A few years back this car was listed on Craigslist with an asking price of $3500. Same photos - assuming same owner. It didn't sell before, not sure why he feels it worth $5k more now.
I just got back from looking over the Lola T-200/202 in Beaumont, Ca. It is Serial Number 74 on the Chassis tag, which causes some confusion. According to Lola’s build sheet #74 is a T-202 built October 16, 1970 and shipped to Haas. According to Haas’s invoice sheet it is a T-200 #74 sent to Charlie Hayes (the west coast distributor) September 27, 1970. It has transaxle H8-987 which Lola says was in T-204 #83 which was built November 2-1970 and shipped to Haas and he shows it as a T-202 #83 (red) shipped to Hayes November 30, 1970.
Because of the bodywork and roll bar configuration(it looks to be original factory I would guess it to be a early T-202. The SCCA (CalClub) roll bar stamp is 19.030. The engine is a Cortina 2737E6015B and has no cylinder head, carb, intake or Exhaust. Also missing are the radiator, sump tank, and oil cooler. While the car is very rusty it is remarkably complete. It has the original Lola seat, Smiths instruments and a enamel original nose badge. The brake rotors are between .400” and .440” thick. I saw no signs of major chassis damage. The horns that mount the radiator are bent but fixable. The trailer comes with it. This would be a good project car for someone who can do all the mechanical and paintwork if you could buy the car at the right price. I would guess (after doing the same on Miss Lola) that it would run 10 to 12K dollars in parts to bring her back to full racing trim. You would just have to do all but the machining yourself. I would hope that sounds interesting to someone as I would hate to see #74 go on the “lost forever” list. I have no dog in this fight, I am just supplying information.
Murray
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Murray Chalmers Miss Lola's kept man.
Oh yeah I told him that a race ready car might bring $16k and it would take $12k in parts alone so he knows about where he is. I would think $4k plus or minus $1500 might be the right price. That said the buyer would have to nearly all the work himself to come out even.
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Murray Chalmers Miss Lola's kept man.
I did not ask about that specifically, but I don't think he has anything like that. He does have the name of the guy he got the car from so it is possible that one could go backward though previous owners for more history information. My experience is that it is a low percentage exercise. When people essentially abandon a race car they often dump the history as well. It does seem to be a Southern California car with a roll bar number that would be consistent with when it was new so the information would be in the SCCA archives, but i understand that even with them records from that far back are hard to get.
Murray
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Murray Chalmers Miss Lola's kept man.
I've tried to work with these guys since late May, went to look at the car and made an offer of $4K. It was a grand more than I thought it was worth, but it seemed a shame to let the car sit for another 10 years or so, at which point it would be beyond recovery. I've been waiting for an answer to my offer, and finally had to put a deadline on it.
I just got my answer: they feel like they want at least $6K for it!
I'm very sad as I feel this would have made a nice little car given a lot of $'s and TLC but it now will probably be consigned to the lost forever pile.
Ian;
I think you are about right. Having restored My current one from a basket of parts and the one I did for my wife (also a T-200) which was complete but not driven for 15 years, I can say with some authority that this car can be restored but it will take in the region of $12k in parts and engine machine work and perhaps a Hewland rework, so anything much over $4k for it would mean being a bit underwater when done.
Murray
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Murray Chalmers Miss Lola's kept man.
I just wanted to let the group know that this poor sad car has found a home
It arrived in my shop in San Clemente yesterday and was immediately treated to a bath! Well a pressure wash anyway. It really is a bit of a time capsule, and whilst a bit rusty it is quite complete and original. I'm looking forward to bringing it back to it former glory!
I ended up paying more than I should have, but someone had to rescue the poor thing. I'm going to be upside-down before I'm finished so what's a few hundred dollars more?
The car has a Cortina block in it, no head, and it may be the original engine. I just can't find any numbers on the block to try and identify it. The engine is still in the car so viewing is not that easy, unless you know where to look! Does anyone have any idea where these engines may have been stamped with a serial number?
