That's my concern with the size and closeness of the 2 buttons. Responding when gloved....Quote:
Originally Posted by 924RACR
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That's my concern with the size and closeness of the 2 buttons. Responding when gloved....Quote:
Originally Posted by 924RACR
So what was the final cost for this version was it $549? It comes complete correct? I don't need any add ons?Quote:
Originally Posted by BeerBudgetRacing
Brian
Yes - $549+12.94 shipping = $562.93 delivered. I don't believe there are any add-ons.Quote:
Originally Posted by BrianT1
You'll need to add your own power connector, mounting parts, and a pile of zip ties ;)
They include Velcro for the display. It's very small and light.
My concern is how I'm going to mount the RF unit with the antenna exposed since my whole shock cover removes as one unit.
I'll have to research if it can stick out the side.....
My AIM GPS receiver is under the shock cover and works fine. I'm hoping this unit can be mounted similarly.
I've got a few projects ahead of this right now.
My RF antenna ended up just under the overhang of my carbon upper body, and didn't seem to really have any problems with that...
Quote:
Originally Posted by BeerBudgetRacing
1) So you hit both buttons, what difference will it make.
2) If you do not respond you will get better service.
Brian
Yep ! ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Hardingfv32
But it might be the difference between FCY and calling a red flag ?
I've been working with the flagtronics a lot over the last 8 months including CAN integration into an AIM MXS unit.
I'll try to answer some of the questions that seem to be floating around. My experience pertains to the original FT200 with combined display/brain so I apologize if any of the info I provide doesn't translate perfectly to the new separate display unit.
Antenna Reception is overall pretty good in my experience. I've run the unit at Sebring, Road Atlanta, Road America, and Mid-Ohio and had no issues to speak of. My unit is mounted entirely under a removable fiberglass panel and there doesn't seem to be any interference to speak of.
Medical Alarms can be overactive with stiff suspension cars, especially formula cars, so the developers have released a version of the firmware that ignores some of the vibrations that tend to set off the high G alarms that the device might interpret. This had definitely been a problem at Sebring, but my devices were flashed with this firmware recently at Road America by one of the devs and so far so good. I believe as long as you have updated your firmware after 4/22/24 you should have this improvement but I am looking into that.
Buttons - In a situation that raises a medical alarm on the device, pressing either button will indicate to the officials that the driver is okay.
CAN Integration has been really simple from the Flagtronics side of things. Obviously all of our cockpits are tight on real estate, so I actually decided to just bury my head unit and all of my flagging information comes up on my AIM MXS dash. I've used the CAN data to trigger icons and alarms based on the flagcode being received, so a FCY will cause my whole dash to go yellow and indicate a FCY for 5 seconds. This also applies for other major flags like red flags, black flag all, and checkered. Additionally, I am able to feed the flagcode data through to my Smartycam and show live flagging on my video feed, which is super useful for reviewing incidents.
I'll be at Summit Point with FRP from Aug 16-18 if anyone has any questions or would like some help in person.
Great info. Now I feel I don't need to overthink this!Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon.Farmer
Thank you.
The super tour staff repeatedly told me there was no one from flagtronics at the June Sprints. Is finding a FT dev the only way to get these flashed?Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon.Farmer
All you need to do it yourself is a Win10/11 laptop, an internet connection and a USB cable. The instructions are on the FT website.. but you might have to search for them. Just download their software program and install it. When you RUN that program it will log into their website to find the latest version of firmware. Connect to your FT unit (plug the USB cable into your laptop) and the program will update your device for you. It's reasonably intuitive.Quote:
Originally Posted by brian styczynski
Steve, FV80
The windows app (FT Device Manager) can be found at
https://flagtronics.com/pages/downloads
I met with their dev the next weekend at the Trans-Am/SVRA/FRP speed tour, he happened to find me so it was mostly luck on my end.Quote:
Originally Posted by brian styczynski
I've sent him an email looking for clarification on whether that FW is available through the setup app or if it is still being withheld at this time. I'll let you know when I get an answer.
