I've been 'recouping' funding for several decades now. Good luck with that :D
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I've been 'recouping' funding for several decades now. Good luck with that :D
I don't believe that bearings are directional, it doesn't matter which way they spin.
Not remembering my old MK9 setup, but to interface correctly with clutch-spring "fingers," you need a radiused surface to mate smoothly to the surface (angle) of the fingers no matter how far they are depressed. And that means a radiused surface towards the clutch.
I've been replacing my throwout bearings in my Reynard since 1999.....the inner race that slides over the aluminum tube(that goes over the input), is the stationary part of that bearing. If you notice, if you put it on the other way, and loctite it on, nothing will spin. Hold the outer race and spin the flat race, and remember the outer must stay attached and stationary.....
Exactly.Quote:
Originally Posted by BruceRace
https://cdn.meme.am/instances/500x/65987619.jpg
Like Bruce stated the only thing that moves is the inner race. ALL of the outer bearing is independent of the inner race. So the fact that the inner race is lower means that it does not make contact to the fingers of the clutch, but on the other side it does peak out to keep the outside parts from touching the clutch forkish thing I cant remember what is called right now. Here look at this...
https://youtu.be/d4amawgILgQ
You can see in the "radius direction/up" the inner race does not move. That is because it would be pinned between the cylinder shaft and the fingers of the clutch. And in the radius/numbers side down you can see that it moves freely of the inner race. That is because the inner race props it up and off/away from the cylinder shaft to allow it to spin freely. Remember the cylinder shaft thingy has a shoulder that will contact the outer part of the throw out bearing.
I'm sure a nice radiused bearing would be perfect, but like I have been reminded many times before this car is 30 years old and I need to accept things.
To me it appears that the bearing you have is meant for a 3 fingered release, not diaphragm type. We used those on the big American car we used to run.
uh oh... :(Quote:
Originally Posted by HayesCages
searched to no avail; The new water pump has an extra outlet. Do I plug it or use it some how?
Plug it. It is for a heater hose on the street cars this engine was used in.
you can plug it or run it to the bottom of the header tank and use that point as the fill point for the water system. A lot of cars just fill off the water neck at the front of the head. If you fill through the water pump heater inlet, keep the header tank above the top of the head, and run steam bleeds off the top of the radiators, you won't have any air buildup in the system and it will be easy to bleed.
With a new water pump you might want to compare with your old one - sometimes the impellers are trimmed to reduce cavitation at the higher RPM we run.
Use it to pump hot water to the cockpit on those cold autumn weekends.Quote:
Originally Posted by xmazdatracy
Did you get the aluminum or cast iron pump?
Ours were both aluminum. :)
The pump came with the car. It is an aluminum "stock pump" from Pegasus.
Two Dogg, Inc in Rosco IL can supply you with wheel spacers.Quote:
Originally Posted by xmazdatracy
By header tank do you mean the swirl pot with the radiator cap and overfill outlet?Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick Kirchner
I gave them a call for some prices on stuff and seemed not to interested, and they never gave me a call back.Quote:
Originally Posted by hdsporty1988
YesQuote:
Originally Posted by xmazdatracy
OK, 100LL (local airport) or 110 sunoco (local gas station)?
100LL for 30+years
+1 for Avgas
Great! It's 4.29 a gallon and the air port is in my neighborhood. No questions asked, just wants your credit card number.
Ours is also automated. Wants a tail number. I tell it N1111.
Avgas is less expensive but in a pinch Sunoco usually has 110LL at most tracks where they have pumps installed. We used both just depending upon which was easier to get on any given weekend.Quote:
Originally Posted by xmazdatracy
Any difference in jetting?Quote:
Originally Posted by rickb99
Not that any mortal can notice. Jetting has more to do with altitude, barometric pressure, humidity.
my job is to stand in the staging lane with the portable weather station....
not enough time to change jets, just change the predicted E.T. on the window.
OBTW, back in the day, DaveW knew jets.
Thanks Mike. I'm still in school about them.Quote:
Originally Posted by Purple Frog
Quote:
Originally Posted by DanW
Funny you should mention that and that. When we bought our two cars, we picked them up in Las Vegas but, they had not been run since they lived in Atlanta. Not knowing a lot about jetting, I looked up the altitude in Atlanta (about 1.050 ft.) and realized not the much different then here in the Seattle area. Although we live at near sea level, most of the tracks are between 700 and 1,000 feet. That was the last time I thought about jetting :meatball:Quote:
Originally Posted by Purple Frog
Now I can see why you guys were saying no pressure, lol
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/gO...w=w640-h480-no
Man does that aviation gas stink!
Also do I put on two beads on both sides of the center or just one huge bead that covers it all?
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/a5...Q=w477-h635-no
I put a small bead on each joint between the center and rims and then use one finger in a rubber glove to smooth the beads and press the RTV into the 2 joints. It winds up looking like one large bead, but it is very thin in the center.Quote:
Originally Posted by xmazdatracy
I do this with the wheel mounted on my ancient dynamic balancer so I can rotate it easily to smooth the joint.
Avgas stink? Hmmm... Something else going on? Breakdown of the cell?Quote:
Originally Posted by xmazdatracy
What kind of wheels are those?
With my Jongbloeds you put the halves together and the center then on the outside.
