Home
ApexSpeed Portal HomeApexSpeed Reader GalleryApexSpeed.blogsApexSpeed AdvertisingForums













Old April 27th, 2011, 9:13 PM   #1
tjcezar
Contributing Member
 
tjcezar's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 26th, 2009
Location: PA
Posts: 583
Default Trailer roof sealant

Can any of u guys tell me what the best product for sealing a trailer roof. I have a small leak around the dome and the stuff around the edges is looking pretty weathered so i figured I would re do it.
__________________
Better to have raced for a day...
than been a spectator for life!
tjcezar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old April 28th, 2011, 7:18 AM   #2
witsend
Member
 
Join Date: September 8th, 2010
Location: Edgewater, Florida
Posts: 24
Default Roof Sealer

Any good RV dealer should have several choices. The best one I've used is clear and stays pliable. Put it on with a small brush. Be sure the area is clean and dry. I always re sealed all the joints on my camper every 2 years because of the cold weather freezing any moisture and opening the joints.
witsend is offline   Reply With Quote
Old April 28th, 2011, 8:05 PM   #3
brownslane
Senior Member
 
brownslane's Avatar
 
Join Date: November 9th, 2007
Location: Markham, Ontario
Posts: 818
Default RV stuff

I have been treating my haulmark for almost 20 years. I use the brush-on sealant around all the joints, then I brush on a coat of Tremclad aluminum enamel paint. Its a sticky enamel that stays flexible and the aluminum color reflects sunlight and keeps the trailer cooler.

Never had a leak ever.

I'll bet the brush-on bed-liner stuff would work great as well.

Tom
__________________
Tom Owen
Owner - Browns Lane and Racelaminates.com
brownslane is online now   Reply With Quote
Old April 29th, 2011, 7:36 AM   #4
problemchild
Contributing Member
 
problemchild's Avatar
 
Join Date: October 22nd, 2002
Location: Sanborn, NY
Posts: 2,096
Default

Home Depot has a product much like Tom describes. My RV friends hooked me up with it. It is a sealer for metal roofs, has a silver color to it, and worked great ..... presumably at a fraction of what a RV dealer would sell you for the same job.
__________________
Greg Rice
RICE RACE PREP
Premium Motorsport Services
http://www.riceraceprep.com/
problemchild is online now   Reply With Quote
Old April 29th, 2011, 10:00 AM   #5
racer27
Contributing Member
 
racer27's Avatar
 
Join Date: November 16th, 2002
Location: North Eastern NJ
Posts: 1,869
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by problemchild View Post
Home Depot has a product much like Tom describes. My RV friends hooked me up with it. It is a sealer for metal roofs, has a silver color to it, and worked great ..... presumably at a fraction of what a RV dealer would sell you for the same job.
That's whay I use, got it from lowes. Apply with a roller/brush. Maybe do a second coat just on the seams. A gallon goes a long way.
__________________
AMBROSE BULDO - Abuldo at AOL.com
Possibly looking for FF FIT Conversion Candidate
CURRENT: Intrepid Siverstone KPV3 Kart
GONE: CITATION 87/93 FC, VD RF-85FF , 1981 FIAT Spider Turbo
racer27 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old April 29th, 2011, 6:57 PM   #6
Steve Demeter
Contributing Member
 
Steve Demeter's Avatar
 
Join Date: July 1st, 2001
Location: Beavercreek, Ohio 45434
Posts: 3,967
Default

I did not have any leaks, but the roof was starting to rust in areas where the galvanizing was gone.

Tried the silver stuff with little success. It rusted right through it.

Got some stuff called elastomeric roof sealant at Lowes. It is white, goes on thick and has not shown any sign of deterioration for about 5 years now. It stays somewhat flexible.

Took 2 gallons to put 2 fairly thick coats on my 22 footer. Was about $18 a gallon.
Steve Demeter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old April 29th, 2011, 7:03 PM   #7
cooleyjb
Senior Member
 
cooleyjb's Avatar
 
Join Date: February 13th, 2005
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 1,447
Default

How are you guys prepping this?

