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Never having heard of a locked distributor such as this. I was totally baffled when we first put a timing light on it. Very strange, no matter what I tried, the advance always said 38 degrees. Took me a while to realize what was going on, then it was trying to figure out if it was okay.. This was in the little black car to the left.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Purple Frog
Quote:
Originally Posted by Purple Frog
Never put a timing light on it last year. Guess I did pretty good by ear. I was off by one degree. Its a regular dizzy with mechanical advance. Thread is getting so long even I am forgetting what was covered. Thanks again!Quote:
Originally Posted by xmazdatracy
A very BIG thank you to tapandrack for helping me acquire some Reynard parts. There have been a few folks here that have been more than generous to help me get going on this next chapter of my racing habit. I mean hobby. And I mean thanks is just not enough. Truly appreciative of all and any help I have found here at Apexspeed! I cant wait to finish this body work and get the car back on the tracks. Especially Gingerman, my old home track. Now with a few more modern bits I hope to see some results. Oh, and no muffler this year. These pintos are quiet!
Why do you say that? We have a 103 dB sound limit at our 'best sound tracks. At others it's 98 dB. We needed a muffler at all tracks to meet those limits. Portland International is one of the 103 dB limits and one day, I even had to repack the muffler to meet 103 dB. Cloudy low over cast day with a lot of moisture in the air. We had two different Pinto engined cars and the muffler situation was the same on both.Quote:
Originally Posted by xmazdatracy
We've ran our Pinto sans muffler for a few years at both Kent and Portland.
Never ran a muffler.
That said, tailpipe length and position can play a role. Sometimes the pipe can be positioned so that sound is reflecting off the rear wing end plates and you get an artificially high reading especially if the end plates are aluminum.
Most drivers meetings will tell you where the sound station is. I carried an Autozone 45 degree bend tail pipe extension in the trailer. One time I had to install it pointing away from the sound station. Pointing it down also helps.
Never ever figured out Jacek Mucha could pass sound with his rotary beast. :confused:
Xmazdatracy's and the 86 Reynard I had were both from the Detroit area and both had mufflers due to the fact that Waterford Hills have very strict noise regulations. Under 75db and have to run a muffler.
Ahh, yes quiet compared to my last car. That an apparently the cars I was running up against. I had my last cars exhaust dump right under me and it reverberated in that tin can making me think it was the loudest car out there. That is until I started getting closer to the front of the pack. THOSE cars where so loud I could no longer hear mine!!! Of course I would be right under their rear bumper (or the occasional bump draft). Luckily I sold it to a guy who ran it with us at MC, and I got the chance to finally hear it from the pits. That car really is not that loud. I also got to hear HD's from the pits (no muffler) it was even quieter.
But like PF said we have some ear bleedingly loud rotorys and they never get black flagged. I think the Blackhawk owner is even buying up all the land around the track as to keep the complainers away. And Gingerman I think just for 2 hours on sunday is quiet time (there is a church across the street). The rest of the time its the same group of cars never getting a black flag at Gingerman. Road America.... That place is just too big.
But thankfully the header set did come with a 45* tip. That somehow does make a big difference. I made sure with my last car to have the tip ever so slightly point infield away from the sound guy at Blackhawk (always at the same spot with MC).
Oh, and I am done with smoothing the body work out. Now filling primer??? Or do you guys think I should do gel coat??? I will be buying paint here in the next day or two. For now I need to dust and clean the entire house (slight over site on my part of sanding in the basement with no ventilation).
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/4Q...l=w846-h634-no
I always painted a color that i could match with racing tape. Just saying.
Paint is lighter than gel-coat. Light bodywork is the way to get a Reynard to minimum weight.
IMO, on the body filler or Gelcoat - I just paint right over the Bondo. However, that leaves some pinholes, etc. If you are OCD about the finish that won't satisfy you. For me, I have to repair too often to put in all the work for it to be perfect, only to have to fix it again in a few months. My rule is "looks good from 10 feet away or over 50 mph."
Another recommendation. Sit on your butt fifteen feet in front of the car. Look at it. Imagine you are looking at it though another driver's convex mirror. Come up with a color scheme/pattern that makes you visible. One reason I don't think much of black/gray/silver noses; they blend in with the track.
Good example: DaveW's yellow nose.
Don't make it easy for the other driver to say "I did't see you in my mirrors."
Holidays are great for having the house to yourself!
