1985 Reynard - SOLD

[t walgamuth]

Winter price reduction! I think the asking price was very reasonable but it is winter now and I'd love to sell it. I am reducing the asking price to $8000

Hi, My car is an 85 Reynard set up for autocross. It is in good running condition. I have had it for three years. Originally I had a co-driver but lately have not. Last year in the heat it was just a little too much work for an old man.

It was competitive with the local hot shoes who are nationally proven drivers. In my best outing I came within .006 of tying Nick Myers in his fully restored Van Dieman. With the right driver I believe it can win nationals. I am offering it for sale and will continue to run it this year to keep it in shape.

It is geared for about 85 mph top speed with the ratios recommended by Pet Calhoun and others here. I bought an integral first gear new, the other gears are mostly used but one of them may also be new as I could not find that ratio used. The gears were installed by Mark Lamm of Brownsburg In, a well respected racer and FF mechanic. (Mark owns the car that was driven to first last year at nationals by Brandon Lavendar).

1. Motor built by Marcovicci Wenz engineering. It was done before I owned the car. I have the dyno sheets from them...114 hp and 112 Ft Lb torque at 6400 RPM. It has about half the hours on it that it should be good for.
2. Aluminum head installed since I own it with new seals and replacing any valves or springs that did not meet specs.
3. New Paint on car. (very yellow with very orange wheels)
4. Panasport wheels with new Hoosier tires with three runs on them.
5. Ballistic battery and new booster battery.
6. New RR wheel bearing.
7. New lightened CV joints on RR, LR not installed.
8. Drilled rotors, fronts with aluminum hats.
9. Rebuilt shifter.
10. Nearly new Bosch Distributor and coil and plug wires.
11. Nearly new oil pressure gauge.
12. Includes various spares and body panels all parts that cannot reasonably be expected to fit other cars.
13. Rebuilt starter last summer.
14. Rebuilt carb last year.
15. Newer clutch disc, PP, and TO bearing. Turned flywheel and lightened to minimum permissible by rules.
16. New master cylinders.
17. Spare steering wheel.
18. spare upright.

I am asking $8000 for the car as listed above.

19. Trailer with a new hitch latching device and jackstand. $650
20. Iron head prepared by Marcivicci Wenz, no valves. $300.
21. Supertrapp muffler: $175.
22. Brand new rear inner hub. $175
23. Two used but good brake rotors $50
24. New in package exhaust wrap. $50.

It does come with the road racing log book and the factory assembly binder showing each and every part. I have a thick stack of receipts for parts and work done by the PO and myself.

I will be happy to post additional pics for interested parties.

Tom Walgamuth
765 490 0275 please don't text
twalgamuth@comcast.net

[t walgamuth]

There were a number of vexing problems that were subtle that I after a lot of searching fixed.

1. The crankcase ventilation. It was plumbed wrongly when I got it and it was pressurizing the crankcase and making it burp oil out the front seal. I fixed the venting problem and sealed the little crack it was coming out.
2. The RR wheel bearing kept coming loose. It was caused by one of the interfaces of the split hub was too large giving too much play in the bearing support and allowing the race halves to come adrift letting the wheel wobble. This was corrected by taking .035 off the large half of the split hub.
3. The starter was not dialed in correctly. After having it rebuilt twice and in and out about five times I finally have it dialed in correctly and it is working great.
4. A less vexing problem was the temp guage sensor in the wrong place causing a false reading. I removed it replaced it with new and installed it in the correct location just below the thermostat.
5. The oil pressure gauge was also reading wrong so I replaced that with a new one.
6. There was also a problem with the clutch lever fouling on the LR spring. When I had the clutch apart I found there was excessive wear in the Throw out fork shaft. I shimmed it so the lever stays centered as it should and the clutch mechanism works like new now.

I have worked on it steadily, repairing problems and adding lightness whenever the opportunity presented itself.