Just rinse it and put it on over whatever is there or removing old stuff?
__________________
Joe Cooley : Bald Spot Sports, AIM, Safety Solutions,
cooleyjb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old April 29th, 2011, 9:00 PM   #8
tjcezar
Contributing Member
 
tjcezar's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 26th, 2009
Location: PA
Posts: 583
Default

ok first I was just gonna seal the edges but now I may recoat the whole thing since I have seen some rust spots also
__________________
Better to have raced for a day...
than been a spectator for life!
tjcezar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old April 29th, 2011, 10:08 PM   #9
tedsimmons2
Contributing Member
 
Join Date: February 10th, 2006
Location: Silver Spring, MD
Posts: 130
Default Roof help

"Got some stuff called elastomeric roof sealant at Lowes".

Steve - did you put this stuff over the rust or prep it first?
tedsimmons2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old April 30th, 2011, 8:49 AM   #10
brownslane
Senior Member
 
brownslane's Avatar
 
Join Date: November 9th, 2007
Location: Markham, Ontario
Posts: 818
Default Rust

You need to remove the rust first, or it will just continue to corrode. If you have corrosion under vents, etc, they need to be removed, the rust needs to be mechanically removed (sanding/grinding) then properly primed. For galvanized steel, special primer is needed. Use Zinc-Chromate primer. up here, it is available at Canadian Tire (Great Name, Eh? )
In the 'States, I am sure you can find some locally...you can use 3M "weld-through" coating, available at welding supply stores. then top coat with a good quality rattle-can paint.

For the rest of the roof, you need to remove any loose materials (use a wire brush and some elbow-grease) and ideally power wash. Finally!! you can top coat with the sealant....

Ya, it takes time to do it right! But if you do a good job, you are protecting your trailer for a long time.

Have fun!

T
__________________
Tom Owen
Owner - Browns Lane and Racelaminates.com
brownslane is online now   Reply With Quote
Old April 30th, 2011, 9:55 AM   #11
JeremyS
Member
 
Join Date: November 18th, 2006
Location: Nashville, TN
Posts: 17
Default

If you are talking about seams, butyl tape a much better and more permanent alternative. It's the same stuff that they use in double-sided form to bond the panels of 'screwless' trailers together. On the advice of a friend that works at one of the big trailer manufacturers, I used a product called Eternabond on both of my trailers last year. There are similar products from 3M and probably others, but I found that eternabond was more commonly available. If you do some searching, there are a couple discounters online that sell for considerably less than retail.

If you do the prep right, the stuff will theoretically last the life of the trailer. Be sure to remove ALL traces of silicone prior to installation. Other caulk is OK, but this stuff will not bond to silicone. I ignored that little nugget of info and had a couple areas pull up after a week. If you've used silicone for repairs in the past, use a wire brush on a drill or grinder and remove all traces. I used a scotchbrite roloc and followed that up with an acetone wipedown. Primer is also recommended. When applying, be sure to use a roller and plenty of pressure to get a good bond. I bought a laminate roller from the flooring section at Lowes.

It's all a little pricey compared to a couple tubes of caulk, but IMO it's worth it for the durability. Based on reading of RV forums and the aforementioned conversation, a lot of manufacturers are starting to use tape rather than caulk for sealing roof seams.
JeremyS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old April 30th, 2011, 11:21 AM   #12
brownslane
Senior Member
 
brownslane's Avatar
 
Join Date: November 9th, 2007
Location: Markham, Ontario
Posts: 818
Default

Jeremy you are right about using tape for new construction. I use it on E-type bonnets for bonding new panel seams. It is not recommended for used parts or external seam sealing. The parts must be separated, bead blasted, primed and top coated. Otherwise the bond will not work.

If you are looking for an in-the-field repair, then there are some great products out there that can be applied into existing seams using a calking gun. Two I have used are 3M's 5200 urethane and Sikkens Sikaflex. Both are an air (moisture) cured urethane structural adhesive. Suitable for the marine community as well, they are know as the "Black Death" in these parts....because you will die with the stuff stuck to your skin!

