Mygale Build Pictures

[david oleary]

Here are the pictures of the build, everything is being powered coated now
and we hope to be testing in August,
Almost every thing is NEW at this point, 4 piston brake package, diff, shocks rebuilt,
HRP diffuser and Floor extensions, Aim dash, Moon Super Cycle shop engines, noses'
Wheels, Tires, Rains,
the car pictures were before build started
doleary@rohrich.com if any questions

just converted to a P2 also for 2017, will run in both classes
email for pictures

[Earley Motorsports]

Nice conversion

[ghickman]

What's the chain idler for?

[david oleary]

Hello Gary
the idler is design to re adjust the chain as it wears and loosens up,
there is no adjustment on moving the diff, so as you change gearing
or wear you adjust it by the idler bolts
dave

[ghickman]

I haven't seen this method work very well, mainly due to structural issues. The tension on the idler is usually off the scale.

Everything else I see looks top notch. Job well done.

[david oleary]

Hi Gary

I guess we will find out as we test it? the biggest concern we had was the bearing inside
we had to find a bearing that could handle the RPM's of the motor, this one is good for 30k RPM
We had our crew chief who owns his own machine shop for 40 plus years design it and also had it inspected by a engineer both felt it was a good idea?

THIS CAR IS BEING BUILT BY TOM ASHBAUGH AND DAVE SMITH AND MYSELF

[ghickman]

Testing is always so much fun, the things you least expect to be problematic turn out to be otherwise.

Always nice to see new FB's getting out on the track. The class just keeps getting better.

[Mike Holland]

Thanks for the pictures. After testing is the ARRC in the picture?

[david oleary]

Hi Mike

Not sure what ARRC is????

[RussMcB]

ARRC = American Road Racing Championship (I think), held each year in Nov. at Road Atlanta. It's kinda like the Runoffs for regional racers.

The Mygale FB looks great.

Your diff mounting looks similar the the type I had on my F1000, developed by HRP (Mike Devins). For adjusting chain tension, it used shims between the frame/bulkhead and diff carrier. It was simple and worked pretty well. I had a small stash of shims in various thicknesses so it was easy to get the tension right. I think it's being used on several DSR cars. I'd suggest talking with Mike. The idler wheel might be okay, but it seems like it will have a hard life, especially with the engine cycling between accelerating & decelerating.

Good luck.

[david oleary]

Thanks Russ

I have never been to Road Atlanta, could be interesting!!
We are at a stand still right now, we took the car back apart this week
after the mock up and everything is being power coated and the shocks are
being rebuilt. We have all the NEW stuff to reassemble and will go thru 2 months of testing, and then install a NEW Moon engine for 2015.
I think it will be a good F1000 car, it is a very well built car from MYGALE and looks
like a very strong chassis.
dave

[glenn cooper]

Dave - I'm assuming the idler sprocket is there to keep the chain off of the forward leg of the left lower A arm?
My Nova Dieman had a similar idler, for the same (?) purpose, but it was mounted just a few inches to the rear of the front sprocket, and was mounted in a milled slot in the rear engine bay mount.
The system worked well, but anything other than a pair of sprockets and a chain is drag, plain and simple.
Is that Sean OConnel's old FC Mygale. If not it looks as amazingly sano as that car was!
The ARRC is the Spiritual Home of F1000. Search on here for race reports and whatnot...

[david oleary]

Hi Glenn

The sprocket idler is also the chain adjuster, the rear diff was designed not to move so
it has no adjustment slots, it is mounted solid.
YES it is Sean's car. I bought from Scott who drove it twice and did not fit in it.
many. many, many updates since we got it.
Dave

[Jnovak]

A really nice job. Can't wait to see it in person.

[david oleary]

Thanks Jay
We will post the brake package as we reassemble it, we are using the brake package
we had on our 2006 WEST DSR, (4 piston calibers, 10" x .081 thick vented rotors)
they worked great on my DSR (custom fit by Tom) and they look cool!!!
and then I will post the assembly and final completed pictures.
dave

[glenn cooper]

The idler on the ND car was there for "fine"/race weekend adjustment, and the dif itself had shims of 1/8" and 1/4" alum to make major/sprocket change adjustments, but also to keep chain off of Lwr L forward leg of A arm as mentioned.

The brake pkg you mention is overkill for FB, my current car has 4 piston AP
calipers and thick vented rotors, so I'm speaking from experience.
That stuff IS amazing, but heavy.

Alum twin piston calipers on floating FC spec rotors is the favoured setup, weighs less and works just as amazingly well.

Of course if you have the DSR stuff just layin' there...

PS saw the stick on heat shield material on firewall in front of headers - may I suggest a proper heatshield from Cool Mat - which is a double sided stainless sheet w/ some kind of ceramic wool/NASA spaceage stuffing. Surface is dimpled, and they will make to your pattern, or in my case a pre made mat intended for a Ford GT was perfectly sized.
Depending how far the headers are from the firewall, the "stick-on" is going to "stick-off" in short order.

Again, the car looks badass!

[HayesCages]

... (4 piston calibers, 10" x .081 thick vented rotors)...

Those are pretty thin rotors ;-)

Did you use 4130 square tube for the frame you built for the rear suspension?

The car looks very nice!

