Does it make any sense to convert a FC roller to FF? How difficult/expensive would it be? I see some really nice FC rollers for sale here on ApexSpeed, but I'm a beginner and don't feel that I could handle the additional performance. Thanks.
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Does it make any sense to convert a FC roller to FF? How difficult/expensive would it be? I see some really nice FC rollers for sale here on ApexSpeed, but I'm a beginner and don't feel that I could handle the additional performance. Thanks.
makes perfect sense. the wings & diffusre are always in need by the FC crowd when they bamg em up & can help fianace the purchase of an FF engine.
many believe FF is the best place to start as you learn mechanical grip, and there is plenty of adjustments to get used to before you add aero into the mix. as well you don't have the expense of those wings when you make a small mistake.
welcome to the crowd
Lots of folks doing that very thing right now. Seems like the Honda was the spark for that fire...
The performance is not a big issue, 115 hp vs 145HP. Wings vs no wings. Driving style needs to be a little differant. See what guys are running locally. No fun running alone. If fields are equal, if it were my $$$, I'd convert to FF. Sell some of the FC bits to help fund the conversion. Have lower running costs and a smaller spares package (Diffuser, wing, wing mount, etc).
I am converting an FC to FF, for all the reasons mentioned above. I used the money raised from selling wings and parts toward a new Honda engine. My hope and expectation is to have a fun, reliable car with very little attention needed to maintain the engine.
If you think you might want Honda power, that may affect which chassis and year you buy because some are easier to convert, especially if there is a kit available (Swift, VD, Piper, Citation).
Are the bolt patterns from the ear opf the block to the bell housing the same for a kent 1600 and Pinto 2000? That would make it very easy
YesQuote:
Originally Posted by Rondo
With the Db6 conversion the issues were the bodywork and carb ducting, 5.5" wheels that fit over usually bigger brakes, fuel pump, slave, input shaft length, top motor mount. Perhaps another I'm forgetting.
Is it advisable to soften the springs and shocks since you are no longer supporting aero loads with them? Or do you assume that the springs can be the same based on the chassis stiffness? The assumption being stiffer is better as long as the chassis is stiff enough?
Granted, I am making it more complex by moving to the Honda Fit motor, but much of the process is the same otherwise.
I am keeping a blog of my adventures: http://seanmaisey.blogspot.com
I try to update it nightly.
Sean
Is it advisable to soften the springs and shocks since you are no longer supporting aero loads with them? Or do you assume that the springs can be the same based on the chassis stiffness? The assumption being stiffer is better as long as the chassis is stiff enough?
Steve, you definitely will soften the springs when converting from FC to FF for the reasons you state and the shocks will be tuned differently. I think our Swift had 600 lb front and 800 lb rear springs on it when we got it as an FC and we dropped the rate down to around 350/500 as an FF.
Tom,
thanks. I was able to convince myself to go in either direction and just needed a prod into the right direction. Nice of you to share!
Steve
Interesting. I would not have guessed a 40% reduction would be needed, but that does seem to jive with the information I've read. My DB-3 (w/ heavy Pinto, wings and rocker arms) came with 425F & 600R. I've read many DB-1's run with about 40% less than what I have.
While I am not comfortable sharing detailed setup information given to me by others without asking them first, I can say that the advice I am getting for my conversion is considerably different than the setup that was on the car when I bought it in FC form.
Front Springs - were 1300# monsters with lots of droop. Recommended FF setup is much much less
Rear Springs - were 900# units with 0-10lbs preload. Recommended is in the 30-40% less range mentioned in this post...
Obviously with such drastic changes in aero load, static weight and spring rates, I anticipate shock valving changes as well.
As always there is more detail on my build blog.
Regards,
Sean
http://seanmaisey.blogspot.com
What wheel rate "range" is common these days for FC, F1000, and FF?
Thanks,
Dick
Keep in mind that just becuase your car came with a certain setup doesn't mean it was right for the car. I did a FC to FF conversion but now run stiffer front springs then came with the car. This was becuase the way the car came the rockers were such that the front end was in bind. I guess they kept putting lighter spring in it not realizing the springs were doing nothing.
I purchased ligher springs thinking "well no front wing I will have to go ligher". Those are now saved for rain only events.
Ed