Here is a link to the photos from my rebuild showing the improved shoulder belt mounts that Keith did, among other things.
http://www.apexspeed.com/forums/album.php?albumid=71
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Here is a link to the photos from my rebuild showing the improved shoulder belt mounts that Keith did, among other things.
http://www.apexspeed.com/forums/album.php?albumid=71
Looks good! Wonder what the before pics looked like.Quote:
Originally Posted by SWMyers
Did not get to far. spent too much time getting stuff and not enough time working. No one carrys the copper crush washers for banjo bolts... Any way
Before
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/vS...g=w477-h635-no
After
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/HK...M=w640-h480-no
Also is there a fix for this or do I need a new selector rod?
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/53...4=w477-h635-no
As far as the seat and hans stuff is concerned I was going to get that done. Just not quite there yet and also confused on how to get the car to my chassis guy. Trailer is in a non removable storage and the parking lot/entrance to his shop would not allow this car to move. I think I need to make some transport wheels of my own. I think with out the engine in the car adult trike wheels can hold the weight. but thats not for now. My mind is still reeling from all the things I find on this car, and all the info I am ascertaining.
Oh, and hence my name. ALL of my tools are metric. So daily trips to snap-on... I mean Harbor freight
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ff...sExjdM=s635-no
Get a Pegasus catalog.
You can roll the chassis around with those $9 furniture movers from Harbor Freight.
I can't find the picture of it, but assuming you have a truck the front half of the chassis will fit in the bed. I drove my chassis to Averill's, the whole front half assembled, in the bed of my truck. Put it in there with an engine hoist. With the tailgate down the front suspension rested on the tailgate everything else fits in the remainder of the space in the bed.
Send me a PM. My trailer is open for at least the next few months since my body panels are out for paint.Quote:
Originally Posted by xmazdatracy
http://www.apexspeed.com/forums/atta...8&d=1278211780
Thought this was very interesting. I kept my jump battery for the last car. Its a huge yellow top from optima, so I would be able to start and warm up the car with that and then use a smaller odyssey battery for the sessions. Now I just need to figure out which one. Back to the interwebs!
Im thinking PC545, because I will be using the jump battery to start the car and warm it up. What about MSD ignition? Will that require any additional Ah's?
Went with the pc680 from apex battery
PC680 runs my Reynard for multiple sessions between charges.
The PC680 is correct, especially if you are religious about using a jump battery.
The PC925 eliminates the need for a jump battery, but weighs 9 lb. more. On the up side, if you stall after an exciting 570 spin, it will have the juice to restart. :)
The biggest single complaint over the years concerning Reynards has to do with the "custom" starter. Stock toyota starters must be modified to fit the starter bracket assembly, and to connect to the long pinion shaft. Then the next hurdle is the proper alignment of pinion gear in relation to the flywheel. That involves making sure the oilite bushing in the bellhousing is in proper condition (purchase from Averill), and the pinion shaft from the starter nose to that bushing is aligned for smooth operation.
I established a happy relationship with an old-fashioned auto electric shop that actually rebuilt starters etc. Thus i was able to continue the use of an 25 year old starter.
The pinto vibrates with a unique frequency that loves to fracture the wiring inside the solenoid. Those internal wires need to be "potted" with vibration damping material.
The good news about a proper pinto race engine. It usually only takes a split second to start. The starter and pinion don't usually wear out from use. Most failures are from fractures of the internal wiring.
Back in the day, when CFC racing was big in the SEDIV and many Reynards were running, on double weekends the Sunday race was usually highlighted by what Kummer called the "ceremonial push starting of the Reynards". :)
Interestingly, if you know you don't have a way to start on track, you might be a bit more careful not to have occasion to stall the pig. :)
What PF said about the solenoid wiring: If it hasn't been done already take it apart and glue the wires where they are soldered or they will fail.
Yes, the MSD does add to the Ah's but I cannot recall how much. Anybody else know the answer.Quote:
Originally Posted by xmazdatracy
1 amp per 1k rpm from what I've heard.
