I've had this malady with my 90 Reynard before with the same symptoms you are describing, luckily I took it right apart. My symptom was the clutch wouldn't disengage fully so I was unable to get the selection of any gears without an ugly sound.
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I've had this malady with my 90 Reynard before with the same symptoms you are describing, luckily I took it right apart. My symptom was the clutch wouldn't disengage fully so I was unable to get the selection of any gears without an ugly sound.
Congrats to hdsporty for his first race back and finishing first place! :checkered:
Also thanks for the brake pads!!!!!
Thank you and you're welcome. Now let's race together on 7/2 !Quote:
Originally Posted by xmazdatracy
Well, the first time out with the car was good. Nothing leaked, and nothing broke that I had not broke already. I spent some $$$ on some fiberglass resin (again) and had to repair a side pod that tore as I was backing the car out of the trailer at night. Also fixed the diffuser that was rubbing the ground since it was falling off the car as I was driving (I broke it during the winter). But that is no biggie. I am almost done with those two fixes already.
However I still felt unsafe to race. I was black flagged because of my helmet height. So I had to modify my seat at the track, and that left me in a bad position. I now have some decent bruises from being smashed in there. That and I am not so sure of how the best way to get into second gear from third. Every other gear change is perfect, it just this third to second I have to wait until some very low rpms to get it in with out any jolt. I want to go around the corners much faster. Will I have to blip the engine up to engage the second gear dogs? If so... How? I have never heel-toed before. The last car I would just let the clutch out slowly, and never had a problem.
Also I must have tyrannosaurus rex arms. Because to get me that low I have to sit back farther. But then I cant reach third gear or hardly grab the steering wheel. So I crunched down and pinned my knees on the dash board (some of my bruises) then I was able to be under the roll hoop and reach the steering wheel. Not exactly a comfortable position. Is there a way to move the controls back? The pedals are all the way up front too.
Here is a crappy vid of the HPDE day. This car does not video to well. I will try another type of mount and some more bland angles next time. I just don't think it will turn out as cool as the older videos I have made.
http://youtu.be/UNL3GyEJwnY
I can't see the video on this network. (No Youtube access) Can I assume that vibration is the major issue?
I found less vibration from a GoPro suction cup mount on the body near the roll bar, plus a 3/4" nylon strap tightly pulling the camera body towards the roll bar. I fastened the nylon strap (an old snowboard leash) first and then positioned the suction cup so the strap was preloaded. That really cut down on the vibration at sub 90 mph speeds. Here's an example: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tinLcl0wIzo
Depending on how your front roll hoop is designed, it may be easy enough to have an extension welded onto this. I have two Swifts and this mod has been done to both of them. The Swift is made with square tubing on the top of front roll hoop, so a trapezoid shaped piece is installed that makes this point approx 2 inches higher. It presents no problem at all for mounting the body work. If you are barely failing the 'broom test', this may be a simple option that will essentially raise the broom for you.
Are you leaned back enough in your seat? Most formula cars recline you pretty far. When I poured my Reynard seat I had my ass as far forward as it would go and reclined as far as I could and still reach the steering wheel. It sounds like you may have been too upright in the car, or you're like 6'7".
Gotta blip on the downshifts. You don't have to heel-toe, but you do have to get the load off the dogs to disengage each gear which means a touch of throttle. You should do it for each downshift.
Other people may have different views or opinons than mine, but I will comment on a couple things
Diffuser: At the moment I have between 30 and 40 sessions on my FC and I haven't bothered with mounting the diffuser. When learning the limits of a car, you are surely going to loose grip and spin the car out at some point. There is a tendency for a formula car to turn around backwards on you and travel in a rearward motion until you skid to a stop. If you have gone off in area that isn't as smooth as a golf course the diffuser is probably going to sustain some damage. I am saving myself the potential headache of fixing this thing. At some point, I will put the diffuser on and that will change the characteristics of the car some. It might even make it necessary to set the car up a little different. There is a valid point to learn the handling of the car with the diffuser. But, I am happy to trade off a little speed for not having to bother with the thing until I am better at handling the car.