Lawrence

[david oleary]

Hi Glenn
Thanks you for the input, I ran my DSR 5 years with no problems with brakes.
we won 2 championships in the NE one as a CSR and one as DSR those cars are
fast and I get a little worried about stopping them, maybe be over kill but it is a mind thing (damn driver)!!!!
That is what my crew guys say about me when I want to change the norm!!!
Hi Lawrence
Thank you for the comments, yes we used 4130 square tubing in the rear frame section

Dave

[asharfirst]

That heat shield is what was in the car not going to be there when done.

[asharfirst]

To everyone concerned about the idler pulley I was too so I redesigned it. Pictures to follow. Tom

[ghickman]

Wow that's some quick response to the forum.

It's the one thing that jumped out to me.

[david oleary]

hi Everyone
Well the parts are back from power coating and here are some pictures as we reassemble the car
1) brakes first
2) diff
3) frame on the next post

[david oleary]

more pictures

[HayesCages]

I know this has been mentioned before but... When I ran a 3500 lb. production car at 150 MPH I didn't have as much brake as you have on this chassis

Looks good!

[racerdad2]

Incredibly beautiful craftsmanship !

[david oleary]

Hi Lawrence

The brakes may be over kill somewhat, but if I understand that the FB will be as fast as
my West DSR or P2 I just felt that it should have the same stopping power?
The only draw back would be Weight and I think we took off about 150lbs from when we started so I think we will still be at the 1000 lbs mark.
thanks
dave

[Jasonrmbell]

Nice Job David

[ghickman]

If you ever need uprights for this car I have all the CAD models and have machined billet replacements with some added features.

[glenn cooper]

Hi Glenn

The sprocket idler is also the chain adjuster, the rear diff was designed not to move so it has no adjustment slots, it is mounted solid.
YES it is Sean's car. I bought from Scott who drove it twice and did not fit in it.
many. many, many updates since we got it.
Dave

What am I looking at in that new batch of pics?

On my last car (Nova Diemen) I ran no spacer, or one 1/8" or one 1/4" aluminum shim per side, to space the diff out from the rear bulkhead.

That massive stack of shim/spacers looks "not so flashy".

Regards, GC

[JRMarchand]

David

I really like the car and all the work you are doing. do you think those brakes will stay hot enough to work well. In a dsr, I could see venting the rotors because there is less airflow, wider tires and usually more top speed. Were those the original brakes as a mygale fc, I'm not criticizing at all, just wondering why carry all that extra mass. Thank you for showing your work, wish I had time to complete my FB, but I will try to shoot for ARRC this fall. Last time I saw your car was in 2004/05 or 06( memory fading) with Sean driving at that most awesome track in Braselton

jrm

[ghickman]

I'm with Coop on the shim stack, thought maybe I was the only one that noticed them....But at least you did convert to shims which is a step in the right direction.

Not diggin the big brakes, less is better (weight that is)

[RussMcB]

Regarding the shim stack, Perhaps most of those thick shims could be replaced with a solid block, then use fewer, thinner shims.

I forget the shim thicknesses we used (made by Mike Devins), but they were pretty thin (various thicknesses). It was surprising how much difference a single thin shim would make to the chain tension.

Car is looking great. It's gonna be a blast.

[david oleary]

THANKS GUYS FOR ALL THE INPUT.
As we o forward we may make some changes to the shim stack for the diff, I think maybe I big shim and then little ones to fine tune it.
Brakes well that is the DRIVERS input (ME) I just felt that the LD20 was not enough to
stop the high speeds and I REALLY liked the Brakes on my DSR, we will see
the worst case is we keep the rotors and change the calibers to 2 pistons I guess.

This car was Sean O'Conners FC MYGALE

Keep the comments coming please it really helps!!1
Thanks
dave

[asharfirst]

As I remembered on our DSR we had about 2 in. of adjustment so that's what I made here. I could not move the diff. forward any because the axles would hit the pushrods so all travel is back. Diff is mounted on 4 -1/2dia hardened pins that slide through hardened bushings to maintain alignment. Hard to see in pictures. Maybe if I get a chance I'll make a couple big spacers.

[BURKY]

If you have a chain failure, there is a good chance that the rear ARB controls can get damaged.

[david oleary]

Well Tom and Dave have been busting there butts building this car, here are the latest pictures, testing to start 8/14/14 . waiting for shocks to come back from being dynoed..

just a question on WEIGHT , for those of you that have converted a FC to a FB
have you found out that the #800 lb with out driver is hard to get to???
what have you done to get there?

[Northwind]

Really nice job so far. Looks like it is getting really close to the first outing. My only other comment is, my experience with these motors tells me you are going to need much more oil cooler than the one pictured in the right side pod. Especially if it is feeding on the warm air behind the radiator. The oil cools more components on these engines than most people think. Include the transmission and clutch duties when thinking about cooling demand. I hate to see a guy blow a motor the first day on the track with such a great job done on a new conversion. I'm really looking forward to seeing this car run. It should be a good one once it gets dialed in.

[Steve Demeter]

Packaging looks comparably clever and well thought out (as in F1 car).

Every nook and cranny seems to have something in it fitting just so.

[Wren]

Dan is correct. A radiator in one side pod and the largest oil cooler you can fit in the other side pod. You can always tape it if it is too large. An oil cooler that small is unlikely to work, especially if it sitting behind a radiator.

[asharfirst]

The rads and oil cooler are the ones run as a FC. I don't think I can get 1 rad big enough in the side pod to cool this engine. I have oil temp in dash so we will be watching this close. If we find its not big enough We'll put in a bigger one. That's what testing is for right.




Crew chief for Dave O'Leary

NE Div Nat. Champion
FM FF CSR DSR