Screws come from the back through both halves and into the center piece.
There is then only 1 joint to seal....
During assembly you finger tighten it together, run the bead and let it cure, then torque everything. Creates pressure against the now cured sealant.
AVGAS stink? Not really. Kinda smells sweet to me, and distinctive enough I can tell when a WRX runners in town have taken off their cats to run it. Stinks far less than unleaded and the smell doesn't stay on your hands for very long.
Are you sure that's what you have, because it should be blue.
On my Jongbloeds, I torque 1st, seal later because I do not want anything between the sections to relax later and cause things to loosen. That is an avoidable issue when using sealants. You want metal-to-metal for a solid, non-relaxing joint - that means NO sealant between sections. The sealant will work either way, but sealing last eliminates the loosening issue. This method has worked perfectly 100% of the time for me.Quote:
Originally Posted by BeerBudgetRacing
Is that your fuel cell??
That looks way different from the cells in our 89 and 90
Its blue, and I got it from the only fuel pump at that the airport (very small). And it said 100LL all over it. I guess I just remember what the 110 smells like.:confused:Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick Kirchner
It looks like one of the front compomotives has been in some sort of "instance". The rear of all the fins are smashed/smushed in and the inner rim has a pretty substantial wobble (out of true) with a dent in the middle of the wobble. I will seal them up (dow 832 was in stock down the street from my shop) and just remount the 11/12 year old rains. Ill install them to the car (with a half assed front rig for the fronts) and have the car be able to move to the chassis shop while I have the one piece wheels powder coated. There is always next year. :(
Any one want some 10yr old slicks?
yup, so far no leaks at all. (its been the only thing on this car that hasn't leaked):thumbsup:Quote:
Originally Posted by rickb99
It may look different that what you remember but it looks like the same shape I've seen in a number of them around here.Quote:
Originally Posted by rickb99
Correct - nothing between the contacting parts of the halves. The bead sits away in the groove and final torqueing after creates a slight added pressure on the bead.Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveW
The reality is when inflated the air pressure is pushing that bead further in improving the seal....
Wow Keith,Quote:
Originally Posted by kea
After really looking at it again really closely, I see it now.. LOL. Did not realize the filler neck opening was under the plastic wrap.
That one seems to be in almost too good a condition. Like it was painted.
if you have a gasketed surface, and coat the gaskets with silicone, then torqueing to a value - pick one - 1/3 to 1/2 the final value, letting it cure, and then re-torqueing to a final value is necessary to prevent the silicone from acting like a lubricant and causing the gasket to extrude out of the joint.
Oil pans being different from wheels of course....
Before
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/4o...g=w640-h480-no
after
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/6v...g=w640-h480-no
Not perfect but no need to use duct tape to take in the 2" gap anymore. And yes I know not as much leverage blah blah, but there is always room to improve as I learn how to drive a rear rear with a dog box trans.
These came out great!
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/FN...w=w640-h480-no
looking a bit less lopsided.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/xh...A=w640-h480-no
But a big BIG thank you to everyone who has been helping me out. All your comments and posts are very much needed and used! Happy holidays. Stay tuned for more updates and pics during the holidays...
Man oh man oh man!!!
That wing is a tight fit in the garage :) :ha:
LOL, yeah very tight. but plenty of room in front work on the motor. After cam assembly lubing the cam and letting the marvel mystery oil soak into the piston rings I re gaped the intake and exhaust leashes according to Quick Silvers recommendations found earlier in this thread. If you forgot here is a terrible pic of those numbersQuote:
Originally Posted by rickb99
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Ud...g=w477-h635-no
Just call me the Grinch. Because I bought plenty of presents, but only for me. ha ha!
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ou...Q=w640-h480-no
Did not leak, but still putting in the right one anyway.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/an...g=w640-h480-no
Is this crack something I should get fixed? I would assume these headers get moved around a bit during races, I could be wrong. Thoughts?
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/o3...Q=w477-h635-no
Who wants to tell you bad news on Christmas day? :(
Those headers are probably pretty close to the end of their trail. A talented TIG welder might be able to patch. I've been know to shape another piece to bridge over the crack to provide a bit more meat to weld with. You'll have to grid off the coating. Here's hoping there is still some metal under the coating.
one must remember that 2 liter motor was developed to get mom to the grocery store at 2300 rpms. When we wrap to 6800+ it creates some ugly harmonics. Part of the reason starter motors shake apart. Same with anything attached to the engine.
In an emergency, I've welded cracks like that with an oxy-acetylene torch and mild steel rod, or even a coat-hanger for rod. I had very good luck with that. But there is no guarantee that it would last very long. And the site does have to be very clean (bare metal) for a satisfactory weld.
Back in my early FF days, that was almost an every-race-weekend occurrence with everyone trying to extend the life of mild-steel headers.
Sounds like I should leave it alone and buy a new set or at least that one pipe. :thumbsdown:Quote:
Originally Posted by Purple Frog
Anyone know the fuel pump torque numbers?
8mm bolt torque is 18ft/lbs
If one pipe is thin, they all are thin.
But, i'd braze it/weld it for another season.
Had one like that but worse, it had split in two. A GT-! driver at the track with a welder welded it up for me between runs and the result lasted another year.