Printable View
Is anyone using Gates PowerGrip SB heat-shrinkable hose clamps? They came out many years ago and I thought the idea was good. Seems like little to no use in the racing community. Thoughts?
Craig
Link to product:
Gates PowerGrip SB Heat-Shrinkable Hose Clamps | Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies
Seems like the downside would be the onetime use...
If it's a mostly permanent clamp such as using a joiner for 2 pieces of silicone hose, seems like a good solution. For something I expect to take apart, no way. The fact that the Gates 91215 Heavy-Duty PowerGrip SB Clamp Removal Tool sells for more than $50 implies they're not easy to remove.
Of course YMMV.
Steve
In a previous life I specified the use of Gates shrink clamps on class 8 trucks and I asked Gates about using them on my race car and they were quite clear that they didn't approve their use in motorsports.
The key advantage is they reduce or eliminate cold water leaks. When the system gets hot the typical metal clamp stretches as the system expands. When the system cools and contracts the metal clamps don't contract and lose their clamping strength, allowing leaks when the trucks sits. The Gates clamps actually contract more as they get hotter and don't lose their strength as they cool down.
Mike,Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike B
Are you saying that we shouldn't use the shrink clamps on our race cars?
Steve
I used these to clean up my fabricated silicone hoses and they have worked great for 2 seasons now. Used them to eliminate 2 worm drive clamps from each coupling. Each hose had 2 couplings so this eliminated 8 worm drive clamps. The ends obviously still use the worm drive clamps.
I'm saying that Gates told me we shouldn't use them on our race cars. Maybe it was liability thing. I just don't think there is a problem with worm drive clamps on race cars that the Gates clamps would solve.Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveG
On couplings that must not leak because they can't be accessed (think the dry sump hoses under the pan) I use regular old spring clamps. Manufacturers came up with those to solve the worm drive clamp problem described above.
They are a PITA to use in some cases, especially if the access is tight and you don't have the special tool to compress them. But if you have the room, water pump pliers work just fine.
I've used them for over 20 years on the dry sump and not.a.single.drip.
I had a vintage FF come in for some work and a race prep a few years ago with those Gates shrink clamp deals on every hose connection.
I didn't like the idea and proceed to remove them so i could install good quality worm drive clamps.
I had a hell of a time getting them cut off without destroying the hoses.
Soldering gun works pretty well.Quote:
Originally Posted by stonebridge20
I was not a fan of spring clamps until I started working with street cars with plastic radiators. The problem is they need to be properly sized for the application. The ones for my 2014 Jeep were from $10 - $20 each and the Dorman ones did not have the right range.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick Kirchner
Note - the lower radiator ones are subject to rusting through here in New England......
I see McMaster has them https://www.mcmaster.com/products/ho...ng+clamps+hose
Interesting that they say they are not reusable....
OETIKER clamps used to be very popular on dry sump with rubber hose - have most gone to AN lines?
ChrisZ
I just measured the OD of my lines, then went to my Nissan, found a similar OD, then went to the dealer and asked for the clamps that went with that line. I think they were a couple bucks each, and that's the last time I bought 'em.Quote:
Originally Posted by FVRacer21
Yeah, I think Oetikers died with rubber hose, and if you get the fancy green braided hose the crimps are proprietary. But same principal right? Something that will expand with heat and contract back to it's pre-stressed size.