[t walgamuth]

These pictures include the fan that I installed on the left radiator. When the weather is hot this fan can keep the engine from getting too hot.

[t walgamuth]

here are more pics

Note the short oil filter, the new fan switch and the new oil pressure gauge, the new ballistic battery (charger included). Note there is no seepage around any of the brake cylinders.

The frame on this Reynard impresses with its clean strong looking welds and excellent triangulation providing a stiff platform for the suspension to work from.

[t walgamuth]

Note the clean underside with dry scratches. The bottom of the transaxle is dry as well with no cracks or seeps noted.

[t walgamuth]

here shows the seat which is too narrow in the hips and torso for this mountain gorilla like man. The Reynard assembly book and various invoices are also shown.

[t walgamuth]

This car has a most roomy cockpit (for a formula ford). I am 5'8 and 202# with a broad torso and long arms (5' 9"" wingspan). My son in law who is 6' 2 and 230 sat in it last week and felt he could drive it. Of course narrow shoes are required but there is lots of legroom and width compared to other FF I have tried to fit into. It weighs right at 900# so I am very near the minimum in it ready to compete. It also has a longer wheelbase than some FF so that gives more legroom.

[marshall9]

What is required to 'Undo" an integral first gear modification to an MK8/9 transmission? Top rockers don't look Reynard-ish, shock perches look stressed...Larry O. or Averill can you help. or describe what you see here, as it pertains to convert back to road racing spec? Were the 85 FF plagued with the same gremlins/setup issues as the 85 FCs?

[t walgamuth]

The gear conversion requires a shaft and the gears for first you wish to run. I believe I still have the first gear that came in the car either as a spare or as my current fourth gear.

The suspension rockers substantially resemble the drawing isometric in the Reynard assembly manual. I would be surprised if they are not the factory part. The right rear rocker had a stress crack which I had welded before reassembling.

As for the spring perches looking stressed do you mean they look to be ready to fail? If that is your meaning I will just say that the frame looks pretty robust to me with no cracks observed.

The 85 as I understand it is a one year only design on the rear suspension using the push rods.

[car7316]

PM sent

[marshall9]

The gear conversion requires a shaft and the gears for first you wish to run. I believe I still have the first gear that came in the car either as a spare or as my current fourth gear.

The suspension rockers substantially resemble the drawing isometric in the Reynard assembly manual. I would be surprised if they are not the factory part. The right rear rocker had a stress crack which I had welded before reassembling.

As for the spring perches looking stressed do you mean they look to be ready to fail? If that is your meaning I will just say that the frame looks pretty robust to me with no cracks observed.

The 85 as I understand it is a one year only design on the rear suspension using the push rods.

Ok, I get it now. I was looking at the rockers for the 'Solid" wide look, not the round bars.

[t walgamuth]

Ok, I get it now. I was looking at the rockers for the 'Solid" wide look, not the round bars.

Oh my yes. They are not that type suspension design!

After discussing the value of the car with some folks I have decided to reduce the asking price of the car and the trailer. Car is now $8500, trailer is $650.

The doctor has decided I have a torn rotator cuff so I don't know how much I'll be able to run this year.....so I am becoming a more motivated seller.

I removed a few redundant photos so I can add some pics of spare parts and paperwork including the Reynard assembly book.

I have had some interest in road racing folks so I am going to see if I still have the layshaft. OK, I didn't find the layshaft. I believe I sold it along to a FF guy in Australia.

I have additional pictures of the wheels, head and other parts but have hit the limit again and cannot attach. I will be happy to email some if someone wishes.

The first picture shows the bend in the rim of the steel wheel. It seems to not impact the actual bead area. The second pic is the compomotive wheel and the third is one of the steel wheels.