One coat primer and pin hole filler (reminds me of a strawberry)
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/xQ...d=w476-h634-no
Two coats of primer and ready for paint.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/BO...f=w846-h634-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/CB...d=w846-h634-no
Looking good! 4 weeks until the first race!
Hey HD! Happy resurrection day. I was looking into stuff to do next winter and found our GCR out of date (I left a note on the forums, but I dont know if anyone uses the forums there anymore). Also my car as well. Since my car was last raced in 07' there has been a few changes to the pinto. You can now loose over ten pounds in the flywheel, gain 2-4hp with a up-rated cam, and now that 5.7 rod and piston thing PF got passed (not to mention they are over 500gm lighter too). I wish I knew that stuff when I had the motor out last winter (but I guess the rod thingy was not passed yet). Besides the rear calipers with the two piece rotors in the rear, and two more lightened CVs I dont think I can do anything else to the car this season.
How is the new car? Did you need any pit crewing help? After racing in the snow last race I am not to eager to get in the car when its this cold outside.:thumbsdown:
Good to hear from you X Mazda I also have been in contact with Council in regard to the GCR and changes needed for our engines. No response yet from them. There is also a discrepancy in regard to zetec powered cars. One area indicates they should run with us in FC another area says they should run in class A. Personally I think they should be with us.Quote:
Originally Posted by xmazdatracy
I can always use help in the pits. My buddy Bill is moving to Tennessee so I've lost him for the season Kevin will be along. I sure hope this weather warms up because I don't relish running in the cold either. Lynn Serra me to be an instructor at the banquet and I said yes so I will be up there regardless. The car is ready to go. Biggest change I made was all new rotors and calipers. Probably could have been fine with the old ones but I just hated the rust. Also think I took off about 10 lb by doing so.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Purple Frog
As a FF driver occasionally grouped with FC/FA cars, we really appreciate bright identifiable wings on the FC/FA cars so that we can move over when appropriate. I have been called out a couple of times for not moving over while being lapped by FC cars, but the white VD with the black wings looks identical to the white VD without wings that I was racing. If I would have seen the wings, I would have moved over. Please do both of us a favor and make the leading edges of the wings obnoxiously bright and easy to identify....it will make for an easier, more enjoyable race for all involved. Thank you. (Preacher mode disengaged, going back to my FF hole now.)
My wings are white. I am also trying to get some more white onto the pods this year too. However in MC they instruct the over taker to make all the moves and the over takie to sit still and stay predictable and enjoy your time on the track and stay looking forward watch the corners and don’t do anything weird.
After wet sanding/buffing, and removing a run that ran almost the entire length of the pod.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/eE...R=w476-h634-no
Mid buffing outside. (finally a nice day) Its hard to tell but left side done right side still 1500 grit.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ox...P=w476-h634-no
My new parachute (rear tail piece) mounted and ready to race. I cut it right so you can see the Reynard on the trans box at eye level. Kinda cool!
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pT...U=w846-h634-no
And the finished pod. took many months but the price was right and the satisfaction was maximized. (a bit dusty in the photo,sorry)
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Kv...2=w846-h634-no
before picture if you forgot. (it got ripped unloading the car)
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/qb...l=w476-h634-no
I am still waiting on new livery to be created. I hope to have that soon too.
Very nice work. Car looks ready to go. Did you change your mind about this weekend?
OK, car is now ready for a few races this year. Still getting the car up to par (rocker arm par at least). Got a TDI aluminum diff and installed that over the winter as shown in previous posts. Got the Willwood LD20's for the front and TDI two piece hat n rotors non scalloped. The brake pads still hang off the back of the rotor by about 3-5mm. I guess that may be due to the aluminum uprights. However I do not need spacers to run the Compomotive Wheels! Got LD19's for the rear with TDI two piece rotors scalloped. Had to tweek the aluminum upright drivers side to make the mounting points even, but not that hard. Then all 4 TDI lightened CV's. Also replaced the gun-drilled axles with TDI's hollow axles. The 90SF already comes with lightened output shafts so good there. I will spend some more seat time this year trying to master the dog box, and after that I will move on to updating the pinto, and getting the shift linkage a very much needed overhaul. I guess there is still more to this build thread...
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/5c...c=w476-h634-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/wB...n=w846-h634-no
love them but pics!!!
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Fe...1=w846-h634-no
New nuts and bolts for the wheels now that they have clearance.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/D7...t=w846-h634-no
I'll try and keep this short.
