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  1. #1
    Senior Member suzrm121's Avatar
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    Default Recepie for flow-vis Paint??

    Does anyone have a good Recepie for Flow-vis Paint


    This is what I have found so far but does anyone have a good "known to work" Recepie I just dosn't want to waste time at the track coming up with a paint recepie.

    Reccomended from Old NASA tests for transsonic flight tests:
    [FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=1][FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=1]

    [/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT]
    Linseed oil paint (white, yellow, blue, red)
    W50 motor oil
    Tempera powder paint
    Plastic syringe needle


    Mix 2 tubesof oil paint (1.25 oz each),
    4 heapingtbsp.of temperapowder,and 4oz
    of W50 motoroil; mix in more moto roil
    if necessary until oil easily runsoff mixing
    utensil
    [FONT=Arial][FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=1][FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=1]

    [/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][/FONT]

  2. #2
    Contributing Member Brandon Dixon's Avatar
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    Default Recepie for flow-vis Paint??

    Road Atlanta red clay and rainwater?
    Last edited by Brandon Dixon; 03.11.14 at 1:31 PM.

  3. #3
    Senior Member SEComposites's Avatar
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    Default

    Tempura paint powder (fluorescent if possible as it shows more detail under UV light), mineral spirits and a drop or two of oleic acid to keep the powder from coagulating.

  4. #4
    Contributing Member formulasuper's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Brandon Dixon View Post
    Road Atlanta red clay and rainwater?
    Definitely permanent, bleach can't touch this.
    Scott Woodruff
    83 RT5 Ralt/Scooteria Suzuki Formula S

    (former) F440/F5/FF/FC/FA
    65 FFR Cobra Roadster 4.6 DOHC

  5. #5
    Classifieds Super License John Robinson II's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Brandon Dixon View Post
    Road Atlanta red clay and rainwater?
    bathroom cleaner will remove the wonderful Ga red clay. maybe the paint as well. them scrubbing bubbles do the trick.

  6. #6
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    Default

    Thoroughly spray the body with WD-40 prior to applying the clay/rain/mud mixture...it's about the only thing WD-40 is good for Old trick from racing on clay ovals back in the day.

  7. #7
    Senior Member chrisw52's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Daryl DeArman View Post
    Thoroughly spray the body with WD-40 prior to applying the clay/rain/mud mixture...it's about the only thing WD-40 is good for Old trick from racing on clay ovals back in the day.
    oh that's slick...

  8. #8
    Contributing Member Frank C's Avatar
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    Default Recipes

    SE Composite's recipe is a good one. Times have changed, though, and it is now "Crayola" paint powder. Just the powder and engine oil will work acceptably. One also has a choice of whether to smear on the visualization paint and watch it move or drip on dots and watch them turn to lines or stop at separation lines or not move within separation zones. One has to beware of the effects of gravity on thinner liquids.
    - Frank C

  9. #9
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by SEComposites View Post
    Tempura paint powder (fluorescent if possible as it shows more detail under UV light), mineral spirits and a drop or two of oleic acid to keep the powder from coagulating.
    Mineral spirits? I would have thought these evaporated very quickly, especially while the car is moving.

    How do you clean this stuff up? Does the powder paint stain everything?

    Thanks very much. Interesting stuff.

    Jon

  10. #10
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    Default

    Where are you getting your knowledge/skill set to interpret the patterns that develop on the body work from the flowviz?

    Brian
    Last edited by Hardingfv32; 03.12.14 at 1:12 PM.

  11. #11
    Contributing Member Frank C's Avatar
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    Default Evaporating Solvent

    Using mineral spirits or kerosene as the solvent results in a picture that doesn't change when the vehicle (or the wind tunnel) stops. The solvent evaporates leaving the pigment stuck to the surface. One can see flow direction and, with some judgment, separation lines or zones. The fundamental is that the paint is moved by shear stress (at the surface) and shear stress goes to zero at a separation point. Hence the paint stops moving and puddles up at a separation line. Tufts also will show flow direction and will wave wildly in a separation zone. They don't show separation points/lines so clearly.
    - Frank C

  12. #12
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    Default

    I believe Shell Ondina Oils are the preferred oil. I have a couple DPF's on the subject.... Email

    Brian

    hardingfv32@verizon.net

  13. #13
    Banned Modo's Avatar
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    Off Topic ....... Be interesting to map out (MapInfo) deposits of Georgia red throughout the country with race cars at the 'Road' as a distribution mechanism, especially in the championship days. ...........How far does that Georgia Red go, I'll bet there are some granules outside the country, LOL!!!! .......

    Transonic?????? ... we're talking about 120mph, I'd drop down to 30 weight!!! .....

    PS saplings waiting fer ya in turn 1 especially in/after a rain!!!!!
    Last edited by Modo; 03.12.14 at 1:21 PM.

  14. #14
    Senior Member SEComposites's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jcorsico View Post
    Mineral spirits? I would have thought these evaporated very quickly, especially while the car is moving.

    How do you clean this stuff up? Does the powder paint stain everything?

    Thanks very much. Interesting stuff.

    Jon
    As mentioned above thats the idea. The paint residue is left behind. Its what I used in F1, Indycars and Sportscars.

  15. #15
    Senior Member suzrm121's Avatar
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    Default Just Lucky

    Luckly enough I work with several PHD aerodynamicsits, they told me they would give me help in areas where i'm lacking

  16. #16
    Senior Member 924RACR's Avatar
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    Default

    A quick update on this, as I did have time to experiment a little over the summer with it.

    My mix was pretty simple; a bit of left-over Redline 30W oil (already blue in color), plus a little paint thinner to make runnier, then add more oil back in cause I overdid it. Then a quick shot of powdered blue chalk from the hardware store (as you buy for plumb lines, $0.99 for a bottle lifetime supply).

    Worked pretty well IMO - crappy phone pics attached showing results, and showing work to be done. Our method of application needs some work too, we were in a rush and had to just use a finger. Also does need to be shaken well, the chalk does settle out between uses, but that's a minor annoyance for $1 in materials invested.

    Also, heard from the pros that they just use india ink in the wind tunnel...
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Vaughan Scott
    #77 ITB/HP Porsche 924
    #25 Hidari Firefly P2
    http://www.vaughanscott.com

  17. #17
    Contributing Member Jnovak's Avatar
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    Default

    Thanks for the great posts.
    Thanks ... Jay Novak
    313-445-4047
    On my 54th year as an SCCA member
    with a special thanks to every SCCA worker (NONE OF US WOULD RACE WITHOUT THE WORKERS)

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