Clutchless shifting: this is the ticket to driving the car smoother and faster. I think most people that are driving H-pattern dog ring boxes will tell you that they only use the clutch to get the car rolling out of the pit and grid. I am not sure how the steering is set up in the Reynard, but hopefully your rack and steering shaft are not in a place that affects getting your left foot to the brake. The reason you want to be able to clutchless shift, is so you can free up your left foot to run the brake. Yes, you will have learn the art of 'rev matching' to become proficient at this. Lift off throttle to shift up, and increase throttle (while in neutral) to match the revs going down in gears. You may be able to jam the thing into a lower gear without matching revs, but you will most probably experience one of two things 1) broken dogs or teeth on your gears 2) upset the rear of the car and spin out. This takes some time and practice to figure out, but is a very satisfying feeling when rounding a corner, braking and going down a gear to have power when coming out of corner.
Getting comfortable in the car: I will argue that this is one of the most important pieces of setting up the car! If you are uncomfortable, or you are getting injured (bruises) with every outing... how can that be safe? How can that be fun? If you need to get deeper in the car for your arms to be at the right distance from gear selector and steering, you may need to move the throttle and master cylinders further forward. I had to move the pedals 1.5" forward on one car and I can't even begin to tell you the difference that made. Being comfortable and having the car set up to fit your body's geometry will increase safety, and enjoyment.
When you are at the track don't focus on trying to be the guy at the front of the pack right now. Gain comfort in the car, and learn to operate the motor and the gear box correctly. Learn the limits of grip on the car. If other cars are passing you... who cares!! Learn to handle your machine, run 'your' race and speed will simply start becoming a by product of these things.
First and foremost you have to get comfortable. Everything is adjustable, it is just a matter of how to best do so starting with the seating position. Since in talking to you the problem appears to be that you were sitting too high relative to the roll hoop, the first place to start is with how much of your foam seat is under your butt. With my seat there is almost no foam in that area, I'm virtually sitting on the floor which is not unusual in these cars. Once you have a comfortable legal seating position the pedals (turn the actual pedal in or out or adjust with the master cylinder shaft), steering wheel ( do you have a shaft within a shaft? if so it is only a matter of changing holes for the cross bolt or drilling a new one ) and shifter (almost all have a threaded area that can be turned in or out) can be adjusted to you. Once you are comfortable in a static position, now you can look at all the 'hard" things you are likely to bump up against while at speed and try to lightly pad them. As you've already found, a day in the car will show you anywhere you missed! I had to pad several areas of my car after that first driver's school! Ever notice how many formula car guys wear knee pads? I have some that I turned out not to need as I was able to pad that area in my car, you're welcome to them if needed. If you would like I would be glad to come over and help you with the adjustments. Sometimes it is much easier to get everything adjusted to you when you can just stay in the car and have a person outside the car make adjustments to your position rather than the in and out trial and error method.
As for shifting, the Hewland will never act like a box with syncros. While you want to get as smooth as possible, it is very easy to over worry/over think this aspect of these cars. With seat time in a comfortable position you will get the hang of it and figure out what works best for you. It will become second nature to you, I promise.
Have you removed the 'extra' cross bar brace under the dash board to make more room for your knees? That is almost a requirement on the Reynard these days.
Sorry guys no internet at home and way to busy at work to catch up. Will catch back up when internet comes back.
Brought to to you via toilet phone at work. Lol.
tmi!Quote:
Originally Posted by xmazdatracy
Extra?Quote:
Originally Posted by rickb99
Great tips guys. Thank you all very much. I will have to fit myself into the car much better. I admit I spent much more time on the clutch instead of the fitment of the cockpit. It looks like I will have to pour a second seat after I get myself in there and able to work the controls better. But I will need more padding on stuff as I have lost the 25lbs I was going for since I bought the car. What do you guys think... Double sided sticky tape on some foam?