And I agree with you about silicones. In my opinion they should be banned. they screw up all the other better products, mess up repainting and generally are as effective as duct tape!

Best, Tom




Quote:
Originally Posted by JeremyS View Post
If you are talking about seams, butyl tape a much better and more permanent alternative. It's the same stuff that they use in double-sided form to bond the panels of 'screwless' trailers together. On the advice of a friend that works at one of the big trailer manufacturers, I used a product called Eternabond on both of my trailers last year. There are similar products from 3M and probably others, but I found that eternabond was more commonly available. If you do some searching, there are a couple discounters online that sell for considerably less than retail.

If you do the prep right, the stuff will theoretically last the life of the trailer. Be sure to remove ALL traces of silicone prior to installation. Other caulk is OK, but this stuff will not bond to silicone. I ignored that little nugget of info and had a couple areas pull up after a week. If you've used silicone for repairs in the past, use a wire brush on a drill or grinder and remove all traces. I used a scotchbrite roloc and followed that up with an acetone wipedown. Primer is also recommended. When applying, be sure to use a roller and plenty of pressure to get a good bond. I bought a laminate roller from the flooring section at Lowes.

It's all a little pricey compared to a couple tubes of caulk, but IMO it's worth it for the durability. Based on reading of RV forums and the aforementioned conversation, a lot of manufacturers are starting to use tape rather than caulk for sealing roof seams.
__________________
Tom Owen
Owner - Browns Lane and Racelaminates.com
brownslane is online now   Reply With Quote
Old April 30th, 2011, 4:41 PM   #13
Steve Demeter
Contributing Member
 
Steve Demeter's Avatar
 
Join Date: July 1st, 2001
Location: Beavercreek, Ohio 45434
Posts: 3,967
Default

Steve - did you put this stuff over the rust or prep it first?

Very Very minor prep.

Wire brush the really loose stuff.

This stuff is like a layer of totally UV resistant and waterproof plastic when it dries
Steve Demeter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old May 2nd, 2011, 6:56 AM   #14
witsend
Member
 
Join Date: September 8th, 2010
Location: Edgewater, Florida
Posts: 24
Default Coating the entire roof

I never coated the entire roof with sealant. The rust spots can be taken care of with removing the rust and coating with cold galvanize spray. The major reason for not coating the entire roof in the north is snow removal. The roof is easier to clear without the coating to adhere to. Otherwise it will stick, melt, and freeze the joints open again, plus the weight will cave the roof in eventually. I also found the silver stuff more likely to get moisture under it, and open joints.
Besides that, why add 30+ pounds of weight if you really don't need it - carry more beer!
witsend is offline   Reply With Quote
Old May 2nd, 2011, 10:39 AM   #15
brownslane
Senior Member
 
brownslane's Avatar
 
Join Date: November 9th, 2007
Location: Markham, Ontario
Posts: 818
Default Snow Loads

I am in the "Great White" and never had a problem with snow getting under seams. I have always completely covered my trailer roofs with the enamel coating every two years. I doubt that the weight has added 10 pounds in the twenty years I have been doing it, but if an additional 30 pounds (as you suggest) would collapse the roof, then you bought the wrong trailer!

And in terms of snow removal, my trailer has a rounded roof and is strong enough to walk on; So I never have had a problem with snow loads, on the trailers, the motor home or anything else.....now the roof on the cottage! That's another problem. But I am putting on a steel roof this summer so snow loads will be a thing of the past!

Good idea about galvanized paint for the rusty spots!

I would always coat the roof completely. In that way you don't get seams that could leak as the roof will be one continuous surface. Has always worked for me on all our trailers.

Tom


Quote:
Originally Posted by witsend View Post
I never coated the entire roof with sealant. The rust spots can be taken care of with removing the rust and coating with cold galvanize spray. The major reason for not coating the entire roof in the north is snow removal. The roof is easier to clear without the coating to adhere to. Otherwise it will stick, melt, and freeze the joints open again, plus the weight will cave the roof in eventually. I also found the silver stuff more likely to get moisture under it, and open joints.
Besides that, why add 30+ pounds of weight if you really don't need it - carry more beer!
__________________
Tom Owen
Owner - Browns Lane and Racelaminates.com
brownslane is online now   Reply With Quote
Old October 31st, 2012, 6:51 AM   #16
farrout
Contributing Member
 
farrout's Avatar
 
Join Date: August 19th, 2005
Location: Huntsville, Alabama
Posts: 214
Default

Interesting that no one mentioned Dicor Lap Sealant. ANyone have any issues with that stuff?
__________________
Craig Farr
1998 AMAC P2
FARROUT Racing
farrout is online now   Reply With Quote
Old October 31st, 2012, 9:08 AM   #17
DSRDAVE
Member
 
Join Date: July 3rd, 2008
Location: WISC
Posts: 50
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by farrout View Post
Interesting that no one mentioned Dicor Lap Sealant. ANyone have any issues with that stuff?
If you can find a product called Sicaflex (sp) it's used on semi trailers all the time and does a GREAT job of sealing joints and it remains flexable for years so as to continue sealing and not cracking.
DSRDAVE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old October 31st, 2012, 11:01 AM   #18
brownslane
Senior Member
 
brownslane's Avatar
 
Join Date: November 9th, 2007
Location: Markham, Ontario
Posts: 818
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by DSRDAVE View Post
If you can find a product called Sicaflex (sp) it's used on semi trailers all the time and does a GREAT job of sealing joints and it remains flexable for years so as to continue sealing and not cracking.

Sikaflex is a felxible urethane based adhesive sealant sold by Sikkens. Good stuff, and used to bond E-type bonnets together. I have found it hard to find, so replaced it with 3M 5200. This is a similar product to sikaflex, is a one-part sealant applied with a regular calking gun, and uses atmospheric moisture to cure. Works great. Oh ya, 5200 is used in the boat building industry. They call it the "black death"....because you will die before this stuff wears off your skin.

I just replaced the crank-out vent on my Pace trailer and installed the new vent with 5200. Glad the plastic lid can be replaced, because I don't want to have to chisel off the steel flange....it is well and truly stuck!

Best, Tom
__________________
Tom Owen
Owner - Browns Lane and Racelaminates.com
brownslane is online now   Reply With Quote
Old October 31st, 2012, 11:55 AM   #19
protoform
Senior Member
 
Join Date: March 23rd, 2011
Location: middleboro Massachusetts
Posts: 219
Default Dicor

It is used on rubber roofs most of the time. I use it on my motorcoach.works quite well, runs about $10.00 a tube "caulking gun size" from an rv dealer.
protoform is offline   Reply With Quote
Old November 1st, 2012, 7:59 AM   #20
Captain
Senior Member
 
Join Date: July 1st, 2007
Location: Northern NJ
Posts: 119
Default

Another vote for the stuff lowes sells.

I think its called "Kool Seal"

I used the thicker stuff for the gaps. Its like a paste. And you use something similar to the mesh tape used in drywall spackling. Used a paint brush to paint over the paste when it dried, and the rest of the trailer.

Easy to apply and cheap.

I used a wire brush on the angle grinder to rough up the rusty areas. Its been 5? years. Probably due for a new coat....but no leaks!


Jim
Captain is offline   Reply With Quote
Old January 8th, 2013, 9:41 PM   #21
Rick Ross
Contributing Member
 
Rick Ross's Avatar
 
Join Date: April 2nd, 2002
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 1,199
Default

I've attached a few pics of some "problem areas" on my trailer roof. The trailer is in very good condition overall, but it may be time for a little roof TLC.

I would appreciate any comments regarding the best methods and materials to repair the areas where the roof sealant is starting to "crack". Would something like Flow-Seal or 3M 5200 be appropriate? Do I need to dig out all the old sealant first?

Also, there is a a small crack in the plastic nose cap, probably due to impact with something. Do I need to make a small fiberglass patch, or just stop-drill, clean, and apply some surface sealant?

Thanks!

IMG_2928.jpg

IMG_2930.jpg

IMG_2932.jpg

IMG_2933.jpg
Rick Ross is offline   Reply With Quote
Old January 8th, 2013, 9:59 PM   #22
racerdad2
Contributing Member
 
racerdad2's Avatar
 
Join Date: September 20th, 2011
Location: Mn
Posts: 1,697
Default

Pressure was roof, Dig out the old stuff that's loose... 5200 joints & seams, let cure, clean & spot prime rust areas, then 'paint' the entire roof with the white elastomeric kool seal... Re-coat every year or two... My camper & car hauler are nearly twenty years old, no leaks....
__________________
"Far better to have raced & lost than to have never raced at all"
racerdad2 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old January 8th, 2013, 11:54 PM   #23
Fast&Cool
Member
 
Fast&Cool's Avatar
 
Join Date: July 16th, 2011
Location: Munster, Indiana
Posts: 38
Default Trailer Roof Leak

Rick, I looked at your trailer roof problem, the other guy is suggesting to use elastomatic paint, that would be okay for fine hairline cracks and consistant surfaces. The only and best way to cure your problem to be goood for a long haul would be to glue rubber over the entire roof, smooth it out a little bit, and glue it down. If you can, take the trim channels off, roll the rubber down the side wall 2-3 inches, then put the channel back on over the rubber, use screws with rubber washers, to prevent water sipping in. Go to a flat-roofing supplier, and buy a roll of EPDM Rubber, and buy 1-2 gallons of primer adhesive to glue the rubber with. Fit the rubber first, roll it back halfway, apply the primer to both the rubber and the trailer roof, wait a few minutes, until it gets tacky, then roll the rubber back over where you glued, make sure to smooth it out to avoid air bubbles. Once your done with that half, then do the second half with the same process. Do not roll the rubber pull it back as a skirt, that way you can glue a couple feet at a time. Make sure both surfaces are clean, so nothing is traped between when you lay it down (use thinner to clean it). When you glue around the edges, use lap caulking so wind won't lift it up. This is how motorhomes roofs are done. If you have any further questions call me my name is George. (219)-718-9190. PS: Your problems will be solved forever!

Last edited by Fast&Cool; January 9th, 2013 at 12:07 AM.
Fast&Cool is offline   Reply With Quote
Old January 9th, 2013, 1:51 AM   #24
racerdad2
Contributing Member
 
racerdad2's Avatar
 
Join Date: September 20th, 2011
Location: Mn
Posts: 1,697
Default

Great advice !
__________________
"Far better to have raced & lost than to have never raced at all"
racerdad2 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old January 9th, 2013, 8:00 AM   #25
RussMcB
Contributing Member
 
RussMcB's Avatar
 
Join Date: March 19th, 2002
Location: Marietta, GA
Posts: 5,565
Default

Rick, I had some big sun cracks in my front, top plastic. To cover/seal them, I bought a gallon of some very thick and pliable sealant.

I'm not sure if it's what you need, but it was perfect for me. I bought black to match my trailer.

Information on the label:

Trailmobile
700-99-7
Sealing Mastic
Nationwide Parts and Service

I think I found it either on ebay or via Google.
__________________
Racer Russ
(former) FF/FC/FM/FS/FB/FA
Marietta, GA
RussMcB is online now   Reply With Quote
Old January 9th, 2013, 8:23 AM   #26
Modo
Senior Member
 
Modo's Avatar
 
Join Date: July 9th, 2004
Location: DC Area
Posts: 964
Default

New Year, New Solution!! Take it to "The Guy"


Yours Truly,
Project Overburdened
__________________
Mike O- Summit,Glen,Rd Atlanta,Rd America,Brainerd, Bryar,LimeRock,New Jersey MP,Trenton,Phoenix,Charlotte, Vir,Mid Ohio,Riverside,Buttonwillow,Vegas,Nelson,Pocono,
West Palm,Mosport,Mt Tremblan,Bridgehampton,Heartland
Modo is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 11:56 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
©ApexSpeed 2000-2013