Hewland Mk 9 whine

*RussMcB* · July 1st, 2012, 7:51 PM

I have a whine and would like suggestions on how to pinpoint it and fix.

I believe (and have been told) it is probably the trans front bearing.

It whines at idle, with the transaxle in neutral. If I depress the clutch pedal completely, the whine stops. If I put light pressure on the clutch pedal, there is no audible change (so I don't think it's the throw-out bearing).

Is it likely the front bearing? If yes, can it be checked and replaced the next time I do a gear change? Or does the trans need to be separated from the engine for access and replacement? Any special tools needed?

I admit I have not spent time looking at Hewland manuals to get an answer. Thought I'd ask here first.

TIA.

*starkejt* · July 1st, 2012, 8:00 PM

Based on the "Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread," I predict an answer shortly.

WRD · July 1st, 2012, 9:12 PM

Josh doesn't miss a trick!

The only things spinning in neutral are the layshaft and dog gears so a whine could be either the layshaft front bearing, layshaft rear bearing, reverse idler, or one of the needle bearings under a gear.

Check them all visually, look for marks on the shaft and hubs where the needle bearings run, and also, check the backlash and teeth on the reverse idler gears. If everything looks OK put the gearbox back together with no dog gears to narrow it down to one or the other shafts.

If it does turn out to be the layshaft front bearing, which is very possible as its the smallest bearing in there, they are usually changeable with the box in the car, it may take a little fiddling to get the old one out but it can be done, if its one of the others then its a cakewalk!

Any questions give us a call.

Lee

*RussMcB* · July 1st, 2012, 10:06 PM

Thank you very much, Lee.

kea · July 2nd, 2012, 9:44 AM

Seen that before.
Customer changed some gears for another track and then whine was heard.
Noise was from one of the gearsets.
Changed the bad ratio problem solved.

*aerobach* · July 3rd, 2012, 11:40 PM

Ditto what Keith said.
Changed gears for a new track but didn't start car before going to that track and discovered the "whine" during morning warm-up. Finally figured out it was a mismatched gear (turned out to be 4th gear on a track so short that no one was using 4th!! Of course I didn't learn that until the afternoon).

Good luck, jb

Murray · July 5th, 2012, 8:27 PM

Two things to look at first. With the clutch in the gear sets are stationary so it could be a gear set problem. First you cannot use a gear set that has one Hewland gear and one Webber. For example if you are installing a 23:32 both gears must be either Hewland or Webber or they will make noise. There are also some combinations of gears that will allow you to assemble with a driven gear of one ratio and a driving gear from another gear set. Check all the gears to see that each gear set is properly matched then if all that is right the bearings would be the next place to look.
Murray

*RussMcB* · July 21st, 2012, 9:40 PM

I finally got around to looking inside my gearbox tonight and found the layshaft front needle bearing had started to lose rollers. Most were still in place, so I might be lucky and get away with a simple replacement. Looks like the old one can come out with some decent circlip pliers. Layshaft looks okay.

Purple Frog · July 21st, 2012, 9:53 PM

I got mine out with a small slide-hammer. Unfortunately for me, i had to buy a layshaft from Lee.

WRD · July 21st, 2012, 10:05 PM

Thanks for the update, what oil are you running? Some of the commercially available oils cause soft metal wear now after the removal of certain additives due to EPA restrictions.

If you have any questions give us a call.

Lee

*RussMcB* · July 21st, 2012, 10:57 PM

Thanks, Lee. I"ll plan to call you in a day or so.

I've always used Redline Shockproof Lightweight, but interestingly, my last gear change I used a qt of Synergen SynGear (because I had some left from my FA ownership a few years ago). I assumed if the SynGear was good for the FA Staffs, it'd be okay for the FF Mk 9.

What do you recommend for an Mk 9 in a FF?

schiconst · August 29th, 2012, 5:53 PM

I came to find out from a FF expert that if you use Mobil 1 or equal you should add 1/2 of a small bottle of Zinc additive to the lube. Some of us have been having problems with the bearing cages wearing pre-maturely! Some gear lubes have it already. I use it in both my RF83 and DB6.

kea · August 29th, 2012, 6:10 PM

Instead of buying one oil and then something else to "docter it up", I just use Redline Shock-Proof light in the Hewland Mk8/9 and LD-200 gearboxes I see around here.

mwizard · August 30th, 2012, 10:40 PM

Ok, this seems to b a good thread to ask... I have an LD200. When I pull the fill plug on the top and look in, how high on the gears should the oil be? Cover all the gears?
Mark

*starkejt* · August 31st, 2012, 6:36 AM

For an LD, you are safe at 1.5 qt. Some tracks and circumstances, 1.25 qt or even 1 qt is enough.

kea · August 31st, 2012, 10:15 AM

The oil in your LD box will not "cover" the gears but be picked up by the partially submerged lower set of gears and carried on to the upper set.
I still, after 40 years, only use one quart of lube (I prefer Redline Shock-Proof Light) per gear change in both the Mk4-6-8-9 series and the LD200 Hewland gearboxes.

schiconst · August 31st, 2012, 10:29 AM

Do you recommend red line for the Staffs as well?

kea · August 31st, 2012, 1:19 PM

I'm not an expert on the Staffs.
I've had many customers who have run that gearbox, also use the Redline Shock-Proof Light lubricant, in applications where you might have used either of those two Hewland gearboxes.