Did get to do a few races this year. Unfortunately the one I qualified behind HDsporty I had found my throttle cable was hanging on by a thread on my routine pre race checks, and I decided to just call it quits after one lap as the recovery crew some times are a little rough with the cars. But did have a blast at Gingerman with this car!
Did a hot and a cold leakdown test and just cant bring myself to tearing the motor down just yet. Plus I really really need to remodel my bathroom in my basement. So I will fix my helicoil in my head thats been giving me a hard time since I bought the car, gets some modern cv joints on the shift linkage, replace the one ball-joint that holds the shift linkage rod in place (which requires me removing the fuel cell), put in a up-rated cam in (and required rocker arm conformity), and finally get the rear diffuser to be even with the bottom of the car. right now the car looks like a banana.
SO... How does one acquire this up-rated pinto cam? What are your thoughts on a full vinyl shower?
Thanks for all the help guys. :D
Call an engine builder, better yet, send them the head so the geometry will be spot on.
Hated the vinyl shower, stained easily and wasn't the easiest thing to keep clean.
Tons of info on cam geometry in here.
http://ceb.ac.in/knowledge-center/E-...d%20Vizard.pdf
Gary
DittoQuote:
Originally Posted by Fred Michael
I installed my new cam last night. Fairly easy, thanks to some good instructions from Sandy and Erik @ QuickSilveRaceEngines.
I warmed up the engine first for about a minute. Because it had been sitting, i wanted all the galleries full of oil, so the next time i started her i wouldn't be dry cranking too long.
Set the motor to TDC
Confirmed how the cam sprocket was situated.
Marked the Jackshaft sprocket postion to its seal housing. (to insure distributor doesn't move)
Removed the belt.
Loosened all the adjusters.
Removed the followers. (sometimes depressing the valve a bit to get clearance)
Removed the cam pully bolt.
Removed the cam pully.
Removed the cam retainer from the rear tower.
Slid the cam out.
Moved the key from the old cam to the new cam.
Using Comp Cam's cam and lifter assembly lube. I greased the cam bearings and cam journals.
Slid the new cam in.
Lubed all the cam lobes.
Installed the cam pully and shield. (35 ft. lb blue locktite)
You can hold the cam firmly with a wrench on the "flats" between lobe 6 and 7.
Installed the cam retainer plate. (blue locktite)
Installed the new posts for the intake adjusters. (see post above) Making sure the holes they go into were not puddled full of oil.
It is easier to adjust the valves at this stage, when you don't have to spin the whole motor.
Adjusted the valves using the QS cold adjustment settings.
Intakes 1,2,3 = .010
Intake 4 = .009
Exhaust 1 = .013
Exhaust 2,3,4 = .012
Lubed all the cam lobes and followers one more time.
Spun the cam to where it should be at TDC.
Installed the belt and set tensioner.
Checked TDC, jackshaft, and cam pully position one more time.
Installed valve cover.
Fired her up. Being sure to always keep the revs above 2000 - 2500. (as per QS)
Ran her up to about 180 F.
Rechecked the valves. Intakes = .008 Exhausts = .010
Cranked her up again, just to incite the neighbors, their dogs, the squirrels in the trees, and the local Audabon Society. :)
Thanks again Mr Frog! Waiting on Q/S to hear back on what they can do for me.
BAT in Sarasota, FL has the updated camshafts. No exchange.
I agree that it tends to stain, but is not a big problem unless your water has a high iron content. I say keep the costs down and run more races!
Before
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ha...A=w229-h304-no
During
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/l7...Q=w720-h540-no
Home made vanity (bathroom in a basement that has a nautical themed bar through out with brass boating equipment and what nots)
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/AO...A=w405-h540-no
Done except the shower walls. Need to finish installing the soda gun before I put up the walls. Its right behind the shower so its easier to get at and run all the syrup and water lines. In the picture you cannot see that the lights are the caged type like you would see on boats. The same goes for the lights in the stairway. Just carried the theme into the bathroom.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/v0...A=w405-h540-no
I received the cam and rockers in November but have been focusing on the remodel. I will post up pics and updates about that and the new shifter linkage when I get that back too.
wunder bar done. Next is finishing the shower and then back to reynard related posts.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/vT...A=w405-h540-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/8o...w=w405-h540-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/o2...A=w720-h540-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/XR...g=w720-h540-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/79...Q=w720-h540-no
Priorities, priorities...
Step one.
I warmed up the engine first for about a minute. Because it had been sitting, i wanted all the galleries full of oil, so the next time i started her i wouldn't be dry cranking too long.