Thanks to CGCOffroad, I had no idea how to "blip" the throttle. I am now practicing left foot braking on my street car. lol. Thats a hard one to get used too. I want to get into second gear earlier so I can cruse around the corners at a faster pace. I was not grinding the gears. It just would grab second, and give the car a bad jolt. I was afraid I would spin or break a drive shaft or two. So I would wait till the car was slow enough to not have that happen. I have yet to 4 wheel push the car yet. However I did push the car hard enough to have the front end push a bit, and also have the back step out some. All I can say is this car seems very predictable, and as soon as I get myself "connected" to it I know I will feel comfortable with what it can do. Wings are new to me too. I will have to learn to lean on them. The diffuser I am not to worried about. Its not pretty now, and I can repair fiberglass easy peasy. It much more fun than repairing a quarter panel.
I am using a gopro with a suction cup mount. Its just that the body is flexible and moves around a bunch. Im sure a strap would help stabilize it. That and the motor revs shake the camera inside the case and thats all you can hear. Camera rattle. With the muffler there is not much to hear anyway. I normally "mix" the song and the track noise. HDS's reynard has a straight pipe on it and its still pretty quiet. So I am not sure what I would pick up with the camera mic anyway. meh... time will tell.
For around the frame I use pipe insulation held in place by double sided carpet tape and wire ties.
To the future owner of the car. Yes the steering wheel (via the nut n bolt on the steering shaft) is adjustable with three little hole settings. And the shifter is adjustable via the threaded rod it sticks out on. I am sure you will have to put it back to normal as I must have T-rex arms. However I sit way WAY more inside the cockpit now . I am much happier to have my legs not smashed against the dashboard and not be squashed between the roll bar braces.
Time to pour another seat. Also I will be doing another HPDE day and then my first race of the year. Hope to see you guys out there again. It was very nice to meet you people and even more so to sponge hardware, parts, and ideas off you guys. Thanks again!
Very happy to hear you were able to adjust the car to fit! Look forward to seeing you in a couple of weeks.
Hard as I could, could not find the USB port on the carburetor :thumbsdown:. So I am off to the interwebs to find a solution to my carburetor dumping large amounts of fuel when engine is off and the gas pedal is applied. Also wanting to check in here to see if anyone of you guys might have had that same problem and what did you do to fix it???? Thanks again to HD for some very nice set of tires!!! I am sure to use the rest of the rubber on them. Of course right after I cord the set I have now. :meatball:
FLOODING (OVERFLOWING) Fuel overflowing from the carburetor may be caused by a number of issues:
(1) Float/fuel valve incorrectly adjusted
(2) Defective fuel valve
(3) Defective float
(4) Excessive fuel pressure
(A) incorrect or defective fuel pump
(B) clogged or missing tank vent
(5) Cracked housing
Discussing in order:
(1) Make certain that you have the float adjusted to the manufacturer’s original specifications, and make sure you know HOW the manufacturer measured the adjustment. Some manufacturers specify the distance from the float to the casting without the gasket, some with the gasket, some the distance to the fuel level in the bowl at a specified pressure, and Rochester was probably the most creative, often measuring to a “dimple” on the float itself or the float seam. If you buy an aftermarket rebuilding kit, NEVER rely on the generic specification sheets which come in the kits. Check your factory shop manual or the carburetor manufacturer’s manual.
(2) If the fuel valve is defective, replace it.
(3) If the float is brass, check this link: Brassfloats , if a material other than brass, and there is any doubt, replace the float.