Whatever you can't find here, you can usually source from Pegasus Racing:Quote:
Originally Posted by xmazdatracy
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...?clickkey=7239
I've had to find the odd thing elsewhere -- like certain weld-in bungs, but for the most part, Aircraft Spruce has been my best and cheapest go-to for AN and ANS stuff.
I found the MSD was not worth the expense, weight, nor potential for problems.
YMMV
Points and Bosch Blue Coil.
The Pinto does not turn enough RPMS to need fancy failure prone electronic ignition systems.
Points are for arrowheads. I always ran a petronix and Bosch Blue coil.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Purple Frog
does it really need Petronix? if so, why?Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Demeter
Although we had an MSD in one of our cars, I never found any advantage to it over points and condenser. .
When I ran the Pinto engine, and switched to a magnetic pickup from points, the engine ran noticeably smoother. That indicated that the timing of ignition pulses with the points was not as uniform as with the magnetic pickup. This resulted in a small increase in HP.Quote:
Originally Posted by Purple Frog
Sorry to interrupt fellas, but a quick question and we can get back on topic. Is there supposed to be play in the input shaft? Its just a little, but new to me.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Mu...J=w477-h635-no
Yes, the bearing in the flywheel/crank holds it steady when assembled.
That is a nice and clean bellhousing. Good sign.
Notice the cutout at the bottom of the bell. The flywheel is potentially exposed at that point. You don't want it striking the track (think curb jumping). Very important that you have a skid steel protecting that area.
Factory steel skid with supports, one on each side.Quote:
Originally Posted by Purple Frog
Found this how to;
"1st- remove rear cover of Hewland
2. split the trans from the engine. tilt the trans so rear cover is down and bell is about 45 degree up..tires and wheels were left on. this took me 1 1/2 hours as i had quick disconnects on clutch and brake lines. caution - there is a coupler that connects the input shaft to the lay shaft.tjis is why you need to maintain the 45 degre tilt so coupler does not came off.
3. i fabricated a shaft puller, but averill said he once used a rope to pull the input shaft/slave cylinnder. if you do not have puller, try the rope trick. secure one end to the shaft, secure the other to a 2 x 4 spanning the bell housing..note-you should have removed the 3 bolts and two dowel pins that station the throwout bearing asembely..
as you take up slack on rope the whole aluminum assby and input will come out..you may have to gently tap one of the dowel throwout bearing assembly slots as you tighten up your puller..the whole thing will pop out
if i remember therr are two internal o rings on the throw out assmebly slider and three on the input shaft/housing assemebly..they are NOT inch..they are metric- avaerilll sells whole o ring kit for $ 20.00 and i keep a spare kit and the puller in the race trailer..
on re-assembly
remove oil filler tank and you can guide the input/slave assembly into place. one more thing...
once you replace this shaft/cylinger assmebly make sure to turn the input shaft and you can feel the rear gear turning ,,this is why you remove the rear cover,,,so connector is inplace and you are good to go.
if you really wanted too, you could have removed the nut holding this gear and tapped the layshaft that ould have mvoed the input shaft, and you could pop out the above assembely this way as well...but it is a bear to do this by your self.."
ok. but what do they look like, and where to they go?Quote:
Originally Posted by kea
I know this is blasphemy in some quarters... but.. when it comes to Reynard clutch slaves, I always believed "if it ain't broke, don't fix it." :)
Of course, I only used the clutch about 6 times a weekend, so there was little wear. :D
i always had a spare set of Averill O-rings in the race trailer. Still do. :confused:
Don't go crazy with brake clean around the seals.
Three of my Reynards had skid plate fabed out of steel angle iron that looked basically like this CAD drawing:
The supports are fabricated steel tubes that go between the lower mounting ears on the motor to the skid plate in PF's CAD(:eek:) drawing.Quote:
Originally Posted by xmazdatracy
I've got a proper set supports that I'll give you if you send me your mailing address.
Steve
Lol, oh it worked... you just had to push on the clutch pedal to engage and then reach down and pull back on the clutch pedal to release.Quote:
Originally Posted by Purple Frog
sure!Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveG
Hello gentlemen, I found this gem sitting at the bottom of the diff area of the Reynard. I was hoping someone could please let me know if this presses on to the input hole or can I worry about this after I replace the clutch slave (connect the input shaft to the layshaft) and fix it later when I open the side plate??????