Fail. It has been months since it has run. I am hoping the cam break in lube will suffice.
Step two.
Set the motor to TDC
Confirmed how the cam sprocket was situated.
Marked the Jackshaft sprocket postion to its seal housing. (to insure distributor doesn't move)
Removed the belt.
Check.
Step three.
Loosened all the adjusters.
Removed the followers. (sometimes depressing the valve a bit to get clearance)
Removed the cam pully bolt.
Removed the cam pully.
Removed the cam retainer from the rear tower.
Slid the cam out.
First problem. One of the "ball studs" is different than the other 7. I cannot adjust it back enough to get the rocker out. I had to move the cam over to get it to come out. Also all 8 look pretty battered. I will order some new ones. Any recommendations?
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/fT...v=w872-h654-no
And upon removal of the cam I noticed that I do not have a advanced degree cam key. Should I pick up the 2* one from Pegasus? Whats involved to tune that into the motor?
Old timers like DaveW used to change cam keys for different tracks.
Not me. I just ran straight. The knowledge to alter keys is above my pay grade.
OBTW, Adjustable cam timing gears are now legal. If you wanted to play with different settings.
PM DaveW.
Quicksilver has the studs, as does Summit (i think).
You can get the followers out by pushing down on the valve, Just saying.
Isn't the thought to retard cam timing on higher speed tracks?
Thanks PF. I forgot about pushing down on the valve. It looks like I will just replace two ball studs after careful inspection. However I found that the mid tower bearing is in horrid shape. Also the cam that came with the car is too. So I will pick up the bearing and the ball studs from Pegasus. 2* key I guess makes no sense if a adjustable cam gear is legal now. Maybe next time around I take the motor apart. For now I need to figure out how to get more income. Perhaps some sort of Nigerian lottery scheme...
The general knowledge is that retarding cam timing increases the OA HP under the curve, given head porting, etc., that will support it. However to get that you have to shift above 7000 RPM, shortening the life of the rings, bores, etc., assuming one is using the original rods and pistons.Quote:
Originally Posted by HayesCages
During the season I'd run a couple of degrees advanced to get more torque and not have to rev so high. With the advanced cam timing, I'd shift around 6500. At the runoffs, I'd run whatever cam timing QS said gave the best OA HP, usually a bit retarded.
With the new longer rods, etc., I'd guess that that longevity penalty with higher RPM's is no longer as severe as it used to be and that the HP gains at high revs is now greater.
Step four.
Buy a cam bearing tool. Brace towers with a 2X4 between each other, and pound out old and install new. My middle one had some really weird wear patterns in it. I thought maybe something was deformed in the tower. But with the bearing out I could see and feel the tower was fine. So I pounded out all three and replaced with new. Anyone want a slightly used cam bearing tool at a great discount?
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/v3...T=w720-h540-no
Step five.
Moved the key from the old cam to the new cam.
Using Comp Cam's cam and lifter assembly lube. I greased the cam bearings and cam journals.
Slid the new cam in.
Lubed all the cam lobes.
Installed the cam pully and shield. (35 ft. lb blue locktite)
You can hold the cam firmly with a wrench on the "flats" between lobe 6 and 7.
Installed the cam retainer plate. (blue locktite)
Installed the new posts for the intake adjusters. (see post above) Making sure the holes they go into were not puddled full of oil.
It is easier to adjust the valves at this stage, when you don't have to spin the whole motor.
Adjusted the valves using the QS cold adjustment settings.
Intakes 1,2,3 = .010
Intake 4 = .009
Exhaust 1 = .013
Exhaust 2,3,4 = .012
Lubed all the cam lobes and followers one more time.
Spun the cam to where it should be at TDC.
Installed the belt and set tensioner.
Checked TDC, jackshaft, and cam pully position one more time.
Installed valve cover.
Check. Turns out it did have a offset key. However it was put in to retard. That would make sense since this car was set up to win. Winning by shifting just past 7000 and making the most hp, but sacrificing engine life. Ahh... it pays to play. Not me, I set it up to advance so I can get a bit more before 7000. I will buy a adjustable wheel from a place down in Florida for about $140, But I think I will next winter when I go to the long rods and lightened flywheel.
Now that I am done with that (thanks again Mr Frog) I will need a tachometer that works. And by that I mean all the way through the race. Not just the first half, or half the day, or when I start the car it dose not auto corrects incorrectly.