(4) A fuel pressure gauge placed right at the carburetor will confirm/deny the presence of too much pressure. However, one should consider the clogged or missing vent. The fuel tank MUST be vented, or no fuel can exit the tank. Many older vehicles were vented through the gasoline cap. Vented caps were obsoleted because of smog emissions regulations. If the tank vent is clogged or missing, normal ambient temperature change will create either a positive pressure or negative pressure (vacuum) on the tank. Some tanks are located close to the exhaust. As the engine warms the hot exhaust heats the fuel in the tank, and can create excessive pressure in the tank.
(5) Cracked carburetor housings are quite rare; in more than 50 years, I have only seen a hand-full, but the issue CAN exist, ESPECIALLY if the “mechanic” feels the necessity of using some form of Teflon (either tape or paste) on a tapered fuel fitting. Teflon is a fabulous lubricant, and will allow anyone to apply excessive torque to the fitting threads and crack the casting.
FUEL LEAK BY THROTTLE SHAFT(S) A common complaint today is fuel dripping out of the throttle body by the throttle shaft AFTER the engine is switched off. While a number of issues may cause this problem, by far the most common issue is the volatility of modern fuel. Mechanical fuel pumps have a check valve which prevents fuel from moving back to the fuel tank. The problem is as follows:
(1) After the engine is switched off, heat from the engine heats the fuel in the fuel line.
(2) The expanding fuel (increased volatility) creates pressure in the fuel line from the pump to the carburetor.
(3) The check valve prevents the fuel backing up through the fuel pump.
(4) The pressure increases to a point the float/fuel valve combination in the carburetor cannot withstand the pressure.
(5) An amount of fuel (usually from a teaspoon to a couple of tablespoons) flows into the fuel bowl of the carburetor.
(6) This raises the fuel level in the bowl above the main discharge nozzle(s).
(7) Fuel flows through the main discharge nozzle(s) and drips onto the throttle plate(s) which is/are closed, and exits out beside the throttle shaft(s) dripping onto the intake.
Possible solutions:
(1) IF POSSIBLE, AVOID ETHANOL LACED FUEL! Sometimes you can buy real gasoline at a marina
(2) Buy the lowest octane name-brand fuel that does not ping or detonate in your engine (the higher grades often have more ethanol)
(3) Install a “vapor return line” (take a look at return lines used on many factory air-conditioned cars)
(4) Learn to live with the issue.
Yes there were more than 2 cars, 5 in class
NICE !! Any shots of the cars at the track?
Was thinking of this thread the other day and wondering how the car was doing
I used to have a shirt that said:Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveG
Your village called
Their idiot is missing
Car issues are quite often very hard to find.
I spent many weekends in FF and FC trying to "figure out" carb problems.
Best advice I ever got: Send the carb to Sandy at Quicksilver. http://quicksilverraceengines.com/
I have done that twice and when I got the car back from Sandy, car ran great and I never had a carb problem ever gain.
Just sharing. Track time is very valuable. Use it for driving. Let the experts fix your carb.
Aaron
Ok, in this day and age of everyone getting offended take my comments with a grain of salt. I have 5 seconds to loose to get near the track record. And 2.5 to catch the FA that was whizzing around us. It is possible to be quicker than the MC powered FA. Just embarrassing/aggravating/frustrating at the moment.
That said, please enjoy my crappy vid (music might offend older ears).
http://youtu.be/N2gcHiNjay4
Congrats again on the win and for catching my mistake on camera! It will be very tough to catch that Stohr considering the HP advantage of his Hayabusa.
Yes, I was rather shocked to see him basically blow by that Stohr early on. We raced a 90 Reynard against an almost identical Red Stohr in pure D/SR trim out here on the Seattle area for over two years. Jeff could beat him if everything was just perfect and the D/SR wasn't pushing too hard plus he was darn tough to pass if he was in front.Quote:
Originally Posted by hdsporty1988
I'm pretty much sitting here trying to figure out why that 90 seems to have such good straight line speed compared to the cars he's running against.