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Uq...R=w477-h635-no
Layshaft bearing from the back of the diff housing? You need to pull the side plate at the very least. Part # 18 of Illustration "B" in Hayes document in next post.
The Reynard gearbox is a a custom Reynard housing with Hewland MK9 internals...
I've always left the input shaft in when i change clutch slave seals. YMMV
On older Mark 9 boxes there was a very long bolt that held the two shafts together. On the Reynard box it is not used.
Well found lots of stuff on Hewland but nothing on the Reynard. I did not want to take the side plate off with it upright, but I feel that that piece laying in there is some type of splash guard that presses into the input shaft hole. So I will need to do that before I put the shaft back in.
My throw out bearing is stuck on the shaft tube and will have to press it off. I will be replacing it. Its pretty noisy/grindy and I know it could still be used, but I will be keeping this car for a long time and want to do stuff right.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/I-...K=w477-h635-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/g6...S=w477-h635-no
But I am glad that I have taken out the input tube since I found the random part in the diff housing, and also the sludge...
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Il...V=w477-h635-no
This job is not hard to do, I grabbed my bearing puller and was able to get the clutch tube and the throw out bearing out with ease (bearing is stuck onto the tube). And then affixed the bearing puller on the input shaft and took a long crow bar (mechanics best-friend) and that popped out with some effort.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/zK...D=w477-h635-no
Now I hope these o-rings are correct as the three o-rings for the outside all seem to be the same size, but on the tube the rear sealing area seems to be a bit smaller in diameter than the two front.
EDIT: Yes after actually doing it the o-ring kit fits perfect. The o-rings up by the clutch are tighter for I would assume the hydraulic pressures, and the o-ring back by the diff still fits nice and tight. I was worried because the old ones where falling off from I would assume from age. I took the shaft out to make life easier, but you dont have too.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Av...d=w640-h480-no
But I am positive I will be kept busy until I can call Averill Monday. As every step I take I find a new stripped bolt or poorly executed helicoil.
I noticed your engine is painted gray. 15 years ago that usually meant it was a Dixon engine. Some Dixon motors had the centrifical advance in the distributor locked solid. Then the engine was timed for max advance. It made for very hard starting in cold weather. Sometimes even "kicking back", which tore up starters.
I always ran with an active advancing distributor. With a timing light you can set full advance around 3000 rpm,
YMMV
After that discussion about ignition I totally interrupted, and some research I will be switching this cars ignition. I want to have a easy starting car that is very reliable. I like to bench race after the race and be social, not hunt down gremlins all night before the next mornings practice. Also this car was sold to Jeremy as a "0 hour Ivey engine" :rolleyes:Quote:
Originally Posted by Purple Frog
That tear down is coming up...
I'm not familiar with what color Ivy paints engines. Someone will chime in. or you can search this site.
I wouldn't tear apart a $9,000 engine if it truly is fresh. I'd call the builder. The builders stamp the head and block with their ID numbers. Not hard to research. I have found the builders to freely tell what they did on the last trip through their shop.
Froggie,Quote:
Originally Posted by Purple Frog
Jay paints his engines a maroon color. About the same color of the logo on the company web page.
http://iveyengines.com/index.htm
My throwout bearing has always been "Locktighted" on the aluminum sleeve....heat it up...pull it off....I replace every time the engine is out.... YES Ivey engines are maroon......Bruce
NOTE: there are two sleeves on the back of the side cover where it mounts to the rear main.
After I figured that I found this little guy hanging out just waiting to give me a DNF.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ZC...b=w477-h635-no
Seems it was glued into place.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Tl...e=w640-h480-no
I will first peer into the motor before I go nuts, but from the looks of the out side it was not professionally built. Also Jeremy only put two practice sessions in before the water pump went... so.... yeah.
This place is full of info!
http://beltpalace.com
Edit: this place, as in Apexspeed... Sorry I read this after I posted and it looked like I meant the link.
