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Thread: Reynard 83 SF

  1. #1
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    Default Reynard 83 SF

    Hello guys,

    Could any of you post pictures of the original oil filter head and its bracket, plumbing, oil cooler...

    There were some parts missing on mine when I got the Reynard and now I'm having issues with oil leaks from every connections on the filter head after some track time probably due to engine vibrations (mine is mounted on the engine). My guess is that it should be mounted on the chassis...

    Also, is the oil cooler a necessity with today's oil?

    Thank you,

    François

  2. #2
    Banned Modo's Avatar
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    I had this remote type https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr....asp?RecID=138 ......attached to a thin aluminum plate and to the engine mount holes on 83 FC Reynard ........ yes chassis mount would be better if possible ...........could probably get help arranging the picture below with short Reynard type filter to the original filter mount ....... would have to tap and mount pressure fitting properly/securely to engine block, talk to builders
    ...
    if you don't have water overheating problems and use a reasonable weight oil, don't need oil cooler, I use 5w-20 synthetic Mobil1 and come off the track with 15lbs pressure with no cooler, would be 5 lbs (so gentle with pedal in paddock) if I didn't raise the idle to 1500 RRrr's............ if u don't have weight problem use a small cooler and nice weight oil if u have a pro built engine for a few extra Horses!!!
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    Last edited by Modo; 09.12.14 at 4:32 PM.

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    Classifieds Super License HayesCages's Avatar
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    Napa 1335 filter
    Lawrence Hayes
    Hayes Cages, LLC
    Sagle, ID.

  4. #4
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    Thank you for the answers.

    The short filter will help alot since I currently have a Ford FL1A so let me tell you it is a tight fit! Someone else also recommended me to change the crush washers on the MOCAL filter head. Mounted on the chassis should be better but since it is working for all of you it should work on mine too.

    I previously mounted the oil pressure sensor directly on the filter head but from what I see, these are always mounted remotely to isolate the sensor from vibrations.

    As for temps, water reach high temperatures (107c) after some fast laps on a hot summer day but I yet have to do basic tests to determine if radiators and engine are properly bled. I've been told to use oil with zinc additives in these engines so I went for Amsoil Z-rod. Is that overkill or what? What oil weight are you using and what oil pressure should it get when hot and revving?

    On a side note, past owners had shortened the tail to accomodate an upgraded dual element wing, installed a longer nose and changed the side panels around engine. Last weekend Phil Strudwick from Ontario posted an ad on the CASC forum with Reynard body panels for sale. I went to buy these to find out that he was the previous owner of my car and these parts were from my Reynard so the tail he had was missing the front section which is on the car... It was funny to say the least and now I have all the parts required to put it back original!

    Francois

  5. #5
    Banned Modo's Avatar
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    Francois ,

    39-40lbs on track pressure (ok for on track sez folks here but coming in is problem) with hot engine 220 and hot oil 250 with 5w-20 synthetic Mobil 1 for me, pushing the envelope there for HP................. a multi gold medal champion on this website swears by 10w-30 synthetic probably Valvoline ............. I think there may be zinc additives available so buying oil with it may not be necessary if you worry about that, others here should enter in on that .......... I assemble the engine with moly lube and that has zinc in it and hangs out in there, so I don't worry, however I'm not running 10 weekends a year plus test days .............. anyone ......

    oh.......may pressure check with air gun and compressor and soapy water brush, the remote, I would assume a Mocal filter head which is popular, even with the lines attached but not on engine, may give you some hints ................ best of luck with one of our favorites .....

    PS I just soapy water chip brush tested my whole engine everything attached, gasket areas, lines, et. al., put constant 2-3lbs into my oil breather line with regulator and swabbed away, ...... amazing results, even tiny bubbles in castings where oil doesn't leak (valve cover casting and stressed member), can see possible future cracking places and of course oil leaks
    Last edited by Modo; 09.13.14 at 10:36 AM.

  6. #6
    Classifieds Super License racerdad2's Avatar
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    I run Red line 40w. Keeps about 60- 80#'s pressure on track. But have yet to run car on truly hot days.
    "An analog man living in a digital world"

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    Thank you for the hints. I have some tests to do now...

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