Ok all this is what I have planned and all the parts are in place. Does it make sense to you guys?
G.
Ok all this is what I have planned and all the parts are in place. Does it make sense to you guys?
G.
G. Brian Metcalf
72 AutoD MK4
1991 Mysterian M2
2014 ALR73 FV/FST
Brian,
Your drawings look correct .. however, IMHO, full flow oil filters/coolers are a LOT more trouble than they are worth. MOST FV's just filter/cool using the bypass spot on the top of the block. Changing the engine with full flow is generally twice the effort and twice the mess for no measurable gain.
Of course, YMMV
Steve, FV80
Racing since '73 - FV since '77
Steve:
I understand what you are saying, and honestly I prefer simplicity. The engine I purchased came with a full flow pump and I had 99% of the parts to make it work. So rather than change out what the engine builder had I did what I do and that was to use what I had.
G.
G. Brian Metcalf
72 AutoD MK4
1991 Mysterian M2
2014 ALR73 FV/FST
1) You can crack the boss on the engine where return fitting is screwed in.
2) A touch more efficient flow when the return line feeds in at the oil cooler mount.
Brian
The full-flow system does a better job. You will need to change your engine less with a full-flow system. If you only have one engine, what does it matter.
Those blocks are good if you have a fleet of cars and fleet of engines and you want to be able to swap them around easily and quickly.
When plumbing the lines, the in-out on the oil filter block refers to in-out of the filter NOT in-out of the engine.
Greg Rice, RICERACEPREP.com
F1600 Arrive-N-Drive for FRP and SCCA, FC SCCA also. Including Runoffs
2020 & 2022 F1600 Champion, 2020 SCCA FF Champion, 2021 SCCA FC Champion,
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G. Brian Metcalf
72 AutoD MK4
1991 Mysterian M2
2014 ALR73 FV/FST
I personally have always used a full flow system since it's the only way to insure 100% filtering prior to entering the engine. Another issue I have run into with a combination oil filter /cooler block is that they can over stress the cases and cause cracks. At over $700 for new cases it's worth considering. I like the block in your picture because it doesn't look to offset or heavy.
With a full flow system you'll need to be patient when starting a motor that has sat for some time. It takes a bit of time to prime the entire system before the bearings get lubed so pre crank the motor and get pressure. I have a separate ignition switch on my dash,
The above post is for reference only and your results may vary. This post is not intended to reflect the views and opinions of SCCA and should not be considered an analysis or opinion of the rules written in the GCR. thanks, Brian McCarthy, BOD area 9.
Other questions: what brand and weight oil do you intend to use? Road racing or pylon racing?
somewhat related, but not really - is there a trick to replacing the oil filter on one of these blocks (with the filter standing vertical above the engine) without making a huge mess?
If the engine's rings are step up correctly, you should be burning enough oil so as to never require an oil change. Say, 1 qt or more per (200 mi?) for an event/weekend. In theory you would only change the filter during a rebuild.
Brian
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