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'fraid I don't. Friend of mine here built a small furnace and melts down cans and other aluminum scrap and does his own pours. We've talked about doing a 3d printed item, making a silicone mould, casting wax items off of that, and then the sand mould.Quote:
Originally Posted by samiam1017
honestly, I think you'd be better off taking a piece of bar stock, boring it, tapping it for fittings, and screwing in brass fittings. $10 worth of fittings, $2 of aluminum, and less than 15 minutes on the lathe. heck, if you were careful you could bore it with a hand drill.Quote:
Originally Posted by cory mcleod
Quote:
Originally Posted by cory mcleod
Rick's solution would probably be the best and most durable since the metal pieces will not be affected by the fuel. I would not be comfortable with fuel flowing through a PLA or even ABS piece.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick Kirchner
Nylon will likely work, but that takes a high-temp extruder. I have one and I'll be experimenting in the future with nylon, but it would take more development than one realizes- first proto it in PLA, then work to get a quality part in nylon, thne work to ensure you can print a whole plate of something like a dozen of them without problems before you'd be in a position to supply it.
I thought I had a spare decal at home, apparently it is at the shop with my car (and nose). Let me see if I can get my friend to measure it. It is about 4” wide if that helps.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Garey Guzman
Thanks for the responses!Quote:
Originally Posted by Garey Guzman
Cory
Here are some pics of stuff I designed and printed over the holidays. In the right pic, from left to right, top to bottom:
ARB bearing retainer, Clamp to hold control cables and position handlebar fold spring on my pit scooter (original method was a cheesy piece of neoprene glued around everything, it eventually disintegrated), VD oil tank separator tower block off/service plate (includes an o-ring grove), 90-95 VD front shock can bracket, RV cable entry plug. The collage shows all in use, and a nifty replacement foot for my shop stool!
3D printed carb covers are a big hit ! There were some of these going around the paddock in AZ for a while. They were made for the 32/36. The 38/38 is just different enough that the cover couldn't be used on Pinto.
Yeah, that is something I want to make. My friend made me one from kevlar but now I have more than one car that need a cap! If you know anyone with the ".stl" file, I would love to print that!!Quote:
Originally Posted by CGOffroad
I scanned in a carb last week - just haven't gotten around to figuring out how to bring it into f360 so I can sketch on top of it. I'll get it done in the next few days. Current project is a box to hold the coil, my tach amp, the protection circuitry for the tach amp, and the buss bars/terminal strips for all my connections. Sort of like the old Lucas box for a DFX. I'm discovering just how complex such a thing is with all the internal mounts, support structure, at least two lids, holes for various screws, etc.
When I make a carb cover I'm gonna stick a big-ass chunk of plastic out the side that will prevent me from putting the scoop on if the cover is in place.....
Quote:
Originally Posted by Garey Guzman
The nose in my basement has an outline that measures approximately 5 and 3 in freedom units. :beer::beer:
Anyone have experience with FreeCAD? I have some things that I will need to model and design that might turn intricate. Larger than hobby 3D print stuff. It's on the short list along with Fusion360, SolveSpace, with Blender and Sketchup bringing up the rear. I guess I could download and test em since they are free. I have the option to take classes and get the student Solidworks but then I will no time for anything else in life.
One of the groups where I work has printed a car. I keep trying to get them to bring it out to some kind of competition but they never do. I think they are afraid it would fall apart.They may have also printed a house. 12-15 years ago I wanted work to buy 3D print machines and they all scoffed at me. Now there are half dozen maker bot sized machines across the hallway from my lab.
I had forgotten completely about it, but we had a 3D Printer back at Naval Avionics (now Raytheon) on the East side of Indy back in 1988-ish. It was a huge resin/UV laser system, must have cost a half-mil back then! Made beautiful, high-res models. I can't imagine how difficult the process was - from having to use the custom ComputerVision workstations and software to god-only-knows-what kind of slicers they employed. I think Penske owned ComputerVison at one time.
I got into this during my Science Advisor Tour at Camp Lejeune. The USMC went pretty whole-hog on the thing - from having big ones in the maintenance shops and deployable via a containerized system (scanner, 3D printer, laser cutter, and small 5-axis CNC all in the same box) to setting up maker spaces at Lejeune, Pendleton, 29 Palms, and Oki. I helped put the one at Lejeune together.
When the new Commandant came in, he basically trashed everything we did. This doesn't surprise me - I had three friends work for him as he moved up the ranks and the first thing he did in every job was wipe out virtually everything his predecessor did. I've never understood that style of management.
