Is this something a non-techno savvy person can do?
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Is this something a non-techno savvy person can do?
sort of. You have to be able to use CAD, and the ones designed for 3D are different from those designed for subtractive processes. The slicers used to prepare designs for printing all have unique syntax and right now there's nothing that explains exactly what all these settings do and how they interact. And finally, all of this changes with the materials - for instance, two different colors of ABS from the same manufacturer print differently.
A couple of years back the industry thought they were on the verge of having one of these in every household, but it's a long way from being an appliance.
I realized this morning I needed a transponder mount for my spec miata.
Went to the track borrowed a transponder. Only took me about 30 mins to design. I surprised myself because it was a perfect fit the first time!
Not overly complex but a lot measurements had to line up.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...dbd23a873c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...e0a8ba30b1.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...c3f5fd9fd1.jpg
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How long to print?
john f
Only 2.5hrs on high quality for the words. With the bigger nozzle I pumped one out in 1 hourQuote:
Originally Posted by john f
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My whole car will be made of plastic lol.
Antenna bracket.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...d63b29ac37.jpg
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I’m looking to have a couple small shins made for a wing project. Does anyone here know what the cost for that would be and or does anyone have any interest in printing it for me on this thread. I would cover the costs plus a reasonable fee.
contact me via email at btomasi96@gmail.com for details.
thanks
Brian Tomasi
I'd help but I'm in canada making mailing annoying especially now...
I've been printing like mad, developed some brackets to hold pipe to make alignment bars. Works awesome.
And I designed and made a bird feeder. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...063a4f117e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...7d2b7c899d.jpg
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Think of the possibilities!:
https://www.apexspeed.com/forums/att...id=91289&stc=1
They could even be "color matched" to your livery.
Cheers - Jim
Huh if I knew anything about aerodynamics I'd try that. Likely make it worse.
Finished the front brackets for my alignment jighttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...1b5f2b80c6.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...0a54e76240.jpg
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I printed a small line of VGs to mount right at the break in my Gyrodynamics diffuser. Haven't had a chance to test them yet.Quote:
Originally Posted by phantomjock
They are delicate, I could see having to replace them every few events
But they're cheap!Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick Kirchner
Send pics when you install them, I'd love to see what you're doing.
Latest bits - saddles to support water pipes. Working on some line separators next.
https://www.apexspeed.com/forums/att...id=91324&stc=1https://www.apexspeed.com/forums/att...id=91323&stc=1
To keep braid from wearing through the aluminum and keep things tidy. Wide and narrow linear separators, and one for two items at 90 deg.https://www.apexspeed.com/forums/att...id=91855&stc=1https://www.apexspeed.com/forums/att...id=91854&stc=1https://www.apexspeed.com/forums/att...id=91855&stc=1https://www.apexspeed.com/forums/att...id=91854&stc=1
Nice! Except I think the yellow zip ties clash with the green. Orange works. Black would be better. Get that autumnal vibe.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick Kirchner
Good idea for sure!
I have been printing face shields for medical use. Up to 100 shields now.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamesbe
Us too! We're up to about 110 of them. Feels good to be doing something productive.
I heard you get a few hp out of the black ones if you also use black zip ties. ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by BeerBudgetRacing
Waaaay back at the beginning of March I brought up printed shields/masks to our local hospital and they blew me off. I think China Lake is starting to print shields this week but I don't know who they are going to. Kitsap has been printing for a month and NAVAIR has an approved design going to USFK. For those interested in decent designs that are going through a vetting process look here:
https://3dprint.nih.gov/collections/covid-19-response
Most of these are only suitable for community use (non-medical) or medical folks in a non-clinical environment like lab people. One of the neatest Ideas I saw was a plastic cover for the N95 masks so any droplets would mostly go on the cover, which could easily be sterilized, making it easier to justify using re-using the N95 masks.
My wife sewed up a half-dozen faster than I could print them so I'm going the old-fashioned way.
The grouo I'm working with vetted 2 designs with the hospital. We print them, they sterilize and assemble.
Takes me 1 hour per. So far we have donated around 400 in 2 weeks. The university has done 2000.
The problem is now you can't find material in stock and even if you do shipping takes forever. Next day delivery is now about a week.
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I have a roll of Nylon 6 and a roll of black ABS I'm saving for some good stuff. Both are Kodak 750 g spools. I'm going to start playing around with PTEG again. Early on when I used the stock slicer settings I had so much adhesion that I destroyed 4 build plates. I understand Z offset a bit more now, so I can hopefully play around trying to tune it without creating other problems. I'm going to start with a huge Z and sneak up on getting just enough adhesion.
Weird petg usually has the opposite problem.
I use feeler gauges to set my z height.
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Rick - look nice - but with all due respect I think one can get a better and neater solution with just the 2 tie-wraps.
If the lines, or wires, are more or less in-line then one tie-wrap loosely round both tightened with the second one as a "belt".
If they are at an angle then one tie-wrap round each linked together like a chain. Derek.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick Kirchner
Which was how they were secured originally - along with some 3m rubber traction tape in between. And the vibration still wore holes in the aluminum tubes. Braid in contact with anything is just a #2 file in the long term.Quote:
Originally Posted by dereklola
As long as we are both happy that is fine.
I am surprised the stainless braid wore through your tie-wraps and into the al tube.
I had some on my cars for years with no visible wear - one of the reasons I liked them.
Have fun - Derek
I misunderstood you. Now I get it - your method places zip ties between the tubes - I didn't read it that way. Yep - that would work.
Anyone printing carbon fiber? Brake ducts would be neat to design and print
That would require a very specialized machine indeed. And very expensive.