[356mal]

I am interested in the steel wheels
if the postage costs to australia are reasonable
I dont need the tyres just the rims
could you tell me an approx postage cost
thanks
mal

19. Steel wheels, 5.5" x 13", 4 bolt 3.75" with 3.5" backset, one slightly bent on inside: $100

[t walgamuth]

I am interested in the steel wheels
if the postage costs to australia are reasonable
I dont need the tyres just the rims
could you tell me an approx postage cost
thanks
mal

19. Steel wheels, 5.5" x 13", 4 bolt 3.75" with 3.5" backset, one slightly bent on inside: $100

Thanks for your interest but it looks as if I have them sold locally. I imagine the shipping to you would be at least equal to the cost of the wheels.

[t walgamuth]

A father and son team came yesterday to look at the Reynard. They liked it very much but they were just a bit too tall. Knees hitting the bottom of the dash and head still too high. The Mrs./Mom came along and she loved the Yellow and Orange livery.

[ckannan]

Is the car sold?

Chris from california

[t walgamuth]

It is still available.

I will consider a Porsche Boxter in trade.

Purchase of the car includes the new last year jumper battery and a wagon to pull all the support stuff from paddock.

I also reduced the price on the supertrapp muff.

Today a nice fellow from the Chicago area came over and we spent about two hours looking the car over, starting it, test fitting him in it and bench racing. We'll be looking for a time and place when he can do a co-drive to see if its really for him.

[t walgamuth]

The car is still available. I will be taking it down to Connersville on the 16th to run so it can be seen in action.

I will be happy to listen to any reasonable offers.

[t walgamuth]

Heading down to Connersville on Sunday.

Still available.

[t walgamuth]

Had a really good outing at Connersville. Now really not too sure about selling it. Held FTD in morning while track was still slippery and got beat out by the
F mod gang in the afternoon as the dry track generated some real good grip.

STill some tweaking available to get a bit more grip in back and ignition timing adjustment to get a little more HP.

[t walgamuth]

I am still somewhat reluctant to sell but am putting it back on the market now. I will continue to run it and make improvemnts to it as I enjoy both the driving and working on it. I am finishing up a double replacement of the master cylinders and a new brake line to the rear this week and plan to run it this weekend if possible.

[Larry]

Someone commented that the "rockers" didn't look Reynard-ish. The 85 came with pushrods on all four corners. Some people put the 83/4 rear rockers on, but the original had pushrods.

Larry Oliver

[chrisw52]

Someone commented that the "rockers" didn't look Reynard-ish. The 85 came with pushrods on all four corners. Some people put the 83/4 rear rockers on, but the original had pushrods.

Larry Oliver

What are the advantages or disadvantages of the swap?

[Larry]

The 85 rear suspension just didn't work as well as desired. In 86 Reynard went back to the 83/4 rockers, and in 87 they gave up on pushrods entirely.

Larry Oliver

[Offcamber1]

Saw your thread about possibly using an alternator on a Kent FF. Are you keeping the car or is it still for sale?

Thanks,

Kip

[t walgamuth]

Hi. I am still interested in selling if I can get a reasonable price. Until then I am continuing to improve it.

I have heard about the negatives on the push rod suspension and I have not had any trouble with mine. I suspect that when it was new folks simply were unfamiliar with it and had trouble finding the setup. Rather than figure it out in the midst of a racing season they simply converted it to what they were familiar with.

It has more ways to adjust things and so it there are more ways to get lost on setup.

[LAJ]

In answer to your bad press on the 85 Reynard. I have found only one informed(first hand knowledge) reply at all !!
From this thread:
http://www.apexspeed.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1172

I'll weigh in with my two cents worth:

To cure the rear end problems, we built a front motor mount that tied into the cylinder head and the ears on a cast Titan oil pan. We replaced the honeycomb aluminum cockpit side panels with round cross tubes to stiffen the chassis as well. I was able to install a rear sway bar of about 3/4 o.d. and then went to a blade adjustable type rear bar. Man that was an improvement!

