9/16-36 to 9/16-36 Univeral Joint - Steering

[Christopher Crowe]

Has anyone used one of these universals to replace the heavier-than-heavy stock VD component:

http://www.flamingriver.com/index.ph...5/s0004/FR1761

[S Lathrop]

The best joint for size and durability is an Apex MS2071-B12. If you want over kill then use a MS2071-B14. You can get them from Aircraft Spruce.

I used the MS2071-B10 (5/8 in ID) for decades on over a hundred cars with no problems. But I think that the 3/4" size is a better option.

[John A. Gordon, II]

For those of use who love reading Mil-Spec's I just want to point out the correct part number should start with MS20271. BTY it's up to Rev E if any wants to know . John

[nulrich]

I agree with Steve, it's hard to beat the MS20271 joints for stiffness and durability.

Just a clarification on the sizing: the dash number (B10, B12, etc) refers to the outside diameter of the sleeve, with the ID being an 1/8" smaller. That is, a B10 has a 5/8" OD sleeve but fits over a 1/2" shaft, a B12 has a 3/4" OD sleeve but fits over a 5/8" shaft, etc.

The splined U-joint that Christopher linked to seems like a decent part, and would be very convenient if you were connecting two shafts that already had splined ends. It's not sealed like the Apex joints, though, and looks pretty heavy to me.

Nathan

[john f]

Originally Posted by nulrich

The splined U-joint that Christopher linked to seems like a decent part, and would be very convenient if you were connecting two shafts that already had splined ends. It's not sealed like the Apex joints, though, and looks pretty heavy to me.

Nathan

They in fact have sealed needle bearings on the cross shaft. They are available with many bore combinations and for a race car are most likely over-kill. For street rods and such are very nice units. Just my $0.02.

john f