Rod Ends - the Choices!

[ChrisInAtlanta]

On my list of winter projects is to dis-assemble my car and replace many of the little bits. I had a new front suspension installed, all tie rods, two years ago. At the time, the fabricator told me that he used very inexpensive rod ends, "because this sport doesn't need them, and you replace the important ones before the national championships." Sadly, I did not get him to tell me the important ones. None of the rod ends are marked as to manufacturer or model.

I should mention that I am an autocrosser only, so the failure of a rod end creates almost no risk to others, or to me. Even if a steering link fails, worst case scenario isn't so bad. And the thought of failing a rod end to save the frame doesn't make too much sense to me in my case.

SO during the rebuild I plan to replace all 36 rod ends. Research only opens more questions. I have no way of determining maximum load, as that usually occurs when I hit a pothole. . . < g > NO FEA analysis software. Only one end has failed, where the threads meet the head, as I was lifting the car to paint something.

Obviously, there are better quality rod ends, which I intend to buy (manufacturers).

Aluminum saves me a bit over 2 pounds (half in nice places), and looks keen, but I do not intend to replace them every year, the risk of dramatic failure seems to get higher at each cycle, and championships being at the end of the year. If the rod ends now on the car are low-end, high end aluminum ones would be almost as strong. All steel tie rods, thin wall high strength tubes.

Teflon. . .at first sounded the way to go. But I read one manufaturer's page saying that the sphere does not rotate as easily, since the teflon creates pressure, though reduces friction (?). Then discovered that there are several ways to implant teflon, some better than others. I am leaning towards Teflon on ends that see lots of motion, non-teflon elsewhere.

The rich person's way to go would be chrom-molly ends (or even titanium!), teflon coated, from a good manufacturer. Actually, a rich guy could run aluminum and replace them often. A poor man would simply test the existing ends for play when they are off the car, and replace those with el cheapos. I find myself in between.

Oh, and they now sell half-width lock nuts. Since I check EVERY nut and bolt between events, event being 4-8 runs of less than 60 seconds. . . In fact, they also sell aluminum lock nuts. In fact, they also sell half thickness AL lock nuts. Hmmm. . .

And one company sells drilled chromolly end bolts and washers that they claim are as light as titanium but stonger. I haven't checked the prices yet, need to drag the computer over to the couch so when I pass out I won't have as far to fall. < g >

Any suggestions? Thanks!

[Stacy Hughes]

Their are a lot of companies out their that sell rod ends, but you can be sure that the difference between a good one and a bad one is huge. If you take a company like Aurora, they produce rod ends on the cheap side to the relatively good side. On the other hand you have companies like NHBB that produce only the top end. It all depends on budget, and how often you intend on changing them. NHBB are all stainless/teflon lined, and would require attention less frequently than a aluminum,steel or moly end. We sell primarily to Indy Car, Champ Car and USAC. So we sell virtually all NHBB and an occasional Aurora. However NHBB will be Twice to three times more expensive than a steel Aurora. On the flip side of this, you can buy a aluminum end that is a forged piece that cost more than an NHBB, but will not last as long. Just choose to buy the best that your budget will allow. Also keep in mind that suspension settings can be off from flexure among other things involved in using a cheaper end.

[JHaydon]

Good advice. Here's a tip I learned the hard way in my early days: Don't bother with "no-name" rod ends, even if they're called "aircraft quality," because they aren't. Stick with a name brand -- they will publish their specifications, so at least you'll know your starting point.

Aurora, NHBB, and NMB are all names I've seen sold by reputable places (who have I left out?)

Rod ends don't just fail by breaking (though if you've had one fail by breaking, DON'T replace it with the same type! You're either overloading it or you have something binding and causing an improper stress on it. Correct the problem! ) Most of the time, rod ends wear out and get sloppy. You don't have to take the car apart to feel it. Just try shaking the wheels and you'll feel it. Sloppy rod ends will make the best car feel awful, but tight rod ends can make a dismal car feel much better. Sloppy rod ends can also negate all of your carefully dialed-in setup, which is absolutely critical in Solo II.

To test your rod ends for slop, first grab the top of a tire, then push and pull it back and forth. Then put your hands at 6 o'clock and 9 o'clock on the tire and shake it back and forth. If you hear or feel clunking, the rod ends are on their way out. If you can actually see movement relative to the rod end body, replace it.