We changed the routing of the water, we made the flow go from one rad to the other instead of being split between the two. No cooling problems in the Midwest during the hot, muggy summer months!

My driver won the Mid Div Regional Championship in 1995, won a National in 1996 plus ran up front in National during both seasons.

Biggest problem we had was the bolts that held the bell cranks in place up front kept unscrewing themselves! I never did figure that one out...

Each and every car has it's low points and it's high points. Many cars got a bad rap back in the day cause they were different and not every Joe Speedy could make it go fast.

Me? I love odd, weird but wonderful cars!

So, in closing, if you want to be like everyone else, buy a 1990 and newer Van Diemen, or a Swift DB1 or convert a DB-6. You prove something to yourself and others? Then buy that 85 Reynard, or that 85/86 Van Diemen or a 87-89 Reynard or a Crossle 60 F or a Mondial or a Ray.

I know what I'd buy, but then I've pretty much owned all of the above!

Good luck and have fun!!!

Bryan Cohn
bryancohnracing@yahoo.com

Someone won a National in one back (1996) when they would get 10 to 15cars for Nationals!! I have an 85 and did a torque test with bare block and head in the car and the stock thin front engine braces flex way to much!! This car without stiff front engine braces like mentioned above would not handle very well at all. 2 very solid front engine braces would make a world of difference !! I have seen these braces on a few 85 Reynards.

Lee
http://metroevents.com/jordaneng/index.htm

[Jim Garry]

Informed Opinion!!

Someone won a National in one back (1996) when they would get 10 to 15cars for Nationals!!
Lee
http://metroevents.com/jordaneng/index.htm

Dear "Informed Opinion",

The current form of CMod (1990 to present) has never had less than 15 entries in the open class.

In '96 a Citation FF won CMod in a field of 30 cars.

In '95 it was an '88 Van Diemen with 27 cars running.

In '97 it was a '88 Crossle with 33 cars.

In '98 it was a Swift with 30 cars.

In '99 it was a Tiga with 38 cars.

In '00 it was a Swift with 35 cars.

I don't have ready access to pre-'95 but can guarantee that the entry between 1990 (first year of the current version of CMod) and '94 ranged from 30 to 40+.

[t walgamuth]

In answer to your bad press on the 85 Reynard. I have found only one informed(first hand knowledge) reply at all !!
From this thread:
http://www.apexspeed.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1172


I'll weigh in with my two cents worth:

To cure the rear end problems, we built a front motor mount that tied into the cylinder head and the ears on a cast Titan oil pan. We replaced the honeycomb aluminum cockpit side panels with round cross tubes to stiffen the chassis as well. I was able to install a rear sway bar of about 3/4 o.d. and then went to a blade adjustable type rear bar. Man that was an improvement!

We changed the routing of the water, we made the flow go from one rad to the other instead of being split between the two. No cooling problems in the Midwest during the hot, muggy summer months!

My driver won the Mid Div Regional Championship in 1995, won a National in 1996 plus ran up front in National during both seasons.

Biggest problem we had was the bolts that held the bell cranks in place up front kept unscrewing themselves! I never did figure that one out...

Each and every car has it's low points and it's high points. Many cars got a bad rap back in the day cause they were different and not every Joe Speedy could make it go fast.

Me? I love odd, weird but wonderful cars!

So, in closing, if you want to be like everyone else, buy a 1990 and newer Van Diemen, or a Swift DB1 or convert a DB-6. You prove something to yourself and others? Then buy that 85 Reynard, or that 85/86 Van Diemen or a 87-89 Reynard or a Crossle 60 F or a Mondial or a Ray.

I know what I'd buy, but then I've pretty much owned all of the above!