On the other hand, some of the pioneers in makerspaces have died off (their business model was selling you classes before you could use a machine, along with hourly fees) - they were big in cities where folks couldn't just plop a bridgeport into their apartment. But if you can't make it in DC or NYC given the stupid amount of money people pay for conveniences there, then there must have been something wrong with your overall concept. The ones that have survived seem to be the ones built in shabbier spaces, with estate-sale and liquidation tools and a healthy artist community behind them.
Gary - just download F360. It's a pain, but after a few weeks it gets easier. I could never get Sketchup to do anything useful, although one of my friends here uses it for woodworking. Blender is more for Artists. I've tried a few more, but kept coming back to 360 and living with the learning curve.
very cool
antique bubble balance - bubble holder was too big for race wheels, so printed this.https://www.apexspeed.com/forums/att...id=89540&stc=1
If you have the gps data from an AIM system for example, I have figured out a way to convert that into an elevation map.Quote:
Originally Posted by Garey Guzman
I did calabogie motorsports park myself from scratch.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/tJNvRBrPkbS9cFde6
That's pretty freaking cool!Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamesbe
Data system not working on my Swift but maybe I should get it going again! Now I have more motivation!
James - if it's not too lengthy, I think instructions on that conversion would be very appreciated!
Gary
Sure I'll try to post something tomorrow been a few weeks so I'll have to refresh the steps exactlyQuote:
Originally Posted by Gary_T
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Abbreviated instructions but you should be able to get there with this:Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary_T
You'll need to download the following program : GPSBable https://www.gpsbabel.org/
The best way I could get it to work was to export my data from AIM in CSV format.
Then edit the CVS file header to match the columns depending on your export. The rules are here: https://www.gpsbabel.org/htmldoc-dev...mt_unicsv.html
My file looks like this:
What's really important is the y x z of course. The rest I just use generic supported names so the conversion would work.Code:
comment
name
comment
y
x
z
0
0
0
45.30172
-76.67
183.67
0.1
0.004
0
45.30173
-76.6701
183.67
0.2
0.007
0
45.30173
-76.6701
183.66
0.3
0.011
0
45.30173
-76.6702
183.66
etc....
In GPS bable you suck your CSV in as "Universal csv with field structure in first line" and export as GPX XML format.
Once you have your GPX file you drop it into this website:
https://gpxtruder.xyz/
It will give you an STL.
Got an Ender Pro 3 on black Friday and the first "useful" thing I made is a 1/4" countersink washer to bond behind the bodywork for a flush attachment to the nut plate on the chassis. I tried making them with carbon fiber filament and it worked okay but they don't seem as strong as plain PLA and it really clogged up the extruder. Anybody have success with CF?
https://www.apexspeed.com/forums/att...id=89658&stc=1https://www.apexspeed.com/forums/att...id=89657&stc=1
I wouldn't use pla. Although with cf it may be ok. Petg is stronger, more heat resistant and less brittle.
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just got ender 3
let the fun begin...
carbon need different nozzle and higher temperature to work .
nylon x is better i think
Correct. Even with a hardened steel 0.6 nozzle it still clogged. I was able to get enough washers to print but if I need more in the future I might try PETG.Quote:
Originally Posted by Kazis31
If you’re just wanting to try experimenting, check your local library. They just might have a 3D printer. Visiting my dad this weekend and he showed me a part he made using free online cad software and printing at the library. And he lives in a small town that doesn’t even have fiber optic cable yet!
Tinkercad is best for newbies and it is free online ,get Cura for slicing images
and that is free as well.
I bought PLA with CF, it was from SunTop 3D. I recall raising the nozzle temp to 214 and the bed to 60. The gloss black items in my picture above were plain black PLA (Hatchbox) and the lighter gray was the CF PLA. I haven't tested either for strength or brittleness but I got both types to print quite well. Only 2 failed prints - the very first (releveled bed after fail) and one in the middle of CF roll (I think I forgot to include supports).Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike B
I have found YouTube videos and the FB pages to be great sources of info, both for preventative and diagnostic help.
Not sure what brand I have but I'm not sure it matters. I bought a whole roll so I'll keep trying!Quote:
Originally Posted by Garey Guzman
Oh brand matters so I've found. Some stuff is just junk. But likely an issue with temp or speed or leveling.
I use fusion360 it's very powerful and so far easy enough to use. Tried tinkercad, so complex for simple things I wanted to do as it's limited. It can do lots though if you figure it out.
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This thread motivated me to draw up and print a rain light housing. My existing housing was cracked. Turned out pretty good. Thanks for the motivation! I used Rhino3D and printed out of ABS on a Stratasys uPrint.
Yes, I've read/seen this. Also, if changing filiments, keep the opened spools in a sealed container with desicant inside.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamesbe
Would this be a good time to ask management for a "downloads" section to post these 3d codes (stl/g-code/etc) - for those that want to share? These could be available to site members only, and not-for-profit. Works well on other sites, just thinking there are some ApexSpeed - specific models that might get lost/buried in other CAD/CAM sites (GrabCAD/Thinkverse/etc).