Can the Flatronic be integrated with a Aim Evo4 on a FF/Honda?
JM
Evo4 is the logger; wouldn't it also depend on what you're using for a display, and does it have the color capability the Flagtronics would need?Quote:
Originally Posted by Messenger Racing
Should have specified - We use the G dash in all of our late model Van Diemen - it is not a color display but the warning lights are color and message screens can be tied to the warning lights.
No. The Evo4 is not able to get the custom CAN messages from the FT unit to incorporate it. You would have to upgrade to an Evo4s (and GS Dash).Quote:
Originally Posted by Messenger Racing
I appreciate itQuote:
Originally Posted by Steve Davis
Gents:
My Stack wiring harness connectors are watertight. Are these?
https://www.apexspeed.com/forums/att...d=112305&stc=1
Full disclosure, I'm not a fan of this, yet, but there are dozens of various messages displayed in various color combinations that a half-dozen shift lights can't possibly display.Quote:
Originally Posted by Messenger Racing
No. They do not have the rubber seal in the connectors.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick Iverson
I have an Aim Evo 4s with a formula wheel. Is there a way to buy the cheaper flagtronics system and then run the lights and message through my formula wheel display? I have yet to see anyone do this so I am not sure and would appreciate any help or suggestions
the car is a zetec FC, not sure if that matters.
thanks,
Brian
I can't be sure, but I doubt it.Quote:
Originally Posted by BrianT1
Having seen Flagtronics in action in TAm, my concern with running the info into an existing dash would be whether Flagtronics messages would "take over" the display for extended periods of time, leaving you otherwise blind regarding your vehicle?
(edit: flagtronic messages just don't pop up then vanish moments later as some people might think)
See post #665 from RomomanQuote:
Originally Posted by BrianT1
The 4S CAN can do it. But can the wheel display - I'm not sure.
The ORIGINAL FT unit WILL output the necessary CAN signals.
BUT how are you going to press the buttons?
Brian- you have a VD- look at the picture in post #89. I mounted the original model in less than an hour- it works great.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Demeter
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick Iverson
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick Iverson
Although Necessity is the Mother of Invention, I most certainly hope someone from Flagtronics is monitoring this thread. Responding to “potential customer feedback” is how you stay in business. If you are out there:Quote:
Originally Posted by BeerBudgetRacing
- Provide an option of removing the mounting feet from the aluminum extrusions for formula cars;
- Tapped 8-32 or 10-32 holes on all sides;
- Watertight all electrical connectors. We race in the rain, open cockpit.
Does the Flagronic ever display text or is all the information communicated through colors? The reason I'm asking is that my uncorrected close up vision would preclude my being able to read any text.
just dozens of various colored pixel combinations representing flags, no text that I've ever seenQuote:
Originally Posted by APEowner
I think some of the conditions do have a letter or two, but not many... like Black Flag all...Yellow has a "Y" that I recall.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lotus7
Thanks. That alleviates one of my concerns.Quote:
Originally Posted by 924RACR
It will give you letters BF, FCY, SLO, G, Y, R and probably more in addition to the colors. It will start a timer when you enter the pits. The 'SLO' tells you if you're speeding in the pit lane, and if you are going too fast during a 'code 35' situation. It is all logged and monitored in race control. They know exactly where you are on track or off the track including how far off (and in the pits and paddock), how fast you are going, and what the G force was if you crash.
It's a pretty nifty system, especially when everybody on track has it.
We used to call that "big brother" ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Wright
Not sure you should use the words "used to". Just think about the google ads that show up when you mention something in front of Alexa or near your iPhone. :D
[Captain Obvious]The corners know where you are. All this does is shorten the communication links needed for the Operating Steward to make a decision[\Captain Obvious]Quote:
Originally Posted by BeerBudgetRacing
Not when you go off-track out of sight!! This seems to fix that - though I don't wish to test it... LOLQuote:
Originally Posted by Peter Olivola
It also avoids confusion trying to identify which car is off in a barrier and partly obscured... which otherwise can easily take a lap or more to resolve...