Also this is everywhere but I would like to post this in my thread too.
http://www.reynardowners.com/pubs/88...d_tech_man.pdf
It has essential torque numbers that have clearly been ignored before me. But rest assured whom ever buys/gets the car after me that I use them with one of these. Not to mention me fixing of all the striped bolts n nuts as I go.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/IO...B=w427-h320-no
Also I guess hylomar would make sense if you are removing the side plate every race or two, but I dont plan on that so I used RTV ultra on reassembly.
Layshaft. It has a up and down orientation.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/mG...F=w477-h635-no
And the input shaft back in place. Notice there is some residual glue left from some one gluing in that piece that does not belong in there. There is a seal inside the cylinder up against the input shaft itself and the seal I just changed on the outside against the Reynard case. No need for anything else. If its leaking, then you need to replace those two. :thumbsup:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/wp...w=w640-h480-no
Whenever I have something like this, I tend to get the dremel out and cut most of the way through the race. Once a good slot is cut, generally prying in the slot with a big screwdriver will snap the stuck part. Fast and effective with less risk to the part I'm saving.Quote:
Originally Posted by xmazdatracy
I know this thing is older than my last race car I bought new, but what goes wrong with these things? This looks OK and the foam in the inside looks like its in good shape, so who mandates that this thing needs to be changed every 5 years? And how can they know, I mean its under the seat inside a aluminum cover... Oh and its 15 years old.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/am...l=w477-h635-no
The problem with fuel cells that need replacing are,
1) they leak
2) the foam inside starts to crumble and ends up in the fuel pump/carb.
The leak can be check by placing the cell on some paper and fill it. Does the paper show signs of seepage/leak.
Some leaking is from age or wear on something it rubs on in the cell area, others are from someone missing their mark when operating a drill.
The foam is another problem.
The factory cells did not have an access panel to allow you to get inside and replace the foam.
It's easy to replace it now......no fun later
I know of no mandate to change them.
I have raced with some that are 20 years old.
The ONLY thing that this car has not leaked was fuel. I poured out about 4 gallons of varnish from the fuel cell. However I will try and pull out the foam from the tiny fill neck and see what shape that is in. But more importantly I will put a pressure tester on it and let it sit for a bit on some paper and see what happens. Like I said this thing is not brittle and looks good.
Right on the fuel cell states that it needs to be replaced in five years, and looking up fuel cell info it states that these things need to be replaced. But I will replace the foam if needed to prevent clogging. Other than that I will save money to keep making this car safe in other ways.
Also I got some supports in the mail from SteveG. Thanks, I really needed some good help. I have hit a hard wall on my limit of stripped bolts and almost everything in this car. I think I have spent the most money on new hardware, taps, and Heli-Coil kits.
I'd be very careful pressurizing a fuel cell.
They are not under pressure when in use.
Just saying.
YMMV
The cell maker may say to change it every 5 years, but SCCA doesn't.
If you get the old foam out, you can put new foam in by cutting it up into numerouse tennis ball sized pieces.
Rick Kirchner posted a very good procedure for leak testing a cell for seepage.
http://www.apexspeed.com/forums/show...ghlight=talcum
You know Purple, something really needs to be done to clarify this issue which you and I have had a mild disagreement on over the years. Every single fuel cell manufactured for racing has a statement associated with it that says it's to be replaced after 5 years or, may be recertifed for one additional 2 year period of use by the manufacturer.Quote:
Originally Posted by Purple Frog
Despite the above we both know of fuel cells well over 20 years old and still in use. And, we see several posts per year here by people who have weeping or leaking fuel cells asking how to fix it rather then replace it.
I guess it's going to take a couple of fuel cells erupting in flames going down the track before this issue is addressed OR get the FIA to realize the error of its ways and extend the useful life of a fuel cell to 10 or 15 years instead of 5 (which really should be done just as harness life was extended).
I have found fuel cells stored full of racing fuel in air-conditioned shops, in cars that are kept clean and vacumned, last a very long time.
I am not in favor of driving with a leaking/weeping cell. I found that Hartwig repairs them at a reasonable price.
The manufacturers stickers are on the cells to benefit the manufacturers.