Cheers - Jim
not to mention math channels and various configuration files for data systems! Would be nice if folks started to share that.
I had a series of floating nut plates to install so I made a simple drill guide to help locate the rivet holes. I uploaded the .stl to Thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4153825
Oh good idea!
I've been making drawers and stuff for the wife to organize. Just spent far too much time modifying someone else's design would have been faster to start from scratch, oh well.
Did make this last night for fun. I designed this jack for the front of my PFM.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...048772efbf.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...e3e907cfb0.jpg
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So... would any of you be willing to draw and print a simple part for me? I need a base to capture / secure the bottom of my coolant overflow resevoir.
1.0" total height, 3.5" x 3.5" overall width x length
3.0" dia x 0.6" depth hole
and a 0.95" dia thru hole; all holes / radii are concentric
https://www.apexspeed.com/forums/att...id=90260&stc=1
I can help but I'm in canada so shipping might be dumb. But I can draw it up for you easy enough looks simple enough.Quote:
Originally Posted by mikey
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Well that was easy....
https://youtu.be/a97k-4KzCfE
Link to design: http://drivesideways.com/images/mike...ant_bottle.stl
Only question is, did you leave some gap or is that the exact size of the bottle? Usually need at least about 0.3mm gap for tolerance when 3d printed.
I can drop this in the mail tomorrow afternoon. PM the address.Quote:
Originally Posted by mikey
You guys rock!
James, I didn’t leave a gap, 3.0” is the bottle diameter. Want a tight fit - do I still need a gap?
Also came up with potentially better way to fasten this part to the floor so I might need to make a mod. Will measure first thing in the morning.
Mike
in the hobbyist community there doesn't seem to be much discussion regarding tolerancing - what the machines should be capable of doing and what your basic dimensions and wall widths give you.
I'm sure there's considerable dicussion in the industrial community.
I usually end up with a sander or a file to get the last bit right.
Yeah it depends on many factors, shrinkage is a big one. May print perfect and still contract after cooling.
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Updated drawing. I added 0.625" overall height, and a 1/4" through hole. The resevoir fits in the 3.0" dia x 0.6" deep hole, and as Rick suggested, I could hand sand to fit if it is tight from machine tolerances. The 0.95" hole has changed from 0.4" deep to 0.65" deep (reference from bottom of 3.0" hole to top of 1/4" hole). My apologies if I wasted anyone's time with an incomplete original drawing!
https://www.apexspeed.com/forums/att...id=90261&stc=1
Modifying is pretty easy. I can probably redo it tonight unless Mike was going to draw it.
I have a race at 8 but will try before or after.
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James,
Thanks - Mike already did it! Good luck at your race and thanks again! Can't wait for the day I have enough time to do stuff like this at home myself!
Cheers,
Mike
How is the reservoir mount held in place? There is a flat in plan view that seems like a mounting face but I don't see any holes or a flange to bolt to.
Jim
the 1/4" through hole will have a bolt to the floor. when I updated the mounting provision, I actually could have eliminated the flat side in retrospect, and just gone with a full round 3.5" circle. The flat side as it is just sits flush against the radiator bottom.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Nash
https://www.apexspeed.com/forums/att...id=90383&stc=1https://www.apexspeed.com/forums/att...id=90382&stc=1
This 3D printed reservoir base arrived today. Perfect fit for the Mr. Gasket overflow reservoir. The only thing it’s missing is a Gyrodynamics decal!
Thanks Mike!
Looks great! Glad I could help!
I'm kind of proud of this one.
I had a Lisle generic clutch tool, and the spud that fit in the crank bearing was just a bit sloppy, and the plate slider had grabbed the plate OK, but when I got to the point of tightening the pressure plate I always had to estimate where the middle was. this has led to more than a couple difficult rear clip installations.
So after measuring the bearing, the splines, and the pressure plate fingers I came up with the following device that uses the Lisle bar.
Fits absolutely perfectly with probably no more than a thou or two of wiggle room. now I can line up the pressure plate fingers and as i tighten the plate down the fingers will close on each step, keeping me appraised of whether or not it's still concentric.
First time printing threads. 3/8-16 printed perfectly except for the printer starting each thread in the same spot, so some oozing into the threads, easily cleaned up when inserting the handle.
50 cents of material and 6 hrs printing time.
https://www.apexspeed.com/forums/att...id=90506&stc=1https://www.apexspeed.com/forums/att...id=90507&stc=1https://www.apexspeed.com/forums/att...id=90508&stc=1