Again [Captain Obvious] I was responding to the aversion to being under constant observation. Of course, your points just extend that. [\Captain Obvious]Quote:
Originally Posted by 924RACR
I installed the FT-RD and powered it up and everything worked.I then tried to power it off and it wouldn’t power down.
I called Flagtronics and they said they needed to do a firmware update and they will have that available at the Runoff’s.
You have to disconnect the small connector that goes to the auxiliary battery or it will just continue to display.
So much for having it ready ?
Tim MinorFc88:yellowflag:
At least the previous versions (the original single unit) will continue to display for about 5 minutes.. or about the time it takes to run the battery down. In my case, I DISCONNECTED the line to the battery (a simple connector) so that it DIES when the ignition switch is shut off. I will need to reconnect it for any events I attend that actually have the FT 'in play'.. only the HST's or Runoffs. The battery is there to keep the FT unit functioning in the event of a crash with loss of power to the unit. It would allow the signal to continue to race control for an additional ~5 minutes after the crash. You can shut it down manually by pressing BOTH buttons for about 5 seconds .. or maybe 10? I disconnected it because turning the switch on activated FT IN MY SHOP - continuously keeping the battery pretty exhausted. Disconnecting it allows the battery to retain at least some of its charge.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim Minor
Steve, FV80
This is very new hardware that is not used by only a few competitors and very few sanction bodies. It is going to take a little time to debug it. Comes with the territory for early adopters.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim Minor
Brian
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim Minor
I want to have one in my car for next season, but that sort of teething issue is why I'm waiting until winter to buy one. Hopefully after debugging during this Runoffs it will be pretty close to a "final" version.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hardingfv32
I read his comment as they shipped a product they knew didn't work with we will fix it later. That isn't debugging...Quote:
Originally Posted by Hardingfv32
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim Minor
WTF! I'm working on my install now. The battery is going to be under my seat, so based on this I need to remove the seat and fire bottle cover to turn it off until the Runoffs? What the hell needs to happen to waive the requirement for this years runoff?. This is beyond stupid at this point.
It doesn't turn off when you press a button (or both buttons) for 5 seconds? Mine does.
May I assume the unit is had wired to the cars electrical system?
If so would not the status of the system battery be irrelevant? When you energize the car you also energize the FT unit. I personally see no need for the battery or the need to turn the FT off. There is no way I am going to remember to turn it off.
If what I have stated is true, then there is no rush to upgrade the software for this one issue.
Brian
The unit is Supposed to power down after 15 minutes,it was Supposed to be turned off manually by holding the Top button for 5 seconds,neither worked.
I’m not against this system,but implementation of this,untested before the Runoff’s is not a good plan in my opinion.
Tim MinorFc88:yellowflag::yellowflag:
I said long ago that it was not ready for prime time.
Now the unfortunate folks that have had to purchase them for the Runoffs are getting screwed.
Come on sending a product out knowing that it will not work properly????
What kind of company is this???
And so it doesn't, what exactly are the negative consequences of this issue is to the normal on track function of this system?Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim Minor
You guys are trying to make an issue out of nothing. Sound like someone is still a little unhappy with the requirement to have the system.
Brian
Gents:
There is safety in numbers. Just say’in
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Demeter
https://www.apexspeed.com/forums/att...d=112318&stc=1Jay have a look at my installation it may work for you.Quote:
Originally Posted by Messenger Racing
https://www.apexspeed.com/forums/blo...3-92d175ede3ebhttps://www.apexspeed.com/forums/blo...b-8807430e614ehttps://www.apexspeed.com/forums/blo...f-4640e3f2c716
On track, nothing, but,Quote:
Originally Posted by Hardingfv32
Vehicle battery run-down overnight, in the trailer traveling, in the shop .... ?
depth perception not obvious, but does that install have adequate knuckle clearance when turning?Quote:
Originally Posted by Hartley
:confused:Quote:
Originally Posted by Lotus7
Why wouldn't shutting off the master switch prevent that? Does the FT have to be wired to have (car-battery) power even with the master off? I shut off the master any time car battery power is not needed.