Actually there was another Black Stohr open wheel car running in the FA group that he was referring to driven by the son of the red Stohr that was running in DSR. This was a Midwestern Council of Sports Car Clubs race so some of the SCCA classes get combined for the purposes of this organization. FA includes the normal SCCA Atlantics plus FB and Formula Mazda plus some others. The Red Stohr was having some issues.Quote:
Originally Posted by rickb99
Is that photo a mirror image? Or are those left hand threads?Quote:
Originally Posted by xmazdatracy
Because of either of those is true (but not both!), you've got your safety wire done backwards. :)
I noticed that too. ill eventually work my way through the car and get everything sorted out. If I haven't touched it it will break. That's the way it has been so far with the few times I have been out w the car.
Great drive and take care of the spooge!!!!
Saw this photo posted by cjahn with some for sale items. Do you have room to move the pedals forward to get down in the car?
HDSPORTY is making a strong point.
Having been on my head a few times... you really need to get down. It can be done. I've seen 6'2" guys fit with clearance in Reynards.
If you had been out in the pro series with Rand and I, you would have been black flagged.
I have been looking into it. I might be able to get a couple of inches out of the pedals, but then I think I might need to make something to get the lap belt forward. Last time I sat very low like that the belt was over my stomach. I didn't think that was right. If it was like a regular sedan 6 point belt I would just shrink the submarine part and call it a day. However with the formula style its not that easy. Or is it?
In a Formula car the sub belts are used keep the lap belt at the waist due to the semi reclining position.
to float or not to float?
Looking to get the correct size rotor for the front and was wondering about the benefits/drawbacks of going with a floating rotor.
Any tell tails, storys, direct experience, or hearsay would be appreciated.
Actually, they are called anti-submarine/crutch straps and are there to keep you from sliding forward. You can still have the lap belt improperly placed even if the sub straps hold it in position. There are several diagrams all over the interweb showing how the belts should be positioned. No excuses for not doing this properly.Quote:
Originally Posted by hdsporty1988
"Crutch straps are designed to stop driver submarining through the harness in high ‘g’ decelerations."
From the Willans website.
I have six point belts in my 90 Reynard. Very easy to adjust. Very important to keep you in the correct position under high G's. Be sure your lap belt comes across your pelvis and never rides above the crest and on your stomach. The pelvis can carry loads up to 5,000#, while your belly area can only withstand an 800# load before serious injury is given to your internals.Quote:
Originally Posted by xmazdatracy
I'm adding a higher front roll hoop to mine this off season. The standard front roll hoop is lower than the top of my steering wheel.
I have SFI roll bar padding everywhere my bones can contact the bars. Makes for a tight fit. However, I prefer bruises to broken bones in a hard crash....
The car looks really strong coming out of the corners. She's making good torque and horsepower.
Not a ton. Biggest advantage is the reduction in weight by going with an aluminum hat. First time I ran cross drilled rotors it was quiet an experience. They make noise......a lot of it.......high pitched and it took a few laps to adjust to it.Quote:
Originally Posted by xmazdatracy
Sorry, last class was unlimited. Is it 1200# with or with out fuel (weighed after or before race)?:confused:
1200 at impound after race.
OK great! I guess I need to stop my diet then.
However, what is more important? The chassis being level or the corner weights? I spent like 15 min getting the chassis level and then 2hrs chasing 15lbs around the corners. Never getting them any closer.
Now the chassis is ok, but the shock perches are way different from side to side. (also the car has 4 different rocker arms if that matters).
I hated to change anything but I feel that the one spring perch was not tight and that corner of the car was almost on the ground, and I have had it up to here with repairing that side of the diffuser.
You need to go back to square 1! It appears you are working with a bitsa car and the parts may be suspect.
Trying to do this with different rockers is a fool's errand. Get the right parts (at least the same rockers left-to-right) and start over. Check your springs that they are the same rates/lengths. Make sure the shocks are not stuck. Run them to full soft on bump and rebound. Make sure the suspension points are not binding or sticking. Make sure the rockers are at the same angle, side-to-side.
