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  1. #1
    Senior Member
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    08.29.15
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    Prescott, AZ
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    Default 81 VD clutch help

    I get a lot of noise when depressing the clutch pedal. Time to pull the clutch and hydraulic throw out.
    A number of disassembly possibilities seem to exist.
    What would be the most efficient for an 81 Van Diemen Kent?
    Thank you for the suggestions.

  2. #2
    Senior Member
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    06.14.02
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    Ft. Myers, Florida
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    Default Release bearing?

    Is the noise a whirring or screeching when the pedal is depressed? It might just be the release bearing needs replacing. That's fairly easy to replace. That stated, you should still service the clutch release hydraulics while you're in there.

    I had an RF82 which I think is identical except for the rear suspension and some bodywork. Mine used the lever arm clutch release mechanism with the external clutch slave cylinder, a pushrod, and the stock clutch. I guess from your description you have some sort of annular hydraulic release bearing?

    If you are looking for a step by step please see the following. If not, sorry for misunderstanding what you need!

    On that car, I always found it just as easy to remove engine & transaxle together because it was easier to get the input shaft stabbed back into the clutch drive splines. However, I did remove just the transaxle once or twice.

    As I recall, you need to:
    1-remove the starter
    2-loosen the headers and remove the exhaust pipe collector back.
    3-bleed all the fluid out of the rear brakes and clutch, disconnect the rear brake and clutch hydraulic lines either at the transaxle union or terminus. This is why Brad at Primus and others sell those whizzy quick release hydraulic line things!
    4-unhook the rain light at the transaxle (you do have a disconnect there, don't you?)
    5-Unhook the jumper battery if necessary (again a disconnect at the transaxle is a good idea if your jumper is at the back of the car.)
    6-undo the lower engine/transaxle braces that trail from the lower chassis to the front of the transaxle carrier plate
    7-undo the big bolts holding the upper chassis rails to the transaxle
    8-undo the 6 bolts that hold the engine to the transaxle, and wiggle it off

    Naturally the chassis and engine will need to be supported with 2x4s or something and probably you'll need a hoist of some sort to take the weight of the transaxle. Leave the suspension and wheels on the transaxle.

    Since I'm not familiar with your release bearing, I can't comment, but you should be able to get it out through a combination of patience and finger tricks.

    If its the stock bearing, you replace it by removing the clips that hold it to the release lever, and wiggling it off the sockets it rests in. Then stick a new one in its place! It should spin easily with no noise and should have no gritty feeling when you try to spin it.

    I did once have a bushing fall out of the clutch bobbin which is the fabricated spacer looking thingy that goes between the clutch fingers and the release bearing - that may also be an issue. That bushing should be able to be replaced with a new one. Clean it and I believe there is a Loctite product that is for that type of application.

    If you decide to pull the engine as well, you will need to also
    1-drain the oil and water
    2-unhook the oil line to the tank and from the oil filter
    3-remove the water lines at the water pump and the thermostat housing (swirl pot)
    4-unhook the throttle cable at the carb and undo the fuel line at the fuel pump
    5-undo the 1/2" nut behind the big front engine spider mounting bracket.
    6-unhook any wires to the distributor
    7-if a mechanical tach is fitted, undo that on the right side of the engine
    8-look for anything else hooked up!!

    I always supported the chassis under the fuel tank and the front of the engine with, as I recall a combination of 1x4s and 2x4s. Roll the chassis forward rather than the transaxle back. This way you don't need to get the lift out.

    You should be able to get an alignment tool at your local parts house if you don't have one already. 20lb-ft torque the clutch bolts. (I think)

    I think that's it.

    Assembly is the reverse of disassembly! 2-4 hours start to finish, allow a full day if its your first time.

    If I've gotten anything wrong, I have a built in excuse, it has been over 20 years since I've done that service on that car....

    John

  3. #3
    Senior Member
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    Default

    Thank you John. Pretty much what I had in mind.

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