You can print carbon infused plastic though, but from what I can tell it's mostly cosmetic with a normal printer. Maybe slightly stronger?
I got some aluminum infused and it is really brittle.
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Wasn’t sure anything else could serve as the duct. But then again not really sure how hot the center hub part of the upright gets. The duct would attach on the back and direct air through the center of the axle.
high temp FFF plastics tend to be Nylon and Polycarbonate. you can get them carbon reinforced for strength, not temperature resistance.
They will hold up to about 195 C before starting to deform. However, it takes a special high temp extruder to lay them down (my machine has one).
The carbon fill wears out the nozzles pretty quickly unless its hardened steel or Ruby $$$$.
Fiberglas was used long before carbon. limiting factor is the resin more than the fabric.
I would be inclined to use the printer to make molds for regular layup. Indeed, if I ever have space to set up a printer (and can work one up with at least a 2' or 3' reach in at least one axis) I'll be heading that direction and building up some multi-piece molds for new bodywork... :)
Sadly, these days, I don't even have space for a drill press... :mad:
You're in luck! The Modix Big-120X V3 3D Printer has a 120cm (47.2") X-axis (plus 60cm Y and 66cm Z). I have no relationship with Modix...just sharing a tool source I've been drooling over.Quote:
Originally Posted by 924RACR
I have a friend in a non-racing composites business who uses them to directly print to mold, slicing together sections to make parts up to 20+ feet long. We are evaluating replacing our 8'x4'x2' 3-axis pattern cutting mill with a Modix to eliminate the man hours needed to finish a pattern from which to take molds.
Yeah for sure you could print just the piece that attaches to the hub and then mold fiberglass or carbon over it.
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Thanks for the education on CF printing. I will get to work designing for a mold.
https://www.apexspeed.com/forums/sho...rototype-partsQuote:
Originally Posted by mikey
I have a Qidi x-max, which is about the biggest non-commercial enclosed device you can buy right now. 200x300x200mm build volume.
Since most of these printers are rep rap based, it's fairly "easy" to build huge ones with just some changes to g-code defining the various limits.
I say "easy" because if you were to follow this stuff on various forums you'd be astounded at the variety of problems people have when they get out a bit beyond the norm.
Ok, I've drawn up front and rear spacers that would be useful to be able to bolt the transport wheels on when the brake rotors and hats are not installed. these would only be used for pushing the car around, no real stress. They're required because if the brake rotors and hats are not installed then the transport wheels interfere with the brake calipers, which are reinstalled after removing the rotors just for safe keeping.
Mike or James, would you mind printing 2 each style? Happy to pay you or donate to a charity.
Cheers,
Mike
https://www.apexspeed.com/forums/att...id=92158&stc=1
https://www.apexspeed.com/forums/att...id=92157&stc=1
my 2D drawing skills in paint are getting better LOL
This piece is to smooth the airflow going into the left side pod. Printed in black would be great!
*updated drawing - previously forgot the overall length
https://www.apexspeed.com/forums/att...id=92170&stc=1
Here is the YouTube link:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=1&v=s-vLN4YBRqs&feature=emb_logo
Finally got PETG sorted out. Had been working with nylon and had a lot of spool tangles, so made this anti-tangle spool holder for the nylon. Then I sorted the nylon out and made these nifty tube clamps to support my electronics tray above the engine and behind my head. Had multiple generations of aluminum MS clamps crack and fall apart from all the vibration there. https://www.apexspeed.com/forums/att...id=92727&stc=1https://www.apexspeed.com/forums/att...id=92726&stc=1
Now THAT is trick
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamesbe
Recently joined the cult I mean community of 3D printing. Plan is to make molds for some fiberglass layups and other brackets etc.
So far been learning the cad software (onshape) and printing off models to make sure they are correct. Enjoying Onshape as it has a NACA airfoil generator add on so you just need to know the profile name/# and its done for you.
https://www.apexspeed.com/forums/att...id=93261&stc=1https://www.apexspeed.com/forums/att...id=93262&stc=1https://www.apexspeed.com/forums/att...id=93263&stc=1
something simple, lightweight, and useful:
https://www.apexspeed.com/forums/att...id=93333&stc=1
I have no idea why the image rotated from what's on my desktop.....
Wow now that is simple and very functional!
If you're up for sharing the .stl, Rick, I'd love to print one for my SV engine's coil. Thanks, StanQuote:
Originally Posted by Rick Kirchner
PM me with your e-mailQuote:
Originally Posted by Stan Clayton
Autodesk just released an add-in for F360 that optimizes airfoil shapes for use, speed, and fluid environment. Just downloaded it but haven't installed it yet.
From what the author said, you tell it what you are looking to optimize around (lift, drag reduction, etc) and then tell it the speed regime, fluid, etc and it creates an optimized airfoil for that application.
I'd think this wold be very useful for streamline fairings.
Getting in on the fun....made a hitch plug with our team logo/name
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Jn...-no?authuser=0
This week i made a bunch of props that snap on the (failing) rods that hold up my RV bay doors. They are tow-sided, and store by snapping on the body of the strut.
Also dropped a washer down the oil drain back hole in the pinto. I had magnets that were too big and mounted on a spring-y flexible stick, or small enough but mounted on a rod. So I made a magnet holder for the spring-y stick that holds one of those really strong little dot magnets. heat-melted it all together.
Also made Anderson plug mounts, handles, and a dual voltmeter for the battery bay of my coach. Now I can instantly disconnect power and it's much easier to pull the tray out for maintenance.
https://www.apexspeed.com/forums/att...id=93353&stc=1