Set the ride heights. Then check corner weights. Leave the fronts alone and adjust weights by changing the rear spring perches. It is more critical to have even weights on the fronts, allowing for variation on the rear.
You have to start with a valid platform. If one spring perch is loose and the car is almost on the ground then you probably have a spring that is too short. Get some spacers or the proper length spring.
On these older cars where things might be a bit tweaked...
You did disconnect the ARBs before you started the setup.... right?
Aim for the front two weights to be close and ignore the rears for now.
Get the front ride height right.
Then put 5/8 to 3/4" of rake in it.
Are you racing on a track where the high G corners are mostly to the right, and the left side of the diffuser is wearing out?
Probably need to go up on either ride height or stronger rear springs.
Would help to know if the front edge of the diffuser or rear edge is what is hitting.
Just an FYI, there are a pair of rear rockers on ebay for $500 which is a good price if you nee them http://www.ebay.com/itm/REYNARD-FORM...NZWw0Q&vxp=mtr
Like thisQuote:
Originally Posted by xmazdatracy
Quote:
Originally Posted by Purple Frog
I can make either the rears match or the fronts match but not both at the same time. I will go back at it and make the fronts the same then and the rears will be off around 20lbs. If that is ok? Over the winter I will drop off the car at Linstrand. Till then I am going to keep what I have and maybe measure the rockers before I buy anything.
If i could get the fronts even, 20 lbs across the rear would not be a deal breaker.
If the course has a lot of serious right turns, I might even add about 5 lb bias to the right front.
Watching your video you don't seem to be just wanking around the course.
So... i think the car is rolling over on you. Probably too softly sprung.
I base line Reynards with about 750# in the front, and 650# in the rear. (Yes, i have gone more extreme.)
Averill sold a variety of front ARB choices. I went stiff.
Also, could the diffuser attachment be flexing under force? At 100mph that sucker is putting well over 100lbs of downforce on the area of the diffuser where the "kickup begins (up near the front of the diffuser).
You have progressed so far in this project. Are you sure you want to turn it over to a prep shop? If you stick to it, and keep learning, you will gain knowledge that will last a lifetime, no matter what class you progress to. There is a lot of joy in fixing the problem yourself, then driving the sucker around to a checker flag knowing you fixed it.
If you go the prep shop route. The learning trail stops. As always... YMMV
OBTW, my prediction. You'll progress in the Reynard, get addicted to the thrill. Reach the limits of the Reynard and buy a more modern chassis within 3 years. What you learn now about setups now will be invaluable when you move up.
FYI My cars (DB-1 and DB-3) use a similar rocker type suspension that your Reynard does. Finding suspension parts when you bend something can be a challenge. Notice I said "when" not "if" you bend something!! I am not gonna say the A-Arms are easy to find, but they can be located easier than rockers can. If these rockers on eBay are the right part for your car, you should get them. Just as a cost comparison, I was lucky and found a rocker for each corner of my car a year or so ago. The purchase price with shipping was right around $1600. So, figure $400 per rocker.
I am gonna assume the Reynard rocker mounts similar to how the Swift does. Where the rocker connects to the sheer plates, there is a bearing on each side of rocker and a shaft through the center. These bearings are wear items. Any time the rocker is off my car, and has been in service for over a year, that bearing gets replaced. I have had these fail at the track. The car is unusable if one of these bearings has failed. So, replace them regularly, and keep a spare with you.
When I looked at this car in MI the rear rockers were not the same. They have different motion ratios. You need to have the car symmetric to start with unless you're going circle track racing. I don't remember the front, but you should start by measuring them all.Quote:
Originally Posted by xmazdatracy
Pat Prince probably has all the Reynard rocker jigs. He sure did enough for me. :)
I think i sold Bob Pagel in Appleton WI, a complete spare set in 2014....