Good luck and have fun!!!

bryan
__________________
Bryan Cohn
bryancohnracing@yahoo.com

Someone won a National in one back (1996) when they would get 10 to 15cars for Nationals!!
I have an 85 and did a torque test with bare block and head in the car and the stock thin front engine braces flex way to much!! This car without stiff front engine braces like mentioned above would not handle very well at all. 2 very solid front engine braces would make a world of difference !! I have seen these braces on a few 85 Reynards.
Lee
http://metroevents.com/jordaneng/index.htm

Hi Lee. Thanks for your comments. My car has no honycomb sides and has a rather rugged looking tube frame around the cockpit and around the engine. There is a 1/4" thick aluminum brace that ties the head to the side tubes so for what its worth it appears that the engine does supply some stiffness to the chassis. I have not tested it but it looks pretty stiff torsionally to me. I do have a blade type sway link in back so maybe I have your old car...?

The cooling idea sounds interesting but I am lost on the science of running coolant from one rad to the other being better. It seems to me that the hotter the entering coolant to each radiator the more transfer there would be.

[Lynn]

Dear "Informed Opinion",

The current form of CMod (1990 to present) has never had less than 15 entries in the open class.

In 1996 a Citation FF won CMod in a field of 30 cars.

In '95 it was an '88 Van Dieman with 27 cars running.

In '97 it was a '98 Crossle with 33 cars.

In '98 it was a Swift with 30 cars.

In '99 it was a Tiga with 38 cars.

In '00 it was a Swift with 35 cars.

I don't have ready access to pre-'95 but can guarantee that the entry between 1990 (first year of the current version of CMod) and '94 ranged from 30 to 40+.

I think Lee was talking about FF at Nationals club races.

[t walgamuth]

The car is still available.

[t walgamuth]

Car is still available.

[DaveW]

...
The cooling idea sounds interesting but I am lost on the science of running coolant from one rad to the other being better. It seems to me that the hotter the entering coolant to each radiator the more transfer there would be.

The science behind that is two-fold:
1. Whether there is parallel flow or sequential flow, if the amount of heat transferred to the air is the same, the difference in coolant temperature from engine exit to engine entry will be the same. Assuming that is true, then that difference occurs whether there is sequential or parallel flow. So, given the above, the temperature difference between the beginning and end of the radiator flow path would be the same in either case. So, that does not result in or explain any difference.

2. The major difference between the two setups is the coolant-flow velocity through the radiators. The sequential setup will have twice the flow velocity through the radiators compared to the parallel setup. This increased velocity increases turbulence and decreases boundary layer thickness, both resulting in increased heat transfer efficiency between the coolant and the radiator tubes. Therefore, since the radiator metal will run warmer, and more heat will be transferred to the air, the sequential setup will give greater cooling capacity for the same size radiators and coolant flow.

In addition, if the two parallel flows are not equal, even more advantage will be shown by the sequential setup.

[ric baribeault]

that's the science, and why Dave is the man.

[loudes13]

This is a great value! I've seen the car up close and would buy it myself if I had the room.

[t walgamuth]

Thanks for the positive comment!

I had a guy who wanted to come look at it last saturday but I could not accomodate.

I am going in for rotator cuff surgery Friday this week so will be slowed down a bit while recovering from that.

The car is still available.

[Rondo]

sorry to hear about the shoulder....speedy recovery to you!

[t walgamuth]

thanks Ron!


The shoulder seems to be doing pretty well. I am operating without the sling and doing therapy now, but its not really possible to do any physical work yet.
Surgery was Jan 3 and the doc said full recovery was six months. I have another appointment on Feb 24.


The car is still available.

[t walgamuth]

The car is still available. The shoulder is doing well but now I have to have surgery for Bladder stone removal next week so I am still pretty limited in what I can do.

[t walgamuth]

Here is the Moto-lita steering wheel I can sell. I am asking $75. Its in good shape. It has been used but the leather feels very strong, the lacing is intact and it is presentable. The only drawback to it compared to a new one for $200 (and up) is that it probably weighs a pound which is fairly heavy. its 10.5" d.

I am having trouble now with my picture downloading and sharing but am trying to get it fixed.