I'm going to need a few parts to complete the car so I'll be posting on here for anyone with Lola T-200/202/204 parts looking for a good home!
I responded to your other message but I see you know about the casting numbers. That is the same block I have which mine came out of a 68 Cortina GT. I can't find any numbers other than the casting numbers on mine. I checked all the machined exterior surfaces and nothing. Great to see you are going to re-ignite it's fire. I found out a whole bunch on mine from the roll bar stamp. It is surprising what SCCA and clubs have stored away. I have traced the owners of mine back to 1971, all except one from 77-79. Good luck.
i have a used rear lola upright been cracked weld repaired chromated looks tidy ideal spare get u in the race part
can also supply you with new uprights from UK
Ian,
I have some Cortina engine parts in my "stash-o-race car parts" Looks like you already have a cylinder head. I believe that I've got a stock carb and intake in there somewhere. If interested, get back to me with an offer. I'll give you a good deal on them!
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Jack Bartelt
Lola T540 CFF
Commissioner, Midwestern Council Wrestling Federation (MCWF)
Midwestern Council of Sports Car Clubs
The world's leading collector of Cortina engine bits will have anything you want - expertise or bits. Contact John Mihalich, jmihalich |at| tristategt.org or 970-326-5631.
The project is underway and the chassis has just gone to be sand blasted so that we can check out all the brazed joints etc. We'll also be repairing/replacing the radiator mount horns. Once all the repairs are done I'll be Powdercoating the chassis in a mid-grey and adding an Aluminium floor. The gearbox is stripped and cleaned and we'll be welding up a small hairline crack in the case next week. I think it's going to need a new C.W.P so I'll have to send it out to have that set-up properly, new bearings etc.
I have a Kent FF engine that I was going to use, but your comments have made me think about keeping the Cortina engine. I'll have to check the rules regarding allowance for reboring as it will definitely need it, but if using the block is a possibility I make take a serious look at the possibility. I do have a spare head from a FF Kent engine, but I don't think you're allowed to mix and match parts.
I may very well be in touch for some parts, advice etc.
I have a Kent FF engine that I was going to use, but your comments have made me think about keeping the Cortina engine. I'll have to check the rules regarding allowance for reboring as it will definitely need it, but if using the block is a possibility I make take a serious look at the possibility. I do have a spare head from a FF Kent engine, but I don't think you're allowed to mix and match parts.
I may very well be in touch for some parts, advice etc.
All the best for a great holiday season.
Ian
Hello Ian,
Mike Drouin aka CortinaLodi may be a good resource for you too, he is in the member list. There is also a Cortina List on Yahoo Groups for more parts, several members in Socal.
I have a Cortina head and some other items that may help. Check the SCCA GCR online to see what is legal.
The GCR allows 0.030 bore over stock if you use a Cortina head. A Cortina motor allows a 50# weight reduction to 1050#. I would check with the resources given by others and above to see if 0.030 pistons and rings are available. It is ok to use a 711 crank or a new steel crank.
The Cortina blocks with the stronger square main caps are more desirable. I have an extra set of caps but using them will require line boring. You are welcome to the caps and head if you want. I can bring them down to OC next month when I visit family.
Regards,
Dan Wise
__________________ "Driving a Lotus is a triumph of bravery over intelligence." Stirling Moss
Don't powder coat, unless you just want to make a show car out of it!
In the only historic series around here that weighs the cars, 1100# with driver is the only min weight.
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Roland Johnson
rjcsandiego@sbcglobal.net
619-294-7012
I agree with Roland. Powder coating is so strong and flexible that you can develop rather serious frame cracks and they will not show. It also makes welding or brazing said cracks a big problem as it interferes with metal prep for the welding of future cracks.
Murray
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Murray Chalmers Miss Lola's kept man.
1971 Lola