Side note; I dont think the place has even started on my shifter linkage:(
Got my shifter linkage back 1/2 done two weeks ago. Dropped it off at fabricator shop Wednesday before last weekends race to get finished. I was told they are behind a few weeks. I might miss the second race of the year too. :(
Did you just use the cam bearing tools that are available everywhere? The seal driver type?
Smacking them with a hammer kinda scared me, I was curious how well that would actually work, especially with the wimpy cam towers. I made a few bushings to fit on a threaded rod and press them in/out.
Much appreciate you posing pics/updates.....as an amateur its nice to see some of the trials/tribulations I am also going thru!
Jim
Hello, yes I was very scared to pound on these older than me towers too. Especially two looong races ago another Reynard had his rear tower let go on him half way through the race (allowing me to take the win;)). But I talked to QS and they told me the old timers do that all day everyday at their shop. And if I wanted to have some one hold a heavy object behind the tower as I was hitting it it would not hurt. So since I have no helper I just cut two 2X4s to the perfect length and wedged them in between the towers. The first blows where pretty hard to get the bearing going, but as soon as it started to move they slid out fairly easy.Quote:
Originally Posted by Captain
As far as a makeshift press I could not find one pre made. Anything I would make and try would not be the exact/correct size (dont have access to a mill), or would not press evenly or centered correctly.
So I heeded the advise of the elders here and replaced them with the cam bearing tool. And boy am I glad. They where in pretty bad shape.
Good luck! And if you want to buy that tool on the cheap...
Remember step two? I did. Thank you Mr. PF! It slipped twice while I was priming the motor. Third time it stayed put and I knew it was ready to start. AND HOW. just in the stand with the motor idling the shift points are sharp and easy to get in and out of. Can not wait to get on with the racing...
Thanks again Mr. Frog.
Wow, car ran great! It is very neat to know your actual RPM. No more guessing where the gears are now too. Diving down on the inside I can think about what I am doing instead of hoping I do not make a fool of my self looking for the gear and screwing the overtake up.
But I noticed the increase in power from like 6.6K to 7K. The motor really livens up. I think I never used that high of rev before (since the tac never really worked), so I never went that fast before. I took 2.1 second off my fastest lap at Blackhawk Farms this weekend. Stayed on the lead lap with the Atlantic cars too! Thanks to Primus Racing Parts for having my exact tac to make it a quick install/transfer.
New problem is when I grabbed my wheels from the basement I noticed that the mags are corroding through the paint. How do I prevent this from getting worse? Any mag dressing I should have used before painting?
Where are the wheels corroding? Bead seat by chance?
No matter what I do mine corrode there. Every time I change tires wire brush the corrosion off and hit with automotive primer.
They corrode NOWHERE else. So I am at a loss as to what do as well.
MY theory is that the soapy water I use to allow the beads to seat at a reasonable pressure ( one that I am not too scared that the tire will explode in my face) gets trapped and that causes the corrosion.
So I would also like to hear what those who are smarter than I am have to say.
In the front. All over the front. I suspect its from this Midwestern tropical climate we have had this year. My basement has been pretty humid. Not helping the situation my dehumidifier has conked out on me. I just cant believe the mag would do this through such thick paint.
My guess is to sand blast them and paint again... and again... Or keep them in the garage next time in sealed bags or something. I thought I was being smart by cleaning, waxing, and storing them inside for the winter. Never new this was a problem. I wonder what new wheels cost:confused:
you do not want to know how much new new wheels cost.....
Unless you get rid of all of the inter-granular corrosion, mag will just keep corroding, even if coated with paint.
The best thing to do is have them Dow treated before painting.
My experience is that spraying them lightly and reasonably often with WD40 works just fine. Also works on gearbox cases, adapters, uprights to keep them looking fresh and uncorroded. Also cheap! Spent much time polishing the wheels, then going to Laguna and behold the next morning with the fog and instant dull!
Hello, hey gents I noticed on some of the cars of my gen I found that some had a nice "bar stool" looking head rest. Where would I find one of those?
And looking for third and fourth gear to get my self up to Road America, so let me know if you have any laying around or know someone who does. My last race I never ground a gear once! So I would pay to rent or buy let me know.
Also in the mean time I am putting on my Ultra Averill pods, and nose/wing kit on. Will post some pics in a bit.
Thanks!
I have a new nose and side pods to fit to my Reynard as well. Would like to hear how you are fitting your new parts to your chassis. I had to significantly modify the last nose to fit properly. I have never tried to fit new side pods. Need some advise on how to do it.Quote:
Originally Posted by xmazdatracy