The battery in my DB-1 is showing 12.3 V at the jump plug. First race will be VIR, so I have some time. Should I replace it?
The battery in my DB-1 is showing 12.3 V at the jump plug. First race will be VIR, so I have some time. Should I replace it?
Jim
Swift DB-1
Talent usually ends up in front, but fun goes from the front of the grid all the way to the back.
It may be fine, but you need to load test it.
Caldwell D9B - Sold
Crossle' 30/32/45 Mongrel - Sold
RF94 Monoshock - here goes nothin'
Now this will fry mine of course..........because we all know the way things really work.
The gel cell in the VD is maybe 5+ years old ??? ...it's on the trickle charger 24/7 garage or track.
At track, first start of the race day uses a jump lead-acid 12V, once the engine's warm, for the rest of the day I start on the gel only - on grid or after impound. On track the dash may read 11.9V for a single moment but the rest of the time at speed things read 12.3 or 12.5 or something pleasant. Race over? .....right back on trickle.............
You can't judge a battery by simply it's voltage reading (unless it reads a single-digit number, then it's likely done).
Really need to put a load tester on it. Or a smart charger that can tell you its health.
Subjectively, does it spin the engine over as enthusiastically as it always has?
Ian Macpherson
Savannah, GA
Race prep, support, and engineering.
how do I load test, and what do I look for?
Jim
Swift DB-1
Talent usually ends up in front, but fun goes from the front of the grid all the way to the back.
There are load testers, that basically put a big resistor across the terminals and measure amps and voltage drop.
Or an easier way is to start the car multiple times and if it starts cranking slowly, time for a new battery.
I don't have a load tester, but I do have a starter button
Jim
Swift DB-1
Talent usually ends up in front, but fun goes from the front of the grid all the way to the back.
Hey Jim
Look for a device called a battery percent of charge meter. I think I got mine at a boat store; you can also probably find them at other stores or online. It puts a resistor across the terminals and tells you the health of the battery. Two batteries with identical voltage can give different percent of charge readings.
Not too expensive, maybe $20 several years ago?
Roughly the size of a small multimeter so it goes to the track even with my rig.
John
Last edited by JHerscher; 04.13.21 at 5:45 PM. Reason: added cost
https://www.amazon.com/Schumacher-BT.../dp/B000AMBOI0
That's what I use.
Dave Weitzenhof
For some more money, I use this
Projecta Battery Carbon Pile Load Tester 12v 500amp - Mr Positive NZ
The smaller one in the post above puts a 100amp load. This one (and similar) have an adjustable carbon pile that you set to match the CCA of your battery (0-500amps load). There are models that put up to 1000amp load.
You load the battery for, say, 15-20 seconds and look at the voltage drop.
The bigger the load, the harder the test.
For me, my load tester has always been 'right' (and given me good advice); its a good thing to own. Buy one.
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