Photos below. The RH photo is from before the conversion to Zetec.
It doesn't hurt to jumpstart the car with the switch on. Just don't leave the jump start battery plugged in when you are not actually jumping.
That will save you a lot of wiring hassles.
You could move the jump start plug to the rear of the car to get a real short run to the starter.
The newer batteries have so much better power supply that many times one doesn't need a jump battery.
I have a stock oil pan if you are feeling energetic and want to construct a new one. :) Otherwise I would call an engine builder and see what they have laying around.
Interesting thing about pinhole leaks in the pan. If they are up high, they don't leak oil out, they leak air in; because when the engine is running there is negative pressure in the crankcase.
Grind the outside for clearance, put a patch on the inside...
No nothing wrong with that but....Quote:
Originally Posted by xmazdatracy
Quote:
Originally Posted by xmazdatracy
http://www.apexspeed.com/forums/atta...0&d=1479091138
I also will be putting my oil cooler in the same spot. I love the rear cover that works with the new wing style. I got half of it (bottom of the clam shell style) with the purchase, but have no idea where I would find the rest.
I want to call around for a steel dry sump pan to see if anyone can remember if they have one in their attic/shop that they no longer want/need, and would be willing to part for cheap. I did see a nice aluminum one on ebay for 425, but that is gone now. That is a bit pricey as I also have a dog that needs surgery next month. BUT, first let me test this pig.
Also when I went to test the oil pan last night (filing motor with oil) it helps to have a oil filter on...:rolleyes:
Aluminum pans were made for stressed installations and they have more protuberances. You really have to look at the specifics of your floor bracing to guarantee fit with any different pan.
Call Keith, he used to make the rear body work clam shell or at least knew where to get them.
https://i.ytimg.com/vi/mE3ehB9jpts/maxresdefault.jpgQuote:
Originally Posted by Rick Kirchner
Ahh, thanks! :thumbsup:Quote:
Originally Posted by rickb99
how can you tell if the distributor is a dixon fixed?
http://media2.turbosport.co.uk/2011/...20x%20507).jpg
http://media2.turbosport.co.uk/2011/...20x%20507).jpg
http://media2.turbosport.co.uk/2011/...20x%20507).jpg
With the cap off you should be able to grab the rotor and rotate it about 20 degrees against the internal springs. If its fixed, you can't rotate it. It will not advance.
OK it is the regular style with the old black pentronx in it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Purple Frog
What are your guys views on speed bleeder screws???
Speed bleeder good.
OK all the hoses for the coolant are bulging and are needing to be replaced. I will be buying new silicon hoses, but since the car was running fine (I hope) I was just going to leave everything the same. Unless you guys think that running the radiators in series instead of parallel is a horrible thing to do. What do you guys think???
Good news is the car is starting to get back together.:thumbsup:
I think there's another thread regarding the series or parallel topic.
You don't need silicone hoses. Conventional cooling system hoses are perfectly adequate.Quote:
Originally Posted by xmazdatracy
It is nearly impossible to adequately split flow to operate a cooling system in parallel. My Zink Z10 ran the rads in series, I never had a cooling problem.
Simple is better.
Regards,
Dan
As far as the coolant hoses go, follow Carroll Smith's advice: Gates Green stripe or similar. Do not buy no name hose from China.
Also, if you are friendly with the counter guy at the local parts store talk him into letting you go in back and match the curves that you need with their stock. much cheaper that way.
Eliminate the bottom half of the clamshell, it's a parachuteQuote:
Originally Posted by rickb99
I'm hoping I timed this right. I believe the cam is a touch behind/retarded cause that is what you guys run...
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/8u...Q=w477-h635-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/jm...A=w477-h635-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/sm...Q=w477-h635-no
This dizzy stuff is new to me. I normally just plug the laptop in and do everything from there... ;)
Welcome to the old days.
Lol, ok I am going to take that as I did it right.Quote:
Originally Posted by HayesCages
Setting timing is rev it up past 4K and listen for it:revs::revs::revs::revs:?
A lot of chassis have the timing mark on the flywheel. Larger diameter = more accurate timing.
Hum.... i seem to remember the pointer on the cam gear being at the top, not bottom...
I also seem to remember we only advanced the cam or retarded it about 3 degrees either way, depending on the track, using offset keys.
Where is DaveW when we need him?
If you had points and condenser, we would teach you how to set initial static timing with a Zig-Zag rolling paper....Quote:
Originally Posted by xmazdatracy
well while I am getting ready to start plumbing this thing, I was wondering about tire sizes.
I keep reading that FC is referred to as having 6 and 8 inch tires. But is that like a rule? On the car now I have 7 and 9 inch tires. Tax season (tire fund) is coming up and I will be purchasing tires (used) and everyone here is pretty hit or miss on tire sizes... Without messing up the suspension set up that is on the car from jrock how do I find these sized tires???
Also arms up (local FC prep shop) only uses radial now. So no more take offs from them. As I was probing into the world of formula there where quite a few MC drivers that would run tires almost all season, but on here it seems people would only run tires for a day. I am lost in the bias of perceived value on take offs...
Please all who use tires on their race car chime in.
6 and 8 inch rims are the rule for FC. AFAIK you can use whatever size tire on them but most use the 7 and 9 inch combination.
Radials are spec. tire in some groups. Some older chassis don't have the adjustment range to set the camber where required.
New tires = consistently faster lap times = higher cost. Few can run at the front on someone's take-offs. Not saying it hasn't been done though.
The most common size is 7" in the front and 8" in the rear. The 9" is pretty much overkill on these cars. The wheel sizes are regulated but there are a few sizing options out there. The 8" and 9" tires have different diameters too so its not as simple as switching between the two as it will affect your gearing.
There's still a takeoff source thru John Berget Tire. Cost is about a third on buying new. Overall, I've had pretty good luck with takeoffs from him.
Used John regularly for 3 years with no problems. At the time it was $280 for four tires delivered to my front door. With hard driving they were good for a weekend with maybe a little left over for one more practice. Was with 40 minute practices two runs on Saturday and one on Sunday, 40 minute qualifications one run per weekend on Saturday and 40 minute races one on Sunday.Quote:
Originally Posted by 2BWise
Third used tires from John!!
Have used him for years. Never got a bummer.
Doesn't get much better than that.
I've only ever used take-offs. I've never had an issue with John's tires. :thumbsup: