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Old October 28th, 2009, 12:04 PM   #1
TimW
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Default CherryMax 3214 flush rivets advice

On my 0.060 stainless floor I've been using the standard universal head CherryMax (CR3213) rivets to hold the bellypan in place while the structural adhesive bonds. This has worked mostly fine but in improving the ride control on the car (and thus a lower ride height) the nominal kerb excursion wipes these off pretty swiftly and creates more maintenance and/or accelerates the delamination of the bond.

I have previously avoided the CR3212 (MS20426) flush rivets as the c-sink depth of 0.041" on a 0.060" sheet seems to be a bit thin. But wondering if anyone has had any luck with the CR3214 (NAS1097) flush rivets which are labeled as 'thin top sheet flush shear head' and have only a 0.028" c-sink depth.

Details here, page 9 - 10: http://www.cherryaerospace.com/files...og/CA-1011.pdf

I'm still trying to decide on what the thickness of my next floor will be (though I did just sign up for a half marathon...) and interested in the best option if it stays at the 0.060" thickness. Both parts appear to be readily available, if not cheap...

Advice?

Tim
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Old October 28th, 2009, 3:43 PM   #2
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Why not use 0.080 thick 6061-T6 for the belly pan? Brings you in about 12 to 14 pounds lighter then steel and gives you the extra thickness for flush rivets.
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Old October 28th, 2009, 3:51 PM   #3
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Why not use 0.080 thick 6061-T6 for the belly pan? Brings you in about 12 to 14 pounds lighter then steel and gives you the extra thickness for flush rivets.
1) then I'd be 10-12 lbs underweight in a car that has little room for lead ballast.

2) prefer the toughness of stainless for safety reasons.
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Old October 28th, 2009, 5:49 PM   #4
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Tim,
Iirc, the rivets are really just for holdong the pan until the glue dries. FWIW, I use an .060 pan with the 3213 rivets. Biggst thing is I make a custom front skid block that covers the entire front of the chassis out of .090 moly.

John
PS, There is lots of room for ballast. I have about 31 # around the fire bottle.
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Old October 28th, 2009, 6:05 PM   #5
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Thanks John. Yep, have the chassis wide skid on the front too. Its the rivets under the fuel cell, under me & under the diving board in the back that seem to disappear quickly if I try to use all the track. I've found if I don't replace those rivets timely that area will delaminate quicker than other areas.


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PS, There is lots of room for ballast. I have about 31 # around the fire bottle.
I have about 200-ish lbs over the fire bottle...about 20 too many, if you know what I mean....
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Old October 28th, 2009, 6:44 PM   #6
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Tim,

Used those rivets all the time when I was the aircraft repair business. They will be plenty strong. Make sure you don't "knife edge" the counter sink. A microstop will be worth the money for cutting the c-sinks.

Dan
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Old October 28th, 2009, 7:18 PM   #7
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Thanks Dan. Would the Monel sleeved version be overkill for this? I tend to hit a lot of kerbs, just never the one at the apex...

Tim
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Old October 28th, 2009, 7:25 PM   #8
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Tim,
Only problem with monel is that they are a BEAR to remove! You will want a pnuematic puller for the monel 3/16" rivets. A Marston hand riveter will do the job on the Al. rivets. Also, use a structural adhesive on the rivets when you install them. Greatly improves their fatigue life.


Dan
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Old October 28th, 2009, 7:38 PM   #9
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Quote:
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1) then I'd be 10-12 lbs underweight in a car that has little room for lead ballast.....
Wish we had that problem. Trying to get 53 Lbs off the car for a 190 Lb driver to be at weight as a part of our rebuild. Sigh....
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Old October 29th, 2009, 9:37 PM   #10
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If your adhesive is delaminating then you should look at the one the classic car guys use to "weld" panels together. It will bond better than TIG.

James
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