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  1. #1
    Senior Member t walgamuth's Avatar
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    Default 98 VD clutch slave?

    Is it annular or external? Anybody have a picture of one handy? I seem to be losing fluid and cannot find any wetness anywhere. Making me wish for a throttle cable.

    I am still looking for a 931 ring and pinion for the LD200 tranaxle.

  2. #2
    Senior Member t walgamuth's Avatar
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    I looked again today and found what appears to be the clutch line going into the top of the case near the flywheel. So I suspect that means it is an annular cylinder.

    Ouch!

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by t walgamuth View Post
    I looked again today and found what appears to be the clutch line going into the top of the case near the flywheel. So I suspect that means it is an annular cylinder.

    Ouch!
    It most definitely IS an annular cylinder.

  4. #4
    Senior Member t walgamuth's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by alangbaker View Post
    It most definitely IS an annular cylinder.
    My fluid is getting low but I am not finding anyplace where it is coming out on the ground....?

  5. #5
    Senior Member t walgamuth's Avatar
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    So does the engine and transaxle have to be pulled back to change it?

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by t walgamuth View Post
    So does the engine and transaxle have to be pulled back to change it?
    I would have thought you should be able to pull the gearbox only, leaving the motor in place.

    I have had internal (infernal?) slave cylinders in various cars for a good number of years now. I have three rules of thumb re these things:

    1. Always carry a spare set of the CORRECT O rings in my spares

    2. Always replace them anytime i have a gearbox out of the car. What do they cost, like $30 bucks or something? But hours of work when they fail, and always at the worst time.....

    3. Be SUPER careful when re assembling them, so as to not nick a new O ring

    Enjoy!

    BT

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    Default

    It is vital you get the correct O rings. Most O rings do not last with brake fluid. Some of these slaves are imperial and some are metric (sometimes just a couple of thou in size between them; easy to get the wrong ones).

    And yes, once you find the correct ones, buy at least 3 sets (one for now, one for an emergency trackside and a spare). You will never find the right ones on race day at a local shop.

    The O rings MUST be replaced every season. No discussion. One of my friends (and ex F1 mechanic) says twice a season. The O rings are being used in ways the good Lord never intended.

    And yes, the box slides straight off the back of the engine. If you don't have quick release (sealed dry break) brake and clutch line fittings, now is a good time to fit them (and get the fittings designed for brake fluid).

  8. #8
    Senior Member t walgamuth's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mark elder View Post
    It is vital you get the correct O rings. Most O rings do not last with brake fluid. Some of these slaves are imperial and some are metric (sometimes just a couple of thou in size between them; easy to get the wrong ones).

    And yes, once you find the correct ones, buy at least 3 sets (one for now, one for an emergency trackside and a spare). You will never find the right ones on race day at a local shop.

    The O rings MUST be replaced every season. No discussion. One of my friends (and ex F1 mechanic) says twice a season. The O rings are being used in ways the good Lord never intended.

    And yes, the box slides straight off the back of the engine. If you don't have quick release (sealed dry break) brake and clutch line fittings, now is a good time to fit them (and get the fittings designed for brake fluid).
    Thanks for the excellent comments. I did not mean to say pull the engine just to separate engine and transaxle.

  9. #9
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    Default VD O rings

    Quote Originally Posted by t walgamuth View Post
    Thanks for the excellent comments. I did not mean to say pull the engine just to separate engine and transaxle.
    As stated some VD's had 3 mm O ring grooves not .125. Not much but enough to mess you up if you had one. Easy to measure the .005 difference. A ****** when it was Miller Time.

    KR

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    Quote Originally Posted by Robins Ken View Post
    As stated some VD's had 3 mm O ring grooves not .125. Not much but enough to mess you up if you had one. Easy to measure the .005 difference. A ****** when it was Miller Time.

    KR
    Also a good idea to bleed the clutch after every weekend especially in hot weather. Keeps the amount of ground up rubber from the O-rings to a minimum in the system.

  11. #11
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    Default Fwiw

    obviously everyone is likely to have an opinion. so I will merely state my experience.

    The first time I changed clutch slave cylinder o rings it was on my 94 VD. I used brake fluid as the lubricant and while very careful with assembly, nicked an o ring and was presented the opportunity to FedEx the parts and redo the job when I discovered the failure shortly before an event. I’ve forgotten who it was at Taylor that advised I use rubber grease when assembling but I did and have never had a failure shortly after assembly since. I’ve used the red rubber grease you get in various Girling kits and the grease in a tube with equal success.

    I now have an RF01 and have not changed my point of view.

    as noted when I began this post, I’m sure there are other opinions.

    John

  12. #12
    Senior Member t walgamuth's Avatar
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    Default

    Thanks for all the thoughtful comments.

  13. #13
    Senior Member t walgamuth's Avatar
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    Default

    Is that just a stock Fit clutch disc? I wanna replace that too while in there.

  14. #14
    Contributing Member cjsmith's Avatar
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    Default Clutch disk

    From what I recall seeing in the GCR contact Quick Silver, see link below, or use stock clutch disk. Not sure if there is a difference between the 2 options.

    Honda PN: 22300-RB0-005; Quicksilver PN: QSHDR-411.

    https://www.quicksilverraceengines.com/

  15. #15
    Senior Member t walgamuth's Avatar
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    Thanks CJ!

    Tom

  16. #16
    Senior Member t walgamuth's Avatar
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    We just installed new 20s on my front wheels having done the rears a couple of weeks ago. We are having the devil of a time bleeding them. Do the bottom bleeders need bled too?

  17. #17
    Contributing Member CGOffroad's Avatar
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    Are you sure the air is not trapped at the master cylinder? Do you have brake pressure sensors? If so, did you bleed air from this correctly? When bleeding calipers, I tap them lightly with a dead blow. This is coated with heavy rubber so it doesn't mar the caliper. If there is a bubble sticking to something in caliper, tapping it may prompt it to come loose.

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  19. #18
    Senior Member t walgamuth's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CGOffroad View Post
    Are you sure the air is not trapped at the master cylinder? Do you have brake pressure sensors? If so, did you bleed air from this correctly? When bleeding calipers, I tap them lightly with a dead blow. This is coated with heavy rubber so it doesn't mar the caliper. If there is a bubble sticking to something in caliper, tapping it may prompt it to come loose.
    No to all that. Thanks! that list will give a map to follow.

  20. #19
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    Default O rings

    any one know a source to get the O-rings?

  21. #20
    Senior Member chrisw52's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rspink2012 View Post
    any one know a source to get the O-rings?
    pegasus

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